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Kind of a weird question but a family member decided to die and now I'm stuck with a car that I don't want but another family member could really use but they are 1200 miles away. Work scheduling won't allow me to drive it out and fly back sort of thing so does anyone know about or could recommend car transport services? Quick Googling suggests it's probably be cheaper than the self-drive/fly back solution by a significant amount. Anyone have company recommendations or other general advice?
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Jun 26, 2021 07:12
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Fabulousity posted:Kind of a weird question but a family member decided to die and now I'm stuck with a car that I don't want but another family member could really use but they are 1200 miles away. Work scheduling won't allow me to drive it out and fly back sort of thing so does anyone know about or could recommend car transport services? Quick Googling suggests it's probably be cheaper than the self-drive/fly back solution by a significant amount. Anyone have company recommendations or other general advice? We just had a similar set of questions in the chat thread though there was no death involved. Sorry  Brenden Kurtyka - Transport Broker <brenden@automovenow.com> - 941-914-7373 Tell him Kelly and Devin from Limerence Motors sent you and he should be happy to help. He's a very good transport broker which is quite rare, and can also do anything in the USA. Maybe even North America, haven't had to do anything to Canada or Mexico before. He will get you set up. Note that we do not get any kickbacks or anything, we just really like his service and trust him. Note too that he isn't the transport company itself, he's a broker and will shop, schedule and handle any issues that arise on your behalf.
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Jun 26, 2021 07:26
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PainterofCrap posted:318 or 360? I can look for the filler tube around here (Phila) 318. a more capable junkyarder than I could probably find one; I struck out locally + on the websites I know (most of which don't even list the part)
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Jun 26, 2021 08:27
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Javid posted:318. a more capable junkyarder than I could probably find one; I struck out locally + on the websites I know (most of which don't even list the part) Have you checked Row52.com for a self service yard near you with similar vehicles?
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Jun 26, 2021 08:40
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Tomarse posted:Please post more pictures and info on your car! Let's see, I'm really lazy taking pictures. Strangers have probably more pictures from my car than I do. Once some man drove past me while wife filmed the car whole time.  One of the sellers picture, it had the Sonett alloys under it then. The auxiliary lights are originals from the 70s.  The day I bought it. It was in the northern part of Finland so there was some snow still on the ground. Got there by train and drove it back, took 8 hours of driving.  After I got some welding done and new tires on the steelies.  At my dad's place where I keep my Manta waiting for better days.  First head gasket change. Shredded one exhaust manifold stud and later bursted one of the hoses so it has been sitting in garage since. I'm little better shape now and have some extra money so bought finally set of silicone hoses and took of the heads to fix the shredded stud.  I think this is only picture of the back. Back when I sold those oils until health got worse. And what to tell about the car. It was at Kemi airport orginaly, want to say they sell it at 1986, then it was used by moose hunters. It has special permission to have amber warning light for some reason and license to haul 2 stretchers or coffins. Previous owner had it quite awhile, had race tuned 1.7ltr that was build for folkrace car for awhile. Now it's pretty standard 1.5ltr, ignition has been upgraded to electric. Kids love it, too bad it has only 2 seats so they fight who gets ride it. Well everyone loves it, is sorta cult classic cause they're stupid tv series where the one of the cast members was pretty much the car.  Want to put back the amber warning light and the CB radio back to it, but I don't know if I can handle endless poo poo about Team Ahma. There's always some old geezer next to the car when I come back from the store taking about some nonsense about how they had 95 in army or in work. It's a geezer magnet. Edit: oh yeah, I also have 99n. Not turbo thought, GL 5 speed   Yeah... The 9-3 next to it is also mine. I.. have a problem.  Run into this looking for 99n picture from my imgur. It's the 95s brake. Still have that nail, gonna make it keychain for 95. Captain Kosmos fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 13:13
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Captain Kosmos posted:I thought so. Thanks So awesome. You will become a billionaire if you export these to the states.
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Jun 27, 2021 07:12
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Mr. Wiggles posted:So awesome. You will become a billionaire if you export these to the states. I could check what it would take to ship cars to US for shits and giggles. Knowing Finland the bureaucracy will be hell and I would be taxed to death, but that's the cost of living in our glorious socialistic utopia  Paperwork was big reason I got tired with running my own company. Don't know if the cars are what you would want, they are mostly post 1970 that's when they started build Saabs in Finland and they are really basic. Almost all 99n are with 1 carb B/H engines and I have never seen one with AC, even the OG 900 with AC is rarity. Atlest they will be FDM as gently caress
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Jun 27, 2021 08:52
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When you top off the gas tank after the nozzle stops, you're just filling up the EVAP system with gas, right?
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Jun 27, 2021 23:13
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I don't know how it works but it dumps it all onto the ground when the next person goes to fill up, so please don't.
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Jun 27, 2021 23:15
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DildenAnders posted:When you top off the gas tank after the nozzle stops, you're just filling up the EVAP system with gas, right? Yup.
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Jun 28, 2021 04:08
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Depends on the make model and year. Subarus, yeah, unless the system is just hosed up, then it'll shut off every 0.02 gallons until you go insane. Jeeps, I've had some where it would shut off starting a gallon or two up from empty if I didn't have the pump handle turned at just the right angle, so I'd futz with the angle for the first few gallons until it would keep going by itself then wait till the second click near 15-20 gallons (from close to empty) to tell me to stop. Other makes? Who knows. It's SUPPOSED to work right, but theory and practice aren't the same in reality.
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Jun 28, 2021 05:37
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2020 Hyundai Ioniq number 2 cylinder misfire. I did a run from San Diego to Reno yesterday at completely full payload - 3 full size adult passengers, trunk full of heavy rear end suitcases. I cruised at 80 the whole time, AC blasting because it was 110 degrees the whole time. Engine always stayed cool, hybrid system working great, and absolutely no issues (haven't had an issue with the car since we bought it last year, btw, and it's just approaching 10k miles). All the way through see serious mountain passes on 395, again no issues. I stopped in Topaz for a quick break, left the car on, then took off again after 5 minutes or so. At this point the check engine light starts to come on when the gas engine is running, but turns off when ev mode is working. Over the next 20 miles I start to see some performance degradation and a slight shuddering under low gas engine rpms. I pull in to an O'Reilly in Gardnerville and pull a code for P0302. I can't find any loose plugs or wires, intake seems fine. Not a lot to be done at that time on Sunday evening, so I decide to try for Reno. Car back on, no problems. No problems all the way to Reno, or driving around Reno later that night without payload. I'm stumped as to what might have caused the condition, but I'd like to think of something before I do Reno to Vegas next week. Thoughts?
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Jun 28, 2021 14:28
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Perhaps a coil pack starting to go bad. I'd bet the farm if you took it to the dealer that's the first thing they'd replace. You could swap #2 with another and if the problem returns with a different cylinder you have your culprit.
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Jun 28, 2021 14:52
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C-Bangin' it 
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I need to take insulation blanket off the hood, so I can finish replacing the Windsheild washer nozzles. One of the nozzles failed so I am replacing all of them. The Saab has a metal bucket/strike plate on the hood near the firewall for the hood-open-switch, I think it’s riveted on… is it? This just seems stupid because the rest of the blanket is held on with plastic push pins!   Will I have to drill this out to remove it?
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Jun 28, 2021 22:23
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It would appear to be your only option. You could always replace it with a sheetmetal screw. Use proper eyepro & a good bit, it'll drill out in a few seconds.
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Jun 29, 2021 01:23
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My neighbor has a 2014 Q7 TDI with about 90k miles. At what point do these things become maintenance $$$ nightmares? Do they become nightmares? I'm assuming yes, but maybe not? p.s. no I'm not thinking of buying it
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Jun 29, 2021 05:54
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ryanrs posted:My neighbor has a 2014 Q7 TDI with about 90k miles. At what point do these things become maintenance $$$ nightmares? Right at around 90k miles. '13 A4. Needed one fuel injector, one motor mount, control arm bushings, and a high pressure fuel pump replacement among other things. Multiple thousands at the dealer. Oh and both sets of front wheel bearings.
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Jun 29, 2021 06:01
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The Q7 is leftover from a divorce and she's not really in love with it. She is worried about maintenance costs, esp large surprise repairs. I think her current plan is to pay it off in the next two years or so, then keep driving it maybe? I'm not really sure. But she's also had an offer from a dealer for $17k. She's not upside-down. I guess the usual thing is to trade it in? She asked for advice but I don't really know because I always drive my cars until they die.
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Jun 29, 2021 07:44
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Inner Light posted:Right at around 90k miles. '13 A4. Needed one fuel injector, one motor mount, control arm bushings, and a high pressure fuel pump replacement among other things. Multiple thousands at the dealer. I don’t really think you can extrapolate that precisely from a totally different car with almost no shared parts produced at a different plant. ryanrs posted:The Q7 is leftover from a divorce and she's not really in love with it. She is worried about maintenance costs, esp large surprise repairs. Hey large unplanned costs are an Audi speciality! She should sell it, it will get expensive. Now is the best time to sell a used car.
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Jun 29, 2021 12:30
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I don’t really think you can extrapolate that precisely from a totally different car with almost no shared parts produced at a different plant. Esp not with a B8 A4. I feel like half of those grenaded themselves multiple times starting at like 50k miles and half of them are hitting 200k relatively episode-free without doing the whole “RIP Blueberry, thought of high miles and poo poo out her transmission” schtick
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Jun 29, 2021 12:37
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From personal experience, any VW with a DSG will either get very expensive to maintian or very broken and slippy.
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Jun 29, 2021 13:15
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Hi thread I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata v6 on my hands that I need to get running that is not starting as of this morning. Car started and drove just last week. Recently changed the battery and timing belt service was done on the car. When turning the key the car cranks and the accessories power on but the car doesn't start. Took the battery to get tested at Advance Auto Parts and it came back good which is expected since it's only a few months old. So we get power and car cranks but doesn't start. Is the alternator or starter shot? I'm guessing it is the original so that makes sense for needing to be changed. Have not yet had a chance to take a multimeter to it and start pulling fuses to test that out but I'm not sure if it's necessary. This car has historically had some electrical gremlins so there is probably something leeching power or something as well but not sure if that is the problem. net work error fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 18:18
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If the battery is good and the starter is turning the motor over at a normal speed neither of those are the problem and your alternator is irrelevant to starting the car (and probably fine). This is probably something like a fuel pump. Do you have any tools or knowledge of working on cars? Start with the fuse for the fuel pump, work your way through. Make sure there is actually fuel in it too. If the fuses are good you're on to testing if there is pressure at the fuel rail, which it's doubtful you have the tools for.
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Jun 29, 2021 18:32
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I've got most hand tools and can do some simple maintenance but I'm no serious wrench. I'll take a peek at the fuel pump fuse later and report back. Fingers crossed I just need to replace a fuse and be a hero for a couple bucks.
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Jun 29, 2021 18:37
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Checked the fuel pump fuse (#1 in the fusebox conveniently) and it looked fine. Unfortunately the starter is at the bottom of the car behind a heat shield so I definitely won't be able to give it some taps to test it until the weekend or something.
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Jun 29, 2021 19:12
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net work error posted:Unfortunately the starter is at the bottom of the car behind a heat shield so I definitely won't be able to give it some taps to test it until the weekend or something. ...you mean the fuel pump? (stop chasing starter problems if the engine is cranking)
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Jun 29, 2021 19:16
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I don't quite get the logic of checking the battery, starter and alternator if the engine is cranking. Check for spark and fuel.
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Jun 29, 2021 19:19
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Looking at some documentation I know that the fuel filter and pump were changed a few years ago since they fail often on these cars. I'm going to take a look at the three easier to reach spark plugs up front and see if they need changing but will need to get a 5/8's socket though to pull it out to inspect. Changing the rear three plugs would require removing the intake manifold and some other cables which looks kind of intimidating for a novice mechanic. Would changing three out of six be enough to get the engine started to take it to a mechanic to finish the job?
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Jun 29, 2021 20:05
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net work error posted:Looking at some documentation I know that the fuel filter and pump were changed a few years ago since they fail often on these cars. I'm going to take a look at the three easier to reach spark plugs up front and see if they need changing but will need to get a 5/8's socket though to pull it out to inspect. What you need to check is if you're getting a spark. There's no need to replace the plugs at this time. Pull one plug, ground the center terminal, and crank the engine. If there's a spark, then you don't have an ignition problem. You need a diagnosis before you start shooting the parts cannon. Figure out what's wrong before you waste a lot of time and money replacing parts that are actually fine.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:08
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net work error posted:Looking at some documentation I know that the fuel filter and pump were changed a few years ago since they fail often on these cars. I'm going to take a look at the three easier to reach spark plugs up front and see if they need changing but will need to get a 5/8's socket though to pull it out to inspect. You are not listening, and pretty soon the smart posters will quit helping. In the first sentence you said the fuel pump was recently replaced and fails often. So it may have failed again. If you are not going to methodically diagnose the problem, have it towed to a shop.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:13
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net work error posted:Looking at some documentation I know that the fuel filter and pump were changed a few years ago since they fail often on these cars. I'm going to take a look at the three easier to reach spark plugs up front and see if they need changing but will need to get a 5/8's socket though to pull it out to inspect. Yeah don't bother blindly replacing spark plugs, you didn't have all 6 magically die. But for the socket you want to get the spark plug socket with the rubber insert thingy. Not sure if anything bad happens if you don't use it, but it'll be hard to get a plug out.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:19
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StormDrain posted:You are not listening, and pretty soon the smart posters will quit helping. The problem previously with the fuel system was that the filter broke so the evap wasn't working so when you would pump gas it would only add a little then stop because the gas vapor was not getting released correctly or something along those lines. Last time we topped it up it was fine so the part that failed last time is probably still ok. Deteriorata posted:What you need to check is if you're getting a spark. There's no need to replace the plugs at this time. Pull one plug, ground the center terminal, and crank the engine. If there's a spark, then you don't have an ignition problem. I can give this a try but need a little more explanation. Is this where you would pull the wire and put a screw driver or something metal in there and then crank to check for electricity to it? Sorry I'm eager to throw parts at the problem but it's a family members car and I'm trying to help them out quickly.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:37
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StormDrain posted:You are not listening, and pretty soon the smart posters will quit helping. 
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Jun 29, 2021 20:37
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net work error posted:The problem previously with the fuel system was that the filter broke so the evap wasn't working so when you would pump gas it would only add a little then stop because the gas vapor was not getting released correctly or something along those lines. Last time we topped it up it was fine so the part that failed last time is probably still ok. I think the fastest and cheapest way you're going to get this car fixed is have it towed to a garage and have them deal with it. Automotive repair skills are best learned when you've got time to figure out what you're doing and make lots of mistakes.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:39
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Deteriorata posted:I think the fastest and cheapest way you're going to get this car fixed is have it towed to a garage and have them deal with it. You're right but I still did some learning for next time though. Thanks again for dealing with my barrage of questions everyone.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:50
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My project car has incredibly expensive glass and it has hailed a couple times the past week. No damage yet but given the butt-pucker that happens every time I hear it start hailing I'm wondering if there's some version of a car cover I could get that has padding to absorb impacts on the glass? I've got a normal car cover but it's just cloth, I don't think it would provide any protection against hail big enough to crack a windshield. I'm hoping to get a tarp garage set up as well, I just have a lot of stuff on my to-do list at home right now.
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Jun 29, 2021 22:02
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https://hailprotector.com/ Will a tarp garage stop larger sized hail?
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Jun 29, 2021 22:04
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I honestly don't know, my friend just got his set up earlier this year. I'm also not sure how big the hail is we tend to get up here, I just moved here in the Spring. I would guess given how thick the tarp he has is that it would handle a lot, especially with the right level of tension on the tarp. I feel like there's probably a sweet spot where it has enough give to spread the energy transfer of the hail through the tarp over a longer period of time but still shed the hail rather than just getting weighed down.
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Jun 29, 2021 22:10
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Pile some Harbor freight moving blankets on the car and put a tarp on it. You're around Longmont right? It can get brutal around here. I've not had Guinness world record size hail, but it hits hard as hell. Check out the damage from the 2017 storm in the west Denver metro area. Absolute carnage, anything outside of a garage was ruined. That kind of storm comes around every 4-5 years it seems.
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Jun 29, 2021 22:57
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I was in Longmont from 2018-2020, I'm up in the high country now. I remember the first week I was in Longmont there was a massive hailstorm that passed maybe 10-15 miles south of us, my uncle in Lafayette/Louisville (I forget which) had three cars get smashed up. Thankfully one of them was insured so he bought it back as salvage and used the rest of the payout to fix the other two cars. This summer is apparently unusual and might be related to how dry of a winter it was, we've been getting massive downpours every day for a week + now.
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Jun 29, 2021 23:17
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