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ryanrs posted:I do not believe this is true. You don't lose insurance coverage because of expired tags. This depends on the jurisdiction. Overall, though, the plan should be to get insurance, then get temporary tags so you can drive to the shop.
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Jul 19, 2021 04:10
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I bet the DMV will want back registration and penalties, perhaps even before issuing a temp tag.
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Jul 19, 2021 04:47
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ryanrs posted:I bet the DMV will want back registration and penalties, perhaps even before issuing a temp tag. That's pretty much a california thing. This is a completely different state.
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Jul 19, 2021 05:07
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Really? That must be nice. Non-Californians: In CA if you don't want to register your car (race car, long term project, w/e), you have to register your non-registration at the DMV and pay a fee (smaller than the registration fee, though). I am absolutely not making this up.
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Jul 19, 2021 05:21
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Are AGM batteries worth it? I've got a 2016 Subaru Legacy (2.5L H4) that *came* with a standard flooded cell that's now 5 1/2 years old and while still testing "good," I feel the need to change it imminently because I know my luck's going to run out sooner rather than later. The reason I'm asking about AGM batteries is 1) I kinda like the idea of a battery that might last another 5 1/2 years (and the one I'm looking at has a 48 month warranty that I could extend to 72 with the Costco Citi warranty extension), and 2) I'm looking into putting in a hard-wired dashcam soon and I figure an AGM might handle nighttime motion sensing captures (a parasitic drain) better than an "OG" battery. I'm not looking into Optimas because I've heard their quality's taken a nosedive over the past few years. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 05:24
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Optimas are fine (I have a post-supposed nosedive redtop that I have killed killed 10+ times that still charges right back up and is fine, everybody I know who off roads uses them), I’m not sure that AGM will really make any difference directly for lasting longer with a dash cam on them, though if you get a deep cycle AGM, you may see some benefit.
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Jul 19, 2021 05:30
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ryanrs posted:Really? That must be nice. Ah, but don't forget the best part: if you don't register your non-registered vehicle, the DMV assumes you were driving it illegally anyway, and the next time you go to register it you have to pay all the back fees and penalties for the years you went without registration or PNO ("planned non-operation") status. The DMV doesn't care who let the registration lapse; the fees are owed by anyone who wants to register the car in their name. So it is very common in California for barn finds to have several thousand dollars owed in back registration fees, even though the car might be worth a tenth of that and literally has been sitting in a barn for twenty years. A+
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Jul 19, 2021 05:42
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Could you potentially register it in a neighboring state to get around that?
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Jul 19, 2021 07:45
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ryanrs posted:Really? That must be nice. This year it's $23 for planned non-operation, compared to $323 for renewing my car. Sweden's gotten to the point where you can de-register/re-register your car for road taxes with day granularity. There's even an official app you can use to switch the car's status - my dad does this for their motorhome when they're not going to use it for a couple weeks.
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Jul 19, 2021 08:18
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I had to pay a whole years fee and only got the remaining months when I reactivated a car in California. That was stupid.
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Jul 19, 2021 12:24
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latinotwink1997 posted:I have a 2012 GTI. I don’t know the VW side of it, but I’ve been VERY impressed using the android app “deep OBD for VAG and BMW” (GitHub link, I downloaded from google play store) with the cheapest Amazon bluetooth dealie for my BMW, it definitely wasn’t intuitive to set up, but after an hour or so fiddling with it, I have access to everything that the older dealership software (INPA) could do, including activating fans, modules, and the like. Highly recommended, and free. E: looks like the VAG side of it is still experimental, and somewhat limited, but for pulling manufacturer specific codes, you might still be in luck. glyph fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 16:02
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Continuous vigorous bubbling from the overflow tank *from cold" is definitely a blown head gasket right? gently caress.
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Jul 19, 2021 18:10
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spankmeister posted:Could you potentially register it in a neighboring state to get around that? Sorta yeah but what a pain in the rear end. The farmtruck I run had a mid 4 figures in backfees due to it being unregistered for a decade. The (interim) PO took care of those, I bought the truck basically for the cost of those backfees. Its sort of the states way of trying to rid old cars by making it precipitously expensive to return them to the roads. luminalflux posted:This year it's $23 for planned non-operation, compared to $323 for renewing my car. CA will let you do this to a degree with non-use filing, it can be done online. Thanks to 2020 I've had to do it to my motos twice now. Costs? The farmtruck hovers around $350 for a 31 year old vehicle, its taxed on its unladen weight. Fine by me. E: cakesmith handyman posted:Continuous vigorous bubbling from the overflow tank *from cold" is definitely a blown head gasket right? You got it. Pressure test the cooling system while using a borescope if you really care. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 18:22
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cursedshitbox posted:Sorta yeah but what a pain in the rear end. It's not entirely clear what the penalty is, but I can't imagine it's good.
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Jul 19, 2021 18:41
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Krakkles posted:Especially because they're pretty aggressive about enforcing it - there are programs to get people to rat out other people who have their car registered somewhere else, and it's definitely a thing that will get questioned if you have a CA license and are driving a vehicle with out of state plates. I've never actually tried, the chp comes down pretty gnarly on people trying to skirt registration if its not a brand new amg... I have been the dumb kid to drive a car with a pile of fees outside of the one day permit which resulted in a huge rear end ticket + having to pay the backfees on the car though that was over a decade ago when everything was financially strapped and hurting for cash.
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Jul 19, 2021 18:46
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cursedshitbox posted:I've never actually tried, the chp comes down pretty gnarly on people trying to skirt registration if its not a brand new amg... I have been the dumb kid to drive a car with a pile of fees outside of the one day permit which resulted in a huge rear end ticket + having to pay the backfees on the car though that was over a decade ago when everything was financially strapped and hurting for cash. For whatever reason I was rolling around with expired tags on the Crosstrek for the better part of a 6 months around LA and never got stopped once.
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Jul 19, 2021 20:52
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Is riding the clutch in neutral bad for the clutch or just the throw out bearing? I'm trying to break the habit
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Jul 19, 2021 22:53
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Just the throw-out bearing and arguably the springs. Best not to do it though, yeah
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Jul 19, 2021 23:14
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Per my post 2 weeks ago about energy drain in my car, after I found that the battery was losing charge even when disconnected I tried to return the battery but they said it passed the charge test and wouldn't replace it. I borrowed a car battery charger and found that the battery wouldn't charge past 50%, 2 days later it dropped down to 25%, after hooking it up and charging again it wouldn't go past 50%, and then dropping down again after sitting 2 more days. Took a week to do but with pictures of this I went back to oReilly's and was able to get a replacement. You guys were right, case solved. Fully expect I will still have a parasitic energy drain in my car but at least I know that the new battery was a new problem (I suspected because the drain was significantly worse than with my old battery.)
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Jul 19, 2021 23:33
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If everything is telling you it's one thing but an oreillys test is the lone evidence in opposition, the idiot definitely read or operated the machine wrong. I have spent weeks scrutinizing wiring based on their bullshit only to find out later the brand new 17 year old employee hooked up the test wrong I'm sure it was a coincidence they were the party involved who held the warranty for the part in question
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Jul 20, 2021 00:24
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Sanctum posted:Per my post 2 weeks ago about energy drain in my car, after I found that the battery was losing charge even when disconnected I tried to return the battery but they said it passed the charge test and wouldn't replace it. This is why you demand they put it on the carbon pile load tester (which takes 60+ minutes). Quick testers are bullshit. I've said this many times. If they say the battery is bad it's almost definitely right. If they say it's good it's loving meaningless.
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Jul 20, 2021 01:00
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2015 Nissan Rogue, AWD, 2.5L. Rear diff is howling like a banshee. Did these come with different gear ratios depending on options/year, or just the one? Told my neighbor I'd look into what it would take to swap it. At least it's rust-free, so if I wind up helping her out, it shouldn't be too bad (famous last words). Just trying to help her limp it along until she can afford something better, this thing is very much on its last legs mechanically (CVT is starting to get sloppier than a CVT is supposed to be, tells knock-knock jokes for a moment on a cold start, throwing several codes, etc). It's set to 100% FWD right now, so at least there's no power going through it, but I wouldn't be shocked if it locks up the rear soon with the noises it's making (no crunching, but it sounds like it's running totally dry). If it's as simple as yanking the half shafts and swapping the center section, and they only had one gear ratio, then I'm probably game for swapping it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 02:04
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This is why I buy batteries from Costco. "This battery I bought last week sucks" "Dang, sorry. Grab a replacement and I'll switch them out" I walk out with the new battery, no fuss.
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Jul 20, 2021 02:05
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Or from Autozone. The 3 stores around me will swap it for a new one, no questions asked, as long as the warranty is good
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Jul 20, 2021 04:04
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So I've been with Progressive for probably 4-5 years now,I was at fault for a minor fender bender, didn't damage my car so no claim there but the other guy had to get some body work done. Anyways my new 6 month bill just came in and my rates went up 42% does that seem right? That seems absolutely insane, I've been driving for 16 years and this is my first accident and it shoots my rate up that much? Should I be looking to switch insurance companies or can I call them and argue?
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Jul 20, 2021 06:29
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I have no idea how car insurance works in the US but when I had a similar accident I did some math and decided it was cheaper to just pay the €600 for the repair. My rates would have gone up enough to make it way more expensive in the long run to have insurance pay for it. Luckily it's very easy to do the calculation because it's based on the number of years without causing any damage. In the US that calculation is probably some arcane magick. In general it's better to pay for "small" repairs, if you can afford it at that time.
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Jul 20, 2021 06:44
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Yeah it's too late for that unfortunately. I was thinking it would go up a bit but not 42%, if I knew that I would have just paid out of pocket. Insurance is such poo poo.
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Jul 20, 2021 08:12
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Shop around every time your policy is up for renewal, but ESPECIALLY when there's a rate increase. Progressive can be pretty expensive. I've had them before, and I just quoted them again on a whim - they want $156/mo for me, when I'm currently paying <$100.
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Jul 20, 2021 11:08
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Yeah, there is no advantage to sticking with 1 insurance company. If you want to save money, shop around every year (and be prepared to hop around providers). They will use any excuse to raise your rates, the way to keep them honest is to play them against each other.
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Jul 20, 2021 13:03
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Should I just sell my car to a dealer? I've been trying to sell a 2014 Focus with 80k miles on AutoTrader and Craigslist. Trying to get KBB or a bit below. I have it listed at $7k. Dealers have been offering $6k to $6.5K, so that sets a reasonable price floor. I've had 0 interest from people. The only replies on either platform are dealers offering something in the range I listed, or standard Craigslist people who can't pass a Turing test. NC, USA.
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Jul 20, 2021 14:30
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Popete posted:Yeah it's too late for that unfortunately. I was thinking it would go up a bit but not 42%, if I knew that I would have just paid out of pocket. It sucks because you have to trust people to pay out of pocket too. At my advanced age, if I got into a not-at-fault accident, I would probably file a claim with my insurance. It's just lovely for the at-fault person but it means I don't have to deal with potentially a ton of hassle. And it's literally part of what you pay your premiums for. I moved a few miles in the same city and changing the address for my policy raised my rate by like 30%.  I'm getting other quotes to switch now, and you should too.
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 14:45
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Dominoes posted:Should I just sell my car to a dealer? I've been trying to sell a 2014 Focus with 80k miles on AutoTrader and Craigslist. Trying to get KBB or a bit below. I have it listed at $7k. I'd take the 6.5k.
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Jul 20, 2021 14:57
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Popete posted:Yeah it's too late for that unfortunately. I was thinking it would go up a bit but not 42%, if I knew that I would have just paid out of pocket. I switched away from Progressive because they did a similar huge rate increase after my first year. The catch is, I didn't do anything. No crashes, claims, tickets. You should shop around for car insurance every year or two, just to keep them honest(ish). Now I'm with esurance.
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Jul 20, 2021 15:22
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I was thinking, temperature extremes shorten battery lives don't they, so do cars with the batt in the trunk have longer lasting batteries than ones under the hood?
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Jul 20, 2021 15:25
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Dominoes posted:Should I just sell my car to a dealer? I've been trying to sell a 2014 Focus with 80k miles on AutoTrader and Craigslist. Trying to get KBB or a bit below. I have it listed at $7k. Have you tried Carvana or Shift? They sometimes offer higher prices because they’re burning VC money to capture the market
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Jul 20, 2021 15:46
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Crankit posted:I was thinking, temperature extremes shorten battery lives don't they, so do cars with the batt in the trunk have longer lasting batteries than ones under the hood? Anecdotally, yes. STR is on his way to tell you about his 10 year old trunk battery in his Saturn.
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Jul 20, 2021 15:51
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Dominoes posted:Should I just sell my car to a dealer? I've been trying to sell a 2014 Focus with 80k miles on AutoTrader and Craigslist. Trying to get KBB or a bit below. I have it listed at $7k. unless it's a manual, it's on most lists of "used cars to avoid", so many informed buyers will steer clear might be worth trying to hold your nose and listing it on facebook. i just sold a car on there in less than a day
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Jul 20, 2021 16:52
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So yeah I decided to get a quote with Esurance to see how big a difference it is and it's pretty significant. Only catch is the online quote asks if I've had a violation in the past 5 years, I marked yes yet it still says I'm "claim free for the past 5 years" and gives me a discount. I assume the system knows I had a claim recently since it pulled all my information down about my cars from ~the cloud~. Is it safe to just roll with the quote they gave me or do I need to call them and clarify?
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Jul 20, 2021 17:31
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A violation is like a speeding ticket or something. That's different from making a claim against the insurance. It's just assuming that you have no claims in the last 5 years, and yes, that will change when they actually process the policy for real and factor that in. Not sure what information you mean it pulled down from ~the cloud~. Did you put in your car's VIN? There's a large amount of information about the car encoded in that number. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 17:44
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Sagebrush posted:A violation is like a speeding ticket or something. That's different from making a claim against the insurance. It's just assuming that you have no claims in the last 5 years, and yes, that will change when they actually process the policy for real and factor that in. Ah ok, that makes sense. Maybe once I officially try to purchase the plan the rate will go up. I'm not sure where it pulls the info, it just automatically pulled down the info for both my cars and I assumed it got that from Progressive somehow but perhaps they pull it from the states database.
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Jul 20, 2021 17:58
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