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"Air blows, no cooling" can be caused by a lot of things, we can't help you via forum post. hope the guy they send finds out. the model mismatch is because goodman sells the same unit under multiple brand names. it is concerning that they couldn't be bothered to get the paperwork correct. your unit is a heat pump, so it really depends on what options the unit got ordered with, if you have electric backup heat that would be the second heat stage.
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Jul 24, 2021 20:09
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Yeah, I figured as much with respect to throwing darts with no real info. Oh well, hopefully they show up today. Arizona has fortunately been spared normal summer heat over the last few days and if they have parts in stock this might not be too terrible. The electric backup heat thing makes sense, I'll take a look at the unit once it is all fixed just out of curiosity, just need to count wires to the compressor, I guess.
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Jul 24, 2021 20:26
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Lately I've been feeling cold even when the house is at 75 (to save power and so forth), and after wondering if the thermostat was broken or didn't have enough sensors, I wound up buying a little thermometer with a humidity gauge, which confirmed that the thermostat is in fact working correctly. What it's made me think, since it tends to tell me that the house is "wet" when the AC hasn't been running for a few hours, is that humidity has more to do with my feeling cold or hot, and makes me wonder if I should consider getting a home dehumidifier, possibly one built into the HVAC system? Is this likely to be useful/worth the money/practical? Climate: South Carolina, one mile from the ocean.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, I figured as much with respect to throwing darts with no real info. Oh well, hopefully they show up today. Arizona has fortunately been spared normal summer heat over the last few days and if they have parts in stock this might not be too terrible. For what it's worth, the 18 SEER Goodman two stage I had installed at my old place last year did fail to start once during the winter. Installer came out and looked at it, turned it off and on again, and then it worked. Recommended a hard start kit but I never bothered putting one on. So apparently it's not entirely unheard of? I can't manage to find anything about it now but the way your thermostat is wired is the same mine was, where the two stage logic is handled entirely by the heat pump itself. It ramps up based on how long the heat / cool command is present.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:For what it's worth, the 18 SEER Goodman two stage I had installed at my old place last year did fail to start once during the winter. Installer came out and looked at it, turned it off and on again, and then it worked. Recommended a hard start kit but I never bothered putting one on. Hey  Do you remember which model yours is? I'm curious to take a look at their wiring diagram for it.The installer employee was here for about two hours and came to the conclusion that it was the Nest, so he installed a normal thermostat and its fine now. Welp.
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Jul 25, 2021 00:20
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BlackMK4 posted:Hey I've had multiple Nests die on me in interesting ways. They have solid state relays (in the base) that can fail open, closed, partially closed or maybe a combination of all three at different times.
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Jul 25, 2021 00:29
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Motronic posted:I've had multiple Nests die on me in interesting ways. They have solid state relays (in the base) that can fail open, closed, partially closed or maybe a combination of all three at different times. It is kinda funny, a few weeks ago it ignored the 90f cool schedule I have set between 3-6PM (since you can't tell the things to turn the ac off) out of nowhere and then went back to normal the next day. I should have known. The thermostat he installed has a schedule feature, so I think I will end up just keeping that. Original invoice for the AC install listed an electronic thermostat as included in the price, but I never received one or was offered one so that will be my argument if they want to charge me for more than a diagnostic. We shall see. e: no charge
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 00:47
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Was gonna say, 10yr part 2yr labor should mean you don't owe poo poo, unless there's fine print about a trip charge.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:21
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BlackMK4 posted:Hey Was, sold the house a month ago. But I still have the paperwork from it and it listed off all of these:  I liked it a lot, I'm going to have them come out and do a 20 SEER at my new house because the heat pump here is almost as old as the one that blew up last summer. There was also absolutely no mistaking whether it was on low or high - the air handler was also two-stage and the return duct was too small for the amount of air it could pull. At high speed you could hear the air rushing through the filter through most of the house. But it only kicked into high if you set a new temperature that it had to work to get. Maintaining an existing set point never went above low.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:39
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MRC48B posted:Was gonna say, 10yr part 2yr labor should mean you don't owe poo poo, unless there's fine print about a trip charge. Unless it is clearly the customer provided thermostat fails, which if they never asked you about swapping it out is gray area. Though a little good will with that goes a LONG way.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:43
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H110Hawk posted:Unless it is clearly the customer provided thermostat fails, which if they never asked you about swapping it out is gray area. Though a little good will with that goes a LONG way. You are Technically Correct, but every customer is going to expect to be covered for 2 years. Thermostats are cheap, and the install labor budget should include at least one callback.
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Jul 25, 2021 01:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:Was, sold the house a month ago. But I still have the paperwork from it and it listed off all of these: Thank you, I'll take a look at them just for the hell of it. Based on your description I definitely don't have the warp speed intake noise, haha. What company have you been using?
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Jul 25, 2021 01:57
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The loud as gently caress return is because it was undersized, 20x25 return for a 4 ton system. They mentioned it as a potential problem when they installed the new system but I was going to push that off until sometime this year (and ended up moving instead). I've been using Climate Pro. Not the cheapest by a long shot, but when the new unit last year was back ordered a few days, they came out and swapped my outside unit with a used-but-good one they'd pulled from another house, and bodged the gently caress out of the TXV until it all worked well enough to get the house cooled off again. Full disclosure, my wife is friends with the owner of the company so I don't know how much that factored into the emergency fix but from what I've gathered, going above and beyond to limp systems along until the new system is ready isn't unusual for them.
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Jul 25, 2021 03:44
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Hope I am in the right thread, but I am trying to optimize my AC setup. I have a simple window AC unit which has made my top floor apartment liveable in the summer. It manages to cool my two rooms quite well. However, it is mounted in the bedroom window and I sometimes want to prioritize cooling my other room. I figured I would just put a 100mm duct through the door to blow the cooled air in there. Built a nice adapter system with quick release. I have now tried the system and found two issues. One is the fact, that there is a fair bit of condensation on the outside of my tube, which I guess means I should use an insulated tube. The other, more problematic issue lies in the fact that erformance seems extremely reduced. As far as I can guess I am thinking the restriction from the adapter and tube is causing a massive increase in back pressure which the blower fan can't cope with. Pressumably this leads to less airflow, which means the evaporator doesn't 'heat up' fast enough. At least that's my theory why the duty cycle shrinks to 1:17 from basically continous operation of the compressor when I add the ductwork. Right now I see two 'easy' options: Add insulation and a second fan at the end. But I don't know enough about this stuff to be confident that this would actually be the right solution. As far as I understand it, two fans in series increase static pressure, which I think is my problem here. Any advice would be greatly appreciated by this useless hobby HVAC technician. Oh yeah, a picture probably helps, here is an artistic render, just imagine a ~3 meter hose hanging off the end. 
SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 10:38
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window ac units are not designed to do anything other than be stuck in a window frame and run. if you need more cooling in the other room, set up a box fan or ventilator to move air between the two rooms.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:06
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MRC48B posted:window ac units are not designed to do anything other than be stuck in a window frame and run. I don't need *more* cooling, I just want to get the airflow away from my bed.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:23
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This might be an overthinking it issue, but I finally bought replacement return register grilles for my house only to find out there are two types: fixed bar and stamped. The fixed bar is really nice and light aluminum (though expensive), and I read is much less restrictive to airflow than stamped. Only issue is it slides into the wall opening rather than sit over it, which means it hits the stud and sits out maybe an eighth of an inch:  Is fixed bar really a better option for returns? Is it worth trying to make it work with furring strips or whatever I can figure out? If not I can just throw the steel stamped one over the opening: 
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 07:17
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On a a really hot day where the temps reached 100, I was hosting a lunch and had all my curtains open for natural light while running both ovens. I noticed the house felt warmer than usual, and noticed the AC was blowing hot air. The next day, it's functioning fine and blowing cold air. I have the AC people coming, but any ideas as to what it could be? My system dates to the early 2000s,so it's due for replacement. Also, any advice for dealing with home warranty? I submitted a claim on Saturday and still have not heard back. I guess they're closed on weekends?
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Jul 26, 2021 13:30
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I posted this in the fix it fast thread but didn't realize there was an HVAC thread when I did it. I am having some trouble with my central air and am looking for some advice. When I turned on my AC for the first time this season, it didn't run. I realized the furnace blower wasn't turning on properly. It worked fine in the winter when using the heat and last summer when using the AC. The furnace is a Carrier Infinity 96 (model 58MVB). When I opened it up, it was throwing up a Blower Motor Fault code when I turned it on. The fan on the motor turned easily. I turned it back on while still open, and watched the fan turn one way, stop, turn the other way, and then continue this process forever. I followed the troubleshooting manual for fixing this problem (after watching a generic video by Carrier which was very wrong for this furnace, apparently) and am running into some trouble figuring out what exactly I need to do. When I tested the high voltage wires, I had 119/120 volts (the manual calls for 115 volts). However, when I tested the low voltage wires, I was getting 5 vdc. The manual calls for 12 vdc. The manual says if I don't have 12 vdc, I need to replace the variable speed furnace control. This appears to be the main control board in the furnace, but it is called different things in different manuals (troubleshooting, service, installation manuals). Am I correct in thinking I have a control board problem? Unfortunately it's moderately expensive, so I'm hesitant to order one to effect a repair only to have it not work. I also don't really want to hire someone to replace a board I am capable of replacing, marking up the part and charging me several hundred dollars and in labor. Can anyone provide a bit of insight here for me?
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Jul 26, 2021 20:23
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ECM motor troubleshooting is a pain in the dick like this. If you're confident you're measuring correctly, the manual recommendation is probably the way to go. the "motor won't start, shuffles back and forth forever" has needed a replacement motor (bearings poo poo, ecm control detects it) or ecm controller poo poo (falsely detects bad bearings) just to be clear, you are following this chart, and ended up on the highlight?
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Jul 26, 2021 23:57
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Xenix posted:When I tested the high voltage wires, I had 119/120 volts (the manual calls for 115 volts). However, when I tested the low voltage wires, I was getting 5 vdc. The manual calls for 12 vdc Worth noting: on the mains voltage portion, that sort of deviation is normal. The actual power delivered to your house should be 120V on a single phase like that, though depending on a bunch of factors it may be as low as 110V. Them calling out 115 is just aiming for the middle. On the low voltage side, if you're getting 5V and not 12V and you're sure you're probing the right terminals, then yeah that seems like a pretty clear failure.
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Jul 27, 2021 00:14
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PageMaster posted:This might be an overthinking it issue, but I finally bought replacement return register grilles for my house only to find out there are two types: fixed bar and stamped. The fixed bar is really nice and light aluminum (though expensive), and I read is much less restrictive to airflow than stamped. Only issue is it slides into the wall opening rather than sit over it, which means it hits the stud and sits out maybe an eighth of an inch: You're overthinking this - throw whichever one fits best in, and call it a day. Your return "ducts" are studs + drywall, so whatever resistance the grille adds is irrelevant.
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Jul 27, 2021 01:51
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MRC48B posted:ECM motor troubleshooting is a pain in the dick like this. If you're confident you're measuring correctly, the manual recommendation is probably the way to go. The bearings are fine, as far as I can tell. The fan spins freely when I turn it with my fingers. It just won't get up to speed. I'm not using that specific chart, but I am using the 58mvb troubleshooting guide I found here, with my code appearing on page 26. The steps look the same. The 5vdc I'm getting across the red and green terminals makes me think whatever is converting AC power to DC isn't working right and I'm wondering if I could just replace a faulty diode or capacitor, but I have no idea how to find that out.
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Jul 27, 2021 17:02
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So, would this be there correct place ask about geothermal heating and cooling?
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Jul 28, 2021 19:29
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most geo buildings I work on are over 20k square feet, but sure why not.
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Jul 29, 2021 00:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:Oh it will be! Fortunately I only need it for a couple of weeks each year. So uh, how's it going with jankifying your AC?
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Jul 29, 2021 00:52
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Soft Velvety Nose posted:So, would this be there correct place ask about geothermal heating and cooling? Geothermal is awesome, but with the recent improvements in air-source HPs, it's hard to make the $ math work. Maybe the math still works if you live somewhere exceptionally cold, where the only real alternative for the cold days is hydrocarbons, but I doubt it. I really wish geo was cheaper, but I guess digging deep holes always sets a high price floor.
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Jul 29, 2021 01:20
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they don't have to be deep, but then they have to be wide.
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Jul 29, 2021 01:38
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MRC48B posted:most geo buildings I work on are over 20k square feet, but sure why not. We have a 2200 sqft 1950's house (main floor and mostly finished basement). Its time for new heating and cooling and I'm looking at options. I THINK we could do vertical or horizontal. The current federal incentives seem pretty nice and there are some state and utility incentives as well. I think would still be more expensive than traditional HVAC, I haven't had any quotes yet, I'm hoping over the next few weeks. I'm upper midwest, which doesn't seem to be the ideal, but its definitely present here, there are at least three local installers. Pros Very efficient long lasting equipment Environmentally friendly* renewable The equipment is quieter Cons Greater up front costs Any repairs to the coils are expensive Since it all runs on electric you may have a problem if the power goes out in the winter for an extended period.
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Jul 29, 2021 01:38
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B-Nasty posted:Geothermal is awesome, but with the recent improvements in air-source HPs, it's hard to make the $ math work. Maybe the math still works if you live somewhere exceptionally cold, where the only real alternative for the cold days is hydrocarbons, but I doubt it. Yeah, drilling is expensive. But if you have a small piece of property thats the only**** way to do it. If you have a long lot, you can trench it, theoretically doing that part yourself. Saving a lot of money, but the trenches still need to be like 6 or 7 feet deep IIRC. Not *that* big of a deal for a mini excavator, but its kinda deep-ish for one of them. Then you can put your loop in, and grout or maybe you don't even need to grout, though Geothermal grouts are supposed to help with heat transfer. Cover it back up and you've saved thousands over drilling. Still need someone qualified to install the rest of it though. **** Someone once called my company to do some geothermal drilling and their goal was holes only 25 feet deep with (IIRC) rigid pipe installed for the loops. They were going to use "freon" (whatever the gently caress refrigerant motherfuckers were using in about 2011-12 at the time for AC poo poo) rather than the liquid they normally used. I was pretty interested in doing that job, but it never ended up happening.
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Jul 29, 2021 01:41
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that last con isn't unique to geo, I suppose you could run a natural draft boiler and circulator for a while off a battery backup/generator
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Jul 29, 2021 02:03
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Soft Velvety Nose posted:We have a 2200 sqft 1950's house (main floor and mostly finished basement). Its time for new heating and cooling and I'm looking at options. I THINK we could do vertical or horizontal. The current federal incentives seem pretty nice and there are some state and utility incentives as well. I think would still be more expensive than traditional HVAC, I haven't had any quotes yet, I'm hoping over the next few weeks. I'm upper midwest, which doesn't seem to be the ideal, but its definitely present here The Midwest generally has cheap propane, right? I think I'd do a heat pump with a propane furnace for the really cold days. Even buying and burying a tank plus a furnace will be cheaper than laying geo. I rock a heat pump and oil (oil is cheap in the Mid-Atlantic), and I burn less than 100g a season when the HP can't handle it. Unless you have a strong eco adversion to propane, and obviously assuming you don't have natgas, that's probably your cheapest option.
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Jul 29, 2021 02:50
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B-Nasty posted:The Midwest generally has cheap propane, right? I think I'd do a heat pump with a propane furnace for the really cold days. Even buying and burying a tank plus a furnace will be cheaper than laying geo. I rock a heat pump and oil (oil is cheap in the Mid-Atlantic), and I burn less than 100g a season when the HP can't handle it. We do have natural gas. A forced air system will be cheaper. GEO is an intriguing system. Depending on the cost difference is it worth it? We'll have to see what the quotes come to Soft Velvety Nose fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 29, 2021 03:13
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Soft Velvety Nose posted:We do have natural gas. A forced air system will be cheaper. GEO is an intriguing system. Depending on the cost difference is it worth it? We'll have to see what the quotes come to If you have natural gas you should get a combination straight cool natural gas furnace, you live where it gets cold so you're going to get way more life out of your a/c by giving it a break in the winter
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Jul 29, 2021 04:10
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Not *that* big of a deal for a mini excavator, but its kinda deep-ish for one of them. My miniex is basically the smallest thing you can get. It's made to fold down the ROPS and retract the treads so you can get through a 28" doorway to do basement work. (it's my electrical trenching tool) Even that thing will dig deeper than that. This is not the kind of mini you bring to a job like this. You bring a bigger one. That kind of depth is not the slightest concern unless you're hiring billy bob with his 70s backhoe. Motronic fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jul 29, 2021 |
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Jul 29, 2021 06:16
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Soft Velvety Nose posted:We do have natural gas. A forced air system will be cheaper. GEO is an intriguing system. Depending on the cost difference is it worth it? We'll have to see what the quotes come to I highly, highly doubt you'll be able to beat NG. With my area's pricing, a standard air-source heat pump can beat a NG furnace in cost to about 40-45F outside. However, as Ace of Baes implied, it probably is cheaper to just heat with a NG furnace than use the heat pump when you consider wear and tear on the HP. Natural gas is practically free in the US, but I suspect it won't always be so cheap. If we ever get serious about carbon taxes/climate externalities and the like, residential NG is a prime candidate for getting taxed hard. The conversation may be different in 15 years.
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Jul 29, 2021 13:57
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How fast should humidity change inside a house when the HVAC cuts off? I feel like mine rises by about ten percent very quickly once the AC stops running, and it seems more humid than other houses I know that are kept at warm temperatures. Is that normal? Climate: South Carolina
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Jul 30, 2021 02:41
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Hey everyone, is there a general quality tier between the different furnace/AC manufacturers? All the HVAC services around me seem to either be Trane, Lennox, or Carrier. Is there any particular one to avoid or shoot for? Or are the all more or less the same?
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Jul 30, 2021 22:01
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I’m not an hvac professional, but I view all of those brand the same. It’s like picking a domestic truck manufacturer, you have people that swear by a brand when In reality they’re all about the same. I’ve read in this thread that Trane’s supply chain is tighter/more restrictive, so parts can be harder to get. I as a joe homeowner can get all the carrier parts I want pretty easily. All of those brands have several product lines as well. Basic to more expensive multi stage fancy units.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:07
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I've always like Goodman/Amana (Daikin), because they don't mark up their brand, and parts are ubiquitous and cheap. They get a bad rap because anyone can order their systems online, so you get install hackjobs by unqualified contractors. Steve Lav just had a funny video about replacing a Trane blower wheel. At the supply house, the Goodman wheel was identical to the Trane one, except for the fact that Trane wanted $100 more. You know that wheel came off the same Chinese assembly line, it's just a big joke.
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Aug 1, 2021 01:15
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