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this video is siiiiiiiick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoEeHwd5GTs
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Jun 25, 2021 05:32
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:After a month and a half of not climbing, I feel bad at climbing now. Itll come back! I always appreciate these humbling times to step back and work on my feet by doing some traverse work. Whenever I come back and feel bad its usually because Im not using my feet enough. Also - any goons in the Vegas area that want to hit some high altitude limestone?
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Jun 27, 2021 06:23
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Hot Diggity! posted:this video is siiiiiiiick Pretty crazy. I suppose for pro climbers who have the freedom to practically go where ever they want, there's probably no shortage of stuff they want to climb... But for just "regular people" who are really strong, I wonder if it's almost boring? Lately I pretty quickly get tired of any given week's set of problems at my gym. Seems like everything I either flash or almost flash, or it just feels impossible. Only every couple of sets do I find something where it's like, oh yea this will be a good project for a little bit. I guess there is one other gym in my area, I only went once years ago and had a really bad impression so I never went back. But other than that, it's a 90 minute drive to the only other gym "nearby".
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Jun 27, 2021 21:28
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Sab669 posted:Pretty crazy. RE: the bolded part. I think that's because the differences in difficulty between grades increase as you go up in grades, which means that your weaknesses in any certain area (contact strength, endurance, flexibility, etc.) will be much more pronounced. I do agree with you regarding pro climber videos. And I think even pro climbers get really bored. The guy in that video did not seem like he was having a good time. He just looked highly obsessed and spent the vast majority of his time really frustrated and angry. That doesn't seem like a good way to enjoy a sport, or any other endeavor.
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Jun 27, 2021 22:10
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Sab669 posted:Pretty crazy. Does your gym have a moon board or one of the other boards with problems online, so you can pick out a longer term project you like from that and have the board stay constant indefinitely?
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Jun 27, 2021 22:51
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Slow News Day posted:RE: the bolded part. I think that's because the differences in difficulty between grades increase as you go up in grades, which means that your weaknesses in any certain area (contact strength, endurance, flexibility, etc.) will be much more pronounced. I think the problem is also partly due to my new refusal to do dynos, and my gym often sets those around my grade so it's like, oh cool the cave finally got reset... And the one V4 or V5 here is a dyno.... so there's virtually nothing for me to do here because the 3 is too easy and the 6 is absolutely not happening. Their grading has also been really all over the place lately. A V6 I got recently was much easier than two different V4s they just set too  And not even a "oh it was just my forte" kinda thing, many many people I've talked to agree on that.gohuskies posted:Does your gym have a moon board or one of the other boards with problems online, so you can pick out a longer term project you like from that and have the board stay constant indefinitely? That's a good idea, I don't know why I haven't checked out the moon board yet.
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Jun 27, 2021 22:56
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I think you should work on the 6 that is really not happening. That's how I got my first 6 and my first 7. Hell that's how I still often get 6s and 7s nowadays. I think at a certain level problems that will.challenge you will often feel absolutely impossible for a session or two and then there's some breakthrough and you feel like it may go if you give it some time.
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Jun 27, 2021 23:27
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Yea I've been pushing myself to try higher-graded stuff that I know won't happen, just for the sake of doing something different. Only way to get better is to do new things, yea? But there are many that I just can't even start. I did finally manage to get that tough slab problem I posted a few weeks back, and more importantly no one even walked in the frame this time  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTFQi2RNRPM not the cleanest finish, but man slab with 2 giant rails flanking you is sketchy haha.
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Jun 27, 2021 23:39
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The semis for boudlering at Innsbruck last weekend go taken down from youtube because they were too horny
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Jun 28, 2021 19:23
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:The semis for boudlering at Innsbruck last weekend go taken down from youtube because they were too horny lmao what
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Jun 28, 2021 19:30
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Basically the cameraman was mega zoomed in on one of the women's rear end for an awkwardly long time. I didn't see it but that's what I gather from reddit.
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Jun 28, 2021 20:02
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Sab669 posted:Basically the cameraman was mega zoomed in on one of the women's rear end for an awkwardly long time. I didn't see it but that's what I gather from reddit. I wonder if it's the same guy that got wayyyy too close to the climbers during the lead final and even got bumped by Janja
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Jun 28, 2021 23:09
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Sab669 posted:Basically the cameraman was mega zoomed in on one of the women's rear end for an awkwardly long time. I didn't see it but that's what I gather from reddit. Awkward. I actually wanted to see that (the climbing I mean, not a lingering close up of someones gym shorts)
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Jun 29, 2021 01:01
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It's reuploaded now
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Jun 29, 2021 04:32
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Did some outdoor sport and trad yesterday at an old quarry which is now a lake surrounded by a housing development. It was a lovely day so there were a few people there and it was very chill and relaxing. Haven't really climbed trad properly before (one mega-short crack many years ago) but we were only climbing grade 15 ewbanks (5.7/5.8) so never even felt close to having to rest on the rope. There wasn't a ton of gear placements and the rock was pretty chossy but luckily there were plenty of nice ledges to stand on when putting in gear so we had all the time in the world to faf around trying different things. I think the experience reinforced to me that my 'ideal' climb is a really long but really easy multi-pitch. I love getting out on the rock and having big exposure in beautiful places but I'm not so keen on really pushing hard to scaring the poo poo out of myself.
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Jul 4, 2021 22:55
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Blackhawk posted:I think the experience reinforced to me that my 'ideal' climb is a really long but really easy multi-pitch. This is my dream climb as well
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Jul 4, 2021 23:03
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My dream climb is any V5 that I can actually send 
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Jul 5, 2021 04:44
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:My dream climb is any V5 that I can actually send ive only sent one gym one and i cant even seem to get started on any these days 
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Jul 5, 2021 05:38
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The v5s in my gym right now are really inconsistently graded. I onsighted 3 of them on Sunday but there are 2 more that feel super hard. There are 2 v6s that I'll probably get before those 5s.
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Jul 5, 2021 13:27
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Blackhawk posted:
I don't know when I'll ever get out to Washington, but there's an 18 pitch 5.9 that I'd like to climb one day. Royal Flush was pretty fun, although my buddy didn't drink enough electrolytes and turned into a zombie on the walk down Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Jul 5, 2021 |
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Jul 5, 2021 14:16
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armorer posted:The v5s in my gym right now are really inconsistently graded. I onsighted 3 of them on Sunday but there are 2 more that feel super hard. There are 2 v6s that I'll probably get before those 5s. My gym has been wildly inconsistent in the v4-6 range lately, it's really annoying. Got one V6 that I thought was a V4 before they graded it. Can't even start another V4 they recently set, and there was one V4 but one move in it felt way more V6 and there was no way to avoid it so I never sent it, and all of the much stronger/better climbers than I all struggled with that part as well. I know grades don't really matter and it's all just fun, but somehow part of me is always annoyed by it
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Jul 5, 2021 14:30
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I think setting's just hard, I can't remember a time where the setting in my gym didn't feel that way. Plenty of v4-v6 routes I can't establish on the start/plenty of v6-v8 routes I flash. Fortunately they put in kilter and moon boards some time during the pandemic so I'm going to find some good projects on those and just try every problem in the gym and ignore grades for the most part in the regular setting.
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Jul 5, 2021 14:56
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Talk to the people that set and try to figure out which side the problem is on. If the gym is consistently inconsistent it's probably more likely that you either lack the correct beta or are weak in the technique required for the problem. Being unable to do a V4 but able to flash V8s at the same gym definitely points to a setting issue though.
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Jul 5, 2021 18:21
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Yeah my gym setting isn't nearly that inconsistent. I'm solidly a 5/6 climber there, and can occasionally snag a 7 if I put the time in on it and it's my style. It's just that the 5s on this latest set are either notably easy or hard, like 5-/5+ with nothing in the middle.
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Jul 5, 2021 18:31
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Eh, I'm a pretty unbalanced climber to be fair to the setters. It's really easy to set a tall person friendly sloper problem that I just can't do that's fine if you're like..5'10'' and have reasonably sized hands. And really easy to set a crimpy problem that I will cruise that the same 5'10'' guy with regular sized hands can't do poo poo on. I think the main issue is the single color holds = difficulty range. I'm sure it seems great aesthetically that all your v1-2s are blue etc, but in practice I think it ends up limiting the setters, especially once the whole gym is set and you're pulling from a pretty small pool of holds when you reset any given section. The other group of gyms in town set that way for several years and also had really inconsistent grading the whole time, and over the pandemic they stripped all their gyms and now just tape the start/end holds the color of the difficulty and it's really improved things. I think they still have some set colors at the bottom so beginners always know they can hop on a white or a yellow and it will be beginner appropriate. On the plus side they set around 30 problems a week and have a kilter board, so it's not a big deal if any particular problem is bad.
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Jul 5, 2021 19:50
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30 problems a week is slick. My gym sets less than 10 per week. There's always a V0, 1, 2, 3 then sometimes only 4 or 5 and usually a few in the 6-10 range but I don't especially take note of those because I'm just not really there yet 
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Jul 5, 2021 21:20
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Happiness Commando posted:I don't know when I'll ever get out to Washington, but there's an 18 pitch 5.9 that I'd like to climb one day. I climbed this route years ago: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107500597/bunny-bucket-buttress Which was about the limit of my climbing at the time (but luckily my partner was better than me). It was a very cool experience, one of the biggest deals is that there's no easy access to the bottom, you have to make 2 x 60m rappels pulling the rope down after you and then you have no choice but to climb out again. I think I'd have an easier time of it these days but I'd still almost prefer something even easier even if it was trad. Edit: For whatever reason on that website it's listed as 5.8 but it's definitely 5.10a... Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jul 5, 2021 |
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Jul 5, 2021 23:08
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A bunch of my friends are getting back into indoor bouldering now that the local gym is open at full capacity again, and I went with them the last time but didn't climb (it was for someone's b-day so I was there as moral support, lol). It got me pretty excited to try bouldering myself again. Problem is, I'm pretty badly overweight-- 6'2" and 280lbs. I actually did some bouldering with them pre-pandemic and managed to send a handful of V0-2 problems (the gym color codes circuits that span a few difficulties so I have no idea which they were, probably V1s). I would guess I was at least 5-10 pounds lighter at the time though. So my question is, am I best off trying to lose some weight before climbing regularly, or do I suck it up and go when I can, and just accept I'll probably be pretty bad or have no endurance for a while? Bouldering sounds a lot more exciting than just exercising at home, and I really don't care about looking out of place or anything, I'm mostly concerned about not injuring myself before I even get into it.
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Jul 6, 2021 07:00
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Never wait to be in shape before doing a sport that interest you. Starting climbing now will probably help motivate you to reach your goals. You do need be careful and don't get yourself injured though. Your knees and ankles will probably take a beating from jumping down/falling from problems. You already climbed in the past so you'll know what it does to your body better than I do and if it's something you can do safely. Try and downclimb everything, don't push it, etc. I wouldn't worry too much about injuring your fingers/hand/shoulders since.you'll be climbing on jugs and probably won't be jumping around KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 11:29
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Fully agree with King there. Never say no to exercise that interests you. I've seen a fair few big dudes at my gym, and on /r/bouldering. Before you know it maybe you'll start biking to the gym like I did, or be looking for other things to help you climb better 🙃 Just be really sure to listen to your body and don't over do it. And again, as King said, try to downclimb as much as you can to mitigate ankle injuries. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 11:46
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I've known a couple of fairly hefty climbers and it's safe to say that it's certainly easier to get injured when you're carrying more weight, even if you're strong; but if you enjoy climbing it's also a good motivator to help you to lose weight. Unfortunately, climbing isn't a very effective way to lose weight unless you're already in good enough shape to spend a lot of time on the wall in a single session, so if you want to lose weight to climb better you do really need to do supplementary exercise (since I moved late last year I cycle most days I don't climb which seems to be a good combination for me)
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Jul 6, 2021 12:14
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RabidWeasel posted:I've known a couple of fairly hefty climbers and it's safe to say that it's certainly easier to get injured when you're carrying more weight, even if you're strong; but if you enjoy climbing it's also a good motivator to help you to lose weight. Unfortunately, climbing isn't a very effective way to lose weight unless you're already in good enough shape to spend a lot of time on the wall in a single session, so if you want to lose weight to climb better you do really need to do supplementary exercise (since I moved late last year I cycle most days I don't climb which seems to be a good combination for me) While I mostly agree with this, losing weight is 95% in your plate. If wanting to get better at climbing helps you manage your food intake then it'll make a.big difference but Rabidweasel is 100% right in saying that the exercise you'll get from climbing will not make a difference. It'll make you look better if and when you lose the weight though.
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Jul 6, 2021 12:59
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Nth'ing the "start climbing now" advice. You'll be motivated to stick with the weight loss because you'll see it improve your climbing as you go. Unless you're already rail skinny, losing 20 pounds will improve your climbing more than a shitload of climbing specific training ever could. (That's actually a negative in my opinion once you're already in good physical condition. I think it encourages climbers to chase unhealthy physiques in order to push the grade. For me at least, I think being "lifestyle strong" is a lot more important than being "climber strong", because as much as I love climbing I also need to be able to do other physical pursuits.)
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Jul 6, 2021 14:32
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RabidWeasel posted:I've known a couple of fairly hefty climbers and it's safe to say that it's certainly easier to get injured when you're carrying more weight, even if you're strong; but if you enjoy climbing it's also a good motivator to help you to lose weight. Unfortunately, climbing isn't a very effective way to lose weight unless you're already in good enough shape to spend a lot of time on the wall in a single session, so if you want to lose weight to climb better you do really need to do supplementary exercise (since I moved late last year I cycle most days I don't climb which seems to be a good combination for me) Yeah Ive lost over 30 pounds since mid March and its been through cycling, climbing, and most importantly monitoring what I put in my body.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:15
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Yea, diet is everything. I haven't been able to lose / maintain these last 10 pounds no matter how much I bike and climb and walk because at the end of the day I loving love chocolate and candy and peanut butter
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Jul 6, 2021 23:25
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The only thing worth noting is that you need to be at a caloric deficit to lose weight, and being at a caloric deficit will negatively impact your climbing performance and recovery speed. Not a huge concern for beginners, but something to keep in mind if you're doing either of those things (climbing and cutting) aggressively at the same time.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:31
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Mezzanon posted:monitoring what I put in my body. Yeah, it's insane how many calories are in something like a tortilla. I'm down 10 pounds with 10 more to go all by counting calories and paying attention to things like portion size.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:39
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Slow News Day posted:The only thing worth noting is that you need to be at a caloric deficit to lose weight, and being at a caloric deficit will negatively impact your climbing performance and recovery speed. Not a huge concern for beginners, but something to keep in mind if you're doing either of those things (climbing and cutting) aggressively at the same time. Oh cool, another excuse to use when I'm having a bad day climbing.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:48
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The best exercise is the exercise you do. I've always found going to the gym to lift weights or run on a treadmill to be a dreadful chore. I got in to climbing a few years ago as a man in my thirties. Maybe climbing is not the most optimal exercise, but for me, climbing feels like a game and is inherently fun and that, plus the positive social experiences I've had climbing, is very powerfully motivating. And, I have found as a person who was very much an "indoor kid" growing and was not in the best shape, I have gone through something of a psychological shift since I've gotten in to climbing and I am now probably in the best shape I've ever been in. Climbing alone won't necessarily change things. But, if climbing means you're skipping after work drinks to go to the climbing gym, or getting up early on a Saturday to get to the crag, or means you take up yoga to improve flexibility and balance, then the subtle changes can add up. Or, that's been my experience.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:59
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Same sorta. After a life of being a skinny bike kid with no upper body strength and no interest in it, I took up climbing because it was a fun game. After a year or so I saw a pull up bar, which I could never even do one before, and gave it a go... turns out I could do like ten  When I hurt my knee, I decided to take a hiatus and take up weightlifting instead to keep up the strength I had gotten from climbing. Pre climbing me never would have lifted a weight. Just a total shift in how I thought about exercise, because of climbing.
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Jul 7, 2021 00:18
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