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Why is all the trim and door painting that I did 3 weeks ago still tacky and loving peeling off?
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Jul 11, 2021 02:32
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Ball Tazeman posted:Why is all the trim and door painting that I did 3 weeks ago still tacky and loving peeling off? Did you paint latex over oil? Did you properly stir the paint before using it? Did you clean and prep the surface before painting? There are about a couple dozen more ways this could happen. You'll need to give more details. The good news is that it's just paint and you can clean up and do it again.
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Jul 11, 2021 02:37
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I have no idea if the paint under it was oil but I doubt it. I just think I didn’t properly prep and clean the surface. To be fair, I’m stupid and didn’t think I needed to do anything before painting. Do I need to remove it before attempting it again? I’m so pissed at myself.
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Jul 11, 2021 02:43
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I'd vote for some kind of surface contamination that prevented it from adhering and curing properly. Is the paint consistently like that everywhere you painted or just certain areas? I see something like that fairly commonly on doors and door casings right around the handles and locksets where the surfaces get touched a lot. Oils from our hands are pretty destructive to standard latex paint, especially before it's fully cured (up to a month or so), so if those are the bad areas the surface either wasn't cleaned well first, the paint was touched/handled too much while fresh, or both. If it's everywhere it could still be surface contamination if someone has been cleaning the woodwork previously with something that leaves a residue. Latex over oil is a possibility, but the latex ought to still cure properly and it would just come off easily with a fingernail. Another possibility is if you did multiple coats without enough dry time in between, leading to the earlier coat(s) being unable to cure out properly. In any case, the answer is the same. Sand/scrape off all the gummy paint until you get to a sound surface. Clean with tsp, simple green, or another mild detergent and wipe down well with clean water. Give the old paint a good scuff sand and wipe off the sanding dust. A quick wipe down with denatured alcohol would help at this point too, if you have it handy, but isn't completely necessary. I'd do this in one area first, repaint, and give it a good 2-3 days to cure a bit to make sure you're in better shape before doing the rest. Depending on the paint you used, an upgrade may help as well. Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane or Ben Moore Advance would be my reccomendations, they're spendy but worth it imo. They both also do well directly over existing oil based paints if you thoroughly clean and scuff it first. Give at least 4-6 hours in between coats and keep peoples hands off the paint as much as possible for a couple of weeks.
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Jul 11, 2021 03:26
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Yeah I think it’s a combo of oily hand areas and not waiting long enough between coats because I’m inexperienced and didn’t realize you had to wait longer than like, 45 minutes between. Goddammit.
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Jul 11, 2021 03:32
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All I wanna say is that scraping wallpaper sucks.
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Jul 11, 2021 04:32
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just another posted:All I wanna say is that scraping wallpaper sucks. 4 rooms of my current house had two layers of wallpaper. We tried everything, nothing worked particularly well. The steamer was OK but made a big mess. Getting it scored to the bottom layer was key. Spray 409 was pretty good at tackling trouble spots. The designated wallpaper remover liquid you dilute into a sprayer is worthless.
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Jul 11, 2021 05:56
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:4 rooms of my current house had two layers Two layers?! That's nothing, I've seen 5 myself, and there are plenty of stories of 10+. Get your self a spiked roller, roll the walls hard before steaming, it really helps.
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Jul 11, 2021 12:05
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Just bought a new house and we're looking to upgrade the heating system. It's currently steam heat on a natural gas boiler with a bunch of super old radiators and a single zone. We originally thought we'd just replace the boiler with a newer, more efficient model but there are possible code issues with exhausting through the chimney in its current state that'll make a replacement around 10k. Heating guy we talked to recommended if we're looking for increased efficiency and a more reliable system going forward that we do a hot water conversion, yank the radiators (or convert if possible), move to baseboard heaters, and figure out how many zones we want. Price on that is between 18-25k depending on zones, etc. We're thinking about biting the bullet and doing it but curious if anyone has been through a conversion before and what it was like. Any gotchas? I'm planning on getting at least another quote on the work just to make sure it's not insane.
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Jul 11, 2021 14:07
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Blinkz0rz posted:Just bought a new house and we're looking to upgrade the heating system. It's currently steam heat on a natural gas boiler with a bunch of super old radiators and a single zone. We originally thought we'd just replace the boiler with a newer, more efficient model but there are possible code issues with exhausting through the chimney in its current state that'll make a replacement around 10k. Most plumbing/heating contractors don't have experience with steam or have bad experiences with steam. So it can be hard to tell sometimes whether they have really evaluated your system, see problems, and therefore are recommending tearing it out.... or if they just don't work with steam and so the answer to every steam problem is 'tear it out.' If you can no longer use your chimney for ventilation, you will be installing a power vent or direct vent system. It doesn't matter whether this new boiler produces hot water or steam - the exhaust system will work in the same way. It may be that your contractor is recommending a hot water system with a built-in direct vent, while a steam boiler would require a third-party direct vent, but they will work the same way. The reason why the radiators are super old is because they don't need to be replaced. Steam radiators are one of the very few pieces of 'antique' equipment that are worth keeping around. Steam system are also (mostly) freeze proof - if you have an extended fuel or power outage you don't have pressurized water lines in every room waiting to burst like you do with a hot water system. Your username looks familiar, I think you're in the Northeast. Call these guys and ask them to evaluate your system if you are in their territory: https://www.newenglandsteamworks.com/ If you want to do some research, this is a good resource: https://forum.heatinghelp.com/categories/strictly-steam If you aren't in NE Steamworks territory, most of the contractors listed here can discuss steam: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/ Lastly, I wouldn't switch to baseboard, I would switch to wall panel heaters. They take up less linear wall space. If you do switch, make sure your contractor is doing a real heat loss calculation to size the system, and isn't just putting eight feet of baseboard on every wall. Here is a good panel manufacturer, there are a lot of smaller vendors that your contractor will probably source from but looking at the Runtal catalog will help familiarize you with the options: https://runtalnorthamerica.com/residential-radiators/
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Jul 11, 2021 14:30
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Tezer posted:Most plumbing/heating contractors don't have experience with steam or have bad experiences with steam. So it can be hard to tell sometimes whether they have really evaluated your system, see problems, and therefore are recommending tearing it out.... or if they just don't work with steam and so the answer to every steam problem is 'tear it out.' Thanks for the reply! We are in the northeast, specifically the Boston area where there are a ton of houses that are 100+ years old and a good number are steam. Every rental I've lived in has been steam. I feel like any plumbing/heating contractor that's been in business for a reasonable amount of time has enough experience with steam to make a decent judgement simply because of how many old systems are around but that's more of a gut feeling than anything else. In terms of the chimney, we'd have to get a liner put in to use it for ventilation on a new installation and as far as I know it has no other uses (no fireplaces or anything) so my thought was to leave that alone and vent directly out of the basement regardless of whether we replace the whole system or just replace the boiler with a newer unit. I mentioned the radiators only because I know that in some cases they can be repurposed for a hot water installation but I'm not sure of the age on them or whether that's viable. In terms of preserving the current steam system, it's kind of damning that most of NE Steamworks' content is talking about how steam isn't really that bad and that it's mostly an issue of maintenance. I'd really like to avoid keeping an old system going where the number of contractors that could work on it at a given time and do quality work is dwindling. Big time thanks on the wall panel heating suggestion. The guy I spoke to talked about them as "upgrade" options from baseboard but I hadn't really considered them. Next time I talk to him I'll ask him what it would run to avoid baseboard in general and go with wall units. That said, I feel extremely out of my depth in terms of what I feel like I should know to make a good decision. I'm comfortable spending a chunk of money on this work, I just don't want the money spent to not pay off in the long run, you know? It's been miserable trying to find a contractor to call me back and we move in a few weeks so I don't know that I have the luxury of shopping around too much.
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Jul 11, 2021 16:54
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FWIW a chimney liner is just a length of stainless pipe thats shoved down the existing chimney. I have had one put in for a fireplace insert and it wasn’t particularly expensive. The brick chimney itself on a 100+ year old house has probably caused other issues due to water leaks and uneven settling so beware if you start tearing it out.
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Jul 11, 2021 17:45
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Blinkz0rz posted:Thanks for the reply! Ask your contractor how many steam systems they maintain. If the answer is close to 'none' then that is probably the root of their 'rip it out' opinion. If they maintain steam systems but just don't like the look of yours, that's different. Steam is tricky - you have a carrying fluid that is going through a phase change as part of the system. quote:In terms of the chimney, we'd have to get a liner put in to use it for ventilation on a new installation and as far as I know it has no other uses (no fireplaces or anything) so my thought was to leave that alone and vent directly out of the basement regardless of whether we replace the whole system or just replace the boiler with a newer unit. Makes sense. I like direct vent systems because they reduce the obvious ways you can introduce combustion exhaust into the home, but they do make a small bit of noise. So if your only venting location on the exterior wall is next to a deck or patio, you might want to go with a chimney liner. quote:I mentioned the radiators only because I know that in some cases they can be repurposed for a hot water installation but I'm not sure of the age on them or whether that's viable. I'm not a heating contractor fyi, I work for a general contractor. My understanding is getting a little sketchy here - I believe there are ways to convert a two pipe steam system (there are also one pipe steam systems) without repiping. However, this is tricky as the pipes may not be the ideal size, and steam works under much much much lower pressures. So any issues with your existing piping will show up as leaks under the higher water pressure. Your radiators also may not be sized right for hot water, and I think you need a bleed valve on each one that needs to be drilled into the existing radiator (my knowledge is really sketchy on that one, maybe there is a way to do it without bleeder valves). Same advice as above, if you want to go for a conversion ask your contractor how many they have done. From what I understand it's significantly trickier than just maintaining a steam system or a full replacement with a hot water system. quote:In terms of preserving the current steam system, it's kind of damning that most of NE Steamworks' content is talking about how steam isn't really that bad and that it's mostly an issue of maintenance. I'd really like to avoid keeping an old system going where the number of contractors that could work on it at a given time and do quality work is dwindling. It's only getting hotter in the Boston area during the summer. I don't know everything about your situation, but I would be thinking about spending $10k on a new steam boiler from someone who has experience with steam, and then dropping the 8-15k you save into some minisplits for cooling. if you go for new wall panels, have them stub each radiator with copper into the floor (or wall, depending on where they route their piping) and then swap to PEX. It adds a connection which adds money and a failure point, but so far I haven't seen a good exposed PEX solution (the panels sit above the baseboard). They'll sell you some plastic snap-on wraps for the PEX that look horrible.
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Jul 11, 2021 18:55
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rdb posted:FWIW a chimney liner is just a length of stainless pipe thats shoved down the existing chimney. I have had one put in for a fireplace insert and it wasn’t particularly expensive. Yeah I'm sure there's plenty of other stuff to think about with that chimney that I don't want to worry about just to update our heating system. My old landlords have a good chimney guy so that's something to put on the list for another time. Tezer posted:Ask your contractor how many steam systems they maintain. If the answer is close to 'none' then that is probably the root of their 'rip it out' opinion. If they maintain steam systems but just don't like the look of yours, that's different. Yeah, that's a good point, I'll definitely ask. However, steam being tricky feels like one of those marks against it in general. If it's tricky and only a select few contractors are good with it that kinda makes me wonder a) how available those contractors could possibly be and b) how expensive their work is in general quote:I'm not a heating contractor fyi, I work for a general contractor. My understanding is getting a little sketchy here - I believe there are ways to convert a two pipe steam system (there are also one pipe steam systems) without repiping. However, this is tricky as the pipes may not be the ideal size, and steam works under much much much lower pressures. So any issues with your existing piping will show up as leaks under the higher water pressure. Your radiators also may not be sized right for hot water, and I think you need a bleed valve on each one that needs to be drilled into the existing radiator (my knowledge is really sketchy on that one, maybe there is a way to do it without bleeder valves). Yeah, my understanding as well is that the radiators have to be a particular variety or else you're just spending a ton of money to punch return holes through just to reuse them. I'm not super attached to them so if we can replace them with smaller units that put out the same amount of heat (I know, will require a bunch of calculations) I'm into it. quote:It's only getting hotter in the Boston area during the summer. I don't know everything about your situation, but I would be thinking about spending $10k on a new steam boiler from someone who has experience with steam, and then dropping the 8-15k you save into some minisplits for cooling. We've got some nice window AC units to get us through the rest of this year and I'm planning on doing some minisplits during the winter or early next spring anyway. We ended up finding a house for much less than we were expecting to spend so we're putting the extra into this kind of home improvement anyway.
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Jul 11, 2021 21:02
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Our original 1924 basement windows need some love & attention (thanks 60 years of PO differed maintenance). I'm going to be scraping the windows, replacing some broken/missing glass panes, and re-painting. I got some Ben Moore Soft Gloss 543 exterior paint to re-paint everything with. The data sheet says that wood should be primed with Fresh Start High-Hiding All Purpose Primer (046) or Fresh Start Multi-Purpose Latex Primer (N023). Does anyone know the difference and/or which one I should grab for this use?
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Jul 11, 2021 22:53
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No direct experience with either, but looks like the High Hiding All Purpose is interior/exterior while the Multi-Purpose is interior only. Even if you're only talking about painting the interior sides I'd go with the interior/exterior option since it will likely have a higher level of mildew resistance which may come in to play in that area.
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Jul 12, 2021 00:44
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Finished the laundry room renovation and paint job. Thanks to NomNomNom for suggesting PVC trim boards for the baseboards, those worked great. There's no before picture, but basically I built the wall, drywalled it, primed and painted around the hydronic system, fixed all the holes and dings in the drywall in various spots, replaced non-gfci outlets with gfci outlets, built and installed a shelf over the sink, and replaced an old light fixture with an led I had laying around. Then for fun painted some stripes. Tape:  And finished:  The brown and yellow are colors we have elsewhere in the house. The red and orange were picked up to complete the 70s stripe gradient
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Jul 12, 2021 01:21
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Vim Fuego posted:Finished the laundry room renovation and paint job. Thanks to NomNomNom for suggesting PVC trim boards for the baseboards, those worked great. Holy poo poo that's awesome. Now you need to get a nice epoxy coated floor 
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Jul 12, 2021 01:23
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Vim Fuego posted:Finished the laundry room renovation and paint job. Thanks to NomNomNom for suggesting PVC trim boards for the baseboards, those worked great. gently caress this rules
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Jul 12, 2021 01:29
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Vim Fuego posted:Finished the laundry room renovation and paint job. Thanks to NomNomNom for suggesting PVC trim boards for the baseboards, those worked great. Ok this kicks rear end.
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Jul 12, 2021 01:51
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Vim Fuego posted:Finished the laundry room renovation and paint job. Thanks to NomNomNom for suggesting PVC trim boards for the baseboards, those worked great. Echoing everybody else, that's fuckin fly and a lot of work.
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Jul 12, 2021 02:06
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Blinkz0rz posted:Thanks for the reply! I used to own a property management company here. I can recommend you a reliable plumber/HVAC company (the one I also use at my house, with a steam system - though mine is oil until I do a conversion next year) if you'd like a second opinion.
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Jul 12, 2021 02:22
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tracecomplete posted:I used to own a property management company here. I can recommend you a reliable plumber/HVAC company (the one I also use at my house, with a steam system - though mine is oil until I do a conversion next year) if you'd like a second opinion. That would be terrific! DMs are open.
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Jul 12, 2021 02:42
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To go along with my previous question about paint, most of my basement windows have aluminum storm window frames with a screen and removable glass storm window. The aluminum frames are screwed onto the original wood frame of the windows. 1) Do these screw on frames have a name? I need 1 more of them. 2) Would it be possible to find just the storm window piece somewhere? Two of the 6 windows are missing the storm window and frame, and two of the storm windows have cracked glass Picture of the frame and screen, and of a removed storm window: http://imgur.com/a/uz4wT59
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Jul 12, 2021 04:01
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Hey gang. I'm about to do something...or very seriously considering it. I'm in a spot where I have to sell a home. But due to the wild inflation in my market, I stand to walk away with 375 to 500 k in cash. I'm going to be looking for a new spot and am contemplating buying a few acres with utilities to the property line and going with a kit home from dcstructures.com Theses are timber home kits with lumber sourced from the PNW. You basically get the whole weather proof structure complete with framing, per engineered trusses, fasteners, roof, insulation, siding, exterior paint, etc. You don't get the foundation, any MEP, fixtures, sheet rock or anything on the inside whatsoever. Looking at a few options that are around 250k for a structure.that is around 3000 SQ ft. Also they don't build it (they will GC it for a fee). But everything comes.predrilled, cut on a flat bed and an ipad. They also send the stamped drawings to your building department. What am I missing here that would make this a dumb as poo poo idea? I was a custom stair builder.for 5 years and have tools for every except tile and would sub out a fair amount of stuff. Thanks in advance.
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Jul 12, 2021 06:24
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Are you planning to GC it yourself and do you have somewhere to live for the months this would take?
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Jul 12, 2021 11:43
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Double post! Got up to some home misadventures myself this weekend. Ever since we've had the place we've caught 1-2 mice every 3 months or so, but recently one must have died somewhere in the house and inflicted a plague of flies on us and that was the final straw. I'd been waging a a low key war on the mice over the past year, gradually taking back their territory. First step was denying access to the house. 1950s split level with a block foundation, sunk about 5 feet, brick (mostly) siding. Brick exteriors commonly have weep holes:  Which I plugged up with galvanized steel mesh several months ago. And I thought I had won, but the mice were merely set back. Cue the flies, which prompted me to finally deal with the drop ceiling in our basement aka mouse superhighway. Our house has an addition from the 70s that is pretty  in many ways. There's a sunroom that was added on to the master bedroom on the back of the house; underneath there's a block wall room that extends the basement which we affectionately call the Murder Room.The Murder Room is technically the 3rd bedroom of our 3bd 2.5 ba house. When we moved in it seemed fine, but musty:  It promptly flooded on day 3 of home ownership. The seller had thrown down a plastic membrane on the vinyl floor and carpeted right over it. This created a disgusting mold soup of lovely vinyl tile glue and carpet pad foam. We stripped the floor down to the bare concrete. And that was 2 years ago, almost to the day. The murder room stayed dry after that due to some gutter and sump maintenance, and my brother in law moved in and took it over as his gaming den. So anyways cue the flies last week, we tore down the drop ceiling which rained down mouse poo poo and bird seed (like pounds of it, they must have been hoarding it for years up there). For some reason the murder room was never added to the hvac boundary of the house, the ceiling was instead insulated. We tore out all the mouse shitpiss soaked fiberglass too, leaving us with this:  Found 2 mouse skeletons plus a leg. And finally found what I hope is the last secret entrance, the corner of the addition:  Enhance:  Enhance!  Sprayed foamed it up with Great Stuff Pest Block. (ignore the janky deck also built by the PO, it deserves its own post) Also uncovered this gem: 
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Jul 12, 2021 12:10
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Getting a new floor fitted, day 1 the old tiles in the kitchen are lifted and uh oh they were laid directly onto another set of tiles which are probably on earth with no damp course and there's water under them, so it looks like we've got a leaky appliance! My money is on the washing machine drainage hose but now we've got to pull it out and see, and lay a proper damp course layer which is going to take an extra day. This whole kitchen was 100% installed by someone that either cut corners or by an owner that didn't want to pay any more than the bare minimum to get it in. Rather than actually lay a proper base for what they were doing they just tiled the visible area (leaving the old bare tiles under the units) and in one place, obviously hosed up their measurements and cut a chunk out of the unit to fit round a radiator valve instead of just....moving or changing the valve.
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Jul 12, 2021 12:23
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Vim Fuego posted:
Getting a real Magnum P.I. Vibe. Sweet!
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Jul 12, 2021 14:34
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NomNomNom posted:Are you planning to GC it yourself and do you have somewhere to live for the months this would take? I can GC it myself as owner builder, or I can try and find a third party or have the kit co do it. I'm leaning toward doing it myself, just because it's rather spend their cut on the house, and just subbing out probably plumbing, mechanical install, concrete, roofing, sheetrock and any internal stone/masonry. I do have a pretty new 30 ft. RV...tow trailer that would be fine to live in on the property. If so, I'd figure out some temp 30 amp service hook ups and water at least. If also not a sewer connection or do a septic system first if it's needed (haven't settled on a property yet)
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Jul 12, 2021 16:25
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Go down to whatever you have in the way of a township and find out what, if any, permits need to be pulled and whether or not there will be any zoning issues.
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Jul 12, 2021 16:28
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Steam chat: I had a plumber from a local place I trust to look at my water heater, and mentioned I wanted to replace my steam boiler with a combi-boiler. The same company also does HVAC, and he said new steam systems come with a bunch of electronics ("$5000 worth") that break all the time and require a ton of maintenance. So he recommended converting to hot water as well if I was going to replace the boiler. I really like our 112 year old radiators and the heat they put off so I'd really rather keep it as steam so I need to learn some more. And btw this is in Minnesota so we know cold.
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Jul 12, 2021 16:44
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Basic Poster posted:I can GC it myself as owner builder, or I can try and find a third party or have the kit co do it. You may have said this and in any case I mean no disrespect, but…do you have another job that you need to spend time at? Do you have any experience acting as a GC? Putting together a pre-fab may be somewhat simpler than renovating an existing home or even building one from plans, but it’s pretty time consuming. Don’t forget builder’s risk and getting the right paperwork in order for your subs.
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Jul 12, 2021 18:01
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Motronic posted:This isn't great, and it shock your hand from the static electricity when the vacuum is hooked up (lol - I wear a rubber glove) but it's cheap and it works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KL4N25V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Motronic, my wife said to tell you thanks for the recommendation. I just used it for the first time last night and THIS THING IS AMAZING. If you are faced with sanding drywall buy it. Absolutely worth it. I got mine direct from the wen company off ebay. It is so fast and there is so little dust. The manual is also good for a laugh quote:Thanks for purchasing the WEN Drywall Sander! This handheld drywall sander is ideal for detailed sanding, givingyou greater intimacy with your drywall. but if by "greater intimacy with your drywall" they mean effective and quick sanding with like, 1% of the normal amount of dust, then yeah it gave me greater intimacy with my drywall. The repeated static shocks are kind of disconcerting but the glove works. And jesus christ it is so much better than hand sanding, pole sanding, or using an electric sander without vacuum collection. PainterofCrap posted:Getting a real Magnum P.I. Vibe. Sweet! devicenull posted:Holy poo poo that's awesome. Now you need to get a nice epoxy coated floor SpartanIvy posted:gently caress this rules Enos Cabell posted:Ok this kicks rear end. Johnny Truant posted:Echoing everybody else, that's fuckin fly and a lot of work. Thanks for all the compliments on the stripes! It was a few hours of taping for sure. The tape was Scotch Delicate Surface Painter’s Tape 2080. The purple stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPPIL0 Also one valuable trick for good tape stripes on lightly textured walls is after you put the tape up paint over the edges of the tape with your background color. This seals the edges to the wall and means that any bleed under that happens will be the background color. So when you put the color coat on it actually stays in between the lines. In my case I painted the edges with the white paint. I was really happy with the tape's performance. I didn't have any points where it pulled the paint up with it, which is pretty extraordinary in my experience.
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Jul 12, 2021 19:46
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Vim Fuego posted:Motronic, my wife said to tell you thanks for the recommendation. I just used it for the first time last night and THIS THING IS AMAZING. If you are faced with sanding drywall buy it. Absolutely worth it. I got mine direct from the wen company off ebay. It is so fast and there is so little dust. Glad it worked out for you. I'm sure you've found you have to be very careful about keeping it flat. While that's the case with any of these types of sanders, that fact that this one's lowest setting is more like what a "real" one would consider medium-high makes it extra important.
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Jul 12, 2021 20:17
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Is this an acceptable amount of damp to contemplate finishing a murder room? There's a sump pump and pit located in this room, only operates during heavy rain. To my knowledge there is no French drain.  It's hard to tell, but the concrete in this corner is stained but not actually wet. There has never been standing water. Paper or cardboard placed in the corner will wick moisture up and get soggy after a few days, but a paper towel pressed in won't pick up anything. The damp patch doesn't seem to grow after heavy rain (rain fall has been pretty average recently). I'm considering laying some Dricore OSB panels on the concrete and insulating/framkng out the walls on top of that.
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Jul 12, 2021 20:29
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Phil Moscowitz posted:You may have said this and in any case I mean no disrespect, but…do you have another job that you need to spend time at? Thank you for this. I didn't even know builders risk was a thing. This would be in Washington state and probably in county jurisdiction rather than a city of. I'm sure there are plenty of permits to get for everything regardless. At least the structure comes pre engineered. I'd probably pay the kit company to frame it and put the trusses up top. Also interested if you think that kit company looks legit / semi decent. I do not have GC experience but have done time in the trades and have some close GC friends who would at least advise for less than a full GC cost My job is 100 remote and I'm a sole contributor. I usually spend about half my week doing make work because my deliverables are pretty easy for me.
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Jul 12, 2021 21:17
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We noticed recently that the house sometimes smells like poop. Today my partner thinks he traced it to the washer drain that overflows when we do laundry. He dumped a bit of bleach and water down it. In addition we have 2 floor drains and a shower and toilet drain not being used in the basement. The toilet drain has dried up in the past couple months and my dad put a cap on it. I don’t really notice it smelling poopy in the basement but definitely will catch some poo poo smell when I come in the front door from time to time.
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Jul 12, 2021 22:58
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Ball Tazeman posted:We noticed recently that the house sometimes smells like poop. Today my partner thinks he traced it to the washer drain that overflows when we do laundry. He dumped a bit of bleach and water down it. In addition we have 2 floor drains and a shower and toilet drain not being used in the basement. The toilet drain has dried up in the past couple months and my dad put a cap on it. I don’t really notice it smelling poopy in the basement but definitely will catch some poo poo smell when I come in the front door from time to time. I mean, number 1 problem here is an overflowing washer drain. That needs to be addressed and make sure it has a proper trap. The drains that are not always in use any may dry out can be handled in a few ways. You can periodically dump some water in them or for a longer term solution you can put some shelf-stable but sanitary sewer system safe oil in them. Something like mineral oil. I really wouldn't suggest capping an otherwise working floor drain. It's there for a reason and you may not be there to uncap it when it's needed.
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Jul 12, 2021 23:03
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| # ? May 19, 2024 14:23 |
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Ball Tazeman posted:We noticed recently that the house sometimes smells like poop. Today my partner thinks he traced it to the washer drain that overflows when we do laundry. He dumped a bit of bleach and water down it. In addition we have 2 floor drains and a shower and toilet drain not being used in the basement. The toilet drain has dried up in the past couple months and my dad put a cap on it. I don’t really notice it smelling poopy in the basement but definitely will catch some poo poo smell when I come in the front door from time to time. Do you have a septic tank? Has it been emptied?
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Jul 12, 2021 23:45
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