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DesperateDan posted:Okay so I have been learning and fighting me some coolant hoses off the coolant pipe and I have all of em but one beat, a rounded out hex surrendered easily with an impact and a shimmy of electrical tape and I was thinking I would be done today  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5JM0O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jul 1, 2021 18:02
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Motronic posted:
I can get pliers to the clamp lever arm things well enough to squeeze them right in till they hit each other, it's not big enough- unless this somehow makes them go further?
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Jul 1, 2021 18:06
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DesperateDan posted:I can get pliers to the clamp lever arm things well enough to squeeze them right in till they hit each other, it's not big enough- unless this somehow makes them go further? Can you squeeze the clamp AND have access to get a pick, small flat head, etc to slip inside the hose to break it free and then, with the hose clamp all the way open still be able to push the hose off? Because that's what I use those for on hoses that are two swollen to move the clamp. In a lot of cases without those you're fighting around whatever you're holding the clamp open with to do those other things.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:09
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net work error posted:Hello thread I am back for more punishment. Sure sounds suspect to me. I would crack the fuel line at the rail and cycle the key and see if you get any fuel flow there. e: I'd also get your battery on a tender because all this cranking is going to have left it pretty low (you already mentioned reading 11.5v) so it may not have enough juice to start it once you get it fixed up.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:12
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net work error posted:I gave the intake a little squirt of starting fluid and it did turn on before dying a second or two after. Replacing an in-tank fuel pump is a massive pain in the rear end, especially for a home mechanic. If it was my car, I'd take it to a shop rather than attempting it myself. (It's also the sort of job that can result in your shop/house burning to the ground.) Here's a youtube video that should hopefully scare you away: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMk5l3ukvN8
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Jul 1, 2021 18:21
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Ehh if there's an access hatch (so you don't have to drop the tank) it's not a horrible job.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:22
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Motronic posted:Can you squeeze the clamp AND have access to get a pick, small flat head, etc to slip inside the hose to break it free and then, with the hose clamp all the way open still be able to push the hose off? Because that's what I use those for on hoses that are two swollen to move the clamp. In a lot of cases without those you're fighting around whatever you're holding the clamp open with to do those other things. I can get the clamp seemingly as far open as it goes, hands free with some vice grips but couldn't manage to wiggle in something between the pipe and the hose deep enough to get around the end of the pipe given the constriction of the clamp at the top- there's a lot of pipe inside the hose- I guess I will try and hunt out some better shims and give it another go in the morning, thanks
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Jul 1, 2021 18:24
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opengl128 posted:Ehh if there's an access hatch (so you don't have to drop the tank) it's not a horrible job. OK, well that is less sketch than siphoning gas and dropping the tank in your driveway.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:24
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ryanrs posted:Replacing an in-tank fuel pump is a massive pain in the rear end, especially for a home mechanic. If it was my car, I'd take it to a shop rather than attempting it myself. (It's also the sort of job that can result in your shop/house burning to the ground.) Weird that there isn't an access panel on the 626, there was on the 323 / Protege and it was very easy to do. Anyway if you can access it from under the seat cushion it's not that hard. Or you can cut a hole there 💩
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Jul 1, 2021 18:25
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Hi! I have a 2015 Scion TC and recently I've noticed that it seems like the AC is on all the time. Was hard to tell in the winter, but now I'll get in and have the windows down on an 80 degree day and the air coming out of the vents is super chilled. I'm glad the AC seems to work but I generally don't use it and I can't seem to turn it off. Anyone hear ever of something similar? Note: The AC on/off light does work, it just doesn't seem to make any difference.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:26
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DesperateDan posted:I can get the clamp seemingly as far open as it goes, hands free with some vice grips but couldn't manage to wiggle in something between the pipe and the hose deep enough to get around the end of the pipe given the constriction of the clamp at the top- there's a lot of pipe inside the hose- I guess I will try and hunt out some better shims and give it another go in the morning, thanks Can you nip the spring clamp with cutters? I know my knipex cobolt would do it, but normal cutters might not like the spring steel.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:27
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Your AC compressor clutch may be seized closed. Can you see the compressor easily from under the hood? Check if it's spinning all the time regardless of the AC button's position. Also note that in almost all modern cars selecting defrost will turn on the AC regardless of the AC button position.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:29
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opengl128 posted:Sure sounds suspect to me. I would crack the fuel line at the rail and cycle the key and see if you get any fuel flow there. I'll give that a try as well. I do plan on taking the battery to get charged up again tomorrow since it's been getting abused a bit with these tests. opengl128 posted:Ehh if there's an access hatch (so you don't have to drop the tank) it's not a horrible job. Luckily this car lets you access the pump right from a hole in the trunk under the liner so definitely not as bad as one where you would have to drop the tank. Taking a peek at it, the worst part is going to be dealing with some of the rust on the screws so I will have to apply some PB Blaster more than likely.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:33
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Motronic posted:Your AC compressor clutch may be seized closed. No idea! But I have something to check out so I'll do a little digging and report back. Thanks.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:35
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pro starcraft loser posted:No idea! But I have something to check out so I'll do a little digging and report back. Yeah what position is the vent switch in? Not just defrost but some cars turn on the a/c starting in the foot vent only position. I don't know why.
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Jul 1, 2021 18:38
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net work error posted:I'll give that a try as well. I do plan on taking the battery to get charged up again tomorrow since it's been getting abused a bit with these tests. I found a stream-of-consciousness article that contains a litany of things you might check. https://itstillruns.com/how-to-check-for-fuel-delivery-in-a-hyundai-sonata-12142364.html
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Jul 1, 2021 18:53
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Safety Dance posted:I found a stream-of-consciousness article that contains a litany of things you might check. https://itstillruns.com/how-to-check-for-fuel-delivery-in-a-hyundai-sonata-12142364.html Nice, thanks! I had found this article which was helping me out as well: https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Hyundai-Sonata-fuel-pump.html
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Jul 1, 2021 19:00
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Charles posted:I've had speed bleeders work fine for me but the person asking is replacing a whole bunch of components, so I think getting a proper pressure bleeder is the best choice. Also see if there's any special procedure for an ABS car, my mechanic had difficulty with that on my Mazda (despite my suggestion of that likely being an issue). Depending what model it is, you might be able to use FORscan to trigger an ABS pump bleed cycle. The mobile version ($6 for Android) works fine with most generic OBD2 adapters, and can trigger the ABS pump. Pressure bleeder is always the best choice, but sometimes even those can't get the air out without cycling the pump.
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Jul 1, 2021 19:00
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One of my favorite features ever on a car was on my ~'06 Scion xB - there was some method to trigger that bleed cycle without tools. It was insanely nice to replace all the brake hardware, then get in the car and [I don't remember what the method was, probably key on / key off or something], step on the brake pedal, and feel them bleed themselves. All cars should have that. (Sounds like more do, but that was my first experience with it.) edit: Hilariously, googling now yields absolutely no evidence the above is true, but it absolutely did happen. I remember the intense sensation of relief quite clearly because I always hated bleeding brakes. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Jul 1, 2021 |
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Jul 1, 2021 19:30
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Krakkles posted:One of my favorite features ever on a car was on my ~'06 Scion xB - there was some method to trigger that bleed cycle without tools. It was insanely nice to replace all the brake hardware, then get in the car and [I don't remember what the method was, probably key on / key off or something], step on the brake pedal, and feel them bleed themselves. All cars should have that. (Sounds like more do, but that was my first experience with it.) You seem to be confusing an ABS bleed cycle with bleeding brakes. There is no way to get air out of lines/calipers without opening the bleeders.
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Jul 1, 2021 19:40
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Motronic posted:You seem to be confusing an ABS bleed cycle with bleeding brakes. There is no way to get air out of lines/calipers without opening the bleeders.
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Jul 1, 2021 19:45
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2000 Sienna is too low-tech to need computer help bleeding the ABS. Repair manual just has you bleed the calipers (though if you let the master cylinder suck air, you have to bleed that separately). Everything I'm touching is downstream of the ABS module anyway. But speaking of computer wizardry, the van has an intermittent ABS fault. Possibly it's just getting confused when I drive on dirt, but I suspect it's more serious than that (light has been coming on more and more often). What's the best tool to pull fault codes from a 2000 Toyota Sienna? Needs to play well with iphone/mac, and it would be cool if it worked with the iphone only, and without a cell signal. I've been in situations where it would have been nice to pull codes while out in the wilderness.
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Jul 1, 2021 20:10
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ryanrs posted:2000 Sienna is too low-tech to need computer help bleeding the ABS. Repair manual just has you bleed the calipers (though if you let the master cylinder suck air, you have to bleed that separately). Everything I'm touching is downstream of the ABS module anyway. There's an updated version of the Veepeak dongle which uses BT instead of Wifi on iOS, but I haven't seen the need to upgrade.
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Jul 1, 2021 20:15
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My dad drove like 30 miles yesterday and I noticed when he got back this bracket has basically rusted itself 99% off. I don't know much about his jeep so is this safe to drive to a mechanic without this thing? I'm sure they'll be looking to replace a lot of the rusty parts here.
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Jul 1, 2021 20:54
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Rexxed posted:2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My dad drove like 30 miles yesterday and I noticed when he got back this bracket has basically rusted itself 99% off. I don't know much about his jeep so is this safe to drive to a mechanic without this thing? I'm sure they'll be looking to replace a lot of the rusty parts here. That's a trailing arm mount and no, I wouldn't drive that. I doubt it will ever be driven again to be honest. This is not an opinion from someone who isn't used to rust. I live in the northeast. That just looks like it's too far gone to be economically viable to repair.
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Jul 1, 2021 20:57
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Motronic posted:That just looks like it's too far gone to be economically viable to repair. Unless you're Ken and are willing to weld one together from a pile of scrap parts that just happen to be exactly the right shape and size.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:01
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It looks like the piece hanging down is in front of the axle, just a chunk of the fuel tank skidplate, but yeah, the what i believe is a rear frame stiffener bracket is completely gone and has been for some time by the look of it. Get under there and poke around the frame rails. I'm guessing you can probably put a finger through them at this point, at which point the vehicle is probably scrap.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:06
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I'll poke around at it, I know that it's pretty rusty but didn't think it was in that bad shape until it started coming apart. I probably live within 100 miles of you motronic (I'm just over the delaware in NJ) so I'm sure you're spot on.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:12
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That's pretty sad for an '08 to be so far gone. Looks like Jeep had particularly bad rustproofing in that era. I have a German car from a few years later in the rust belt, parked outside a lot of the time, and it's nowhere near as bad.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:28
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Turns out Hyundai discontinued the fuel pump and housing parts for this make Sonata.  I could maybe replace just the pump in the housing but I figure if the thing is out it's best to change it all. Is there a trusted brand for a universal option? I'm guessing it would be to stick with something like Bosch or similar and avoid Autocraft?
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Jul 1, 2021 21:32
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net work error posted:Turns out Hyundai discontinued the fuel pump and housing parts for this make Sonata.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:37
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Inner Light posted:That's pretty sad for an '08 to be so far gone. Looks like Jeep had particularly bad rustproofing in that era. I have a German car from a few years later in the rust belt, parked outside a lot of the time, and it's nowhere near as bad. Yeah it's pretty crazy. He's not the first owner but I think he got it in 2013 and it's been in the garage 99% of the time. He doesn't drive it regularly since he's in his 80s.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:39
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Rexxed posted:Yeah it's pretty crazy. He's not the first owner but I think he got it in 2013 and it's been in the garage 99% of the time. He doesn't drive it regularly since he's in his 80s. Aww, that sucks. But honestly, driving it in the salt and then parking it in a garage is like....probably worse than driving it regularly so the bottom gets cleaner-ish. I mean, unless you're hosing the bottom off after driving (I'm very tempted to get drive-over ground sprays).
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Jul 1, 2021 21:43
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Why are windows so loving expensive. Me being an idiot, wanting to save money, and being clueless as to how much it would cost to replace a window, raised my comprehensive deductible a month ago. Cue me getting a big loving crack in my front window. I've been quoted anywhere from $900 to $1300 to fix it. A loving window. What the hell. It's not in my line of sight so I'm probably gonna leave it there because I can't afford that right now. /rant. Serious question. It looks like ~1/2 the cost of the window is recalibration. I have a 2020 Forester with all the stupid poo poo they put in cars these days. I only use it because I have it, I'm very happy living without it (unless it means no cruise control). Can I just pay for the new window and skip the recalibration nonsense?
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Jul 1, 2021 21:54
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:You might be able to get it from Rock Auto. They are known to buy lots of discontinued parts, close outs and whatnot. I checked Rock Auto earlier and they didn't have it either.  I did find a replacement that fits by a brand called Auto7 which is a Korean company so that seems like a good move.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:56
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yoohoo posted:Why are windows so loving expensive. Me being an idiot, wanting to save money, and being clueless as to how much it would cost to replace a window, raised my comprehensive deductible a month ago. Cue me getting a big loving crack in my front window. I've been quoted anywhere from $900 to $1300 to fix it. A loving window. What the hell. It's not in my line of sight so I'm probably gonna leave it there because I can't afford that right now. /rant. it'll throw an error all the time so just go ahead and get it calibrated do you not have a separate glass deductible? in my experience most policies do
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Jul 1, 2021 21:57
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net work error posted:I checked Rock Auto earlier and they didn't have it either. If you do decide to do this, replace the tank gasket.
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Jul 1, 2021 22:00
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C-Bangin' it 
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:it'll throw an error all the time so just go ahead and get it calibrated Unfortunately my policy does not. I just got off the phone with Geico and it falls under comprehensive.
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Jul 1, 2021 22:06
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yoohoo posted:Unfortunately my policy does not. I just got off the phone with Geico and it falls under comprehensive. Did you tell the companies you called that you're not claiming this under insurance? The prices usually decrease dramatically.
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Jul 1, 2021 22:10
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Motronic posted:Did you tell the companies you called that you're not claiming this under insurance? The prices usually decrease dramatically. I did not but that's good to know. Is there anything I should look for/avoid? Or can I assume all glass repair folks will be about the same? edit: thanks in advance. I've never dealt with this before.
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Jul 1, 2021 22:13
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