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Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Bloody Hedgehog posted:

You can also get CA accelerators, which dramatically speed up drying time. Put CA on one part, and a tiny bit of accelerator on the part to be mated, and then when you touch them together they bond almost instantly. The most common one you'll likely see in hobby shops is Insta-Set, by Bob Smith Industries. It comes in a spritz bottle, though you can get it in an aerosol as well.

Zip Kicker is another popular brand.

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mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Midjack posted:

Zip Kicker is another popular brand.

I saw an interesting technique involving CA accelerant on YouTube recently. The modeler was finishing a 1/700 scale ship and working on stringing the radio aerials. He put a dab of accelerant on a mast, and a drop of CA glue on the wire he was using. Stretch the wire out to where it's going to be attached, and the CA and the accelerant bonded instantly. I haven't tried it yet, but I intend to.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yASYXStDPb8&t=1518s

That's a terrific build of what could be considered a boring model.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
That technique definitely works. However, you have to be pretty speedy about it. Most of the time, I find that the accelerator evaporates almost instantly.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

got everything mostly edged in with mud. i think the tank sits a little nicer now. gotta adjust the glob on Mr. Volksturm's arm a bit. Also got some water effects going. no bubbles so far!

punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jun 29, 2021

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Tank big

but also tank done









Full album: https://imgur.com/gallery/dzIsieB

Great times, including breaking off the front left skirt plate at least three times and slipping weights into the spent brass tray with surgical precision after it turned out that the gun was terribly out of balance. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

I sent your gallery link to a couple model building friends and the responses were "holy poo poo" and "that's gorgeous."

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Ensign Expendable posted:

Tank big

but also tank done









Full album: https://imgur.com/gallery/dzIsieB

Great times, including breaking off the front left skirt plate at least three times and slipping weights into the spent brass tray with surgical precision after it turned out that the gun was terribly out of balance. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Wow, that's fantastic. May I ask what the story is with the missing sprocket?


I learnt a very valuable if extremely infuriating lesson today. Despite being similar water-based acrylics, Hobby Color is somewhat more volatile than Tamiya and will totally eat straight through it if you try to paint HC over T. :negative:

I think I might just switch over to Tamiya though. Hobby Color has a better range of colors but it's so temperamental with thinning, while I'm pretty sure you could mix Tamiya with swamp water and get a smooth coat.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

RillAkBea posted:

Wow, that's fantastic. May I ask what the story is with the missing sprocket?


In real life it's a practice called short tracking. If your final drive is jammed you have to bypass it to tow the tank away since it won't move otherwise.

I decided to make it like this since I really liked the detail inside the final drive and didn't want it covered up by the sprocket assembly.

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

punishedkissinger posted:

got everything mostly edged in with mud. i think the tank sits a little nicer now. gotta adjust the glob on Mr. Volksturm's arm a bit. Also got some water effects going. no bubbles so far!



Nooo, zee third reich vill last ein thousand jare!

Haha, T-34 go brrrrrrr...

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
The MassiveKampfWagen looks great, Ensign. The shirt track is a nice touch and a clever way to display some otherwise hidden detail.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

What does everyone use for bushes?

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

punishedkissinger posted:

What does everyone use for bushes?

My Tamiya brushes are by far my favorite. I highly recommend.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

punishedkissinger posted:

What does everyone use for bushes?

Bushes or brushes?

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

punishedkissinger posted:

What does everyone use for bushes?

We have some nice camellias out front. Might want to check your local ag extension or gardening club for what works best where you are.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
My mind read that as brushes. Well I hope that's what you meant and I answered your question 😊

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
It's the rare thread where both brushes and bushes are valid.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Schadenboner posted:

Nooo, zee third reich vill last ein thousand jare!

Haha, T-34 go brrrrrrr...

Nein, NEIN! I'm pretty zure zis is against ze Geneva ConvenGLUB GLUB GLUB GLUB. *sounds of drinking tasty, tasty mud*

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Ensign Expendable posted:

In real life it's a practice called short tracking. If your final drive is jammed you have to bypass it to tow the tank away since it won't move otherwise.

I decided to make it like this since I really liked the detail inside the final drive and didn't want it covered up by the sprocket assembly.

Oh cool! I've never heard of it before but that makes sense, yeah!

Leave
Feb 7, 2012

Taking the term "Koopaling" to a whole new level since 2016.
I'm not a model building kind of guy, but I've got a question about where to get the good stuff. My dad's birthday is coming up this month and the man loves building models. Usually WW2 airplanes, tanks, but I've seen him build Gundam models (my brother moved out, Dad found them and put them together), and he always puts a ton of care into them.

He loves the MCU movies, too, and I thought I'd get him this for his birthday, but I don't know if that's a good site to buy from or not. I don't know much of anything about this kind of stuff, but I want to get my dad a really good, really solid model for his birthday. Is that a good choice? If not, could someone help me find a good choice?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Monsters in Motion is a good site, they've been around for years. Can't go wrong with them. The kit maker does sell direct though, for slightly cheaper, so that might save you a few bucks. Shipping costs might be the decider between the two.

https://fantastic-plastic.com/shield-helicarrier---catalog.html


Is your dad comfortable with working with resin? This is a resin kit, so by nature it's going to be bit more work to finish than a typical styrene model kit. If he's good with that though, this should build up into a very nice kit.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




I can't find which modelling thread recommended Testors ELO for stripping plastic models, so I'm crossposting it. That stuff is magic. I sloshed some over a couple of parts I needed to re-paint and in about 10 minutes the paint and primer were basically floating free of the plastic part. The toothbrush wasn't used for scrubbing, but just to wipe the old paint off.

Your mileage may, and probably will, vary based on what kind of plastic, primer, and paint you have. Always test a solvent on spare sprue or a sample of the material that you can stand watching melt into a puddle (test everything, especially varnish over clear parts). Mine was a scale model from Hasegawa and seemed like a pretty normal plastic for scale kits intended for PVC glue. The other part was from a Bandai HG gunpla kit. Everything had been primed with Vallejo ivory airbrush primer and painted with Model Air colors.

Thanks to whoever recommended it.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

mllaneza posted:

I can't find which modelling thread recommended Testors ELO for stripping plastic models, so I'm crossposting it. That stuff is magic. I sloshed some over a couple of parts I needed to re-paint and in about 10 minutes the paint and primer were basically floating free of the plastic part. The toothbrush wasn't used for scrubbing, but just to wipe the old paint off.

Your mileage may, and probably will, vary based on what kind of plastic, primer, and paint you have. Always test a solvent on spare sprue or a sample of the material that you can stand watching melt into a puddle (test everything, especially varnish over clear parts). Mine was a scale model from Hasegawa and seemed like a pretty normal plastic for scale kits intended for PVC glue. The other part was from a Bandai HG gunpla kit. Everything had been primed with Vallejo ivory airbrush primer and painted with Model Air colors.

Thanks to whoever recommended it.

Do you know if it works on Tamiya spray lacquers? I have a couple car bodies that I did really bad paint jobs on and I can't find anything good to strip them with.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Charliegrs posted:

Do you know if it works on Tamiya spray lacquers? I have a couple car bodies that I did really bad paint jobs on and I can't find anything good to strip them with.

Isopropyl should work with the tamiya lacquers cause I’ve used it previously to remove quite a few different kits. It takes a little time to eat through clear but once through that it works well

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013
e: nvm

Vorenus fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Jul 5, 2021

Leave
Feb 7, 2012

Taking the term "Koopaling" to a whole new level since 2016.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Monsters in Motion is a good site, they've been around for years. Can't go wrong with them. The kit maker does sell direct though, for slightly cheaper, so that might save you a few bucks. Shipping costs might be the decider between the two.

https://fantastic-plastic.com/shield-helicarrier---catalog.html


Is your dad comfortable with working with resin? This is a resin kit, so by nature it's going to be bit more work to finish than a typical styrene model kit. If he's good with that though, this should build up into a very nice kit.

He's not a resin man, as it turns out. I had to do some subtle poking around to find that out. He likes where he just gets to put the stuff together, paint it up, that kind of thing. Thank you for your help!

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?
Hello chums, someone told me to post my adventures in model kits in here because folk might like to see.

My vision is extremely poor and I'm getting old so I do not make like, high-quality perfection or anything, but I have been enjoying myself, and also I am now 2/3rds superglue by weight.

First kit I tried, little general store type thing. First time I ever wired up LEDs!



Next one, little takoyaki place.



I love how they look lit up, the lights add a lot and the shadows hide a lot of clumsy execution.



Then I found a little dollhouse kit for cheap so I tried that. Favourite thing is a tossup between the tiny kiwi fruit and the little slippers.



I'm still learning about how best to use glue, like the right amounts to use and such. I find this totally absorbing when I'm in the right mood and I get a good number of hours out of them. Eventually I want to branch out and build my own bits and pieces instead of just using kits but for now this is the right speed.

Darth Brooks
Jan 15, 2005

I do not wear this mask to protect me. I wear it to protect you from me.

Looks good.

If you look in my post history in this thread there's a few where I was looking for or wishing for a model of the car from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. The local public library got a 3D printer and they printed out a Thingverse version of Chitty for me.

Here's the car right out of the printer.



It had a few trees / sprues.



The underside looks really rough.



Here it is painted.





Now the part that's relevant to this thread. I have a model kit of a 1911 Buick that's old. I plan on 3D printing a model of the car and mixing in parts from the Buick where appropriate. There's a higher detail Version of Chitty that I've found and I want to separate the pieces on that and treat it as a model and not a solid piece. The wheels on the Buick are a soft rubber and the rims are close to the ones on the movie car.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Darth Brooks posted:

Looks good.

If you look in my post history in this thread there's a few where I was looking for or wishing for a model of the car from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. The local public library got a 3D printer and they printed out a Thingverse version of Chitty for me.

Here's the car right out of the printer.



It had a few trees / sprues.



The underside looks really rough.



Here it is painted.





Now the part that's relevant to this thread. I have a model kit of a 1911 Buick that's old. I plan on 3D printing a model of the car and mixing in parts from the Buick where appropriate. There's a higher detail Version of Chitty that I've found and I want to separate the pieces on that and treat it as a model and not a solid piece. The wheels on the Buick are a soft rubber and the rims are close to the ones on the movie car.

If you're going to go to go that far, you should see if you can get the parts printed on a resin printer instead of an FDM printer. You'll get significantly better detail on the parts.
There are people on SAmart and the 3d printing thread that can help you.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

HopperUK posted:

Hello chums, someone told me to post my adventures in model kits in here because folk might like to see.

My vision is extremely poor and I'm getting old so I do not make like, high-quality perfection or anything, but I have been enjoying myself, and also I am now 2/3rds superglue by weight.

First kit I tried, little general store type thing. First time I ever wired up LEDs!



Next one, little takoyaki place.



I love how they look lit up, the lights add a lot and the shadows hide a lot of clumsy execution.



Then I found a little dollhouse kit for cheap so I tried that. Favourite thing is a tossup between the tiny kiwi fruit and the little slippers.



I'm still learning about how best to use glue, like the right amounts to use and such. I find this totally absorbing when I'm in the right mood and I get a good number of hours out of them. Eventually I want to branch out and build my own bits and pieces instead of just using kits but for now this is the right speed.

These are great! I love these kids though I've never built one myself. I particularly like the night scene it reminds me a lot of summer nights here in the before times.

Darth Brooks
Jan 15, 2005

I do not wear this mask to protect me. I wear it to protect you from me.

Bucnasti posted:

If you're going to go to go that far, you should see if you can get the parts printed on a resin printer instead of an FDM printer. You'll get significantly better detail on the parts.
There are people on SAmart and the 3d printing thread that can help you.

The FDM is what I have available. At the moment I'm relying on the machine at the public library although I know someone interested in 3D printing who might buy a machine. How does the cost compare?

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Charliegrs posted:

Do you know if it works on Tamiya spray lacquers? I have a couple car bodies that I did really bad paint jobs on and I can't find anything good to strip them with.

I had acrylic on top of airbrush primer. The ELO broke the bond between the primer and the plastic s the paint and primer lifted off as one sheet. If you primed, you're golden. If you didn't prime, a spray lacquer will probably come off just fine.

But try a small sample piece first, ideally leftover sprue.

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

RillAkBea posted:

These are great! I love these kids though I've never built one myself. I particularly like the night scene it reminds me a lot of summer nights here in the before times.

Thanks! Yeah something about the light spilling onto the pavement is really evocative. I want to do more little shops and have a whole row.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




HopperUK posted:

Hello chums, someone told me to post my adventures in model kits in here because folk might like to see.

My vision is extremely poor and I'm getting old so I do not make like, high-quality perfection or anything, but I have been enjoying myself, and also I am now 2/3rds superglue by weight.

First kit I tried, little general store type thing. First time I ever wired up LEDs!




These are fantastic! Are they scratch built, or from a kit?

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

I'm working on my first model plane kit. I'm much more used to the easy mode gundam and games workshop kits but I'm hoping to airbrush this one and do some weathering with oils.

Do people try to do partial assemblies on the cockpit and seats to maybe try to apply decals, or is it best to just assemble everything with the decals left off since I am planning to airbrush it anyway?

The F/A-18 instructions in question:

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

most people assemble the cockpit more or less entirely, fully paint and decal it, then close it up.in the body of the plane and mask.it off.

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Work in sub assemblies if you can. If you were to assemble everything in that cockpit at once you’d have trouble decaling and weathering. It’s easier to work on the tub, seat, and instrument panel separately before assembling them.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Symetrique posted:

Work in sub assemblies if you can. If you were to assemble everything in that cockpit at once you’d have trouble decaling and weathering. It’s easier to work on the tub, seat, and instrument panel separately before assembling them.

Yup, this is exactly how I do it. If you are going the paint before glue route, you're going to want to use CA glue (superglue) to glue the parts together as regular model cement doesn't work on painted parts. I like the Bob Smith gel glue in the pink bottle for stuff like this.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

SkunkDuster posted:

Yup, this is exactly how I do it. If you are going the paint before glue route, you're going to want to use CA glue (superglue) to glue the parts together as regular model cement doesn't work on painted parts. I like the Bob Smith gel glue in the pink bottle for stuff like this.

It's not necessary to use CA glue in this situation, a glue like Tamiya extra-thin will dissolve many paints, but either way, the usual idea is to carefully scrape the paint away from the mating surfaces and then apply the cement.

Leave
Feb 7, 2012

Taking the term "Koopaling" to a whole new level since 2016.
Back again to ask about modeling stuff for my dad. A few weeks back, he went to the Air Force museum near Dayton, Ohio. He was all jazzed about seeing the Memphis Belle, and I was browsing Monsters in Motion, and found this.

It looks like a pretty good kit to me, but I still know next to nothing about this kind of thing. Is that a good kit? Like, if you built a lot if military plane models, would you be happy to get that?

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HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

SkunkDuster posted:

These are fantastic! Are they scratch built, or from a kit?

Thank you! From a kit! They're these little Chinese-made kits that I think are for the Japanese market. I get em from Amazon (I know, evil) - if you search 'cutebee' or 'diy house miniature kit' you'll find em. The pricing is really variable but once in a while they'll drop down below 15 quid and then I snap them up. I'm starting to eye up making them from scratch now that I'm seeing how things fit together etc but I've never done anything like that, so I'm still only pondering.

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