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Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

Ohthehugemanatee posted:

What's the go to matte varnish these days? I can't find testors anywhere, and the bottle of Vallejo Mecha Matte I've been using as brush on goes through my airbrush with the ease of Elmer's glue so nope on that.

I'll take anything acrylic I can put through an airbrush or anything out of a rattle can that won't mess up colors or turn things shiny.

I think Vallejo's varnishes are meant to be thinned like any paint. So I aim for the same consistency and it works just fine.

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Ohthehugemanatee
Oct 18, 2005

Furism posted:

I think Vallejo's varnishes are meant to be thinned like any paint. So I aim for the same consistency and it works just fine.

I did try that. I don't know if it's an old bottle or a batch issue but it gums up within seconds. I've run into other people with similar issues, some of whom fixed it by trying a different bottle so I bet I just have an old bottle or something. I'd just rather try something else than buy a second bottle and hope things work better.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




I've been using the Vallejo matte varnish unthinned in my Badger Patriot with no issues.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

mllaneza posted:

I've been using the Vallejo matte varnish unthinned in my Badger Patriot with no issues.

How is that compared to Liquitex or Dulcote?

I've been using Liquitex, but it is super matte. Over black it looks like the mini is dusty. I've had to mix it with gloss varnish to get a finish I'm happy with. Dulcote has been my favorite as far as finish goes, but since it's in a rattlecan I haven't been using it as I'd rather use my airbrush.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Skails posted:

Painted up this 1984 citadel skeleton over the weekend.







This guy is pre-slotta and has his name inscribed on the integral lead base. It’s fun so I left it showing through the sand.



At some point I'd really love to watch a showcase of all the old spooky boys you've done so far.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
Painted an Iron Fist to go with his buddy Luke Cage:



Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Ohthehugemanatee posted:

What's the go to matte varnish these days? I can't find testors anywhere, and the bottle of Vallejo Mecha Matte I've been using as brush on goes through my airbrush with the ease of Elmer's glue so nope on that.

I'll take anything acrylic I can put through an airbrush or anything out of a rattle can that won't mess up colors or turn things shiny.

Rustoleum Dead Flat is the exact same paint as Testors Dullcote, and it's cheaper

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Universal-11-oz-All-Surface-Dead-Flat-Clear-Topcoat-Spray-Paint-342482/307244776

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

mllaneza posted:

I've been using the Vallejo matte varnish unthinned in my Badger Patriot with no issues.

Really? The one I have is super thick, there's no way it could go through my 0.3mm airbrush. Is yours more liquid, or do you increase the PSI or something?

Ohthehugemanatee
Oct 18, 2005

Awesome, thanks.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Furism posted:

Really? The one I have is super thick, there's no way it could go through my 0.3mm airbrush. Is yours more liquid, or do you increase the PSI or something?

Vallejo has a few varnishes. Their standard polyurethane (I think) is pretty good and thick, the Mecha Matte is intended to be able to be out through and airbrush without anything else (the Mecha line seems to have a bit more trouble going through my airbrush than Model Air, but it works fine for me).

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Furism posted:

Really? The one I have is super thick, there's no way it could go through my 0.3mm airbrush. Is yours more liquid, or do you increase the PSI or something?

I'm running it at 16-18 psi. I wouldn't call it super thick, maybe just a little more viscous than a Model Air paint.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Ohthehugemanatee posted:

I did try that. I don't know if it's an old bottle or a batch issue but it gums up within seconds. I've run into other people with similar issues, some of whom fixed it by trying a different bottle so I bet I just have an old bottle or something. I'd just rather try something else than buy a second bottle and hope things work better.

I had this exact same problem recently. Bought a new (smaller) bottle of Mecha Matte and it works fine, I think the stuff just has a limited shelf-life, so going forward I'm only buying it in small bottles.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Finished a combat squad of five very yelly Assault Intercesors today.







TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
re: varnish chat

Big fan of Vallejo Mecha varnish, gloss, matt, and satin have all been great for me out of a Badger 105.

.5mm needle, though. I float between 28-35 PSI and keep my distance.

16-18 PSI feels like you'd have to be pretty close, but hey, whatever works.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
Yea, when I bought a new airbrush I put the .5 needle back into my old one and use that for varnish and priming. Even with the .3 though I never had an issue with Mecha Matte, my bottle is several years old and still seems exactly like when I bought it.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


vallejo premium airbrush varnish is also good in my experience

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
Got this guys all based up now and am officially sick of looking at him. Since this more of a painting hobby rather than a gaming hobby I'm going to see if anyone at the local gaming store is interested in trading for an unpainted model for a new project.

Does anyone have experience doing this? Also shout out to the liquitex inks suggestion. Even if I need to mix to make up a colour not it the 6 pack the volume/value ratio is drat good. I'm eyeing up the metallic line next.

chin up everything sucks
Jan 29, 2012

I'm putting together a new display case for my miniatures - anyone have any suggestions for lighting options that will show paint jobs off well, without messing with the color? Most LED strips seem to either be very blue or very yellow, I'm not finding any good sources of "daylight" LEDs that would be good for mounting in a display case.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

AndyElusive posted:

Finished a combat squad of five very yelly Assault Intercesors today.




That's a really badass-looking squad, loving the faces!

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Thanks!! I really appreciate that.

There's such a high ceiling when it comes to painting tiny faces on small men that I never really feel the ones I do are actually any good, but I'm doing my best to learn and get better!

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Don't be hard on yourself, those are drat good!

I like the sort of Mike Mignola/Darkest Dungeon look of leaving the eyes dark, it works really well with the rest of the shading. And it's grimdark as heck.

KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 11:16 on Jul 13, 2021

Fritzler
Sep 5, 2007


Wanted to start painting some D&D minis. I understand how to make a wet palette in tupperware, but what I'm not sure about - do you still need to add water to thin down the paints? Or does the water in the in the palette functionally do that?

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Fritzler posted:

Wanted to start painting some D&D minis. I understand how to make a wet palette in tupperware, but what I'm not sure about - do you still need to add water to thin down the paints? Or does the water in the in the palette functionally do that?

You should still add a bit of water, but you need less so. Often it's kind of enough to rinse the brush, dry off most of the water on a bit of paper and have it slightly wet when picking up paint from the palette. How much water depends on brand of paint and what you're painting, so the unfortunate answer is that it's something you'll learn by experience. You don't want it to be too runny.

The wet palette will most of all help the paint to not start to dry. If you have a dry palette you'll need to add water to all of the paint constantly to keep it from drying up.

Fritzler
Sep 5, 2007


lilljonas posted:

You should still add a bit of water, but you need less so. Often it's kind of enough to rinse the brush, dry off most of the water on a bit of paper and have it slightly wet when picking up paint from the palette. How much water depends on brand of paint and what you're painting, so the unfortunate answer is that it's something you'll learn by experience. You don't want it to be too runny.

The wet palette will most of all help the paint to not start to dry. If you have a dry palette you'll need to add water to all of the paint constantly to keep it from drying up.
Thank you! That makes a lot of sense.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

What are some good brushes that are also dirt cheap?

I have some 6 feet under cost brushes and. well, I am realizing it's getting in my way of doing what I want, but, I also am not terribly interested in spending $40 on a single brush. Maybe $40 for a set of brushes, sure. $40 for a single brush seems terribly overpriced.

Any suggestions? I hear good things about 8404 brushes and to just to get #2 and #1 and cheap ones for the rest of it.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



GreenBuckanneer posted:

What are some good brushes that are also dirt cheap?

I have some 6 feet under cost brushes and. well, I am realizing it's getting in my way of doing what I want, but, I also am not terribly interested in spending $40 on a single brush. Maybe $40 for a set of brushes, sure. $40 for a single brush seems terribly overpriced.

Any suggestions? I hear good things about 8404 brushes and to just to get #2 and #1 and cheap ones for the rest of it.

https://windriverarts.com/Brushes.htm#Pure_Red_Sable

You want the series 33. Here's where they come from but there's a ban on importing kolinsky sable.

https://www.rosemaryandco.com/pure-kolinsky-pointed

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

AndyElusive posted:

Finished a combat squad of five very yelly Assault Intercesors today.




The guy on the left isn’t yelly. He's lovely about the noise the other jerks are making. “Can’t we just cleanse the Xeno scourge quietly for once. By the Emperor”

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Beffer posted:

The guy on the left isn’t yelly. He's lovely about the noise the other jerks are making. “Can’t we just cleanse the Xeno scourge quietly for once. By the Emperor”

It's the typical insecure guy in the choir, faintly mouthing along as the rest are belting out at max volume. Like the Mr. Bean in church sketch.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Cat Face Joe posted:

https://windriverarts.com/Brushes.htm#Pure_Red_Sable

You want the series 33. Here's where they come from but there's a ban on importing kolinsky sable.

https://www.rosemaryandco.com/pure-kolinsky-pointed

That looks good although, I don't know how I'm going to get it, if there's a ban. I'll look around.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


Cat Face Joe posted:

https://windriverarts.com/Brushes.htm#Pure_Red_Sable

You want the series 33. Here's where they come from but there's a ban on importing kolinsky sable.

https://www.rosemaryandco.com/pure-kolinsky-pointed

Are you saying I can potentially paint with illegal brushes?

Ohthehugemanatee
Oct 18, 2005

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What are some good brushes that are also dirt cheap?

I have some 6 feet under cost brushes and. well, I am realizing it's getting in my way of doing what I want, but, I also am not terribly interested in spending $40 on a single brush. Maybe $40 for a set of brushes, sure. $40 for a single brush seems terribly overpriced.

Any suggestions? I hear good things about 8404 brushes and to just to get #2 and #1 and cheap ones for the rest of it.

Blick sells a masterstroke red sable series that are great for $6. They're W&N knockoffs basically. Here they are.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


just to go back to the OP of the question, you do not by any means need a #1 and a #2 brush. a good #2 or even #3 brush with a sharp tip can paint just as fine detail as a smaller brush. you could maybe pick up a 0 or 00 for the specific case of having to paint something in a really tight squeeze like getting to a space marine’s chest eagle behind their gun or something. but imo buying a 1 and a 2 is going to leave you with a 1 you have no use for

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



GreenBuckanneer posted:

That looks good although, I don't know how I'm going to get it, if there's a ban. I'll look around.

I guess I wasn't clear. Wind River is in the US and you can buy from them. I was just providing the source to show that R&Co is a real brand that people use.

Wrr posted:

Are you saying I can potentially paint with illegal brushes?

I currently do :madmax:

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Using illegal brushes sounds like the smoking in church of hobby stuff

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Thinking about coming back after a few years off, if I can clear space and salvage my old supplies and minis. If I do, resuming an old Marine project but with an updated color scheme. Always wondered how DE-style Incubi Darkness scheme would look on Marine armor, but drawing a blank on what's a good accent color so I'm not doing one color for the entire armor suit. Something for the shoulder insets and the faceplate. Purple? Dark red? My old DE army used a nonstandard scheme in red instead, so I never did get to experiment with it there.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


orange is the complementary colour to teal, or you could split the difference and go with red trim and yellow gold for any metallic bits

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

jesus WEP posted:

orange is the complementary colour to teal, or you could split the difference and go with red trim and yellow gold for any metallic bits

Red and gold does seem solid, I've seen Mephiston or something similar used as an accent on DE and it looked nice. Maybe red lens color on a grey/white faceplate for that part? I'd be a bit worried about the gold being overpoweringly bright compared to the other muted base colors, but that may just come down to how it gets painted. Things to think about, I guess. All relies on me even being able to salvage anything and get set back up, of course; used to have a dedicated hobby desk and all that, but moving put a dent in it and there's not enough space for that any more.

Ah well. That's my own thing to deal with.

TurdBurgles
Sep 17, 2007

I AM WHITE AND PLAY NA FLUTE ON TRIBAL LANDS WITH NO GUILT.
Are there any good synthetic or non sable brushes? I heard GW has a new line but haven't heard any reports on how they are.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




TurdBurgles posted:

Are there any good synthetic or non sable brushes? I heard GW has a new line but haven't heard any reports on how they are.

http://www.mengelminiatures.com/2021/05/review-games-workshop-stc-paint-brushes.html
Mengel did a review of them around the time they came out. Final verdict was that they weren't that bad.

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I hear the monument hobbies synthetics are pretty good. I have some ZEM golden taklon brushes that have served me well for basecoats and larger jobs.

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