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ryanrs posted:Yes, this is useful to me. I am primarily concerned about terrain within 2-5 car lengths of me. On anything technical I end up spending all my time puttering around in 1st gear at 5-10 mph. Yea, BD got you covered! (their warranty is top drat notch too)  https://www.bajadesigns.com/Science-of-Lighting/Lighting-Zones.asp Here's a mod to my bike I designed and 3d printed utilizing their spot(highbeam) and driving(lowbeam) patterns. The forced cooling came as a part of the second revision to avoid thermal throttling the modules. https://imgur.com/a/Gogm4iX
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Jul 14, 2021 18:50
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OK, I removed the antenna and added the hitch receiver: StormDrain, thanks so much for making this picture, seriously. I am sending it to the shop now, then I'll follow up with a phone call to talk $$$.
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Jul 14, 2021 20:15
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No problem it was just a fun doodle! Thanks!
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Jul 14, 2021 20:27
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Let's talk coatings! All bumpers seem to be powder coated black. Which is fine, I suppose. But it's not really keeping with the Sienna's color scheme. So I'm going to see how much it will cost to get it hot dip galvanized, for that sweet zinc spangle. The only thing giving me pause is that I hardly ever see aftermarket truck stuff hot dipped. Is there a reason for that? Is there some downside other than cost? fake edit: Oh poo poo, modern low-lead galvanizing lines don't make nice spangle? The Spangle on Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Sheet (PDF) Guess we're gonna see how much this fab shop knows about zinc chemistry and how well they know their local metal platers! This is gonna be interesting.
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Jul 15, 2021 04:55
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This is actually something I've got some experience with.
If there is a V&S Galvanizing near you, I was happy with their quality but cannot guarantee you get the same deal obviously. They gave me paperwork and everything, so it wasn't a back door deal, but don't be surprised if they don't feel like bending the rules for you. Edit: info from the zinc nerds https://galvanizeit.org/uploads/publications/Design_Guide_Galvanized_Steel_Structures.pdf https://galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/venting-and-drainage http://gbgal.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/GB-Galvanizing-Design-Guide-for-Hot-Dip-Galvanizing.pdf https://www.corbecgalv.com/eg/publications/Design_Guide_Galvanized_Steel_Structures.pdf https://www.aisc.org/globalassets/why-steel/galvanizing-structual-steel.pdf Probably a fair bit of duplicate info in these... Read or skim as you see fit. Can't remember which one I actually read in detail. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 05:25
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Hmm, more complicated than I thought. Might not be worth it. They've already thrown out a budget feeler at $2400, and that's probably without lights and wiring. Califabrication also does general steel fabrication, not just auto. They do gates, railings, and industrial work. So I'm hoping they have a relationship with some local platers. I'll see what they think of galvanizing it, and if they don't want to or are meh, then maybe powder coat gray.
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Jul 15, 2021 05:36
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That seems a ludicrous price honestly.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:03
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Is it? None of this is bolt on, it all needs to be designed, cut, welded. It's a couple skilled people working on this project for a day or two. The owner of the shop is going to be sitting in front of his CAD workstation, scrutinizing StormDrain's pic and figuring out the tubing lengths, ha ha. Serious question: how much should that cost? This is in Sacramento, CA.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:31
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If you paint the bumper, you can easily respray it after hitting And yeah, that price is high. Way high. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 06:43
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I mean, my initial thought was that it was crazy high but the NRE costs are probably most of that. It's not like they are going to be able to reuse that design or sell it to anyone else. When I design stuff for people I definitely take into account whether I think I can sell more of them when I price the first article, and whether they want exclusive rights to the design. It might be a bit high but it has the right number of digits. I personally hate powdercoat since it can't be patched like spray paint, but in the land of no rust I can see powdercoat being ok, with spray paint used on scratches after. Here powdercoat turns into a bubbly rust-magnet mess the second it gets breached and water and rust get under it.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:55
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Spending real $$$ to pay professional people for professional work is one of the reasons this isn't some horrible grover thread. When I had my skid plates made, I spent 10 hours at Califabrication watching them work. They are 3 hours from me, so they did the job while I waited (8am - 6:30pm). That job cost $1600, which I think it was fair. It was 2-4 guys working all day, plus the cost of the steel, which is significant, and shop costs. I don't think they overcharged me, and I was there watching them work the whole time. I think the problem is that what I want is just expensive, perhaps stupidly so given it's a 21 year old minivan. But that's why I wanted every feature reproduced in StormDrain's drawing. That's why I'm emailing the shop about $$$ before we've even talked on the phone. That's why I'm asking them (and you) about light brands, paint options, etc. I'm going into this with my eyes open, with a detailed plan and a specific budget. That's why this project is going to be completed promptly and without drama (probably).
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Jul 15, 2021 07:38
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  Ahahahaha, I'm going to make an offset license plate frame / washer fluid protector.
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Jul 15, 2021 08:25
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ryanrs posted:I think the problem is that what I want is just expensive, perhaps stupidly so given it's a 21 year old minivan. Peak AI. Nothin’ but love 
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Jul 15, 2021 11:21
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Ya I like this thread because you have big dreams and back it up, and quickly.
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Jul 15, 2021 16:16
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Get the new bumper color matched to the rest of the van.
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Jul 15, 2021 16:56
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Ignore my cheap-rear end distractions, I love the project.
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Jul 15, 2021 18:27
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StormDrain posted:Ya I like this thread because you have big dreams and back it up, and quickly. cakesmith handyman posted:Ignore my cheap-rear end distractions, I love the project.
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Jul 15, 2021 18:48
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I'm sure business overhead costs play a role as well where you are. Just keep doing ridiculous poo poo to your van, can't wait to see what the bumper looks like 
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Jul 15, 2021 18:54
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Thumposaurus posted:Get the new bumper color matched to the rest of the van. That's my thinking, maybe color match it to the gray plastic panels along the bottom of the doors. In other news, my brake pliers should finally arrive today, so hopefully I get some brake lines installed this weekend. Then I just need to bleed the system and reassemble the dash. I'm going to try to nail down the lighting plans next week, so I can install some switches before putting the dash back together. I'm guessing there's some kind of power distribution / relay board that goes in the engine bay, and the dash switches just supply low current +12V to turn on the relays. If you have strong feelings on dash switches and relays, link 'em.
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Jul 15, 2021 22:56
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Most modern LED lighting it doesn't really matter, you get way more light per amp. That being said, run your relays with the coil ground side switched, ideally - positive side of coil to 12v fused, negative side to ground via your control switch. That way the worst case is a wire gets pinched and turns the relay on instead of shorting 12 to ground and burning a fuse or wire. This is a pretty nice better than OEM grade fuse panel and the price isn't super bad. You can get import knockoffs on Amazon for less but this is what I'd trust. https://m.delcity.net/store/ISO-280-Mini-Relay---Bussed-Inputs/p_803800.h_803801.r_IF1003?mkwid=&crid=521456903971
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Jul 15, 2021 23:07
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Online LED Store wiring I really liked the relay box I got from these guys, it came out very clean and professional looking to me. I haven't used their switch panels or anything (yet) and I wouldn't hesitate to try. I like the one kastein linked too, having them bussed is nicer than the one I linked. Also that's a great note on switching the ground. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 23:16
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Is switched ground something that is common in the automotive world? Do most aftermarket installers wire their switches that way? Do the car OEMs? I see the utility of wiring it that way, but I want to understand the context. If this is one weird goon trick, then maybe I'll pass to prevent future confusion.
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Jul 15, 2021 23:37
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Absolutely it is. Your door open switch to turn on the interior lights and your horn both operate that way. You can just run a single wire to your switch and ground it locally. Makes it very simple.
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Jul 15, 2021 23:39
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Excellent! Then I'll wire it that way.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:09
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It used to be a lot less common but for the last 25 years or so it's been much more common, yes. Mostly because electrical engineers (hi) really prefer using an N channel MOSFET output in the various ECMs in a car and the easiest way to implement those is as a ground side switch. I've actually had to temporarily add several banks of relays to my J10 Honcho to convert the 70s factory high side switch wiring to ground side switch triggers to run the 03 GM PDC I'm using as a relay panel, because it's designed to use all ground side switching so the factory BCM can override relay drives from the operator into the on state.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:14
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kastein posted:I personally hate powdercoat since it can't be patched like spray paint, but in the land of no rust I can see powdercoat being ok, with spray paint used on scratches after. Here powdercoat turns into a bubbly rust-magnet mess the second it gets breached and water and rust get under it. I've been thinking about this point you made. Powder coating might be a total disaster on the thin perforated metal radiator guard. That's gotta be stainless or galvanized, which is easy if you buy perforated metal sheet. But they can't cut their own out of mild steel on their cnc plasma cutter and then powder coat it. That approach probably won't work well.
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Jul 16, 2021 05:58
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ryanrs posted:I've been thinking about this point you made. Powder coating might be a total disaster on the thin perforated metal radiator guard. That's gotta be stainless or galvanized, which is easy if you buy perforated metal sheet. But they can't cut their own out of mild steel on their cnc plasma cutter and then powder coat it. That approach probably won't work well.
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Jul 16, 2021 07:56
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Cutting that out of sheet will take a comical amount of time anyways won't it? unless you absolutely must have a certain pattern that's definitely better bought in premade sheets and cut to shape.
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Jul 16, 2021 10:09
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Stainless perforated sheet laser cut to shape with mounting tabs on the bars to bolt it to, then you can remove/replace easily if you ever smash it in or need access behind.
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Jul 16, 2021 11:44
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ryanrs posted:I sketched some nifty aluminum parts to hold a quick release pin so I can mechanically lock out the brake levers. This seems prudent for road use, and will also look cool, esp when anodized bright blue. Are these flat, or is there a third axis bend as well as the kink on a 2d axis? How thick is this aluminum? Ballpark me on the size of these (it's tough to tell), because, even with a dxf (prototrak life, whattup) I could bang these out pretty quickly in down time here at work. Anodizing is something I've played around with- I think we even have Caswell Blue dye on hand already, but without knowing the size, I can't commit to the anodizing as our benchtop power supplies are rather woefully underpowered for larger stuff. Fwiw, I haven't had great luck getting a 'professional' looking anodized finish other than black. Got a sharpie?
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Jul 16, 2021 15:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:Stainless perforated sheet laser cut to shape with mounting tabs on the bars to bolt it to, then you can remove/replace easily if you ever smash it in or need access behind. Cut in a pattern of little minivan silhouettes in alternating directions. Please do this
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Jul 16, 2021 15:55
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glyph posted:Are these flat, or is there a third axis bend as well as the kink on a 2d axis? How thick is this aluminum? Ballpark me on the size of these (it's tough to tell), because, even with a dxf (prototrak life, whattup) I could bang these out pretty quickly in down time here at work. I appreciate the offer, really, but it was pretty over-designed for what it needed to do. I am just going to 3D print a weird shape that will fit into the lever mechanism and block movement. For reference, the arms were flat, 150 x 65(?) x 12mm. But yeah, don't make them. They won't work with the current mounting plate design, which is getting committed to metal tomorrow. kastein posted:Cutting that out of sheet will take a comical amount of time anyways won't it? unless you absolutely must have a certain pattern that's definitely better bought in premade sheets and cut to shape. Agreed. But I know they love their cnc plasma cutter and they have acres of thin sheet metal on hand for templates and test fits, so I think I'd better mention it.
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Jul 16, 2021 18:07
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I'm sure business overhead costs play a role as well where you are. Just seconding this. FWIW, on lights I have some baja designs stuff for my motorcycle that I used to race offroad at night and it's fantastic. Expensive, but I personally think it's impossible to have too much light at night if you're doing something sketchy. You can always get by with less light but it's one of those quality of life things that I really appreciate. Also, you know, safety if you're going fast. e: I also bought some knock offs from ali express that were just fine and about 1/8th the price. builds character fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jul 16, 2021 |
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Jul 16, 2021 19:18
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ryanrs posted:Agreed. But I know they love their cnc plasma cutter and they have acres of thin sheet metal on hand for templates and test fits, so I think I'd better mention it.  
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Jul 16, 2021 21:27
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Had a little freetime to help with the project. Using StormDrain's photoshop.  I added a tiedown point that uses the original towhook to help avoid twisting the bumper during winching. there's two extra tubes that reinforce the receiver hitch. There's also a lower spar that protects the condensor/radiator/lower cradle. Bent the skid plate to go under that as first line protection for that spar. The support bars that cover the washer bottle can be thrown either at the lower tie in if the welder can pull that off, if not, its fine to move it just above it.
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Jul 16, 2021 23:52
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I'm sure business overhead costs play a role as well where you are. I think they were the fifth shop I talked to. I didn't start out calling shops 3 hours away, they were just the closest! No one in the Bay Area wanted to do crazy poo poo to a 20 year old Sienna when they could be printing money installing bolt-on lift kits and rock sliders. Krakkles posted:Seriously, consider louvers. You can get decent airflow and decent protection together, and they look cool. I notice your louvered surface is perpendicular to the airflow. Since my front bumper will overhang the radiator, the louvers should open upwards, I think? Will that still look cool? cursedshitbox posted:I added a tiedown point that uses the original towhook to help avoid twisting the bumper during winching. there's two extra tubes that reinforce the receiver hitch. There's also a lower spar that protects the condensor/radiator/lower cradle. Bent the skid plate to go under that as first line protection for that spar. Unless there's a really good reason, my intention is to let the fabrication shop handle the structural design. They have plenty of experience designing bumpers (and tube chassis, etc). That said, I notice you placed the receiver significantly higher than the bumper mounts. Does it need to be that high for winching? I think in situations where my nose is buried in a ditch, I'll usually be winching from the back.
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Jul 17, 2021 00:37
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No, the ideal mounting place for the receiver is inline with the bumper attachment points otherwise a torque gets placed on the bumper and its mounts. Specifically was building on Stormdrains sketches. I'd run a tube across the middle of the main mounting points below the main hoop to put a receiver on.
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Jul 17, 2021 00:43
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I'm not taking the sketch quite that literally.
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Jul 17, 2021 00:47
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ryanrs posted:I notice your louvered surface is perpendicular to the airflow. Since my front bumper will overhang the radiator, the louvers should open upwards, I think? Will that still look cool?
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Jul 17, 2021 01:28
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Where do you get the formed louver sheetmetal? My searches are returning mostly heater vents, ha ha.
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Jul 17, 2021 02:43
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