|
punishedkissinger posted:thanks! ive been basing with mr finishing surfacer 1500 black and then just using white vallejo air color to zenithal. the surfacer gunks up my brush so bad though Badger Stynlrez black acrylic primer is godlike, super forgiving and covers beautifully
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 17:23 |
|
|
# ? May 31, 2024 12:20 |
|
vallejo mecha primer is great too
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 18:12 |
|
punishedkissinger posted:thanks! ive been basing with mr finishing surfacer 1500 black and then just using white vallejo air color to zenithal. the surfacer gunks up my brush so bad though if you aren't already I find thinning Mr Surfacer 1500 about 50:50 with levelling thinner to be close to the perfect primer but I reserve that more for scale models and rely on molotow black or stynylrez for minis.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 18:16 |
|
Badger is having a Non-convention sale for anyone that's looking for a discount on an airbrush. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Special_Offers.asp
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 18:19 |
|
Painted up a dwarf Artificer lady I feel like those are the best eyes, I've EVER made.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 20:45 |
|
SurreptitiousMuffin posted:So, this is a bit embarassing but here goes:
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 21:11 |
|
punishedkissinger posted:people just using liquitex white acrylic ink? yeah but also shout out to schmincke transparent white ink because it's zinc based instead of titanium based so it's easier to mix and use for highlighting instead of just shooting pure white Long story short for people who don't know, titanium is very opaque and tinting which is why white paint and ink on top of a colour will just blow out all the saturation. Zinc is the opposite so it's awful as a pure white but it layers/mixes very well.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 21:50 |
|
I'm thinking about doing an army on Necromunda bases, does anyone have any resources for facsimiles of that style for bike bases and larger circles?
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 21:55 |
|
Primer conversation: still in a situation that precludes spray priming of any sort (including airbrush). What's the gold standard for brush primer nowadays? Still something from Vallejo? I used to use gesso (on metal miniatures, of all things) to good effect, but I have my doubts about how it'll do on the larger, flatter surfaces of Warhammer stuff, so keeping my options open. Plus I'll have to figure out something better than gesso if I ever do vehicles.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 22:02 |
|
Do Badger airbrushes have their own valve for connecting to hoses? I bought a Patriot 105 (two days ago of course) and it occurs to me that the hose I have from my rechargeable compressor might not actually fit it without some sort of convertor. I haven't been able to get a clear answer from the Google on this.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 22:24 |
|
Winklebottom posted:I entered my local GW's diorama competition and came in second. Very pleased, especially since I thought the third place entry was better than mine and first place was way above my painting level. No real prize, other than getting to display in their shop window, but it was fun trying something new. From a while back, but the guy who painted this got some artwork commissioned, which I think is pretty neat.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 23:21 |
|
rantmo posted:Do Badger airbrushes have their own valve for connecting to hoses? I bought a Patriot 105 (two days ago of course) and it occurs to me that the hose I have from my rechargeable compressor might not actually fit it without some sort of convertor. I haven't been able to get a clear answer from the Google on this.
|
# ? Jul 24, 2021 23:30 |
|
rantmo posted:Do Badger airbrushes have their own valve for connecting to hoses? I bought a Patriot 105 (two days ago of course) and it occurs to me that the hose I have from my rechargeable compressor might not actually fit it without some sort of convertor. I haven't been able to get a clear answer from the Google on this. You're gonna want one of these. Just did another round of priming, for my forgefiend. Been getting kind of a grainy texture on a lot of the pieces that I'm wondering if I should find concerning. It also seems like the paint doesn't want to cover up corners/crevices well. What do yall think?
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 00:28 |
|
This is definitely the biggest thing I've ever 3D printed. It may be the biggest thing I've ever painted that wasn't a Gundam.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 02:39 |
|
Seeing the Badger sale and seeing airbrushes used to great effect in more and more videos makes me want to start looking into getting one. I see that there's a lot of information on different companies and models out there, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the beginner "Airbrush + Compressor" all in one unit that charges with a USB plug. You seem to be able to pick them up for $60-$80 on Amazon, and it looked like a good way to get a beginner airbrush without laying out a lot of money. I know with these things you get what you pay for, but as I'm already low on space and don't have a lot of technical know how, I could skip the whole separate compressor and hoses part of the equation. Any information on these models would be much appreciated.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 03:49 |
|
I have the NoName and as near as I can tell it works really well. I say as near as I can tell because it seems like the airbrush that came in the kit I got from Spray Gunner is so cheap that it's non-functional. I suppose it's possible that I'm so inept at using it that I have rendered it useless but I'm feeling increasingly confident that it was not user error that is to blame for it completely not working. In any event it certainly pumps air and hopefully does so well enough that, with a proper airbrush, it will actually paint too.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 05:42 |
|
Eschatos posted:You're gonna want one of these. Yeah, it shouldn’t look like that. Someone with more expertise than me might be able to tell you what the problem is. It might be the primer, since you’re using a non-black and those can be problematic, especially white. It looks like it might be that it’s drying in the air, before hitting the model - which can give a splatter like grainy surface. It can be caused by using too high psi, not being thinned enough (possibly too much?), and/or distance from model. E: might also be the distance from the model, too far away and the paint can dry in the air. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Jul 25, 2021 |
# ? Jul 25, 2021 05:54 |
|
I think I'm going to order another badger brush. I have the sotar 2020, what's another good one to compliment that? Something a little less fine so priming is a bit easier maybe?
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 15:11 |
|
As a variation of the same question, I'm really interested in picking up an airbrush as well and those sale prices look really enticing. Is the Patriot a 'beginner friendly' model, or should I be looking at the Sotar or the... Krome?
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 15:30 |
|
The 105 patriot is a great beginner friendly brush. It's 5mm, so bigger than the Sotar, great for large coverage and priming. I do gunpla mostly so not miniature scale, but I can vouch for it being a great brush in general
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 15:39 |
|
You both most assuredly want the Patriot 105.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 16:28 |
|
One more maybe dumb question while I'm already on a roll with them. I dug out my old paints from storage to see what can be salvaged. The Vallejo stuff looks like pic related, and it seems like it's mostly shaking back to mixed when I try. The Citadel stuff I rely on for most of my schemes, on the other hand... I can't tell what's still fine and what's hosed, and the pot design isn't helping considering I can't see poo poo in them. Aside from Ceramite White which looked like a cube of feta cheese sitting in milk. Is there an easy way to tell what can be saved? Should I just bite the bullet and rebuy the ~7-10 paints I'll likely be using in the near future to avoid any potential fuckups from secretly bad paint?
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 16:36 |
|
SkyeAuroline posted:Aside from Ceramite White which looked like a cube of feta cheese sitting in milk. So, a normal pot of Ceramite White then? My suggestion would be try mixing them with a toothpick and perhaps adding a drop or two of distilled water to the pots if they seem to stir but are otherwise thick. If they're a solid lump they're probably useless. Edit: You don't want to use tap water as that can spoil the paint in the long-run, but that may be a moot point either way. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jul 25, 2021 |
# ? Jul 25, 2021 16:43 |
|
grassy gnoll posted:You both most assuredly want the Patriot 105. Agreed. I was thinking of ordering a krome too, what's it's general use?
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 16:57 |
|
PoptartsNinja posted:So, a normal pot of Ceramite White then? Gotcha. I do at least still have a small mountain of airbrush thinner that appears to be in perfectly good shape, if that's a substitute for the distilled water here. May still replace the base colors just to be safe, but I have to find the other half of where my paints went first...
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 17:03 |
|
The goal is to get some moisture in if the pots are drying out, and then see if they can be mixed back to a normal consistency. If they're just thick they're probably fine, if they're starting to turn into a solid polymer they're pretty dead.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 17:52 |
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:Agreed. I was thinking of ordering a krome too, what's it's general use?
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 18:40 |
|
Unit of 20 Grave Guard.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 19:17 |
|
I have made a very poor financial decision and have finally ordered some Warhammer minis, a start collecting (Beastclaw Raiders) box. Do not pray for me, I'm already dead. Pix to (eventually) follow
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 19:18 |
|
Apparently blood for the blood god is the most valuable liquid in my metropolitan area and is sold out everywhere so this guys goes unbloodied until there is a restock. I'm not super happy with the head veins but this was just a cheap model to practice airbrushing with so whatever. I am pleased with getting better with glazing (red tips on the tentacles and knuckles). Before I was brushing from the dark end to the light end and using the brush tip but as per Miniac light side to dark with the side of the brush is the way to go.
|
# ? Jul 25, 2021 22:36 |
|
god drat it, thats what I get for impulse buying an airbrush off amazon instead of checking this thread can someone reassure me that I wont kill my cat with fumes or something if my ventilation game is weak
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 00:25 |
|
Unoriginal Name posted:god drat it, thats what I get for impulse buying an airbrush off amazon instead of checking this thread I did the same thing and ended up buying both a p100 mask and an airbrush booth. Probably overkill but you only have one set of lungs.
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 00:41 |
|
If you can smell paint then it's in your lungs
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 00:45 |
|
I got a foldup airbrush booth and I've got a P100, Im just worried about trying to do it in the living room
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 00:56 |
|
For those looking to buy their first airbrush, I have four badgers an this is my personal opinion in the order that I purchased them. Patriot 105 - This is my workhorse brush, I do all my priming, basecoating and varnishing with it. It's rugged as all hell and super forgiving. I've let paint dry in it overnight and just gave it a good flushing and it works just fine again. If you're patient and practice you can get very fine lines and details with it. I painted this guy completely with a 105 Renegade Krome - I never use this brush, it's big and heavy (and I have big man meat mitts) and it's super finicky, I have a terrible time getting paint to the right consistency to flow through it. I tried using it with a larger needle but it was still a pain in the rear end to use. SOTAR 20/20 - This thing will lay down the thinnest lines, it's small but even my big hands can still be precise with it. It has a small paint cup so you're never going to use it for priming or basecoating. I use this brush when I'm getting super detailed. You really have to thin your paints properly to get results with this brush, but it's not as finicky as the Krome. Patriot 105 eXtreme - This is my second most used brush, it's basically a regular patriot with a finer detail needle and some extra upgrades that make it easier to handle than the standard brush. I use this for most of my details, it can't quite put down as fine a line as the SOTAR but it's pretty close.
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 02:28 |
|
I just wanted to chime in that I do prime with my sotar. It's not ideal but it's honestly fine priming small batches if you only have money for one brush and are worried about being able to prime.
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 02:43 |
|
thank you thread. i have a long road ahead of me but ive come a long ways already forgive the mold lines. i will do better next time. very happy with how my faces are starting to look. also finally starting using colors rather than drab browns and metals.
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 03:13 |
|
Bucnasti posted:I painted this guy completely with a 105 This wasn’t the product of a CK Studios airbrushing class by any chance, was it? That particular paint job looks incredibly familiar.
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 03:52 |
|
Harvey Mantaco posted:I just wanted to chime in that I do prime with my sotar. It's not ideal but it's honestly fine priming small batches if you only have money for one brush and are worried about being able to prime. Define 'small batch' for someone who doesn't do a battalion at once. I take it 2-3 28mm or one 120mm figure wouldn't be too much to prime with a SOTAR?
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 04:19 |
|
|
# ? May 31, 2024 12:20 |
|
PoptartsNinja posted:The goal is to get some moisture in if the pots are drying out, and then see if they can be mixed back to a normal consistency. If they're just thick they're probably fine, if they're starting to turn into a solid polymer they're pretty dead. Good news is, out of my couple dozen Vallejo paints, only one was a lost cause (Foundation White, surprising nobody) and one was a potential save I hosed up (Magic Blue... exploded - not ideal over a carpeted area, and I'm gonna have to find a small floor mat for right there once I get a seat and can start working). Rest seem to have at least enough of a useful consistency for glazing or further rescue. I'm still working through the Citadel stock and seeing what's lost causes so I can put a new list together, but for the most part these seem to be saved too. And I found all my old supplies, too, including a perfectly fine stockpole of greenstuff. If it weren't for reports of Citadel lids popping open on vortex mixers, one of those would be sounding very nice right now, if expensive. Further thought: think I've decided on accenting the Incubi Darkness with some bone-colored detailing and doing any future fabrics in a burgundy red. Plus the orange lenses. 5 push fit Marines en route to get back in the swing and test some schemes on.
|
# ? Jul 26, 2021 04:42 |