Mechanical Keyboards- Justify this please?????

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > Mechanical Keyboards- Justify this please?????

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redeyes: Sep 14, 2002; by Fluffdaddy

LochNessMonster posted:

Look at it as an opportunity to get some new caps! Normally you need to justify getting another set, now you have a perfectly valid reason.

For sure! Now I want to go lighter than Cherry Profile. XDA or DSA. So far I haven't found anything decent.

# ? Jun 27, 2021 14:53

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# ? May 30, 2024 14:24

HappyCapybaraFamily: Sep 16, 2009; Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

redeyes posted:

For sure! Now I want to go lighter than Cherry Profile. XDA or DSA. So far I haven't found anything decent.

How about the classic DSA Granite?

Or go all out and try to find someone selling their DSA Galaxy Class set

# ? Jun 27, 2021 18:14

Scythe: Jan 26, 2004

I just got a Leopold FC660C, primarily so I could get Topre Silent switches, and I absolutely love the feel but find the 65% layout a little annoying. After getting used to my previous 60% board (KBP V60), having to move away from the home row to get to the arrow keys is irritating.

I think the only modification I really need is to make the bottom left key an additional Fn key (I've already swapped CapsLock and L Ctrl via DIPs so that key right now is a useless CapsLock) and making it so Fn+WASD is a set of arrow keys.

Questions:

Is the best way to do this to get an aftermarket controller, and if so is the Hasu still recommended, and if so, where should I buy it?
Is there any good way to get a new "Fn" 1.25u keycap in blue PBT matching my keycaps? Alternatively, are there any good sources for two matching 1.25u PBT keycaps to replace both Fn keys, either with "Fn" or an icon or blank?
Should I just be returning this and getting an HHKB instead if I want Topre Silents on a 60% board, even though it's all-plastic and theoretically feels worse than the FC660C (I haven't touched one yet personally)?

Thanks! I can feel myself slipping deeper into this hobby...

# ? Jun 27, 2021 18:40

Klyith: Aug 3, 2007; GBS Pledge Week

Scythe posted:

I think the only modification I really need is to make the bottom left key an additional Fn key (I've already swapped CapsLock and L Ctrl via DIPs so that key right now is a useless CapsLock) and making it so Fn+WASD is a set of arrow keys.

Is the best way to do this to get an aftermarket controller

The best way to do this is with autohotkey. Every person doing poo poo with custom controllers / firmware / QMK who hasn't looked at autohotkey instead is firmly into the "hobbyist brainworms" zone. Macros and keybinding stuff is what it was made for.

code:

CapsLock & w::Up
CapsLock & s::Down
CapsLock & a::Left
CapsLock & d::Right
CapsLock:: Send {CapsLock}

(Last line is optional if you don't ever want to turn on capslock, or could be for example $^CapsLock:: Send {CapsLock} if you wanted to activate capslock with Ctrl+Capslock.)

# ? Jun 27, 2021 19:24

Scythe: Jan 26, 2004

Ooh, that�s a good option� but I should�ve mentioned that this board is connected to a KVM that switches between macOS and Windows machines. (I swap Win/Cmd and Alt/Opt in the OS on the Mac side and just deal with the key cap labels being �wrong�� though it would be cool to get customs that were correct for both usages.) Is there a similar solution for macOS or does trying to set that up on both sides mean that the hardware approach is a good idea?

# ? Jun 27, 2021 20:10

Klyith: Aug 3, 2007; GBS Pledge Week

Scythe posted:

Ooh, that�s a good option� but I should�ve mentioned that this board is connected to a KVM that switches between macOS and Windows machines. (I swap Win/Cmd and Alt/Opt in the OS on the Mac side and just deal with the key cap labels being �wrong�� though it would be cool to get customs that were correct for both usages.) Is there a similar solution for macOS or does trying to set that up on both sides mean that the hardware approach is a good idea?

Using it on multiple machines & OSes, that's where it would be worth doing firmware remapping if your board already supported QMK.

I don't know Apple software, but quickly googling suggests the program Karabiner as something that can do sophisticated macros and keybinds similar to autohotkey.

# ? Jun 27, 2021 20:37

redeyes: Sep 14, 2002; by Fluffdaddy

HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

How about the classic DSA Granite?

Or go all out and try to find someone selling their DSA Galaxy Class set

Heeeey. Thats a really nice set. Thank you sir!!
[edit] drat! No numpad keys?

redeyes fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jun 28, 2021

# ? Jun 28, 2021 15:40

Deviant: Sep 26, 2003; i've forgotten all of your names.

Klyith posted:

The best way to do this is with autohotkey. Every person doing poo poo with custom controllers / firmware / QMK who hasn't looked at autohotkey instead is firmly into the "hobbyist brainworms" zone. Macros and keybinding stuff is what it was made for.
code:
CapsLock & w::Up
CapsLock & s::Down
CapsLock & a::Left
CapsLock & d::Right
CapsLock:: Send {CapsLock}
(Last line is optional if you don't ever want to turn on capslock, or could be for example $^CapsLock:: Send {CapsLock} if you wanted to activate capslock with Ctrl+Capslock.)

some game anti-cheat software will poo poo the bed if you have AHK running, fyi.

i can't use it with black desert for example.

# ? Jun 28, 2021 18:05

epic Kingdom Hearts LP: Feb 17, 2006; What a shame

Picked up the Miya Pro Flare Star the other day and I'm in love. Definitely the best quality board I've ever had. I got it with EC Sakura v2 switches. It's perfect.

https://imgur.com/a/UaeQdw0

# ? Jun 29, 2021 00:25

HappyCapybaraFamily: Sep 16, 2009; Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

redeyes posted:

Heeeey. Thats a really nice set. Thank you sir!!
[edit] drat! No numpad keys?

It totally comes with a numpad kit, though it's been thoroughly themed so it's not just numbers. It even comes with extra caps for the four keys you have above the numpad on your Akko.

Of course, the trick is actually finding a full set for sale in the first place ...

# ? Jun 29, 2021 00:27

Gearman: Dec 6, 2011

epic Kingdom Hearts LP posted:

Picked up the Miya Pro Flare Star the other day and I'm in love. Definitely the best quality board I've ever had. I got it with EC Sakura v2 switches. It's perfect.

https://imgur.com/a/UaeQdw0

That is one rad-as-hell looking board!

# ? Jun 29, 2021 00:57

Klyith: Aug 3, 2007; GBS Pledge Week

Deviant posted:

some game anti-cheat software will poo poo the bed if you have AHK running, fyi.

i can't use it with black desert for example.

lol that someone still tries to do anti-cheat this way in 2021

it's pretty easy to duck poo poo like that by changing the program so that the signature doesn't match, autohotkey is opensource so this is totally doable

but I find it much easier to just avoid bad games

# ? Jun 29, 2021 03:42

Framboise: Sep 21, 2014; To make yourself feel better, you make it so you'll never give in to your forevers and live for always.; Lipstick Apathy

my nanners arrived over the weekend when I was out of town. Now I just need the Mode65 I ordered....

# ? Jun 29, 2021 05:18

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

Consider me a newbie and outsider to this keyboard business, despite being a computer toucher for decades. I've been getting by on a basic Logitech K270 wireless keyboard-and-mouse combo that I'm basically happy with for both home and work. My work laptop's keyboard sucks so I like to have a full-size for the 99% of the time it spends just sitting on my desk; the K270 worked out so well I bought a second one for my home desktop. I've noticed some odd lag when I play games like Skyrim at home, I can run around shooting arrows at bandits for a few minutes but eventually I won't be able to move for a few seconds. It feels like the continuous, long-press inputs overwhelm the keyboard and it just stops responding for maybe 2 seconds while it clears the backlog. I've played around with the game graphics settings to see if the problem is the processor / graphics card running out of steam but even with things turned down quite a bit I get this problem.
The wireless unit doesn't work very well at home either, putting the USB dongle into a spot on the back of the tower, under my desk and surrounded by cables seems to make it even less responsive compared to one of the spots on the front.

So, I'm looking for a wired keyboard that maybe won't get overwhelmed when I run like an idiot in a straight line for minutes. A quick look on Amazon Australia shows me basic keyboards and then a big jump in price to gaming keyboards. The K270 was like $20, would a $100 gaming keyboard be reliable at not getting overwhelmed from a game? Is there a go-to regular suggestion for somebody like me that just wants the keyboard to get out of the way when I'm using it? Thanks.

# ? Jun 29, 2021 05:39

mewse: May 2, 2006

ExecuDork posted:

So, I'm looking for a wired keyboard that maybe won't get overwhelmed when I run like an idiot in a straight line for minutes.

Any wired gaming keyboard with n-key rollover is almost guaranteed not to lose inputs like you're describing. The usual budget options I suggest are a tecware phantom or a redragon board (both from amazon) but I can't really see a way to see whats in stock on Amazon Australia.

# ? Jun 29, 2021 06:44

HappyCapybaraFamily: Sep 16, 2009; Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

ExecuDork posted:

So, I'm looking for a wired keyboard that maybe won't get overwhelmed when I run like an idiot in a straight line for minutes. A quick look on Amazon Australia shows me basic keyboards and then a big jump in price to gaming keyboards. The K270 was like $20, would a $100 gaming keyboard be reliable at not getting overwhelmed from a game? Is there a go-to regular suggestion for somebody like me that just wants the keyboard to get out of the way when I'm using it? Thanks.

You don't need to spend $100 on a gaming keyboard that should just work for games like Skyrim. The Redragon K551 should do what you need. If you don't care for the egregiously gamer-y font on the keycaps (a very legitimate concern imo), there's also the K556 for a little more. Looking at the feature set, I can't really tell why the K556 costs more. Both should work fine for your needs.

Do note that the K551 comes with linear switches, and the K556 comes with tactile switches. What this means is that, for the K551, as you press down on a key, you will not feel any change in the keypress until the key bottoms out. On the K556, you may feel a slight bump right around where the key actuates (i.e., when the input is sent to your computer). I say may because it's going to be pretty subtle on this keyboard, but it'll likely be noticeably different than the linear switch on the K551.

Linear switches are often traditionally preferred for gaming, though I don't know if there's a real concrete reason why. In practice, it doesn't really matter what switch you game with as long as you like it and are comfortable with it.

edit: super beaten, and I totally overlooked the Australia part :doh:

edit²: This Redragon K582 looks to be really similar to the K551 above.

HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jun 29, 2021

# ? Jun 29, 2021 06:51

Klyith: Aug 3, 2007; GBS Pledge Week

HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

Linear switches are often traditionally preferred for gaming, though I don't know if there's a real concrete reason why. In practice, it doesn't really matter what switch you game with as long as you like it and are comfortable with it.

The linear = gaming thing has two reasons:

1. Some types of clicky switches are legit bad for gaming. If you've never tried to play a game with cherry blues, it's hard to describe how much it sucks. The reset point is at a different place than the activation point, so the most common fuckup is you want to quickly release and press a key but don't get all the way to the reset point. Even in games that don't really require fine control, in normal non-competitive single player, it's bad.

I think some types of alps clicky switches don't have this problem, but back in the day those were mostly found on vintage keyboards which have frequently have rollover problems. And the explosion of new switch types recently has produced stuff that I think might be ok for gaming, like the kailh clickbar thing. Not sure though, never tried them.

2. Linear switches are ever so slightly faster producing input than tactile switches, because you don't have to press through the tactile bump. You can also hover the key around the activation point to make really fast on/offs.

This one is really minor compared to the first one. Tactile switches like browns are fine, for anyone that cares about typing as much as they do gaming. And there are also some "tactile gaming" switches that have the bump & activation higher in the switch.

(Secret reason 3: When the mechanical keyboard explosion happened, red & black linear switches were cherry's cheapest product, and browns were fairly limited.)

# ? Jun 29, 2021 14:52

rarbatrol: Apr 17, 2011; Hurt//maim//kill.

I've only ever gamed with tactile switches and it's been fine, even with these stiff box hako switches.

# ? Jun 29, 2021 15:37

PRADA SLUT: Mar 14, 2006; Inexperienced,
heartless,
but even so

What profile do the key caps in the Varmilo VA87M have? I�m trying to get some new key caps that feel the same.

# ? Jun 29, 2021 16:12

Stroop There It Is: Mar 11, 2012

PRADA SLUT posted:

What profile do the key caps in the Varmilo VA87M have? I�m trying to get some new key caps that feel the same.

I thought it was Cherry profile but I guess there are some differences and it's called SS2?

# ? Jun 29, 2021 16:56

HappyCapybaraFamily: Sep 16, 2009; Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

Klyith posted:

The linear = gaming thing has two reasons:

1. Some types of clicky switches are legit bad for gaming. If you've never tried to play a game with cherry blues, it's hard to describe how much it sucks. The reset point is at a different place than the activation point, so the most common fuckup is you want to quickly release and press a key but don't get all the way to the reset point. Even in games that don't really require fine control, in normal non-competitive single player, it's bad.

I think some types of alps clicky switches don't have this problem, but back in the day those were mostly found on vintage keyboards which have frequently have rollover problems. And the explosion of new switch types recently has produced stuff that I think might be ok for gaming, like the kailh clickbar thing. Not sure though, never tried them.

2. Linear switches are ever so slightly faster producing input than tactile switches, because you don't have to press through the tactile bump. You can also hover the key around the activation point to make really fast on/offs.

This one is really minor compared to the first one. Tactile switches like browns are fine, for anyone that cares about typing as much as they do gaming. And there are also some "tactile gaming" switches that have the bump & activation higher in the switch.

(Secret reason 3: When the mechanical keyboard explosion happened, red & black linear switches were cherry's cheapest product, and browns were fairly limited.)

Ah, that makes sense. I don't think I'd ever read a clear explanation like this before. Thanks

# ? Jun 29, 2021 17:00

.Z.: Jan 12, 2008

ExecuDork posted:

Consider me a newbie and outsider to this keyboard business, despite being a computer toucher for decades. I've been getting by on a basic Logitech K270 wireless keyboard-and-mouse combo that I'm basically happy with for both home and work. My work laptop's keyboard sucks so I like to have a full-size for the 99% of the time it spends just sitting on my desk; the K270 worked out so well I bought a second one for my home desktop. I've noticed some odd lag when I play games like Skyrim at home, I can run around shooting arrows at bandits for a few minutes but eventually I won't be able to move for a few seconds. It feels like the continuous, long-press inputs overwhelm the keyboard and it just stops responding for maybe 2 seconds while it clears the backlog. I've played around with the game graphics settings to see if the problem is the processor / graphics card running out of steam but even with things turned down quite a bit I get this problem.
The wireless unit doesn't work very well at home either, putting the USB dongle into a spot on the back of the tower, under my desk and surrounded by cables seems to make it even less responsive compared to one of the spots on the front.

So, I'm looking for a wired keyboard that maybe won't get overwhelmed when I run like an idiot in a straight line for minutes. A quick look on Amazon Australia shows me basic keyboards and then a big jump in price to gaming keyboards. The K270 was like $20, would a $100 gaming keyboard be reliable at not getting overwhelmed from a game? Is there a go-to regular suggestion for somebody like me that just wants the keyboard to get out of the way when I'm using it? Thanks.

I went poking through Amazon.com.au, and these seemed like your best bet for keyboards that stayed under $100. Anything cheaper and I can't find any details about anti-ghosting/key rollover. Unfortunately it's going to be all unknown Chinese companies. Any recognizable brand is $100+.

65% Size: https://www.amazon.com.au/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Replaceable-Switches/dp/B07JJXJRLT
TKL: https://www.amazon.com.au/Mechanical-Multicolor-Water-Resistant-Tenkeyless-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B07PQZQZY2
Full Size: https://www.amazon.com.au/Z-88-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B07J5YDYVF

# ? Jun 29, 2021 19:14

Constellation I: Apr 3, 2005; I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

rarbatrol posted:

I've only ever gamed with tactile switches and it's been fine, even with these stiff box hako switches.

Yeah, anything's fine with gaming as long as you're used to it.

I mean, obviously the convenience of faster actuation and less effort to press a button is nice. But hardly any games nowadays require that much APM where the repeated keypresses add up (not like Starcraft type high APM games is the norm these days) Fighting games sure, but I have a stick for that.

The most I've done when I use heavier switches is replacing my left shift switch with a lighter switch for slide cancelling in Warzone but that was just to give my pinkie a break (hate auto tac sprint)

# ? Jun 29, 2021 22:13

redeyes: Sep 14, 2002; by Fluffdaddy

Got some Box Pinks. They are about as close as I've gotten to a Model M buckling spring type of feel. They go well with my OSA style huge caps. Akko Macaw saved. Though, I put in almost 9 hours in this thing and it sucked.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 00:08

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

Thanks very much for the links and the very clear explanations! I'll poke around Amazon Aus and pick something obnoxiously colourful, it will go well with the $20 bar speaker I bought a few months ago that sits under my monitor and cycles through silly bright colours. Also, though it's hidden in a compartment in my desk, there are lights inside my tower that similarly broadcast rainbow neons. I'm very happy to see prices well under $100, too.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 03:31

~Coxy: Dec 9, 2003; R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

I have a K95 with Reds and I find the linear switches are too light when gaming.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 04:12

mariooncrack: Dec 27, 2008

redeyes posted:

Got some Box Pinks. They are about as close as I've gotten to a Model M buckling spring type of feel. They go well with my OSA style huge caps. Akko Macaw saved. Though, I put in almost 9 hours in this thing and it sucked.

I just put these in my TKL. I like them a lot. They feel like quieter box jades.

I got my GMMK Pro. I'm not sure what they did with the stabilizers but the keys keep sticking. I was going to put in switches and keycaps to give it a try before modding it but I don't think I have a choice.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 04:28

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I got my 6 key macro keypad kit from huhu's kickstarter. Looks great, I'll put it together soon!

This is the best knolling I can do with this much caffeine right now. There's even coffee stains on my cutting mat, woops.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 08:03

hbag: Feb 13, 2021

got the refund
also managed to somehow finesse them into refunding the reservation fee too
nice

now once the money's back in my account i'll buy the loving iso board this time lmao

should i buy lubed glorious pandas with it too or should i just use my gateron blacks for now until i save up a little more

# ? Jun 30, 2021 15:32

redeyes: Sep 14, 2002; by Fluffdaddy

mariooncrack posted:

I just put these in my TKL. I like them a lot. They feel like quieter box jades.

I got my GMMK Pro. I'm not sure what they did with the stabilizers but the keys keep sticking. I was going to put in switches and keycaps to give it a try before modding it but I don't think I have a choice.

For me the drat caps make my Durok stabs bind. I had to try all kinds of remounting to get them to where I like. Blame caps.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 15:38

CBD Corndog: Jun 21, 2009

I found it was the pads on the PCB under the stabs that was getting sticky from their over-lubing and causing keys to stick. Cleaned off a bunch of excess lube and everything returns like it should.

hbag posted:

got the refund
also managed to somehow finesse them into refunding the reservation fee too
nice

now once the money's back in my account i'll buy the loving iso board this time lmao

should i buy lubed glorious pandas with it too or should i just use my gateron blacks for now until i save up a little more

I'm using factory lubed glorious pandas and have no complaints. Smoother than the unlubed version for sure (and no spring ping), they don't have the same over-lubing problem like with their stabs.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 17:42

runaway dog: Dec 11, 2005; I rarely go into the field, motherfucker.

Funny how a few days after cancelling my gmmk pro reserve, and then getting an email saying my number had come up, I get an email saying you can buy them on the 6th without a reserve. it also says its $169 but shows a fully built keyboard, doesn't mention anything about barebones kit in the email, I'm sure it's still a barebones kit though.

runaway dog fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jun 30, 2021

# ? Jun 30, 2021 17:44

Nuramor: Dec 13, 2012; Most Amewsing Prinny Ever!

I'm looking for a new keyboard and I hope you can help me find something. From what I have seen my requirements never fully match up in a keyboard, but maybe you have a good idea.

- German (QWERTZ) layout
- full size
- n-key rollover
- wired
- preferably tactile and quiet switches
- the shift function of the key should be above the primary function damnit, not below or to the side :argh:

- Optimally the writing on the keys should still be recognizable after half a year or so.

Most of the time the keyboards I find thatt fulfil the first five points fail at the last two. Do you have any tips?

# ? Jun 30, 2021 18:13

mewse: May 2, 2006

Nuramor posted:

I'm looking for a new keyboard and I hope you can help me find something. From what I have seen my requirements never fully match up in a keyboard, but maybe you have a good idea.

- German (QWERTZ) layout
- full size
- n-key rollover
- wired
- preferably tactile and quiet switches
- the shift function of the key should be above the primary function damnit, not below or to the side

- Optimally the writing on the keys should still be recognizable after half a year or so.

Most of the time the keyboards I find thatt fulfil the first five points fail at the last two. Do you have any tips?

Key legends wearing off is usually because they are pad printed. Dye sublimated, laser etched, or double shot legends are much more durable. Unfortunately if the listing for the keyboard doesn't mention how the legends are put on the keycaps there's a good chance they're pad printed, but if they're backlit it's kind of a crapshoot because they could be laser etched ABS (lovely, they laser etch the legend on to a black coating that can wear out and go fully transparent) or double shot (basically impossible to wear off)

I found these links which might help

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/germany_shopping_guide

https://www.keyboardco.com/category.asp?sr=&path=Mechanical+Keyboards&stk=&lan=German&ss=de&rtv=100

# ? Jun 30, 2021 18:31

Klyith: Aug 3, 2007; GBS Pledge Week

Nuramor posted:

- the shift function of the key should be above the primary function damnit, not below or to the side

- Optimally the writing on the keys should still be recognizable after half a year or so.

Most of the time the keyboards I find thatt fulfil the first five points fail at the last two. Do you have any tips?

Putting the alt character on the bottom right is generally the standard, corrent? In that case you're probably SOL for finding a mechanical board with the labels you want.

The processes to make high-quality keycaps are doubleshot and dye sub, both are not easy to get custom stuff with. Doubleshots mean that any customization requires a new mold die, which is expensive. People get them done from companies like signature plastics which C&C custom dies, but it pretty much requires a group buy to amortize the costs. The other method is dye sublimation which I think is easier to do custom stuff, but not a lot of companies do it.

So your options for reasonable prices are to get a custom print lasered set from wasd. And you'll need to make your own design. But if you have any artistic skill, you can do cool stuff.

Lasered labels like WASD does aren't the most durable, but they're better than plain printing like you get on a $10 keyboard. They'll easily stay legible for years -- they just won't look as crisp, and will have visibly uneven wear.

# ? Jun 30, 2021 19:11

Nuramor: Dec 13, 2012; Most Amewsing Prinny Ever!

Klyith posted:

Putting the alt character on the bottom right is generally the standard, corrent? In that case you're probably SOL for finding a mechanical board with the labels you want.

The processes to make high-quality keycaps are doubleshot and dye sub, both are not easy to get custom stuff with. Doubleshots mean that any customization requires a new mold die, which is expensive. People get them done from companies like signature plastics which C&C custom dies, but it pretty much requires a group buy to amortize the costs. The other method is dye sublimation which I think is easier to do custom stuff, but not a lot of companies do it.

So your options for reasonable prices are to get a custom print lasered set from wasd. And you'll need to make your own design. But if you have any artistic skill, you can do cool stuff.

Lasered labels like WASD does aren't the most durable, but they're better than plain printing like you get on a $10 keyboard. They'll easily stay legible for years -- they just won't look as crisp, and will have visibly uneven wear.

I mean, I would just like it how I'm used to it, and not how for example Corsair is designing theirs.

instead of

# ? Jun 30, 2021 21:10

Buck Turgidson: Feb 6, 2011; 𓀬𓀠𓀟𓀡𓀢𓀣𓀤𓀥𓀞𓀬

ExecuDork posted:

Consider me a newbie and outsider to this keyboard business, despite being a computer toucher for decades. I've been getting by on a basic Logitech K270 wireless keyboard-and-mouse combo that I'm basically happy with for both home and work. My work laptop's keyboard sucks so I like to have a full-size for the 99% of the time it spends just sitting on my desk; the K270 worked out so well I bought a second one for my home desktop. I've noticed some odd lag when I play games like Skyrim at home, I can run around shooting arrows at bandits for a few minutes but eventually I won't be able to move for a few seconds. It feels like the continuous, long-press inputs overwhelm the keyboard and it just stops responding for maybe 2 seconds while it clears the backlog. I've played around with the game graphics settings to see if the problem is the processor / graphics card running out of steam but even with things turned down quite a bit I get this problem.
The wireless unit doesn't work very well at home either, putting the USB dongle into a spot on the back of the tower, under my desk and surrounded by cables seems to make it even less responsive compared to one of the spots on the front.

This sounds like interference. USB can interfere with 2.4Ghz signals used by wireless peripherals. Have you tried plugging the usb dongle into a usb extension cable (preferably extended away from your computer)?

# ? Jul 1, 2021 02:57

Ringo Star Get: Sep 18, 2006; JUST FUCKING TAKE OFF ALREADY, SHIT

Went ahead and got a set of Akko CS Blues, which is a tactile switch, not to be confused with blue = clicky.

Overall, pretty happy with them. Much more pronounced tactile bump than both a Gateron and Cherry Brown. Uses a progressive spring that is 55g and you can definitely feel the heft in it. If you type slow and methodical, you get a pretty good thocc sound out of it, faster typing and it's bit more "chirpy". I haven't tried lubing them yet but I tested out one and I think that's the ticket. Not a lot of scratchiness but I don't hear any ping from the springs at least. I'm enjoying it on my Keychron C1, which I specifically got for the hot-swappable option to test out new switches.

I might dip into their Matcha Greens, but they also just released some others on their site. The cost is insanely cheap, 10 bucks for 45 switches - so great if you're into making budget boards or whatever.

# ? Jul 1, 2021 04:19

mewse: May 2, 2006

Ringo Star Get posted:

Went ahead and got a set of Akko CS Blues, which is a tactile switch, not to be confused with blue = clicky.

Overall, pretty happy with them. Much more pronounced tactile bump than both a Gateron and Cherry Brown. Uses a progressive spring that is 55g and you can definitely feel the heft in it. If you type slow and methodical, you get a pretty good thocc sound out of it, faster typing and it's bit more "chirpy". I haven't tried lubing them yet but I tested out one and I think that's the ticket. Not a lot of scratchiness but I don't hear any ping from the springs at least. I'm enjoying it on my Keychron C1, which I specifically got for the hot-swappable option to test out new switches.

I might dip into their Matcha Greens, but they also just released some others on their site. The cost is insanely cheap, 10 bucks for 45 switches - so great if you're into making budget boards or whatever.

Interesting. Housing looks like kailh switches, wonder who the mfr really is

# ? Jul 1, 2021 04:27

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# ? May 30, 2024 14:24

interrodactyl: Nov 8, 2011; you have no dignity

I built a very pretty commission over the weekend.

Very badly color corrected sound test, for the folks who care about that kind of thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3b4qnL2Sp0

# ? Jul 1, 2021 04:37

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > Mechanical Keyboards- Justify this please?????

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