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gileadexile posted:I've also found out I'm steering it wrong. I'm not countersteering like I thought, I'm apparently pivot turning? Using my hips and lower body at lower speeds on cornering and then going into a semi tuck and THEN countersteering as the corners require? Is this wrong? I guess it's something I've brought from my 3 and 4 wheeler days when I used to do dumb stunts like riding around sideways on dirt or two tires in the yard. also post ur bike it sounds cool edit: sometimes i will steer a bit in the wrong way i guess to get the bike to turn over into the way i actually want it to go, like a mini scando flick also just watched flick of the wrist II, some useful info i think numberoneposter fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 05:53
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Sounds cooler than it is, I assure you. When I got it home, I set to work immediately. It was like some sort of half assed bobber. I put the center stand back on, along with the stock tail light and plate holder. There are a few small pieces I'm still looking to replace, chiefly the front and rear indicators. It currently has some chintzy looking bullet shaped chrome pieces and I hate em. I've changed out the handlebars with a lower and wider set, but I had to use some risers, as it was just a bit too low for me to ride comfortably. I also bought a period Corbin seat, but the foam is old and the cover is cracking. I'm going to try to get a local upholsterer to redo it with maybe a gel layer at some point in the future. Let's see, what else. Oh! Found out that the exhaust is a hackjob. It has a pair of Screaming Eagle "mufflers" on it, which don't seal tight and had no silencers inside. So I bought a set and put those in, as any sort of used exhaust is REALLY expensive. The front wheel has been painted at some point in the past, so I need to take that off to match the rear. Also I suspect it's from a different bike or year, but I haven't really sat down to figure it all out yet. I think it's a neat bike, because it's my first road bike and it's old and different. I'd thought about a proper thread when I first bought it, but kinda ran out of steam when I started working on it, and didn't thing it was worth a whole thread on the forum for an almost 40 year old bike that wasn't even running well. I've had lots of ups and downs with it, but if I could get it running well, get the weird bouncy feeling at 35 mph to go away and make myself feel sure than my cam chain isn't chewing itself to pieces, I'd be happy as could be and not want a V65 sometime in the future. As it is, I'm just trying to keep it safe and reliable to enjoy. Edited to add most recent pic I have. 
gileadexile fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 06:24
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After a lot of searching around, I am now the owner of a red Ninja 400 with that sweet sweet ABS. Thank you thread.
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Jul 19, 2021 19:56
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Jul 20, 2021 00:42
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magiccarpet posted:After a lot of searching around, I am now the owner of a red Ninja 400 with that sweet sweet ABS. Thank you thread. You done good.
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Jul 20, 2021 10:19
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You have chosen wisely! Were you able to find one used? Post a bunch of pictures please
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Jul 20, 2021 18:19
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 Weeeeeeeeeeeeeee 1/3 of the way to the first service. Looking at the manual, it indicates that I will need to replace the engine oil and the engine oil filter. I'd like to start learning to wrench on my own bike - may as well start at the beginning as far as I'm concerned. That being said, am I missing out on anything if I don't take it back to the dealer for the first service?
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Jul 21, 2021 00:15
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If you need to get warranty service later and you didn't do all the work at the dealer, they may try to weasel out of it by claiming you caused the problem by failing to keep up with maintenance. It is illegal to require dealer maintenance for warranty service in most places, but they might try to pull it anyway. Keep the receipts for the oil and filter in a folder somewhere and document what you did and the date in a little notebook (this is a good idea in general). Other than that, no, nothing to worry about. Oil is easy. Get one of the plastic oil pans and wear rubber gloves.
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Jul 21, 2021 00:47
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I just let them do my first service for exactly that reason, but I’ve done every service since. I gather the first service is supposed to be a check to make sure everything is still tightened from the factory etc, but I’d be surprised if my dealer didn’t just change the oil, filter, check air pressure and call it a day.
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Jul 21, 2021 01:50
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I am going to the dealer for the first 5 years because it extends my warranty to 5 years.
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Jul 21, 2021 12:50
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I want to say a valve clearance check used to be part of the routine, but probably not anymore. I think they change fluid, check cable tensions, and bleed brakes and that's about it.
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Jul 21, 2021 14:33
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Yeah for the price I paid there is no way they did a valve clearance check unless they threw hours of work in for free out of the goodness of their hearahahaha oh man I almost made it
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Jul 21, 2021 14:54
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Rolo posted:Hey how’s the hand? It's becoming a lot more useful, which is very nice! Although it's dumb, I can bench press with it or pick up something heavy if it has a handle, but then I'll have trouble squeezing the last bit of toothpaste out or unscrewing a lid. I thought at the time the doctor's estimate of six months was a bit high, but it's looking like he knows what he's talking about. It is funny though because I'm out of town for three months for work and I'm using a local gym which is more of a meathead gym than a planet fitness-type gym (it looks like it would be very easy to find steroids here), but then I show up and I'm bench pressing all of 95 lbs (but high reps) because it's all my thumb can handle. I'm taking it very cautious though because if I tear all those tendons again I'm just saying gently caress it and replacing my hand with a hook, that healing process sucked. I still have some big scars from the road rash so seeing as this is the newbies thread, remember to wear proper pants everyone. I was about to buy some Tobacco pants but wanted to drop 10lbs of covid weight first before I spent $300, but then once I crashed I would have gladly spent $300 to avoid the road rash.
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Jul 21, 2021 19:40
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Martytoof posted:I just let them do my first service for exactly that reason, but I’ve done every service since. I gather the first service is supposed to be a check to make sure everything is still tightened from the factory etc, but I’d be surprised if my dealer didn’t just change the oil, filter, check air pressure and call it a day. Correct. Gorson posted:I want to say a valve clearance check used to be part of the routine, but probably not anymore. I think they change fluid, check cable tensions, and bleed brakes and that's about it. Lol no. They do the barest minimum possible and give the lowest paid, least experienced guy there the job because it's an easy softball thing he can bumble through without missing anything vital cause the bike is new and under warranty anyway. Oil and filter and maybe a chain tension is what you get. SEKCobra posted:I am going to the dealer for the first 5 years because it extends my warranty to 5 years. Add up the cost of all those dealer services. Then investigate the cost of a worst case scenario, basically an engine replacement for your bike. Then consider the likelihood of something like that actually happening. Warranties usually don't make mathematical sense but if it's Italian or something it might still be worthwhile just for probability's sake.
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Jul 21, 2021 20:05
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Slavvy posted:Correct. Oh I get that, but I figure as much as I am babying my bike it's best to just leave all the 'worrysome' service stuff to the dealership and if something get's hosed it's their problem. I'm still gonna provide my own oil, that's for sure.
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Jul 21, 2021 20:36
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Slavvy posted:Add up the cost of all those dealer services. Then investigate the cost of a worst case scenario, basically an engine replacement for your bike. Then consider the likelihood of something like that actually happening. Warranties usually don't make mathematical sense but if it's Italian or something it might still be worthwhile just for probability's sake.
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Jul 25, 2021 23:08
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Had an awesome ride today but forgot to take any pics. Welp see ya.
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Jul 26, 2021 00:01
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numberoneposter posted:Had an awesome ride today but forgot to take any pics. Welp see ya. No one is following the number one rule of the newbie thread  quote:get a GoPro
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Jul 26, 2021 01:41
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Ur all banned for no GoPro
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Jul 26, 2021 02:15
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No gopro, but here is what I recorded from my phone in a ram mount https://i.imgur.com/rAhuCHc.mp4 And here is me doing figure 8s https://i.imgur.com/Lh0qo1g.mp4
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Jul 26, 2021 02:57
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T Zero posted:No gopro, but here is what I recorded from my phone in a ram mount Man that is shockingly bad quality. I bought a GoPro Max a few months ago. I liked the 360 aspect of it but in reality it’s kind of a pain to deal with. I’d definitely recommend getting a Hero 9 instead unless you have a specific need for 360. I like the Horizon Leveling a lot, but again the Hero 9 can do that. Hero 8 and earlier cannot. That’s my GoPro review.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:17
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Thats why people don't recommend putting a phone you care about on your bars. RIP phone camera.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:25
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Russian Bear posted:Thats why people don't recommend putting a phone you care about on your bars. RIP phone camera. lol fr
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Jul 26, 2021 03:28
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T Zero posted:No gopro, but here is what I recorded from my phone in a ram mount HAMMOND HAMMOND
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Jul 26, 2021 03:29
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Midjack posted:HAMMOND Don’t think for even a second that I don’t have that link handy at all times https://twitter.com/distortedvideos/status/1217486565846462464?s=21
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Jul 26, 2021 04:08
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Toe Rag posted:Man that is shockingly bad quality.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:29
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Toe Rag posted:Man that is shockingly bad quality. Yep. The low res is because I downscaled it quite a bit to keep the upload small, but the jello effect is because cell phone cameras use a rolling shutter. You're also seeing the phone's image stabilization struggling to keep up. My understanding is the vibrations from the bike overtax it and can kill your phone camera (I only recorded a couple minutes). I still use my phone on the bike to navigate occasionally, but don't ever turn on the camera. The bike itself is a one-cylinder, so there's that aspect too. If I uploaded a version with sound, you'd hear the rpm changing in sync with the video. Anyway, a GoPro or something like it is on my wishlist. Still trying to see what the optimal setup is for a just-in-case dashcam.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:36
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RightClickSaveAs posted:I finally got a GoPro after using lesser known brands for a long while. I got the Hero 7 because it's cheap, can mount with a chin strap so I don't have to worry about adhesives, and I just want it for recording interesting or stupid things that happen. Biggest issue so far is a short battery life, I think I get around 1 hour at 1080p 60fps, I picked up an extra battery I'll just carry around on longer rides. Definitely nice having a removable battery option. This?  It doesn't interfere with your visor seal? I might run my Max in "hero" mode next go around and see if it makes it less of a pain. The GoPro software is absolutely terrible. T Zero posted:Anyway, a GoPro or something like it is on my wishlist. Still trying to see what the optimal setup is for a just-in-case dashcam. I have a Sena 10c evo on my helmet for a dash-cam style recording. The battery life is ~90min which works for commuting, but otherwise you need to figure something out. They make actual dashcams for motorcycles. Here's a video I saw the other day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMnu9RvWauQ Trying to install it on a smaller, especially naked, bike might be a bit of a struggle. There are probably others but I haven't looked into it!
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Jul 26, 2021 04:44
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The mounted dashcam looks like a fantastic idea, way outside my skill level to set something like that up though.Toe Rag posted:This? The Sena was the other option I was looking at but I wanted to give the Gopro a try, see if I liked the strap mount better. e: and oh yeah the GoPro software is garbage, I just disabled everything and transfer files with a USB cable to my computer if needed, otherwise the card gets formatted after every ride.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:56
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Ive got a Sony AS50 on my helmet, its good enough but quality could be better. If you want to vlog your rides, you will need a separate thing to record your voice on, it doesnt have a mic input. Ive mounted on the side of my helmet, and it works fine, just get a bit of my helmet in the frame. Sony is in a bad place with action cams right now I feel and I would advise getting a GoPro. I think a chest harness would be better to mount your cam or something on the side of your helmet.
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Jul 26, 2021 06:20
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T Zero posted:You're also seeing the phone's image stabilization struggling to keep up. My understanding is the vibrations from the bike overtax it and can kill your phone camera (I only recorded a couple minutes). I still use my phone on the bike to navigate occasionally, but don't ever turn on the camera. I thought the vibrations from the bike will kill that part of your camera whether you're recording or not, and even just mounting it to your bike was bad. Not 100% on that though and I'm sure someone here knows the answer.
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Jul 26, 2021 07:05
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Toe Rag posted:Man that is shockingly bad quality. Hero 8 got stabilization.
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Jul 26, 2021 07:12
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MomJeans420 posted:I thought the vibrations from the bike will kill that part of your camera whether you're recording or not, and even just mounting it to your bike was bad. Not 100% on that though and I'm sure someone here knows the answer. I've replaced two image stabilizers in phones I had on RAM mounts, so yes I can confirm that you don't need to be recording for it to kill your camera. I'll forever rep QuadLock since that mount somehow protected my phone while every other part of my motorcycle was destroyed, and they have a shock mount to protect the camera. Edit: Actually that being said, I still won't put my phone on my handlebars unless I really need to. I just tether an old phone without service to my actual phone and keep that in my backpack. Strife fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 14:46
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I have the QL shock mount and I'm still not sure I really want to risk my primary phone on it. I have the luxury of having a nice work phone IDGAF about so I use that for Waze and music on the bike but honestly if I didn't I'd just pony up a hundred bucks for some lovely throw-away android garbage phone and tether data off my nice phone in my pocket or under the seat. That's obviously just my two cents but I'm really paranoid about my good phone staying 100% usable 
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Jul 26, 2021 14:49
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Hero 8 got stabilization. Horizon Leveling is different from stablization. This is the exact same clip, one with it on and the other with it off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5TO3TYLy_Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyliPooAj3k I personally prefer with it on as I think it is more similar to your actual visual experience. Also, at least with the Max, when off there is a bit of lag with the camera reframing/following, because it's still trying out what to do (stabilize or change orientation).
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Jul 26, 2021 17:44
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I think my TU250 has a borked clutch. I found a reddit post with my bike where the poster is having almost all the same problems I havequote:BIKE: Suzuki TU250X 2013, 1600 miles, very good condition, bought it 3 months ago, learner bike for previous owner, chain is slightly loose, everything else looks very good. I have even less mileage on mine and I'm having the same problems, specifically the highlighted ones. I guess it's good I got it through a dealer?
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Jul 26, 2021 20:09
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  newbie threadAll of that sounds like normal motorcycle stuff except the slipping under load, which is probably because your clutch cable is too tight. Loosen the barrel adjuster so that you have like half an inch of slop in the lever before the cable gets pulled. Turn the bars lock to lock both directions and make sure the slop doesn't get taken up as the cable gets pulled around. Go and ride it like that and see if it's better. If so, you can mess with the adjustment to make it tighter while ensuring that the clutch cable always has a little free play. e: okay, more detail -- - clutch slipping under load is not normal behavior so that needs to be addressed. - it is normal for the bike to shift with only partial clutch application, especially on something small and low-powered like this. all you need to do is briefly break the power coming from the engine. a tap with two fingers is usually enough, and with good technique you can upshift without the clutch at all. (slipping out of gear instantly can also be a symptom of a tight clutch cable). - motorcycle transmissions are clunky and unsynchronized and snap into gear more noticeably than car transmissions do. probably normal clunking. having to let the clutch out most of the way before power is applied is the natural flip side of only having to pull it in a little bit to interrupt power. (and a symptom of a tight clutch cable) - same as above, clunking is normal, especially at a stop. sometimes you cannot shift unless you slip the clutch a little and roll forwards a few inches while pushing on the shifter. - normal to sometimes have difficulty getting into neutral if you're doing this at a stop. use the above technique and roll forwards a touch while applying light pressure and it will slip in. difficulty with 1-2 shift while rolling could be ... a symptom of misadjusted clutch cable. - whirring sound is normal because of your straight cut primary drive gears. it's only noticeable in lower gears because when you are going faster you don't hear it over the wind noise. lots of other little mechanical sound in motorcycles too that are normal, you just notice them because the engine is three feet away from your ears. - bad engine braking is, once again, also a side effect of slipping clutch. It is extraordinarily unlikely that there is anything wrong with your clutch on a small Suzuki straight out of the factory. Japanese bikes are made well and your engine design is fifty years old and has all the problems worked out. Mess with the cable and report results. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 20:15
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That reads like someone who can't ride very well and is blaming the bike. What they're saying is that it simultaneously slips too much but also doesn't disengage fully, which is impossible. Everything about that post screams 'i can't ride and this is why it's not my fault'. Check your clutch adjustment. You should have about 5mm worth of free play in the lever (measure the gap that forms between the lever and the pivot) before you start to actually pull on the cable. The friction zone should be somewhere halfway out from the bar but don't get too hung up on this. Put the bike in third gear and relatively low speed, let the clutch out fully and whack the throttle open; watch for the rpm going up while the bike doesn't accelerate accordingly, if that happens it's slipping either from the cable being over-adjusted or something being wrong with the friction plates themselves. If you get the bike hot and try to find neutral at a stop, it can be difficult especially on small cheap bikes, but you should still be able to do it. If you can't and it's really difficult to get out of first or second, the cable is too loose and you aren't fully disengaging the clutch. Bike gearboxes are sequential and non-synchronized, many people have the expectation of being able to choose whatever gear they want when the bike isn't moving. It doesn't work like that, even going from neutral to first and back can sometimes require rolling the bike back and forth a bit because the gears just happen to have not lined up right.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:20
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Slavvy posted:If you get the bike hot and try to find neutral at a stop, it can be difficult Also, why is this? I've always noticed that shifting gets worse when the bike is too hot but I don't know why. Something about the expansion of the clutch plates? Oil drag changing as the viscosity decreases?
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Jul 26, 2021 20:39
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I'm pretty sure it's oil drag + heat yeah. If you think about it as the plates get hot and expand, the amount of clearance when they're disengaged reduces. But shift drum detent design and quality also seems to have an effect; I've never met a hyosung that could find a hot neutral easily, I've never met a Honda that couldn't, most bikes are in-between. I think certain designs are too 'eager' to slip into gear and jump over the inter-gear gap, and then you've got gear linkage slop to contend with as well. Fwiw I have never seen a not-faulty dry clutch Ducati that couldn't find neutral.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:45
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