|
Panty Saluter posted:Must be a BMW Well, 5.0LV8 of 93 octane expended at about 11mpg with 90* F ambient is probably a lot of heat to get rid of considering the relative air temperature, especially if the radiator airflow is compromised due to the lower splash guard. I’ll let it cool overnight and see what happens in the morning. Worst case I’ll park it until the appointment next week and drive the ranger in the meantime. Time to start researching oil coolers. This is the first time I’ve had any issues with the car, and I keep the revs high. 
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 15, 2021 |
#
?
Jul 15, 2021 21:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 10:56 |
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:What are you replacing them with? I've had thoughts about doing one of the bushing kits on my C10 just from all the stories of needles getting out of them and into the oil. I just got a replacement needle type kit for now since I didn't know about the bushings at the time. It's temporary since I have the LQ9 cam I got from another goon plus new lifters, pushrods, guide plates, roller rockers, 3/8 studs and Brian Tooley beehives to go in later on. Probably get a tune to go with it as well. Should be a nice upgrade and while I'm thinking about it what do you think the best stock intake would be to go with that? It's going to stay a work truck so a large torque band is what I'm after.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 00:02
|
|
|
Assuming cathedral port heads, the TBSS / NNBS intake is the best factory intake by a good margin. Plus you can buy them new for cheap. The LS6 intake is only better at fitting under low hoods, costs more, and doesn't make as much torque. A decent chunk of the aftermarket intake manifolds are actually worse than the TBSS, and the only ones that are definitely better are obscenely expensive.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 00:13
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Assuming cathedral port heads, the TBSS / NNBS intake is the best factory intake by a good margin. Plus you can buy them new for cheap. The LS6 intake is only better at fitting under low hoods, costs more, and doesn't make as much torque. A decent chunk of the aftermarket intake manifolds are actually worse than the TBSS, and the only ones that are definitely better are obscenely expensive. Yea cathedral ports, cheap and good is exactly what I want, thanks. Hood clearance is not a problem.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 00:47
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Well, 5.0LV8 of 93 octane expended at about 11mpg with 90* F ambient is probably a lot of heat to get rid of considering the relative air temperature, especially if the radiator airflow is compromised due to the lower splash guard. I’ll let it cool overnight and see what happens in the morning. Worst case I’ll park it until the appointment next week and drive the ranger in the meantime. Have them check over your cooling system during your appointment, you really shouldn't be overheating that much with some spirited driving. I've taken rental cars to track days and thrashed them for 20 minutes of "instructor play time" and never had overheating issues. Modern car should have zero issues staying cool with stock functioning cooling system on the stock motor unless it's crazy stupid hot out and you're really over taxing the motor.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 10:09
|
|
|
NitroSpazzz posted:Have them check over your cooling system during your appointment, you really shouldn't be overheating that much with some spirited driving. I've taken rental cars to track days and thrashed them for 20 minutes of "instructor play time" and never had overheating issues. Modern car should have zero issues staying cool with stock functioning cooling system on the stock motor unless it's crazy stupid hot out and you're really over taxing the motor. This is exactly true. Anecdotal, but one of my good friends just lemon law’d his G70 for similar and other issues.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 10:53
|
|
|
Well it would help to check the obvious; now that it’s had a chance to cool off overnight I checked the coolant level, not great! Off to the auto store as soon as they open. Once I get some more coolant back in so there is something in the reservoir, I’m just gonna park it until next week and add it to the service tab.
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 11:13 on Jul 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 11:11
|
|
|
Why did Hyundai stop using that v8?
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 11:29
|
|
|
It is very, very thirsty.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 11:31
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Well it would help to check the obvious; now that it’s had a chance to cool off overnight I checked the coolant level, not great! Off to the auto store as soon as they open. Once I get some more coolant back in so there is something in the reservoir, I’m just gonna park it until next week and add it to the service tab. Make sure you get ALL the air out of the cooling system once you fill it, either you or the shop. If there's a big air bubble in the system it isn't going to cool for poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 14:49
|
|
|
New Viofo dashcam showed up. Just the basic A119 V3, plus a 64GB Samsung high endurance memory card. My old Roav dashcam had a spicy pillow, didn't trust it much anymore - and the Transcend high endurance card that I used for a couple of years would no longer read reliably. New microphone (for the stereo) also showed up, so... Wires run, hooked up, testing to make sure the stereo can fully power the dashcam, making sure the mic works, before I put the dash back together. Wires are run down the A pillar and behind the cluster:  Powering the dashcam from the rear USB port on the stereo. Dear god Viofo gives you a long as hell USB cable (this is after running it down the A pillar, snaking it through the dash, etc). The cavity for the stereo isn't that deep either without some trimming of the dash support, so I'm glad I'm using an old single DIN for now - I was able to tuck a bunch of this poo poo under it.  Went to the car wash to spray some bird poo poo off, and uh.... well the bird poo poo is gone. So is the paint it was attached to. Ford fleet car paint really blows. It was already chipped/peeling, but I'm pretty sure at this point I could strip almost all the paint off of the car in about 20 minutes in a car wash bay.  One of my managers also has a P71, and said his paint looked exactly like my car until he got it painted. He got the basic Maaco paint job, but did all the prep himself. I'm torn between doing that at some point, or plastidip, or a wrap, or... ?? Whatever's cheap and will hold up for few years. The car is solid mechanically aside from fueling issues (pretty sure new FPR + new filter will take care of that), the body is straight, the interior isn't torn up, it's not in any real maintenance debt - it's definitely worth fixing up a bit. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jul 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 16:12
|
|
|
STR posted:New Viofo dashcam showed up. Just the basic A119 V3, plus a 64GB Samsung high endurance memory card. My old Roav dashcam had a spicy pillow, didn't trust it much anymore - and the Transcend high endurance card that I used for a couple of years would no longer read reliably. New microphone (for the stereo) also showed up, so... The cable with mine wasn't that long! How are you wiring to the USB cable? Plugged into the stereo? Edit oh you wrote that in exactly. I didn't know radios could have rear USB ports!
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 16:27
|
|
|
STR posted:Powering the dashcam from the rear USB port on the stereo. Dear god Viofo gives you a long as hell USB cable (this is after running it down the A pillar, snaking it through the dash, etc). The cavity for the stereo isn't that deep either without some trimming of the dash support, so I'm glad I'm using an old single DIN for now - I was able to tuck a bunch of this poo poo under it. Protip: you can also mount the dash kit with the pocket on top, which allows fo a longer single-DIN, since there's a full DIN space on the bottom, because the factory Ford CD or cassette radios had the mechanisms on the bottom. They had a double DIN face, but a single-DIN butt, down low.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 16:28
|
|
|
Well the new bearings didn't fix the noise. It seems better but not gone. The kit was short bearings so the 2 driver side rear ones didn't get done but that isn't where the noise is coming from. It seems to be coming from the front area. If it was an old school SBC I'd guess wrong size fuel pump rod (fun if you've ever had to figure that one out) but obviously not the case here. I have a video if anyone has had this noise or has a good guess. Bad lifter maybe? https://youtu.be/3AaPyuyhdxg
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2021 23:52
|
|
|
The sunroof header panel on my new-to-me Abarth had the typical paint peeling issues. I got the dealer to give me $500 off for the issue but I fixed it this morning for free with a piece of leftover vinyl. Maybe not as nice as the piano black, but free is free. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2021 18:01
|
|
|
Neighbor left to get her CDL months ago, bounced between a couple of different schools since most of the beginner schools find various ways to gently caress you over. Her brother was supposed to at least drive her car around the parking lot a bit to keep the battery charged. Several months later, she comes home to a completely dead car, with a 1 year old battery. She asked if I would mind looking after her car (a ~2015ish Nissan Rogue) and see if I can get it running again. She jumped it and got it running, drove it around the parking lot a bit, then once she shut it off it was totally dead again. She's gone for at least a month right now.  That uh.. that looks like it's boiled. Recently. Guessing from that poor alternator dumping all the amps into it a couple of days ago. I jumped it (negative cable on the block for obvious reasons), pissed the alarm off, got it started. Drove it a little bit, let it run a bit, put $5 of fresh gas in it (it was on fumes already), and it didn't die immediately after shutting off, but it struggled to restart after being parked for 5 minutes. Yanked the battery, battery tray is wet, so it definitely boiled recently. It's on my Hopefully my garage doesn't go Hindenberg when I go to work tonight, but I left the overhead door cracked to let air circulate, left the light on (so no sparks from me turning a light on later), and the door opener is unplugged - I'll just open the door by hand 5 or 10 minutes before I need to go to work. This poor car is on its death bed though - 169k (nice), it's the AWD version, the rear diff is howling like a banshee, the CVT is starting to slip a bit. Menu show it's in 100% FWD mode right now, so at least no power is going to the rear. e: just went to the garage to check on it, heard a PFFT from the corner and got a whiff of rotten eggs. Charger showed it was up to 12.3 volts, but uh... no. Unplugged the charger and backed away from the Darchangel posted:Protip: you can also mount the dash kit with the pocket on top, which allows fo a longer single-DIN, since there's a full DIN space on the bottom, because the factory Ford CD or cassette radios had the mechanisms on the bottom. They had a double DIN face, but a single-DIN butt, down low.  The cage fits the head unit either way around, so I guess next time I pull the stereo I could just flip the entire mounting kit around without touching the cage. Actually I'll probably have to do just that, since it'll have RCAs sticking out after the next time I pull it out. It's not coming back out until I hook my sub up. StormDrain posted:The cable with mine wasn't that long! How are you wiring to the USB cable? Plugged into the stereo? Yeah, lots of aftermarket stereos do - sometimes just front, often just rear, sometimes both (Pioneer seems to mostly opt for rear-only except on their really cheap stuff, or used to.. haven't bought a new stereo in a few years). The question mark is how much power does that port put out, and is it enough for a dashcam.... I think mine puts 1A out. Seems to make the dashcam happy. I didn't even look at what the power supply it came with puts out, and the tiny little booklet it came with doesn't specify what it needs aside from 5V USB, but it's your typical cig lighter style USB-A power supply. I think the Kenwood in the Matrix has one on the front and one on the back; my other spare stereo (also Kenwood, but much higher end) has 2 on the back that claim 2A/each. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jul 18, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2021 16:36
|
|
|
It's me, I am the horrible mechanical failure: It had been making an ugly noise for a couple weeks before I got around to doing the pads and rotors today. Oddly the other three pads while well worn each had plenty of material left. This was the front passenger side on my Mazda 3. I got nearly 99,000 miles out of these factory fronts so I'm not going to begrudge them a little uneven wear. More annoyingly, the driver's side door lock has decided to mostly stop unlocking (electrically, the key works and turns just fine) so I'll need to figure out how to address that. Ideally without pulling the door card off. But I'm still not used to this so I still hit the button for keyless entry and keep getting super pissed off when it doesn't work. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 00:09
|
|
|
Wife was complaining about lack of back up camera in her Elantra, and having to look down at her phone for navigation, so I did a little audio upgrade today. One of the factory speakers was blown so I replaced the set too with some $50/pair Kenwoods. Went with the cheapest CarPlay stereo Crutchfield carried, a Boss unit, it's pretty nice. Got it all set up with a camera in the factory location (you only got it in 2013 if you had the navigation system). Sounds great, CarPlay rules as always, happy wife, etc. I think I just need to shim the camera upwards a tiny bit, but the shims it came with only let me go in the opposite direction so I'll need to come up with a solution there. The Metra dash kit is actually a really good match for interior color and texture, I was surprised there after using some really horrid ones in the past.     
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 00:57
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Wife was complaining about lack of back up camera in her Elantra, and having to look down at her phone for navigation, so I did a little audio upgrade today. One of the factory speakers was blown so I replaced the set too with some $50/pair Kenwoods. Went with the cheapest CarPlay stereo Crutchfield carried, a Boss unit, it's pretty nice. Got it all set up with a camera in the factory location (you only got it in 2013 if you had the navigation system). Sounds great, CarPlay rules as always, happy wife, etc. I think I just need to shim the camera upwards a tiny bit, but the shims it came with only let me go in the opposite direction so I'll need to come up with a solution there. The Metra dash kit is actually a really good match for interior color and texture, I was surprised there after using some really horrid ones in the past. That is a wildly enormous space in the dash. I’m waiting for a touchscreen CarPlay unit to arrive for the new Abarth but it fits in the stock radio/vent space. It’s like half the size of that cavern
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 01:02
|
|
|
It’s a truly impressive expanse of blank plastic, and the dash kit does it no favors. The 2014 refresh helped a little and moved the vents up which would also be nice because these just hit your knees.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 03:34
|
|
|
That looks like the same backup camera I put on my Jeep - if so, it works quite well, she’ll like it. Adjusts to low light very well (I set it up so I can switch it on while outside reverse, and even with just ambient light, it gives a solid black and white image). Between that and the clean install, definitely my go-to Amazon special camera now.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 05:17
|
|
|
STR posted:e: just went to the garage to check on it, heard a PFFT from the corner and got a whiff of rotten eggs. Charger showed it was up to 12.3 volts, but uh... no. Unplugged the charger and backed away from the Was still at 12.3 when I got home from work, so it's at least holding a charge. Was able to drop it into neighbor's car and it started right up, got it out of her brother's reserved space. Giving the recondition mode on the charger another shot, with the battery on my patio this time (sitting on an old floor mat, so if it winds up boiling a little, meh.. won't hurt the concrete this way, and any hydrogen will be outside). Anyone seen my nipple clamps?  
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 13:52
|
|
|
STR posted:
I was looking under the hood for something seemingly unrelated yesterday and saw this, I'm guessing my battery is on the way to being hosed:  That build up on the tie down bracket was what caught my eye, but because of your picture I noticed the liquid on top as well. The battery is only about two years old too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 16:12
|
|
|
No pics, but replaced the passenger side window motor/regulator on the Danger Ranger. Probably took 45 minutes which included drilling out rivets and finding appropriate hardware in my bucket o’ bolts. First go around we had two too-long bolts, and second time around only one, but I will love with the window only going down 80% of the way for now since it’s five minutes to fix it later.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 18:06
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:That looks like the same backup camera I put on my Jeep - if so, it works quite well, she’ll like it. Adjusts to low light very well (I set it up so I can switch it on while outside reverse, and even with just ambient light, it gives a solid black and white image). That's the reason I got it, looks super clean and OEM, I hate those license plate frame cameras. Trip report: wife says volume buttons are too small and hard to reach, especially because of the shape of the dash kit. So it looks like I'm installing a steering wheel control adapter after all. I may also see about angling the screen upwards a little to help, pretty sure the mounting brackets have enough adjustability for that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 18:12
|
|
|
DrChu posted:I was looking under the hood for something seemingly unrelated yesterday and saw this, I'm guessing my battery is on the way to being hosed: That could also be from overcharging - you'll want to check the voltage with the engine running. I've had it sitting outside since I got home from work, charging. Hasn't boiled or burped or anything today, though the charger seems to be a lot less aggressive now that it has a decent charge in it. It's been on the desulfate mode all day. Fan in the charger is screaming, but it's still showing "BATTERY IN REPAIR". From reviews I've looked up on this charger, it'll normally take 12-16 hours to finish. I should probably pop the caps once it's done and make sure there's enough liquid inside... e: was sitting outside watching a storm come in.. right when the rain started really coming down (when I was starting to cover the charger and hope it didn't get wet), the charger clicked off and showed "REPAIR COMPLETE". It dropped down to 12.5 volts pretty quick, and the charger kicked back on into 2 amp mode after less than a minute, but it's holding at 12.5 without the charger. It's only cranking over a 2.5 (QR25DE), so hopefully she'll get a few months out of it until she can save up and get the car fixed up/replaced/whatever. I'm gonna move it to the garage and keep it on 2 amps until she gets back in town, should hopefully be enough to offset any self discharge (famous last words). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jul 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
STR posted:That could also be from overcharging - you'll want to check the voltage with the engine running.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2021 23:56
|
|
|
Bought the missing piece for the E92 M3 The last factory new M Performance exhaust available from BMW Germany. I figured before I try to order it online and propably get a fake one I might give the local bmw dealership a call. The parts department was quite puzzled about the online availability, because the entire stock in the BMW Inventory was down to one. Said I would sleep about it a night. Gave a call to most of the renowned online stores for BMW parts in Germany. They were in the process of taking it out of stock - likely forever. Called back the dealership, ordered the last one. Price was 100 Euro above cheapest internet seller but I don't have to pay shipping and no headache with pirated parts. Lucky day.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2021 15:46
|
|
|
Changed the stereo in the Abarth to something modern. It’s amazing what $300 will get nowadays. It was a simple plug and play unit, maybe 30 minutes to install; most of which was running the USB wire for the wired CarPlay.   
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2021 18:55
|
|
|
 Been working on this on and off for twoish months now but it's done! Superduty front leaf spring and shackle reversal from Sky Manufacturing. The alignment is off but holy cow what a ride improvement. Got a similar kit for the rear springs but uhh I think I'm just gonna pay to have that done.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 13:43
|
|
|
 Eyelet to t bar conversion on rear coilovers since no one makes a set for the 63 Poncho. Just pressed out the old bushing and long bolt + two washer tricked the new one in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2021 15:12
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:That's the reason I got it, looks super clean and OEM, I hate those license plate frame cameras. Installed the module today. I was highly skeptical of its "self programming" but damned if it didn't just work. The module itself only needs switched power, ground, and one wire for the steering wheel control circuit. They have lots of other wires on the harness to accommodate for other applications. Just hook it all up, hold down the volume up button, done. You can even hook it up to a computer if you want to reprogram the steering wheel buttons for other functions, and even add secondary functions activated by holding down any of the buttons. Neat stuff. Used this guy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was surprised Crutchfield didn't list this as an option when I built the system there originally, they only listed much more involved adapters costing twice as much. Possibly because the documentation hadn't been updated to reflect that this adapter works with Boss head units.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2021 20:16
|
|
|
I had one of those in my WJ. It's the only aftermarket steering wheel adapter that can pick up the steering wheel controls over the old Chrysler PCI bus instead of making you hack the wiring in the steering column.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2021 23:51
|
|
|
NEFR prep time. All of the maintenance is done, and the rally poo poo is bolted back on and wired up.   Just need to get all the recovery gear sorted and loaded and I'm ready to pull out a bunch of off-course subarus.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2021 23:58
|
|
|
Nice to see a Cayenne actually going to work. You never see then on all terrains (or at least I don't)
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2021 00:21
|
|
|
Motronic posted:NEFR prep time. All of the maintenance is done, and the rally poo poo is bolted back on and wired up. I missed all the NEFR shenanigans so much last year. I'm so drat excited to see everyone this year!
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2021 00:35
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:I missed all the NEFR shenanigans so much last year. I'm so drat excited to see everyone this year! Hell. Yesssss. Me too. I'll be there Wednesday night. Got an apartment in Cascades. Hit me up when you get there. Panty Saluter posted:Nice to see a Cayenne actually going to work. You never see then on all terrains (or at least I don't) Thanks, and yeah....my Cayenne actually does stuff.  
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2021 00:51
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Thanks, and yeah....my Cayenne actually does stuff. Does more stuff than any SuperDuty ever will. Truck is resprung for the camper. Took the shop three days to get it all sitting right. Airsprings removed, I'll sell em on craigslist or whatever. New capacity is as follows: 9572lb spring cap up front on 8600lb of tire capacity with 12,600lb out back on 8600lb of tire cap. Room for future tire/wheel upgrades, etc. 3 leaves in the front with 11 out back. This truck is now more F450/550(lol F-superduty was the name of the era) than not. Unloaded the rear is about 2" higher than loaded with the camper. Haven't driven it unloaded, prob a log cart just like it was before. Its not meant to be a grocery getter so I do not care. Ride quality is ironically greatly improved. Cornering improved. I5 potholes and launch inducing ledges improved. dive under heavy braking, also improved. They also corrected the pinion angle for the double-cardan driveline built in 2018. Over the loving moon. I've not often paid a shop to fix stuff for me outside of the usual suspects. This was absolutely worth it.       
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Jul 28, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 02:29
|
|
|
Everything you do to that truck is great. Looks great, looks right. Those goddamn u bolts on the rear are huge. They look like anchor bolts or hairpins I've put in concrete.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 03:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 10:56 |
|
|
Glad you found someplace to do good suspension work for you, especially in situ. Never seen leafs seperated like this before into 2pacs. In the chat thread you mentioned they shimmed the overload pack to engage sooner, is that what this is? Do the tires tuck into that beam there? It's hard to tell with pics but it looks like you have 2" of uptravel hah.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 06:36
|
|
