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tbf that's a really lovely print, maybe find an fdm that's set up correctly before you blow a wad on a resin printer
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Jul 6, 2021 15:36
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Bodanarko posted:Is this in reference to a specific update or something I missed? I’ve been running chitubox on my macs for 2 years Yeah, it's the new Chitubox Pro and Basic that are the only versions that support the new encrypted file format right now. So I have a $500 E10 board sitting in a box doing nothing, because I need that new format to use it. Yeah, I could use parallels or something, but that's an even bigger pain in the rear end than just having to slice with Chitubox. On top of it, the only version I could use is a beta, so who loving knows how and if it will work doing that.
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Jul 6, 2021 16:15
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that car was definitely printed by a beginner, and badly. on a machine that could probably use some work. or it was done quickly because everyone is asking their local library for plastic stuff now
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Jul 6, 2021 16:50
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Darth Brooks posted:
For printing small stuff, models, miniatures and action figures the detail on a resin printer is pretty much a necessity. For printing bigger things like statues, cosplay props or owrking parts a FDM printer is better. Here's a recent example of a resin print I did as an example.  There are a lot of people, including some in this thread making a business of 3d printing custom minis and collectibles. Doctor Zero posted:Yeah, it's the new Chitubox Pro and Basic that are the only versions that support the new encrypted file format right now. So I have a $500 E10 board sitting in a box doing nothing, because I need that new format to use it. Yeah, I could use parallels or something, but that's an even bigger pain in the rear end than just having to slice with Chitubox. On top of it, the only version I could use is a beta, so who loving knows how and if it will work doing that. So is the free version of Chitubox not going to support their special file format? I have the free version running on my mac, my printer accepts the .ctb files that it creates.
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Jul 6, 2021 17:17
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Bucnasti posted:So is the free version of Chitubox not going to support their special file format? I have the free version running on my mac, my printer accepts the .ctb files that it creates. Rough outline of events - Print makers announce new printers and mobos with even higher resolution (such as the E10 5k board and that new Phrozen 8k printer) - Chitu announces Chitubox Pro with more features and a price of $170 a year. *cue laugh track* - Printer manufacturers say, Oh by the way, those new boards use the new encrypted Chitubox format (something like .ecctb - I forget the new extension). And by the way, the only thing that can write that file format is Chitobox Pro and Chitubox Basic 1.9.0 and above. Both Epax and Phrozen said this after taking pre-orders, which is pretty stinky to me. Surely they knew this in advance. - People who have pre-ordered lose their collective poo poo. I've seen a lot of people say they are canceling their pre-order for the Mega 8k. Who knows if they really are, or if this is MMO level whining. Chitubox swears up one side and down the other they will support the free version of Chitubox just as well, but seriously, if they have a lock on the market, how likely is that? Chitu haș also said they will be releasing an SDK for the new file format, but so far have not said what exactly that means. I asked flat out in the FB announcement if that means other slicer software will be able to write the new format, but they didn't respond yet. Lychee devs have said they will try to crack the format, but aren't hopeful. All in all it's a cluster gently caress, and it's only going to get worse as people get their printers and find themselves locked into Chitubox. As far as me, I am mighty annoyed they pulled this crap before having all OSes supported. But in the long run, it will probably benefit me since there will be more people saying "fuckit" to buying a printer and ordering pre-printed instead. I still feel this is a dumb-gently caress cash grab that time and time again has blown up in the faces of companies that try to do this. But they never learn. Maybe they'll give in soonish, but I'm not holding my breath.It's suspicious to me that all Chitu has to do is make a definitive statement about the file format, but they have made several announcements and not made it clear, so I think they are just trying not to piss everyone off with their greed. That won't end well if that's what's going on.
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Jul 6, 2021 18:17
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Bucnasti posted:For printing small stuff, models, miniatures and action figures the detail on a resin printer is pretty much a necessity. For printing bigger things like statues, cosplay props or owrking parts a FDM printer is better. The broader issue is they may have been trying to lock down what software can be used on printers using chitu boards. From there it's basically a Cricut situation where one day the free version could vanish or get feature limited. Lots of movement on this right now. But yeah, they definitely weren't planning on supporting lychee etc and are now caught up in community backlash w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 18:17
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Fortunately I'm not looking to buy a new printer in the near future, hopefully by the time I do this will have been sorted. I really hate subscription software tools, I still use old pre-CC versions of all my Adobe products.
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Jul 6, 2021 18:51
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Time to dump that platform before everyone else catches on and the second-hand prices drop through the floor. gently caress all about that poo poo.
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Jul 6, 2021 18:54
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Doctor Zero posted:Resin is a little more expensive, especially on the resin vs FDM side. It’s not horrible though. You can get a nice one for $300-400 depending. You can get them cheaper, but those tend to be the older non-mono versions and there’s almost no reason to buy those now. There's always the VOXELAB Proxima 6.0in Monochrome. It's only $175 US on Amazon right now, is a monochrome printer, and prints just as well as any of my other printers. It's loud as gently caress but if you are looking to get into resin printing and have a tight budget I highly recommend this machine.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:04
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Darth Brooks posted:
Just saying that that print quality is not that great and you can easily get better quality from a fdm printer...but yeah, if you want to do miniatures, resin is the way to go.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:14
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I finally finished one of my larger projects Halo Master Chief Helmet https://imgur.com/gallery/2vdkRGj
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Jul 6, 2021 19:18
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Deviant posted:that car was definitely printed by a beginner, and badly. on a machine that could probably use some work. The guy running the machine is a friend and he's definitely a newbie as am I.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:31
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I mean, I'm no "expert" but I'm pretty sure I could get better results on my machine-that-must-not-be-named-lest-I-provoke-a-derail. EDIT: I'll give it a shot after my current run of prints for a nonsense project I'm working on are finished. It's this one, right? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936049 If so, which model? "Gen 1" or "MP Export"? Is there any difference other than orientation? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 19:36
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Darth Brooks posted:Crossposting this here because it was suggested. Resin often ends up better... But that is a ~bad~ print too. Here's what .05mm layer height looks like on a ~not well tuned~ printer. I'm saying this is what a mini can look like if it's printed with ~any sort of care~ and definitely not a well tuned setup.  FDM has it's advantages, in that it's generally easier to deal with the mess, is essentially non-toxic, and has little accessory "stuff" to deal with. Also, the raw material is generally cheaper.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:41
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mattfl posted:I finally finished one of my larger projects That's pretty badass! Kinda wanna try making one now.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:45
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I mean, I'm no "expert" but I'm pretty sure I could get better results on my machine-that-must-not-be-named-lest-I-provoke-a-derail. PrusaSlicer claims this can print in about 11 hours and 40 minutes on the idle Delta printer I have in my office. I'll get it going and maybe sometime tomorrow morning I'll have something to share (assuming that machine doesn't suffer a failure of some kind). Full disclosure, I'm scaling it up 200% and enabling supports "everywhere". If your friend at the library got it to print at 100% scale and they used the roughest/fastest print settings, that would explain a lot.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:45
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:That's pretty badass! Kinda wanna try making one now. It was a fun project. Especially since I had to slice it up into so many pieces and get it all "glued" back together, then the sanding/prime/rinse/repeat/etc. A lot of work but I'm super happy with how it turned out. Plus, the dude released the entire suit if you were so inclined to want to print it out lol
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Jul 6, 2021 19:58
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Does the suit include the bits that became a hilarious meme once everyone heard about it?
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Jul 6, 2021 20:03
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Doctor Zero posted:I still feel this is a dumb-gently caress cash grab that time and time again has blown up in the faces of companies that try to do this. But they never learn. Maybe they'll give in soonish, but I'm not holding my breath.It's suspicious to me that all Chitu has to do is make a definitive statement about the file format, but they have made several announcements and not made it clear, so I think they are just trying not to piss everyone off with their greed. That won't end well if that's what's going on. you'd think a shenzhen company would realize how easily their poo poo can get cloned
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Jul 6, 2021 20:09
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Darth Brooks posted:The guy running the machine is a friend and he's definitely a newbie as am I. I'm not 100% sure about this but it looks like the filament used for the print is white. If so, tell your friend to take that poo poo out of the printer and throw it in the nearest fire. White PLA is frequently crap because the additives needed to make it white - titanium dioxide I think? - also make the filament harder to melt consistently. Natural uncolored PLA is a kind of translucent yellowish which means any color other than that is due to coloring additive, but for some reason white is the worst offender. It might be the worst thing for a newbie printer to use when trying to get their FDM legs. e: this is of course in addition to any other tuning things that other people have mentioned. White PLA just complicates the whole issue.
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Jul 6, 2021 21:14
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mattfl posted:I finally finished one of my larger projects That looks amazing. Great job!
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Jul 6, 2021 21:46
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So I started a new job a little while ago. I inherited the responsibility of the 3d printer from the owner, I guess it was his toy or whatever. I know absolutely nothing about 3d printing aside from generally how the process works. It's an Ultimaker S5 with a material station sitting underneath it. I'm just wondering if anyone is familiar with these machines? Anything I should watch out for? Not sure if they are considered a good one. I've messed with it a bit, done some small prints and it pretty much just works, very user friendly at least. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 21:58
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A Proper Uppercut posted:So I started a new job a little while ago. I inherited the responsibility of the 3d printer from the owner, I guess it was his toy or whatever. I know absolutely nothing about 3d printing aside from generally how the process works. What are you supposed to print with it? Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 22:21
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Doctor Zero posted:What are you supposed to print with? Material-wise? I've got PLA, ABS, and some softer TPU stuff. And PVA for support material.
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Jul 6, 2021 22:32
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Material-wise? I've got PLA, ABS, and some softer TPU stuff. And PVA for support material. Sorry, missed a word there. What kinds of things are you supposed to print?
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Jul 6, 2021 22:32
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Doctor Zero posted:Sorry, missed a word there. What kinds of things are you supposed to print? Ah, nothing crazy. We are a custom plastic extrusion company, so mainly printing prototypes for testing fit and function. Usually just 2d profiles that are extruded out to a few inches long. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 22:34
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Ultimaker is a solid grade machine that is aimed at prosumer & pro tier users, they should have support and reference materials aimed at that as well. You won't have to go scouring facebook groups for secondhand support advice, is what I'm saying. You can go to the source and it'll exist.
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Jul 6, 2021 22:42
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The Eyes Have It posted:Ultimaker is a solid grade machine that is aimed at prosumer & pro tier users, they should have support and reference materials aimed at that as well. Yea, I've pretty much just been able to plug in settings for quality and material type and it just does it. Wasn't sure if how common this is. Good to know it's a decent machine.
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Jul 6, 2021 22:47
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"Little industrial prototypes" and "good commercial support" are two things Ultimakers are built for. Perfect fit.
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Jul 6, 2021 22:53
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Asking for a friend:quote:for detailed stuff, should you be airbrushing the acrylic as a primer, or is something like a krylon spraypaint good to use, it just seems too thick for detailed stuff This is for resin printing.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:59
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If you have an airbrush, priming with it is always the better choice, my preferred being Badger Stynylrez Black with a white ink zenithal. Otherwise yea Krylon spraypaint is totally fine, just do a light coat in several passes, it can take a bit of practice to get it smooth.
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Jul 7, 2021 00:04
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Thank you!
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Jul 7, 2021 01:23
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Hm. Well, the Chitty print printed, but I neglected to double-check the "Support Everywhere" settings and it's going to take a while to remove all of it. Also, even at 200% scale I don't think the little propeller bits on the wings are going to be easy to preserve (the support material that went into/around them are more substantial than the part itself--also I'm not sure what was going on with that random support material trail, there's nothing in the model there). I probably should've used one of my newer spools for this (and maybe just waited for the Mini to be idle, the delta is finicky on a good day and has that huge bowden tube on it), because this old red PLA spool is stringy as gently caress (but if I lower the temps it clogs on the Delta), but here it is straight off the machine:  Definitely a lovely Chitty. I'll give it another shot on the Mini and the setting profiles for that machine once it's idle if I don't see another "ooh, shiny, I'm going to print that" thing first. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Jul 7, 2021 |
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Jul 7, 2021 10:54
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A Proper Uppercut posted:So I started a new job a little while ago. I inherited the responsibility of the 3d printer from the owner, I guess it was his toy or whatever. I know absolutely nothing about 3d printing aside from generally how the process works. can’t speak to your question specifically, just wanted to say that you’re gonna have such a fun time with this stuff if you’re coming at it from the edm/conventional machining background. you cant do anywhere near the same kind of work, obviously, but where it’s suitable part design becomes wonderfully unconstrained, and the ‘CAM’ and ‘machining’ aspects are like if someone flipped an easy mode switch that nobody noticed on the shop wall before. i’m printing with a stereolithography-type UV-cure resin process so it’s a little different from your FDM process, but still, i feel like a little prince every time i queue up something with absurd unmachinable geometries and hyperfine surface details, spend 5 minutes configuring supports, one-touch start the print, then walk away and do something else for a couple of hours and reliably get great results. right now i’m designing tiny multi-part casting dies for bismuth-tin-lead alloys, i bake all the locating features into the CAD part and it all assembles perfectly on the first print with good fit-ups and everything and i don’t even have a drill press right now. it doesn’t really feel fair
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Jul 7, 2021 11:08
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So I printed a threaded bolt and an insert, 8cm/~3inches long for a micrometer from thingiverse. There seems to be a bend in it as it starts grinding on the same side each turn after I screwed a third of the bolt in, making it harder and harder to turn. This is very bad, as I need constant resistance while turning the bolt. Problem is, I can't even see the bend. If I put it on a flat surface, everything seems perfectly straight. Any idea what else it could be and/or how to calibrate my printer (Ender3)?
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Jul 7, 2021 11:41
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Doctor Zero posted:I though mono screens had better quality because they cure faster. I don’t have a non-mono printer to compare, but all the pics I see from non-mono printers are pretty clearly not as detailed. You're right, actually, monos reduce bleed because of the shorter exposures. Yeah, that's a pretty big strike against buying a non-mono nowadays. Wish I'd waited a month to buy a printer ,I would have opted for a Mars Pro 2 over the original Pro.
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Jul 7, 2021 12:18
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RabbitWizard posted:So I printed a threaded bolt and an insert, 8cm/~3inches long for a micrometer from thingiverse. There seems to be a bend in it as it starts grinding on the same side each turn after I screwed a third of the bolt in, making it harder and harder to turn. This is very bad, as I need constant resistance while turning the bolt. It's probably layer start/end points that have a little blobbing. You'll have one seam on each part, so when they line up, they rub.
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Jul 7, 2021 12:48
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sharkytm posted:It's probably layer start/end points that have a little blobbing. You'll have one seam on each part, so when they line up, they rub.
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Jul 7, 2021 13:05
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Hm. Well, the Chitty print printed, but I neglected to double-check the "Support Everywhere" settings and it's going to take a while to remove all of it. I could see in the Thingverse preview that the Chitty had really poor detail, which is why mine was printed at 5" long. The plan is to take this one from sketchfab and bring it in to Blender and make the changes I need to make it work, including taking the individual pieces apart for printing. I have a very newbie question, what is Tuning? I can pass on the advice to stop using white material. The machine he's using is a Flashforge Dreamer.
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Jul 7, 2021 14:19
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Darth Brooks posted:I have a very newbie question, what is Tuning? I can pass on the advice to stop using white material. The machine he's using is a Flashforge Dreamer. Wow, that's an old machine design that didn't have a very long lifespan in the general hobbyist market (lasted about as long as the Dremel 3d printer, IIRC). I found this project that seems to have temporarily halted development of a Cura profile, if you want to putz around with it. https://github.com/Toylerrr/Flashforge-for-Cura You probably still need the X3G plug-in for Cura as well if Flashforge machines still use that file format. If your friend happens to have access to an old Simplify3D license there may be profiles for that printer there as well. EDIT: "Tuning" in this sense is basically "trial and error with different settings until you get good prints". Basically pick a handful of different "calibration" shapes on Thingiverse and focus on the settings that printing each shape until you get good prints for each one. Each slicer developer has general guides about what each of their slicer settings mean, but back in the day the one posted by Simplify3d was an really thorough example to reference (and may still use some of the same terms for different slicer settings in whatever Flashforge uses for it's slicer). Here is that guide: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Jul 7, 2021 |
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Jul 7, 2021 14:35
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