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I made a bick of sorts to help me forge some round ring like stuff (for scythe handles and also a retaining ring for the scythe blade itself)  Should probably have made a longer shank for the hardy hole, but it was pretty tiring work, it seems to hold well when I try and beat on it. Eventually I might point it to make it more flexible, fo rnow I will just clean up the surfaces.
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Jun 24, 2021 12:44
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i find myself in the faintly ridiculous position of 3d printing a casting ladle, a sentence that really shouldnt make sense, and yet (more of a dipper than a ladle, really. i'm already making 3d printed casting molds for tin-bismuth alloys with this super high-temp resin that's intended for making plastic injection molds, i almost bought a small commercial bottom-tapping ladle before realizing i can just design one with all the special features i want, and it'll cost me less than $5 in resin)   i'm tempted to just go for broke and attempt a miniscule bottom-pouring pot, the sort you don't tilt at all but just press a button/lever, but the mechanisms that'll need are a bit daunting. baby steps first, let's make sure this plastic holds up properly when just 20C away from the point at which it starts losing strength Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Jun 28, 2021 |
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Jun 28, 2021 11:44
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A friend of mine has a blacksmithing channel he runs from a "living history" museum/workshop here in town. I thought you might get a kick out of this beastly saw they just got: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO7UWTfwG6g (No, I haven't asked him about the hat. Yes, he only appears to wear it in his forge.)
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Jul 2, 2021 16:40
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Trabant posted:A friend of mine has a blacksmithing channel he runs from a "living history" museum/workshop here in town. I thought you might get a kick out of this beastly saw they just got: I've been out at Pioneer Farm working lately, although we're off for the summer currently. Neat to see what they're getting up to over there.
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Jul 4, 2021 17:01
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My hewing hatchet is in the hands of a welder. Without prompting he said he was going to grind it out and fix it exactly as you guys said, so confidence all around!
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Jul 4, 2021 18:32
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Trabant posted:A friend of mine has a blacksmithing channel he runs from a "living history" museum/workshop here in town. I thought you might get a kick out of this beastly saw they just got: You must ask about the hat
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Jul 5, 2021 05:53
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i grant dispensations for wearing a little bit of goofy poo poo in the forge, even if you’re not doing period-accurate work or reenactor poo poo or whatever- it sounds ridiculous to say it out loud, but i find blacksmithing has an unusually-strong sense of connection to the historical trade and especially to all the smiths that came before you, who’ve done the same fundamental work as you’re doing right now since somewhere north of 5000BCE. going out to the forge, getting it to heat etc has a more ritualistic character to it than just, you know, sitting down at a jeweller’s bench or whatever. so i understand a goofy affectation or two as getting you into The Blacksmith Zone mentally, if that makes sense. and it absolutely seems very common, albeit usually in subtler ways One of my instructors always wore a fuckin leather utilikilt in the forge, and while that would have made me die of sympathetic embarrassment under normal circumstances, you know what? that’s workwear here, i won’t call it PPE but i also won’t make fun of it or judge it out of hand
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Jul 6, 2021 07:25
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this is very, very specific, but you never know: i’m looking for reliable ballpark number for the momentary force a typical blacksmith can apply with a typical mid-weight forging hammer. be nice to figure out the same for a sledge, but for relatively small-swing smith’s sledgework, not full-windup demolition blows or whatever. i know how to calculate it, but i have to make so many wild guesses on variables (speed of hammer at moment of impact, actual duration of impact, etc) that any number i get is basically arbitrary. lots of people on Quora or w/e take cracks at it and their figures are similarly scattershot. it strikes me as the sort of thing that might have been useful to know 100, 150 years ago for some engineering application, or the sort of interesting aside that might get tucked into the early chapter of a blacksmithing book, that sort of thing. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 14:43
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I need a weight for the end of a tape measure. I need it as small but heavy. Lead is not an option for this, nor are some fancy exotic things. I was figuring on brass. Is it heavier than steel? Like denser I mean?
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Jul 6, 2021 16:06
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I need a weight for the end of a tape measure. I need it as small but heavy. Lead is not an option for this, nor are some fancy exotic things. I was figuring on brass. Is it heavier than steel? Like denser I mean? Slightly more dense than mild steel, yes. Silver would be more dense still: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metal-alloys-densities-d_50.html
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Jul 6, 2021 16:24
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You want easy casting for something like that, so use a lead-adjacent nontoxic metal or probably alloy. Tin- and bismuth-based alloys in particular come to mind. Density is higher than steel and iirc brass too. And you can melt it on your stove in any old pot. Pure bismuth will be even denser than an alloy but it’s very brittle and generally lovely to do anything with pure, adding some tin or sth like that makes it dramatically more workable and lowers the melting temperature. I actually cast a custom monogrammed plumb bob from 60:40 tin:bismuth low-melting tooling alloy just last week. Satisfyingly dense and polishes to a clean silver colour that doesn’t seem to tarnish quickly. it’s also soft enough that the tip warrants a brass/steel insert or cap for protection, but this is a gift more than a working tool so it’s fine. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 16:32
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Ambrose Burnside posted:this is very, very specific, but you never know: i’m looking for reliable ballpark number for the momentary force a typical blacksmith can apply with a typical mid-weight forging hammer. be nice to figure out the same for a sledge, but for relatively small-swing smith’s sledgework, not full-windup demolition blows or whatever. This is going to be a measured thing, for all of the reasons you list. And 100, 150, whatever years ago, they would have just made a prototype to get in the ballpark and then tune the weights and whatever to get the force to produce the desired result. "Engineering" a century ago was more about how parts fit together than about how to make the lightest, strongest possible structure using the least amount of material by knowing all the forces in advance.
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Jul 6, 2021 19:30
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I found out the right way to do this, and yeah it’s experimental. elegant and accessible, too -cast two identical lead cylinders of known dimensions, using metal from the same ingot/batch for both. -smash one of the cylinders with your hammer -measure the before/after height difference -take your second cylinder and compress it in a shop press fitted with a pressure gauge, slowly increasing pressure until it is the same height as the first -note the pressure reading, convert to preferred unit of force
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Jul 6, 2021 21:27
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I need a weight for the end of a tape measure. I need it as small but heavy. Lead is not an option for this, nor are some fancy exotic things. I was figuring on brass. Is it heavier than steel? Like denser I mean? make it out of pure gold
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Jul 7, 2021 00:17
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I need a weight for the end of a tape measure. I need it as small but heavy. Lead is not an option for this, nor are some fancy exotic things. I was figuring on brass. Is it heavier than steel? Like denser I mean? How are you planning on attaching it to the tape measure? Do you need to drill a hole through it to bolt it on, or can you use epoxy or something? Lead is definitely your best density-for-the-buck, and you can essentially cut it with scissors and crimp it onto the end of the tape with pliers. Tungsten is even denser than lead and not all that expensive (check eBay for small pieces), but it's hard to machine, so you'd probably have to grind it to shape and epoxy it on. Brass is not as dense as either lead or tungsten, but it's cheap enough and easy to work with. If you want to cast a weight like ambrose burnside suggests, a roll of silver solder from the plumbing aisle would be decent raw material. Steel is less dense than everything else I've mentioned. Note that if you want it to be 100% lead-free instead of just "not a block of lead," brass is out because the free-machining grades you'll find are about 3% lead. Most lead-free solders also contain the same 2-3% lead, though silver stuff meant for plumbing should be fine.
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Jul 7, 2021 00:50
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othergoons posted:Sciency poo poo Ummmm, I guess lead free isn't absolutely necessary, I just didn't want to use a chunk of pure lead. Attachment method will be electrical tape. I just need it to measure the depths of holes in the ground.Depths range from less than 10 feet to 70+ft. Typically 4 inches in (hole) diameter. Occasionally with a 2 inch diameter plastic pipe in there, so when the hole isn't "clean" shall we say, and there is a pipe in there, there is only a small annulus to fit the end of my tape down. Thus the small and heavy part. Otherwise, I'd find a 2 foot piece of like 3/4 inch rebar and let that poo poo fly. Silver and gold are out of the question, as these tapes regularly break off down hole and I don't want to give a gently caress about getting the weight back, though the bling factor would be pretty dope. Also because these things regularly break off down hole, I don't want to use a chunk of lead because these holes are often used for environmental monitoring, and something something lead in groundwater or whatever. Is there lead free brass? Size wise, I'm looking for a piece thats maybe an inch wide, 3/8" thick and maybe 6 inches long.
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Jul 7, 2021 01:57
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Is there lead free brass? Size wise, I'm looking for a piece thats maybe an inch wide, 3/8" thick and maybe 6 inches long. Aluminum Bronze? All the flat bar brass on McMaster has lead. Al Bronze Bar If you’re going to go through a few of em, just grab a couple feet and cut off what you need
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Jul 7, 2021 02:46
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I mean... if you're just taping poo poo to the end of your tape measure just grab a nearby rock
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Jul 7, 2021 06:34
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The rebar was the most sensible idea, now we know what you're actually doing.
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Jul 7, 2021 09:33
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Can you not drop a line down the hole and then measure the line? You're re-inventing a sounding line, as used nautically. Anyway the answer is fishing weights. Cheap, small, expendable, available in a wide range of calibrated weights, and you can pass a hook or wire through the tab at the end of the tape measure to affix them.
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Jul 7, 2021 18:23
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Best use case for a laser measure I’ve ever heard.
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Jul 7, 2021 18:25
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Leperflesh posted:Can you not drop a line down the hole and then measure the line? You're re-inventing a sounding line, as used nautically.  I use these for depth finding when ice fishing. Just need to add a cheapo line counter and he's good.
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Jul 7, 2021 18:45
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Leperflesh posted:Can you not drop a line down the hole and then measure the line? You're re-inventing a sounding line, as used nautically. Is that like one of those strings that changes color every 10 feet? Maybe I'm just imagining that.
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Jul 8, 2021 14:18
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Roughly how deep are these holes? Are we talking 6 to 10 feet, or 200 feet? I have a cistern that goes about 10 feet underground and I just use a 12 foot 1*1 that has graduated markings on it to check the levels.
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Jul 8, 2021 15:11
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the rare 3d printing crosspost- a printed casting ladle/dipper, for working with eutectic low-melting alloys Ambrose Burnside posted:3d printed myself a goddamn metal casting ladle. the future is wild
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Jul 8, 2021 16:10
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SkunkDuster posted:Is that like one of those strings that changes color every 10 feet? Maybe I'm just imagining that. Sure, or you can just use the ancient method of tying a series of knots in any old rope and counting how many go by.
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Jul 8, 2021 16:17
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Sagebrush posted:Sure, or you can just use the ancient method of tying a series of knots in any old rope and counting how many go by. yeah knots are the way to go for this, counting them by touch as you bring the line in is super easy, for whatever reason i don’t lose count like you do when visually counting
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Jul 8, 2021 16:49
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Thanks for the replies goony goons!! A smallish piece of brass it is!! Either you guys are way over thinking this or I'm totally missing  Smart assery aside, I do appreciate the input. Even the comedy replies  To recap: Its a long fibreglass tape measure with both inches/feet and metres and centimetres. Weight needs to be small (low profile) but heavy. Hole depths from less than 10 feet to 70 + Diameters are typically 4 inch, sometimes bigger. Frequently with a 2 3/8" (OD) pipe inside the hole, so the low profile weight is important because there is sometimes little annular space to fit the tape between the side of the hole and outside of the pipe. Especially if the side of the hole isn't "clean" or there is a deviation from vertical. Needs to be cheap enough that I don't give a gently caress if it breaks off down the hole as this frequently happens. Anywho, a piece of brass electrical taped to the end seems like the best bet to fit the bill.
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Jul 8, 2021 17:12
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Thanks for the replies goony goons!! Ah, when you mentioned the pipe last time I thought you would be running your line inside the pipe, not outside the pipe between the pipe wall and the wall of the hole.
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Jul 8, 2021 17:32
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I want to get into MIG+FCAW but man there are just so many options and I don’t really know what feature set will keep me happy and what I might find pisses me off to be missing in a year. I imagine 90% of my efforts will be 1/8” steel or lighter. Not fast production, I’m a novice. Aluminum would be nice but I guess for the thicknesses I’d be likely to do MIG is generally too intense? Seems like any of them that run on 240 will also do 120, in my shop I can have whatever I need available but the option to take it with me elsewhere would be nice. I’m perfectly happy dropping $500. 7-800 is fine if it pushes me past a threshold of quality/functionality. I’d fairly strongly avoid going over a grand unless absolutely necessary. But like, I see there’s a Hobart 140 for about $500 that claims it’ll do 1/4” mild steel, am I going to hate life with something like that? Or should I drop an extra hundred on what appears to be a similarly specced Lincoln Easy MIG 140? Or should I just jump in deeper and throw $800 at a Lincoln LE31MP which says MIG/TIG/etc but then I worry that while it’s doing a bunch of poo poo, at that price point it’ll be doing it all poorly? But maybe for my skill level it doesn’t matter? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 19:34
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Hi! I sanded some aluminum, cleaned it, and put on 2 coats of protectaclear. There are some strange spots that were visible before the protectaclear, but are now more visible. Whatever it is, it is impervious to Dawn, acetone, and sandpaper. Maybe it's harder regions of metal? Mostly I'm just curious. I'm not going to refinish this piece. It's 3/8 x 6" extruded 6061 T6511 (Sorry I didn't take any pictures before it was coated. It didn't look as prominent then, so while I noticed it, I didn't really care.)
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Jul 20, 2021 03:15
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ryanrs posted:Hi! I sanded some aluminum, cleaned it, and put on 2 coats of protectaclear. There are some strange spots that were visible before the protectaclear, but are now more visible. There’s a lot it could be and is hard to tell from photos but area of slightly different metallurgy is definitely a possibility. Especially if it’s elongated in the extrusion direction of the billet.
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Jul 20, 2021 04:38
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Fingerprints leading to uneven oxidation would be my guess from the look of the spots.
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Jul 20, 2021 05:39
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Yeah I've seen that happen to freshly cut 6061 stock before, I always figured it was finger grease inhibiting oxidation but that would come off with acetone or iso.
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Jul 20, 2021 12:05
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Yeah, my thought is that the solvent took off the fingerprint oils, but when they oxidized it didn't quite match the rest, leaving a viable marks.
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Jul 20, 2021 13:19
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Bad Munki posted:I want to get into MIG+FCAW but man there are just so many options and I don’t really know what feature set will keep me happy and what I might find pisses me off to be missing in a year. I've got a Hobart handler 120 and a precision tig 225. The Hobart is awesome and I use it all the time. If you go with an inexpensive mig to start and decide to upgrade later you'll keep the mig and still use it. Further advice we would need to know specifically what you're going to be making or working on.
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Jul 20, 2021 14:12
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honda whisperer posted:I've got a Hobart handler 120 and a precision tig 225. The Hobart is awesome and I use it all the time. I think this was all I needed, just sort of a sanity check. Got me a unit and spent some time laying down line after line. Good fun, enjoying it! Only doing FCAW with it so far, haven’t gotten to pick up any gas. FCAW question: when starting the weld, should I have the wire in contact with the object before pulling the trigger, or should I have it just off the surface so the feed pushes it down into contact? I couldn’t decide which worked better and more consistently.
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Jul 22, 2021 03:23
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I am not a MIG expert but I find it works best when you start in contact and keep the nozzle as close as you can to the material. When you're too far the wire just explodes and spatters, but when you get close enough you'll get the sizzling sound and much smoother welds.
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Jul 22, 2021 03:27
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Don't do what I did and let your mig wire go rusty in the machine  I had a hell of a time getting my old mans flux core welder working again after that.I have had a lot more spare time on my hands lately so I decided to have a go at welding together a reclining computer chair,   It goes all the way back, not pictured here is a scissor jack that gets installed in the base to adjust the deck angle,  It's primed and ready for paint and upholstering. EDIT: personally I'd take the spool out and bag it if I was going to store the machine for more than a couple months but I live in a pretty humid place near the ocean.VVVVVV coldpudding fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 17:30
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So what, just pull the wire if the machine is getting stashed for a while? Throw some large desiccant pack in the spool compartment?
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Jul 22, 2021 17:33
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