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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Dunno what couldcareless linked to but here's something I had saved on Reddit which is similar/maybe the same, re: getting max value on insurance claims:

quote:

Hey OP... I used to be the guy who worked for insurance companies, and determined the value of every little thing in your house. The guy who would go head-to-head with those fire-truck-chasing professional loss adjusters. I may be able to help you not get screwed when filing your claim.

Our goal was to use the information you provided, and give the lowest drat value we can possibly justify for your item.

For instance, if all you say was "toaster" -- we would come up with a cheap-as-gently caress $4.88 toaster from Walmart, meant to toast one side of one piece of bread at a time. And we would do that for every thing you have ever owned. We had private master lists of the most commonly used descriptions, and what the cheapest viable replacements were. We also had wholesale pricing on almost everything out there, so really scored cheap prices to quote. To further that example:

• ⁠If you said "toaster - $25" , we would have to be within -20% of that... so, we would find something that's pretty much dead-on $20.01.

• ⁠If you said "toaster- $200" , we'd kick it back and say NEED MORE INFO, because that's a ridiculous price for a toaster (with no other information given.)

• ⁠If you said "toaster, from Walmart" , you're getting that $4.88 one.

• ⁠If you said "toaster, from Macys" , you'd be more likely to get a $25-35 one.

• ⁠If you said "toaster", and all your other kitchen appliances were Jenn Air / Kitchenaid / etc., you would probably get a matching one.

• ⁠If you said "Proctor Silex 42888 2-Slice Toaster from Wamart, $9", you just got yourself $9.

• ⁠If you said "High-end Toaster, Stainless Steel, Blue glowing power button" ... you might get $35-50 instead. We had to match all features that were listed.

I'm not telling you to lie on your claim. Not at all. That would be illegal, and could cause much bigger issues (i.e., invalidating the entire claim). But on the flip side, it's not always advantageous to tell the whole truth every time. Pay attention to those last two examples.

I remember one specific customer... he had some old, piece of poo poo projector (from mid-late 90s) that could stream a equally piece of poo poo consumer camcorder. Worth like $5 at a scrap yard. It had some oddball loving resolution it could record at, though -- and the guy strongly insisted that we replace with "Like Kind And Quality" (trigger words). Ended up being a $65k replacement, because the only camera on the market happened to be a high-end professional video camera (as in, for shooting actual movies). $65-goddam-thousand-dollars because he knew that loophole, and researched his poo poo.

Remember to list loving every -- even the most mundane loving bullshit you can think of. For example, if I was writing up the shower in my bathroom:

• ⁠Designer Shower Curtain - $35

• ⁠Matching Shower Curtain Liner for Designer Shower Curtain - $15

• ⁠Shower Curtain Rings x20 - $15

• ⁠Stainless Steel Soap Dispenser for Shower - $35

• ⁠Natural Sponge Loofah - from Whole Foods - $15

• ⁠Natural Sponge Loofah for Back - from Whole Foods - $19

• ⁠Holder for Loofahs - $20

• ⁠Bars of soap - from Lush - $12 each (qty: 4)

• ⁠Bath bomb - from Lush - $12

• ⁠High end shampoo - from salon - $40

• ⁠High end conditioner - from salon - $40

• ⁠Refining pore mask - from salon - $55

I could probably keep thinking, and bring it up to about $400 for the contents of my shower. Nothing there is "unreasonable" , nothing there is clearly out of place, nothing seems obviously fake. The prices are a little on the high-end, but the reality is, some people have expensive poo poo -- it won't actually get questioned. No claims adjuster is going to bother nitpicking over the cost of loving Lush bath bombs, when there is a 20,000 item file to go through. The adjuster has other poo poo to do, too.

Most people writing claims for a total loss wouldn't even bother with the shower (it's just some used soap and sponges..) -- and those people would be losing out on $400.

Some things require documentation & ages. If you say "tv - $2,000" -- you're getting a 32" LCD, unless you can provide it was from the last year or two w/ receipts. Hopefully you have a good paper trail from credit/debit card expenditure / product registrations / etc.

If you're missing paper trails for things that were legitimately expensive -- go through every photo you can find that was taken in your house. Any parties you may have thrown, and guests put pics up on Facebook. Maybe an Imgur photo of your cat, hiding under a coffee table you think you purchased from Restoration Hardware. Like... seriously... come up with any evidence you possibly can, for anything that could possibly be deemed expensive.

The fire-truck chasing loss adjusters are evil sons of bitches, but, they actually do provide some value. You will definitely get more money, even if they take a cut. But all they're really doing, is just nitpicking the ever-living-poo poo out of everything you possibly owned, and writing them all up "creatively" for the insurance company to process.

Sometimes people would come back to us with "updated* claims. They tried it on their own, and listed stuff like "toaster", "microwave", "tv" .. and weren't happy with what they got back. So they hired a fire-truck chaser, and re-submitted with "more information." I have absolutely seen claims go from under $7k calculated, to over $100k calculated. (It's amazing what can happen when people suddenly "remember" their entire wardrobe came from Nordstrom.)

Sirotan fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jul 11, 2021

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PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
That's a good post, especially for personal property, though we're good about keeping all our high value item receipts on our drive. I was thinking more about the house itself but I think it falls in line; we'll do a camera tour of everything just to remember, and start saving the rest of the receipts for flooring, tiles, countertops, cabinets, etc. Hopefully never needed.

Edit: also reads like the insurance company bought the items; like would the company just order me a toaster and have it delivered?

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jul 11, 2021

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

You have offsite backups for that drive, right?

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Cyrano4747 posted:

You have offsite backups for that drive, right?

I’m assuming they mean google drive.



I’ve got some gaps in my kitchen, mostly along trim and other areas. Some corners and some along the tile. Plus some larger holes. What looks best for filling these? I assume white silicone? Some pesky ant fuckers have been sneaking in.



SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

I’m assuming they mean google drive.



I’ve got some gaps in my kitchen, mostly along trim and other areas. Some corners and some along the tile. Plus some larger holes. What looks best for filling these? I assume white silicone? Some pesky ant fuckers have been sneaking in.





If ants are coming out of your walls I would try to find a better solution than sealing them into the walls. Are they carpenter ants or some other type?

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

SpartanIvy posted:

If ants are coming out of your walls I would try to find a better solution than sealing them into the walls. Are they carpenter ants or some other type?

I don’t think they’re carpenter ants. Just black ants collecting food because my 5 year old is an rear end in a top hat.

My plan is to bait them to try and wipe em out, then seal off their entry points after. I just like to buy poo poo in one sweep if possible cause if I don’t have everything on hand I forget to do step two until it’s a problem again

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
Just put some Terro traps by the area they come in.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

I don’t think they’re carpenter ants. Just black ants collecting food because my 5 year old is an rear end in a top hat.

My plan is to bait them to try and wipe em out, then seal off their entry points after. I just like to buy poo poo in one sweep if possible cause if I don’t have everything on hand I forget to do step two until it’s a problem again

Silicone is a huge pain in the rear end to work with, and is unnecessary unless it's in somewhere that get wet all the time. Your average plain white caulk is perfectly fine there, and cleans up with water.

Also yea, fix the ants first. I second the terro traps over anything else (just make sure you realize it's normal for the ants to swarm them at first.. you should be cheering them on at that point, "bring that poison back to the queen!")

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

I don’t think they’re carpenter ants. Just black ants collecting food because my 5 year old is an rear end in a top hat.

My plan is to bait them to try and wipe em out, then seal off their entry points after. I just like to buy poo poo in one sweep if possible cause if I don’t have everything on hand I forget to do step two until it’s a problem again

Make some borax ant bait and say goodbye to ants. Literally just sugar, water and borax. Cheaper than Terro traps and just as if not more effective.

My last rental had seasonal ants and that was all I could do. Had to put new bait every few months when I saw ants. That and Ortho home defense. Obviously figure out where they're coming from and try to stop them if possible. Hard part is you might even be able to clean literally everything and they'll still come in for some reason.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Verman posted:

and they'll still come in for some reason.

Usually either looking for or to escape water (depending on how much rain the area has been getting lately vs. the heat during the day).

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Usually either looking for or to escape water (depending on how much rain the area has been getting lately vs. the heat during the day).

That could be

I’m in NYC, and it’s been flood city here the last few days.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

The Terro stuff works pretty well, but the pro ant bait is: Advion https://www.domyown.com/advion-ant-bait-gel-p-932.html It's designed to be applied long term to cracks/crevices.

Good luck with the little sugar ants; they can be persistent bastards. I seem to have to fight them every year in a different spot, also probably fueled by a toddler's crumbs.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Any reason why an LED bulb, 9W, would be fine in a socket for 1.5 minutes before dimming to barely a glow, and a different LED, 6.5W, is fine? Is this socket not getting enough juice?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Johnny Truant posted:

Any reason why an LED bulb, 9W, would be fine in a socket for 1.5 minutes before dimming to barely a glow, and a different LED, 6.5W, is fine? Is this socket not getting enough juice?

One way to check, do you have another 9W LED bulb to try? Just to eliminate the specific bulb being the problem.


Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

That could be

I’m in NYC, and it’s been flood city here the last few days.

Yikes, yeah, that's probably part of it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Johnny Truant posted:

Any reason why an LED bulb, 9W, would be fine in a socket for 1.5 minutes before dimming to barely a glow, and a different LED, 6.5W, is fine? Is this socket not getting enough juice?

Bulb is bad. Remember Incandescent bulbs? Standard for those was 60 watts. That's more than 9.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

StormDrain posted:

Bulb is bad. Remember Incandescent bulbs? Standard for those was 60 watts. That's more than 9.

Important note: lots of newer fixtures are being designed for LED bulbs, and as such have way lower wattage ratings. I've seen as low as 13 watts.

I mean, with regards to regular bulbs. I know there are even lower wattage fixtures for things like nightlights and whatnot.

But that said, :10bux: that bulb won't work in any other fixture, so it's likely bad.

The Rev
Jun 24, 2008
Help me out with this one Goons - It stormed like hell today and likely into the night. While my AC was running upstairs the power went out; power was down for only ~2 minutes before it kicked back on.

Around 2 minutes later I started hearing the slow dribble of water and to my joy found that a small trickle of water was coming out of the corner of my hallway return vent to the AC (which was not running since the power was restored, if that matters). After mopping up the small amount of water, a similar trickle started coming out of my Master Bedroom return vent (which are very close to one another). After about another five minutes both vents stopped dripping water and thus far there has been no sign of additional water.

I quickly checked all rooms both up and downstairs, but no sign of any water intrusion anywhere else. My upstairs attic is split into two sections, but I went into the one with the AC unit and all seems fine there too. My gutters were cleaned last month and there appears to be no blockage. The AC has since cycled on and off several times normally, and it's still raining pretty moderately.

I'm trying to figure out if It had something to do with the loss of power while the AC was running, or if I am perhaps hosed in some other way yet to be discovered.

For what it's worth I've never seen this issue before in the 4 years I've lived here. Here's to hoping it's either a fluke or a minor issue that can easily be repaired by an HVAC company if it comes to that.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

The Rev posted:

Help me out with this one Goons - It stormed like hell today and likely into the night. While my AC was running upstairs the power went out; power was down for only ~2 minutes before it kicked back on.

Around 2 minutes later I started hearing the slow dribble of water and to my joy found that a small trickle of water was coming out of the corner of my hallway return vent to the AC (which was not running since the power was restored, if that matters). After mopping up the small amount of water, a similar trickle started coming out of my Master Bedroom return vent (which are very close to one another). After about another five minutes both vents stopped dripping water and thus far there has been no sign of additional water.

I quickly checked all rooms both up and downstairs, but no sign of any water intrusion anywhere else. My upstairs attic is split into two sections, but I went into the one with the AC unit and all seems fine there too. My gutters were cleaned last month and there appears to be no blockage. The AC has since cycled on and off several times normally, and it's still raining pretty moderately.

I'm trying to figure out if It had something to do with the loss of power while the AC was running, or if I am perhaps hosed in some other way yet to be discovered.

For what it's worth I've never seen this issue before in the 4 years I've lived here. Here's to hoping it's either a fluke or a minor issue that can easily be repaired by an HVAC company if it comes to that.

It's possible that the condensate pump wasn't able to turn on and overflowed with the power outage (I assume you have one but being in an attic maybe the pan drains by gravity?), but the AC shouldn't be generating a huge amount of condensation when it's off. It will still get some since it's cold, though. Keep an eye on it since these things can also clog, but it sounds like a temporary issue due to the power outage. You might also ask your HVAC company.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Rexxed posted:

It's possible that the condensate pump wasn't able to turn on and overflowed with the power outage (I assume you have one but being in an attic maybe the pan drains by gravity?), but the AC shouldn't be generating a huge amount of condensation when it's off. It will still get some since it's cold, though. Keep an eye on it since these things can also clog, but it sounds like a temporary issue due to the power outage. You might also ask your HVAC company.

I'd try to find the condensate pump and pour some water in it.. it's possible a bunch of crud has built up in the drain line. I can't really imagine why that would be related to the power outage though.

couldcareless
Feb 8, 2009

Spheal used Swagger!
Condensation pump have a float switch to kill AC if it's not working perhaps?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

couldcareless posted:

Condensation pump have a float switch to kill AC if it's not working perhaps?

Around here it's typically on the same circuit as the inside unit, but it it's working properly there is no way there is enough condensate to drain into the pan to even require it to pump again, never mind overflow.

If it's installed properly, which we can never count on in questions like this.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005
Original theory: The home inspector on my condo purchase was either blind, stupid, or paid off by the seller's agent.

New theory: The home inspector on my condo purchase was blind, stupid, and paid off by the seller's agent.


The poo poo he marked all ended up being quick and in some cases $0.00 repairs, while he 'missed' a problem with the stairs, a soft spot in the floor, cracks in the bathroom ceiling from incorrect type of paint in a humid environment, the water heater being rusted out and trashworthy, and that the pressurization of the entire unit is off so that opening a door anywhere in the entire place rattles all the other doors.

Definitely gonna keep this guy on speed-dial for when it's my time to sell. :v:

The Rev
Jun 24, 2008

The Rev posted:

Help me out with this one Goons - It stormed like hell today and likely into the night. While my AC was running upstairs the power went out; power was down for only ~2 minutes before it kicked back on.

Around 2 minutes later I started hearing the slow dribble of water and to my joy found that a small trickle of water was coming out of the corner of my hallway return vent to the AC (which was not running since the power was restored, if that matters). After mopping up the small amount of water, a similar trickle started coming out of my Master Bedroom return vent (which are very close to one another). After about another five minutes both vents stopped dripping water and thus far there has been no sign of additional water.

I quickly checked all rooms both up and downstairs, but no sign of any water intrusion anywhere else. My upstairs attic is split into two sections, but I went into the one with the AC unit and all seems fine there too. My gutters were cleaned last month and there appears to be no blockage. The AC has since cycled on and off several times normally, and it's still raining pretty moderately.

I'm trying to figure out if It had something to do with the loss of power while the AC was running, or if I am perhaps hosed in some other way yet to be discovered.

For what it's worth I've never seen this issue before in the 4 years I've lived here. Here's to hoping it's either a fluke or a minor issue that can easily be repaired by an HVAC company if it comes to that.

HVAC guys came over and couldn't find anything wrong with the AC after a solid 30 minutes of attic creeping. He did mention there appears to be signs of minor water intrusion close to the vents on one of the wooden beams, but not directly related to the AC. They took pity on me and didn't change me for the call, so that's a small plus. Time to call a roofer next and hope they don't laugh me off the phone with a 6 month backlog for their wait-list.

marjorie
May 4, 2014

I have a driveway question for you guys. This is how it looked about 5 years ago:


It's about the same today, maybe a little more raised at that top seam (I'd say about 1.5 inches, but I'm bad with estimating). Basically it's enough to make it a little hard to get over if you're not driving up with some speed (which is already a challenge since the driveway is fairly steep). It's also definitely a trip hazard. And it's definitely getting worse, but not at a very fast rate.

Now I know the issue is there's a tree just to the right in that photo, and the real solution is removing the tree, ripping up the driveway, and repouring. But if I'm only going to be here for the next couple of years, what would be my cheapest and easiest solution to smooth it out for a QoL improvement? It only needs to last 2-3 years, and just needs to make the gap a little less harsh. Would expandable foam work, or should I mix up some concrete? Something else? I live in the Pacific NW, so lots of rain, but (usually) mild temperature swings.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

marjorie posted:

Now I know the issue is there's a tree just to the right in that photo, and the real solution is removing the tree, ripping up the driveway, and repouring. But if I'm only going to be here for the next couple of years, what would be my cheapest and easiest solution to smooth it out for a QoL improvement? It only needs to last 2-3 years, and just needs to make the gap a little less harsh. Would expandable foam work, or should I mix up some concrete? Something else? I live in the Pacific NW, so lots of rain, but (usually) mild temperature swings.

Don't do any of those things.

Surely you've seen public sidewalks where this has happened and seen the edges between slabs ground down to remove the trip hazard. That's what you want to do here. Search for "concrete grinding contractor in <mytown>" and see what shows up. There are probably plenty of "two guys and a pickup truck" operations that will have you all set for a few hundred bucks in an afternoon.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Yup, and if you want to DIY it and have an angle grinder, get a diamond grinding cup, but be prepared to be at it awhile and def draw some chalk lines to give yourself a target.

It'll look better if you have a pro do it tho.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

GEMorris posted:

Yup, and if you want to DIY it and have an angle grinder, get a diamond grinding cup, but be prepared to be at it awhile and def draw some chalk lines to give yourself a target.

It'll look better if you have a pro do it tho.

Also get some heavy duty PPE - concrete produces a ton of dust unless you're doing it wet. You do *not* want to be breathing that poo poo in.

marjorie
May 4, 2014

See, this is why I post here; I hadn't even considered that approach! Thanks, guys, that's a way better solution. And I appreciate the diy and related safety tips; although I'll probably go the "pay a couple guys" route, I'll keep those points in mind.

Jimong5
Oct 3, 2005

If history is to change, let it change! If the world is to be destroyed, so be it! If my fate is to be destroyed... I must simply laugh!!
Grimey Drawer

Motronic posted:

Don't do any of those things.

Surely you've seen public sidewalks where this has happened and seen the edges between slabs ground down to remove the trip hazard. That's what you want to do here. Search for "concrete grinding contractor in <mytown>" and see what shows up. There are probably plenty of "two guys and a pickup truck" operations that will have you all set for a few hundred bucks in an afternoon.

Random question because my initial thought was mudjacking, is that not a good solution?

but yeah diamond cup would work well as a quick fix

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jimong5 posted:

Random question because my initial thought was mudjacking, is that not a good solution?

but yeah diamond cup would work well as a quick fix

Mudjacking could work, but it's going to be more expensive and the root cause of the issue (the tree) will continue to cause issues. Mudjacking as a more permanent fix is better for things that have erosion problems that have been fixed, but the slab damage need to be repaired now too.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Never know which thread to ask questions like this in...

Anyhow, ceiling fans. Where are the good ones sold? We're getting to the point of needing to select one for our screen porch. Looks like there are a couple lighting/fan stores around, and I'd like to make a decent purchase this time instead of whatever cheap junk is at LowesDepot (which is the rest of the fans in our house). Not sure if there's a quality, vetted online source or if I need to go to a physical store.

Also, remotes: pretty sure we asked for independent switches, and pretty sure our contractor quoted "remote controlled." I read this as a fan box wired hot, so the only control is either via pull chain or wireless doodad. Is it worth paying extra for switches? Not sure if the contractor is going to charge me or not, but seems like a fan box with zero switches is a pretty poo poo idea.

That aside, are remote controlled fans really a good idea? Only ever had 1 remote fan ages ago, it was wall mounted and it was annoying to use. I'd much rather have a switch and use the pull cord to change speed, but I'd think any of those options are better than a handheld deal that can get lost/broken/etc.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
We bought the ones at home Depot(hunter) and they were solid, but they are also remote which in don't recommend unless your can't get a switch installed for some reason; it's convenient only from bed if you're too lazy to get up, and too inconvenient every other time since you'll either turn on the light/fan switch and it won't work (because the remote was set to off) or you'll turn on the remote and it won't work because the switch is off. If you can remember to never ever turn off the switch it's ok because the remote is just mounted right next to the switch and we never take it out, but I still end up hitting the switch by reflex.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I hate stripping paint I haaaaaaate stripping paint I haaaaaaate my previous owners I haaaaaaate them :mad:

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Johnny Truant posted:

I hate stripping paint I haaaaaaate stripping paint I haaaaaaate my previous owners I haaaaaaate them :mad:

Friend, have you heard the good news about adhesive applied to masonry?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DaveSauce posted:

Never know which thread to ask questions like this in...

Anyhow, ceiling fans. Where are the good ones sold?

We have been searching for literally months. I'd love to know the answer to this question.

Whoreson Welles
Mar 4, 2015

ON TO THE NEXT PAGE!

Johnny Truant posted:

I hate stripping paint I haaaaaaate stripping paint I haaaaaaate my previous owners I haaaaaaate them :mad:

Good, good. Let it flow through you. Rage makes scraping easier.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




GEMorris posted:

Friend, have you heard the good news about adhesive applied to masonry?

:confused:

Whoreson Welles posted:

Good, good. Let it flow through you. Rage makes scraping easier.

:berninator:

Hopefully tomorrow will be the last "big" application of stripper to the cabinet doors, and I can just sand the gently caress out of the drawer fronts. Then the lower cabinetry and I can be free of this mortal coil cursed project.

There was a 1mm thickness of paint in some locations :psyduck:

I don't even know if this fucker can be salvaged, it can currently just adhere to any glove I put on, no grip necessary.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

DaveSauce posted:

Never know which thread to ask questions like this in...

Anyhow, ceiling fans. Where are the good ones sold? We're getting to the point of needing to select one for our screen porch. Looks like there are a couple lighting/fan stores around, and I'd like to make a decent purchase this time instead of whatever cheap junk is at LowesDepot (which is the rest of the fans in our house). Not sure if there's a quality, vetted online source or if I need to go to a physical store.

Also, remotes: pretty sure we asked for independent switches, and pretty sure our contractor quoted "remote controlled." I read this as a fan box wired hot, so the only control is either via pull chain or wireless doodad. Is it worth paying extra for switches? Not sure if the contractor is going to charge me or not, but seems like a fan box with zero switches is a pretty poo poo idea.

That aside, are remote controlled fans really a good idea? Only ever had 1 remote fan ages ago, it was wall mounted and it was annoying to use. I'd much rather have a switch and use the pull cord to change speed, but I'd think any of those options are better than a handheld deal that can get lost/broken/etc.

This is what we did when I moved into my current home that we built about 3 years ago.

Inside fans we bought a bunch of Hunter Contempo fans from Costco for like 99 bucks each. Our main living room has a larger 70" fan we got at Lowes, and outdoors on the patio we had the builder put in their outdoor fan, which is a SeaGull lighting model. No issues with it. It was 350 bucks, but it's been over 3 years and the fan blades haven't started drooping, and the motor is quiet, and it still works perfectly, so I'm happy with it.

I paid to have every room blocked for a ceiling fan, with dual switches. That ended up being a waste, since almost all fans these days come with a remote.

Some fans you can bypass the remote module, or bypass the remote module for just the light portion, so you could use both switches. Unless there's a pull chain though you'll need the module to control the fan speed. There are some other fans, like my living room fan, which uses a DC motor and has LED lights built in, and there's no getting around using the remote on that one.

They still make some fans that don't come with a remote, but they tend to be the older style with the 3 or 4 lights hanging down and pull chains.

The remote fans were sort of annoying at first, but we adapted pretty quickly. I bought a BOND home automation thing, and we never change the fan speed, so we just have Alexa turn the lights on/off for us.

Hunter and Harbor Breeze are going to be the big box name brand fans. There are some more expensive companies out there. Minka-Aire comes to mind.

Visiting a local lighting shop could be useful. They'll have good real world feedback on what they sell, and you'll get the service and support of a local business.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020
Probation
Can't post for 11 hours!
I decided to get fans with pull chains (two 44" Home Depot brand things), $100 each, and they've been fine. I don't regret not getting a remote, but I also don't have very high ceilings, so the pull chains are easy and not too ugly.

I say they've been fine but one has a very faint clicking noise so I've been meaning to take it down and replace it (store return). My handyman originally installed it, and I've been procrastinating. It should be easy so hopefully I don't screw it up. Most people would just live with the clicking noise or not notice it but I'm broken!

e: here ya go , you probably don't want these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-De...b02c87050244b2d

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Jul 14, 2021

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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Are the ceiling fans with the magnetic-mounted lighting fixture a gimmick or does that actually work?

Saw an ad for them being sold at Home Depot the other day but now I can't remember the name of the fan that has it. The whole thing touted some easy installation once the anchoring bracket was mounted (everything slides into place and locks without fasteners after that).

EDIT: Got an email from the home insurance company last week offering an undisclosed discount on my home insurance premium if I'll install a water detector that they'll send me free of charge. It's the Flo by Moen. Has anybody used one of those/are they worth anything/etc.?

Also where would be the most useful place to install it? The laundry room/near the water heater?

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jul 14, 2021

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