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coldpudding posted:Don't do what I did and let your mig wire go rusty in the machine Nice sex chair. Incorporate cuffs and start selling copies for 2k a piece.
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Jul 22, 2021 17:54
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I had a hell of a time getting my old mans flux core welder working again after that.
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Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Nice sex chair. Incorporate cuffs and start selling copies for 2k a piece.
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Jul 22, 2021 17:58
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coldpudding posted:Don't do what I did and let your mig wire go rusty in the machine this is gonna be another one for the Goon Projects list, isn't it proposal: i will weld up a nice metal computer chair reality: a goon ends up in a full-body cast after inadvertently creating a human-sized bear trap i'm sure it will look fine when upholstered, just keep your fingers clear
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Jul 22, 2021 21:18
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Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Nice sex chair. Incorporate cuffs and start selling copies for 2k a piece. Lol I'd have to beef it up and switch to stainless steel or at least a heavy powder coating if I was gonna start doing that, can't have angry folks returning rusty broken chairs.
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Jul 24, 2021 05:45
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This MIG poo poo’s amazing. Spent a little while just screwing around on some old tube steel I had lying around and eventually got them looking like these:  There’s obviously a newbie’s unsteady hand at work here, I need to figure out my pace and then learn to maintain it, but aside from that, any feedback? Any idea why I often have that little “pop” at the end of the bead?
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Jul 25, 2021 03:21
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coldpudding posted:Lol I'd have to beef it up and switch to stainless steel or at least a heavy powder coating if I was gonna start doing that, can't have angry folks returning rusty broken chairs. According to the thread title, anodization is the way to go.
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Jul 25, 2021 08:10
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coldpudding posted:Lol I'd have to beef it up and switch to stainless steel or at least a heavy powder coating if I was gonna start doing that, can't have angry folks returning rusty broken chairs. Hot dip galvanize for the texture.
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Jul 25, 2021 09:17
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Bad Munki posted:This MIG poo poo’s amazing. Spent a little while just screwing around on some old tube steel I had lying around and eventually got them looking like these: Yea mig is really cool. At my old job we used it for non critical stuff so it was just like a metal glue gun.
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Jul 25, 2021 12:22
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Bad Munki posted:This MIG poo poo’s amazing. Spent a little while just screwing around on some old tube steel I had lying around and eventually got them looking like these: Someone who is better at welding will probably know what thats actually from, but IIRC, when that happens using a stick welder its because you're pulling away too quickly at the end of the bead. For a mig, maybe try stopping your feed before you pull the gun away? Nice beads by the way, are you using gas or flux?
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Jul 25, 2021 14:07
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Bad Munki posted:There’s obviously a newbie’s unsteady hand at work here, I need to figure out my pace and then learn to maintain it, but aside from that, any feedback? Any idea why I often have that little “pop” at the end of the bead? The crater at the end of the bead can be minimized/eliminated by pausing for a bit at the end of the weld before stopping the arc. The amount to pause is a bit of trial and error but 1-2sec is a good starting point. This is true for pretty much every weld process though with TIG you have more options involving ramping down the arc current. Do note that if you are planning on continuing the weld and are just stopping to reset position or something, you would not do the crater fill pause. The crater would be filled when you walk the puddle back over the end of the previous bead at the start of the next one. If you fill the crater, when you weld the next bead, you will have either a bump of excess weld or an area of poor penetration.
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Jul 25, 2021 14:48
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Nice beads by the way, are you using gas or flux? C25, with the feed and current settings listed on the panel on the welder for this material/process, it’s as close to an easy button as I can imagine. ZincBoy posted:The crater at the end of the bead can be minimized/eliminated by pausing for a bit at the end of the weld before stopping the arc. The amount to pause is a bit of trial and error but 1-2sec is a good starting point. This is true for pretty much every weld process though with TIG you have more options involving ramping down the arc current. Awesome, thanks!
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Jul 25, 2021 17:04
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ZincBoy posted:\ The crater would be filled when you walk the puddle back over the end of the previous bead at the start of the next one. If you fill the crater, when you weld the next bead, you will have either a bump of excess weld or an area of poor penetration. So when you reposition yourself, you start at the end of the previous bead, go backwards to cover it (the crater) up, then "forwards" to continue the bead down the line? Rather than just starting the next bead by overlapping a half inch or so?
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Jul 25, 2021 17:49
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:So when you reposition yourself, you start at the end of the previous bead, go backwards to cover it (the crater) up, then "forwards" to continue the bead down the line? I remember in the shipyard we were supposed to grind out the crater before starting the next pass, but that was aluminum and it cracks like crazy, especially from the little divot in the center of the crater.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I remember in the shipyard we were supposed to grind out the crater before starting the next pass, but that was aluminum and it cracks like crazy, especially from the little divot in the center of the crater. Neat example of how Radii cause stress concentrations IRL.
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Jul 26, 2021 12:11
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:So when you reposition yourself, you start at the end of the previous bead, go backwards to cover it (the crater) up, then "forwards" to continue the bead down the line? Essentially, yes. This comes from what I was taught for stick welding mild steel. It is more important with stick welding as the arc takes time to get established. If done right, you can't see the point where the beads overlap at all. If done wrong, the stop/start point will fail during a bend test. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I remember in the shipyard we were supposed to grind out the crater before starting the next pass, but that was aluminum and it cracks like crazy, especially from the little divot in the center of the crater. That makes sense to me. All of my limited aluminum welding experience has been using TIG and you can avoid craters just by ramping the current at the end of the pass.
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Jul 26, 2021 15:35
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When a lathe guy decides to flex:
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Aug 2, 2021 16:53
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So if i wanted to make a pressed brass broach using (probably 3d Printed, possibly wooden) dies - what thickness of brass sheet should i be thinking of and how much clearance between the 2 halves of the die should i shoot for?
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Aug 13, 2021 19:39
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shame on an IGA posted:When a lathe guy decides to flex: what are these called? gonna try to print one
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Aug 13, 2021 19:57
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Double thread? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4883091 I remember my dad having a funny looking… uh… thrusting.. screwdriver that used the same principal Yep, still exists, still hilariously dodgy: https://youtu.be/5SFpVM1oDuY Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 20:18
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Ghostnuke posted:what are these called? gonna try to print one 
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Aug 13, 2021 20:25
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Ghostnuke posted:what are these called? gonna try to print one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v96LTfmtDPU
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Aug 13, 2021 20:28
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Make a double thread version of this:
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Aug 13, 2021 20:40
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has anyone used an induction heater before? seems like they don't have enough heat for forging
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Aug 24, 2021 21:19
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They get hot enough to forge weld.
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Aug 24, 2021 22:32
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Anyone got a recommendation on a ring roller? The cheapo harbor freight one apparently likes to roll them skewed, based on the reviews, but I don’t want to drop a grand to make circles.
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Aug 24, 2021 22:43
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threelemmings posted:They get hot enough to forge weld. well that's good to know, they seem a lot more practical than propane forges. Do you know any specifics? I'm hoping to build one.
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Aug 24, 2021 22:54
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone got a recommendation on a ring roller? The cheapo harbor freight one apparently likes to roll them skewed, based on the reviews, but I don’t want to drop a grand to make circles. Harbor freight ring roller. Shim until it doesn't roll them skewed. Serious answer. The bits on the end that adjust the thickness/curvature were RADICALLY different batches of casting/machining and were not matched in any way at all. Even half-assed shimming with washers made it "eeh good enough" in short order.
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Aug 24, 2021 23:31
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Ghostnuke posted:well that's good to know, they seem a lot more practical than propane forges. Do you know any specifics? I'm hoping to build one. Not in particular, unfortunately, which is why I didn't offer much. The three takeaways I know in general is they seem to be a bit power hungry, depending on how the coils are built it can limit what you forge, and that they heat from the outside in so you have to watch your settings to make sure you don't melt the outside before the inside is hot. There's ways around how you build the coil as far as I know. The power part is somewhat hard to pin down, I've seen numbers between $30 and 50 a month for hobbyist use, which seems high given how I'd estimate fuel at the places I've worked full time. But that's all based on occasional forums posts I come across, and having seen one run just for novelty. Never worked in one. If you get one running please report back!
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Aug 24, 2021 23:55
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threelemmings posted:Not in particular, unfortunately, which is why I didn't offer much. The three takeaways I know in general is they seem to be a bit power hungry, depending on how the coils are built it can limit what you forge, and that they heat from the outside in so you have to watch your settings to make sure you don't melt the outside before the inside is hot. There's ways around how you build the coil as far as I know. The power part is somewhat hard to pin down, I've seen numbers between $30 and 50 a month for hobbyist use, which seems high given how I'd estimate fuel at the places I've worked full time. But that's all based on occasional forums posts I come across, and having seen one run just for novelty. Never worked in one. yeah, I'll build one if it's at all possible really. even if it uses a bunch of power it's still a ton easier than propane and storing multiple tanks. I'd have to build the propane forge too, so I might as well build an electric one.
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Aug 25, 2021 00:00
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Harbor freight ring roller. Shim until it doesn't roll them skewed. Serious answer. The bits on the end that adjust the thickness/curvature were RADICALLY different batches of casting/machining and were not matched in any way at all. Even half-assed shimming with washers made it "eeh good enough" in short order. Okay, I’m not opposed to going the “get a likely flawed one and fix it” if that’s actually viable. I was wary of the flaws being intractable, but if that’s not the case, cool beans.
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Aug 25, 2021 00:44
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Harbor Freight ring roller rolls rings just fine for my needs, thanks. 
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Aug 25, 2021 23:29
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Ghostnuke posted:yeah, I'll build one if it's at all possible really. even if it uses a bunch of power it's still a ton easier than propane and storing multiple tanks. just ordered some very large power supplies, should have over 4000w each
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Aug 26, 2021 16:20
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Ghostnuke posted:has anyone used an induction heater before? seems like they don't have enough heat for forging is 1050c hot enough? https://youtu.be/zDIydScmQmI
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Aug 26, 2021 21:31
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If you search youtube for "induction forging" like the first dozen results are about blacksmithing with an induction forge and/or using an induction wand in blacksmithing processes. It looks pretty cool!
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Aug 26, 2021 21:46
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I'm a bit concerned now, I bought a power supply that'll top out around 4kw. but from what I can tell, all the commercial models are like 15? I bought this one based on the PCB I'm building topping out around 3k. Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Aug 27, 2021 |
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Aug 27, 2021 01:29
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Ghostnuke posted:I'm a bit concerned now, I bought a power supply that'll top out around 4kw. but from what I can tell, all the commercial models are like 15? nevermind, just saw a video of a dude doing it with one at half the power planned
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Aug 27, 2021 17:57
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Thought some of you might enjoy this. Timestamped for the final reveal: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlcNR215TFY&t=809s You can even buy the kit: https://www.pmmodelengines.com/shop/machine-tools/machine-models/engine-lathe-kit/
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Aug 29, 2021 02:52
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Hello thread, just caught up on the last 6500 posts! Awesome seeing the progress of His Divine Shadow's shop/mill, shout out to Yooper, Ambrose Burnside and Honda whisperer (and many many others) for awesome content. Expect quite a few posts from me over the coming weeks on the saga of getting a shop set up in the Caribbean. 3 months of machine hunting, tomorrow is the day my bank account takes the first of many hits. I expect it to take 3-4 weeks to get the machines to my door. Plenty of time to make a big enough hole in the shop to fit em in!
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Aug 30, 2021 01:11
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fins posted:Hello thread, just caught up on the last 6500 posts! Hi dude. Looking forward to hearing about your evolving shop. What market are you targeting? Or is it just general job shop stuff?
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Aug 30, 2021 01:46
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TIL someone has to hand file new edges on the hurricane hunter planes' prop blades between every flight because they take so much impact damage https://twitter.com/NOAA_HurrHunter...ingawful.com%2F
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Aug 30, 2021 13:10
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