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OC is just an out of the box overclock (which most will be entirely capable of regardless). ygou can turn it down/off if you're concerned about thermals. at 1440p i would probably suggest a 3070, but a 3060ti will be fine - it, the 3070 and 3070ti are all pretty close in terms of performance.
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Jul 23, 2021 22:19
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njsykora posted:You download the Windows 10 installation media tool from the Microsoft website, then use that to create a bootable USB drive. When buying a prebuilt with the OS installed, do you have to add the license key for that installation to your MS account, so you can then download the install image? I'm looking through my MS account and I can't find any option like this. CoolCab posted:ANIME ACKBAR: that's not a terrible deal but it's more than i would spend on a 3070 and 3700X; i'm in the UK but I could find some closer to 1836 with straight currency conversion, although the storage is a little worse. for gaming the CPU is overkill and a 5600X would do better (better single core performance and 6 is enough cores basically) but it's far from awful and if you have a productivity role it could be justified. quote:16 is the sweet spot for gaming, adding another kit is as easy as buying the same kind of ram and popping them in there and turning the XMP on again.
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Jul 24, 2021 03:12
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Are arctic P12 still the go-to moderately priced radiator fans? I'm using ML120 which are actually quite performant for radiator fans at low speeds when the Maglev bearings are extremely quiet, but I've looked into trying out the P12 because I can get them for reasonably cheap and they seem to have better perf/noise over 1000rpm (the ml fans are known to get loud at high speeds). I had Vardar fans before (EK's GT clone), and the ML fans were much nicer subjectively with the smooth ml bearing noise. BurritoJustice fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 07:48
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CoolCab posted:OC is just an out of the box overclock (which most will be entirely capable of regardless). ygou can turn it down/off if you're concerned about thermals. at 1440p i would probably suggest a 3070, but a 3060ti will be fine - it, the 3070 and 3070ti are all pretty close in terms of performance. That's good to know about the OC, I was worried it was like an always-on thing. I just remembered I might have a way of saving like 20% on anything, so I'll look into that too. Is the Radeon out of the question? If it's similar performance as the 3070 duo but for less money, that sounds good, but it feels like there's a catch.
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Jul 24, 2021 08:00
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Serperoth posted:Is the Radeon out of the question? If it's similar performance as the 3070 duo but for less money, that sounds good, but it feels like there's a catch. The 6700xt trades blows with the 3070, usually coming off marginally worse, in pure rasterisation. Where it definitely lags behind the 30 series cards is in its raytracing performance. Also nvidia's cards have DLSS which for the moment is a more advanced and widely supported upscaling method that renders the game at a lower resolution while using AI cores to upscale the image back to 1440p/4k, enabling much higher frame rates than if you were running those resolutions natively, with almost no difference to image quality (and in some cases actually having better fine details). AMD have just released their version, FSR, which while looking promising is still in its first release and will take a while to mature and gain wide support. Also FSR can be used by any GPU whereas DLSS requires RTX cards with their dedicated AI cores. The other area that the 30 series cards are outright better is in their suite of AI accelerated features that mainly benefit streamers - automatic green screening, removing audio noise from your microphone, etc. How much any of that matters or is worth the price difference is up to you. In terms of actual price, most of the GPUs you listed are still twice what the RRP should be, although I know in smaller EU states that if there's no official sellers then you'll never see the RRP anyway. The 3070ti is actually the least scalped of them all there, although the card itself is generally regarded as one of the worst value of the 30 series (at RRP) because it offers limited improvement over the 3070. For cheaper than the 3070 though then yes obviously it's a better deal. The 3060ti in normal times is one of the best value cards in that lineup and is capable of the 1440p high refresh rate gaming you're after, so I'd pick that one, unless you can get the additional 20% off you mentioned in which case the 3070ti would be a no-brainer. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 09:03
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BurritoJustice posted:Are arctic P12 still the go-to moderately priced radiator fans? I'm not using mine on radiators but I do know I just replaced the two stock coolermaster fans that came with my nr200p with arctic p12s and now my overall system noise is whisper quiet even under load.
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Jul 24, 2021 09:17
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Butterfly Valley posted:The 6700xt trades blows with the 3070, usually coming off marginally worse, in pure rasterisation. Where it definitely lags behind the 30 series cards is in its raytracing performance. Also nvidia's cards have DLSS which for the moment is a more advanced and widely supported upscaling method that renders the game at a lower resolution while using AI cores to upscale the image back to 1440p/4k, enabling much higher frame rates than if you were running those resolutions natively, with almost no difference to image quality (and in some cases actually having better fine details). AMD have just released their version, FSR, which while looking promising is still in its first release and will take a while to mature and gain wide support. Also FSR can be used by any GPU whereas DLSS requires RTX cards with their dedicated AI cores. That's some useful info about the Radeon comparison, looks looks like Nvidia is the way to go then. With 3070 prices not having any deals, it looks like it's between the 60 Ti at 840 euro, and the 70 Ti at 940, both prices before the discount. After the discount it's looking like 680 and 760. Like you said, RRP is basically impossible here anyway so I know I'd be looking at inflated prices compared to US. It feels like getting one model of card ahead for an 80 euro difference is pretty good, plus there's more sellers for the 70 Ti (only one for the 60 Ti). Honestly I kinda wish there were some deals on 3070s but that's not looking likely at this time. Oh well, I'll confirm about the discount and go for the 70 Ti then, thank you for the help
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Jul 24, 2021 11:44
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i think they're all based on the same original die, or something? like i know the 3060ti is a "cut down" 3070 but i don't really understand it, conceptually. long story short they are very similar, and i don't even think the delta between the 3060ti and 3070ti is all that big? generally the 3060ti is considered the better price/performance option but if it's in budget i think a 3070ti for 80 euros is a trade i would take personally. ymmv.
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Jul 24, 2021 12:06
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At FE MSRP values, The 3060 Ti is the price to performance king this generation, but the 3070 isn't too far behind and is a much better 1440p card. At the prices given, with the 3070 Ti being just 12% more expensive than the 3060 Ti, that's a much better value proposition. The 3060 Ti really doesn't make much sense in this scenario.CoolCab posted:i think they're all based on the same original die, or something? like i know the 3060ti is a "cut down" 3070 but i don't really understand it, conceptually. long story short they are very similar, and i don't even think the delta between the 3060ti and 3070ti is all that big? Basically, the 3060 uses the GA106 chip; the 3060 Ti, 3070, and 3070 Ti use the GA104 chip; and the 3080, 3080 Ti, and 3090 use the GA102 chip. The basic version of this (because I don't 100% understand the fine details myself) is that microchip manufacturing is an inexact artform, and even on the same assembly line, the quality can vary quite a bit from chip to chip. Microchip companies will test and grade each chip and then basically use the best chips for the best cards and the lesser chips for the lesser cards. They then tinker with the chips to disable cores on a hardware level so users can't just "upgrade" chips in firmware/vbios, though it hasn't always been this way. Like 18 years ago (jesus), a lot of people turned some inexpensive Radeon 9000-series cards into some much higher-end ones by hacking the bios. Those were fun times. The performance delta between the 3060 Ti and 3070 is fairly large actually despite them using the same die because the 3070 has access to many more cores.
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Jul 24, 2021 12:28
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I'd also chime in and say that the 3070 ti seems like a no-brainer to me there.
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Jul 24, 2021 13:15
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100% the 3070 Ti at those prices. It’s not even a question unless that extra 80 euro is out of budget, and frankly if it is I’d pull the 80 from somewhere else to do it.
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Jul 24, 2021 14:43
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Further looking into it suggests that the discount is only for laptops, tablets, mobile phones, and consoles. Still a 100 euro difference between the 3060 Ti and 3070 Ti, they're just both 100 euro more expensive than original, and it seems like the jump in performance is worth the jump in price. If I could've made room for the 80 euro difference, I can make it for the 100. As to budget, I got a saving of 190 euro by being gifted the NVMe drive (1TB Samsung 970 Evo), and in general the whole prices situation has kind of thrown it out the window, plus as more time passes, the easier it becomes (since I'm spreading cost over time and having more money saved up myself). My original build had a 800$ 3070 in it, back from the last thread in December or so, so... To hell with it, the more I overthink it the more I'm losing in terms of brain cells.
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Jul 24, 2021 16:09
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BurritoJustice posted:Are arctic P12 still the go-to moderately priced radiator fans? Yeah for the most part. If you are able to snag the value packs on amazon, they're definitely the best price/performance fans.
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Jul 24, 2021 18:10
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Yeah, chip manufacturing is crazy. Basically, Intel/AMD/et al are only trying to make their top-of-the-line chipsets. But the process is so complex and inexact, that they have to “bin” the finished products into different model lines. So the chips that work at >95% (not sure if this is the real figure) will be binned for the top tier (3090s), the next tier of bins becomes 3080s, and so on. Industry insiders, who watch the Fabs obsessively, will check the output numbers for a gauge of when the product line will be ready. Manufacturers won’t actually sell the products until they can reliably produce the top-end model.
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Jul 24, 2021 20:42
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A good friend of mine won the Newegg shuffle twice and is now grabbing a 3080 and selling me his EVGA 3070TI at cost ($800). He's only used it for like a couple weeks. I should jump on this, right? Upgrading from an MSI 1050TI which I can pop into the HTPC I never use. HOWEVER, the only thing I'm really concerned about is idle noise since I do voiceover/recording work. Does anyone here have any personal experience with the EVGA 3070TI and the noise levels from it at idle? This one specifically: https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-08g-p5-3797-kl/p/N82E16814487550
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Jul 25, 2021 05:07
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The Joe Man posted:A good friend of mine won the Newegg shuffle twice and is now grabbing a 3080 and selling me his EVGA 3070TI at cost ($800). That card's page says it supports a 0 RPM mode when it's below 55 C. Now, whether it can stay under that heat budget probably depends on your case's airflow and whether you have a multi-monitor setup that's making your card's memory run at high clocks at idle (supposedly the 3070 Ti runs at around 11W at idle with one monitor and 20W with two, both of which should be able to be passively dissipated if the heatsink is any decent and if you have good airflow). Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 05:14
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The Joe Man posted:A good friend of mine won the Newegg shuffle twice and is now grabbing a 3080 and selling me his EVGA 3070TI at cost ($800). It's easy to isolate fan noise and a lot harder to get rid of coil whine so that's the question I'd be asking. But yeah cards don't just use one fan speed all the time so even if it was loud just turn that down.
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Jul 25, 2021 05:25
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:That card's page says it supports a 0 RPM mode when it's below 55 C. Now, whether it can stay under that heat budget probably depends on your case's airflow and whether you have a multi-monitor setup that's making your card's memory run at high clocks at idle (supposedly the 3070 Ti runs at around 11W at idle with one monitor and 20W with two, both of which should be able to be passively dissipated if the heatsink is any decent and if you have good airflow).  VelociBacon posted:It's easy to isolate fan noise and a lot harder to get rid of coil whine so that's the question I'd be asking. But yeah cards don't just use one fan speed all the time so even if it was loud just turn that down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP73edpQwgc&t=114s
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Jul 25, 2021 05:48
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The Joe Man posted:Holy poo poo, I had no idea this was a thing, it's atrocious and an absolute dealbreaker if anyone thinks that'll be an issue with this card One reviewer on Newegg mentioned not hearing any coil whine, and none of the others mention it at all. A cursory googling didn't turn up anything either. I think you're good to go with this card. Also, pat your friend on the back for not being a scalpy jerkface 
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Jul 25, 2021 05:58
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Also I don't think coil whine happens at idle usually? It's when a lot of power is running through... one of the electronic thingamabobs that all electronics have. It can vary a lot even among the same model of card, but I always hear about it at high load situations. edit: Also, with 0 RPM modes, generally what happens is that the fans run for like 30 seconds to a minute whenever they reach their designated temperature, which can take a while to reach depending on environmental factors and idle power draw. My 5700 XT runs at 32 watts at idle because lmao @ amd, and it usually takes around 10 minutes for the temperature to go from 50 C to 60 C, after which the fan kicks in for around a minute until the temp drops back down to 50 C, and then the process repeats. It's actually kind of annoying because it spins the fans faster than it has to, so I usually just keep my fans running at min RPM at idle to avoid the louder ramp up ramp down cycle. But your 3070 ti seems like it will run cooler and your case seems better ventilated than mine so it might never kick in at all for you. If it does, it should be something you can plan your voice recordings around. Since this card is coming from a friend, maybe he can let you give it a test drive for a day or so before purchasing? Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 06:05
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I'm struggling to get my head around certain compatibility things when it comes to re-homing my PC into a smaller case. I've got: - MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 motherboard - i7 9700K - Patriot Viper Steel 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 memory - Intel 660p Series 2.048 TB M.2-2280 NVME SSD - MSI 3080 Ti Suprim X Currently sat in a Cooler Master Stacker 830 case I got in probably 2006:  It's got space for 12x 3.5" discs! I've got none. It's massive, it's a waste of space. I want to fulfil some of my teenage dreams and put this stuff into a smaller case with: - AIO CPU water cooler - Vertical GPU mount - A window and pretty lights on these bits There are some bits I've seen that I like, specifically the NZXT Kraken X73 RGB 360MM AIO water cooler and so far I like the Phanteks P400A and the Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic cases, however the main thing I am unsure of is how the vertical mounting works. Mainly how to ensure I get a bracket which is both compatible with the case and also provides adequate airflow for this GPU. Are these cases suitable for that and won't starve the GPU of fresh air? Does it depend on the bracket? Can anyone suggest what the best way of approaching this is? Edit: Oh and the other thing I don't understand is how this RGB lighting stuff is now controlled. I've seen mention of how various components are compatible with control systems but how does this work? Is it a different power connection with another channel? Is it meant to integrate with the case? Sir Sidney Poitier fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 06:59
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:I'm struggling to get my head around certain compatibility things when it comes to re-homing my PC into a smaller case. I can say right now that you should consider stepping up from the P400A to the P500A if you go the Phanteks route. I have the P400, and it's a great case, but it can also be just slightly cramped. The P500A adds an extra inch here and there to make things like radiators less of a pain. In my case, I have a big bulky tower cooler that won't allow for a top-mounted fan because the top of the case comes so close to the top of the motherboard in the P400 series. I'm also not sure if the P400A would even support a vertical graphics card. The P500A definitely does and has built-in rear expansion slot support for it, though doing so puts your graphics card extremely close to the glass. This is the kind of thing that will really hurt your GPU thermals. Phanteks does sell a separate vertical GPU bracket that fits into the horizontal expansion slot area which should give the GPU a lot more room to breathe, but I hope you weren't planning on using those other expansion slots. Also it's PCI-E Gen 3, which should only deliver like a 5% hit to your framerates, but that's a bigger number than 0. Maybe you can find a Gen 4 bracket out there somewhere. Either way, I would recommend not using the built-in slots unless you either want to suffocate the GPU or are going to water cool it, which is a whole other can of worms. For the O11 Dynamic, Lian Li also sells their own brackets. Lian Li's brackets at least look a good bit sturdier/less prone to sag when suspended in air. They also offer PCI-E Gen 4 versions, though they're pretty expensive on top of their already-expensive cases (that don't come with fans, making you pay even more. get ready to open your wallet for Lian Li). Here's the one for the regular O11, and here's the one for the O11 XL. I'm not entirely sure what's topping you from using either in the wrong case or cases from other brands entirely, to be honest. To actually install these brackets on the P500A, I believe you have to cut away the metal strips between expansion slots since those aren't normally removable, making this an irrevocable process. The O11 cases have no such strips, so it supports brackets non-destructively. To install them, you just slide them in and screw them down like a PCI card and then plug the riser cable into the PCI-E slot. In the P500A, the bracket will rest on the PSU shroud (i think?), while in the O11, it'll be suspended in air (and hopefully not sag). I would install the card in the furthest slot back you can get away with to give your fans the most room to breathe. The testing I've seen indicates that if you give the fans room to breathe, the hit to thermals is fairly small. If you're using a gen 3 riser cable with a gen 4 card, you should go into your motherboard bios BEFORE doing all this and set the slot you're using to Gen 3, otherwise you will run into issues. Actually, now that I check again, your mobo seems to be Gen 3 only already so it's fine. Gen 4 cables won't offer you any additional performance increase with your mobo, but they'll future proof you, I guess. I should've probably checked before writing this post, huh. Anyway this post ended up up kinda messy but hopefully it's helpful. edit: Sir Sidney Poitier posted:Edit: Oh and the other thing I don't understand is how this RGB lighting stuff is now controlled. I've seen mention of how various components are compatible with control systems but how does this work? Is it a different power connection with another channel? Is it meant to integrate with the case? This I don't know. There are no governing bodies dictating RGB standards that I know of (can you imagine?), so connectivity is kind of all over the place. Though, there seems to have been some kind of agreement to settle on a loosely defined "ARGB" (addressable rgb) standard that many modern motherboards now support. You plug your RGB stuff into the ARGB header on your motherboard, and then software can control it all. I've seen converters between some of the alternate connection standards too. It all seems pointlessly complex to me. The alternative is to have a hub in your case that all the RGB connects to that lets you change effects with the press of a button, no software required. I don't know much about how this works though, sorry. edit 2: also just want to say that 360mm AIOs are almost always overkill. You could get away with a 240 one easily. Though I guess overkill is kind of the point here. If you're going with the P500A, I would recommend doing a top-mounted radiator configured for exhaust while leaving the front fans untouched. A front-mounted radiator would give your GPU less air. For the O11, I'd recommend a side-mounted radiator with bottom intake fans and top exhaust fans. Overkill? Yes, but lots of potential for RGB vomit there. This is similar to an O11 Mini build from Optimum Tech I'd like to mimic someday, though minus the light show. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 07:59
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Thank you doctor.Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:For the O11 Dynamic, Lian Li also sells their own brackets. Lian Li's brackets at least look a good bit sturdier/less prone to sag when suspended in air. The only one I'd seen for the O11 that you also linked seems to mount to the bottom of the case, where fans would go - I was concerned this would mean airflow would be further limited. I'm also not too worried about sag because the card is so big and heavy it came with a support beam thing in the box that I could just install too. Honestly I'm not that bothered about the cost of this stuff, if I was that concerned I'd be recognising that what I've got right now works just fine. A £150+ water cooler when my air cooler is working great is purely because it looks nice and it's the sort of thing I always wanted to do before I was working full time. Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:edit 2: also just want to say that 360mm AIOs are almost always overkill. You could get away with a 240 one easily. Though I guess overkill is kind of the point here. If you're going with the P500A, I would recommend doing a top-mounted radiator configured for exhaust while leaving the front fans untouched. A front-mounted radiator would give your GPU less air. For the O11, I'd recommend a side-mounted radiator with bottom intake fans and top exhaust fans. Overkill? Yes, but lots of potential for RGB vomit there. This is similar to an O11 Mini build from Optimum Tech I'd like to mimic someday, though minus the light show. Absolute overkill. I did consider a 240mm one in the Phanteks P360A too - I really don't need space for stuff aside from the GPU. I have no plans to put any more PCI-E cards in, no plans for discs, and if I was starting from scratch now I'd be going for that O11 mini case you linked with a smaller board. Based on this I am probably going to look at the Lian Li O11 Dynamic, with the Lian Li mount, and the side-mounted 360mm radiator. Sir Sidney Poitier fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 10:14
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Okay, I'm looking at these brackets again, and the regular O11 one does rest on the bottom, but the XL one floats. I'm not sure if you could use the XL one in the regular O11 by mounting it up higher—that might cause the card to bump into the RAM. Sorry for the incorrect info in my other post.
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Jul 25, 2021 10:26
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so, ARGB is definitely considered more valuable. I have an older/cheaper case which was just RGB instead of ARGB, and while I can set it to any of 30 or so custom colours/animations by cycling through clicking the reset button they're all pretty simple, (primary colours, shifting primary colours, breathing shifting primary colours, etc). Ideal if your design objective is "eerie green" or "Red alert" or something. ARGB can be addressed by the motherboard, and like the good doctor puts it there are a mess of competing standards (ASUS Aura is one I think?), both in terms of the hardware connection i believe and DEFINITELY software which is a PITA. however, after the effort obviously you can change them in Windows instead of a hardware button but also could potentially be set for something functional like thermal monitoring ("hey, GPU, I want to know when you cross 80 and way more importantly 90, so can you change to yellow and red respectively when that happens?") or something fun like an audio visualizer, coordinated animation of all the components or even music visualization. Gigantic pain in the rear end to set up tho.
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Jul 25, 2021 12:20
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Someone built an interface that links AURA with Razer’s software so if you have those two, you at least got that sorted.
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Jul 25, 2021 16:34
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Is using Newegg's assembly service for their PC Builder any good? I need to get a new PC together for my dad (fine using his old video card) and it's gotten to the point where I'm too lazy* to do all the work but I also don't want to pay the big money on a prebuilt that isn't as customizable as I'd want. But I'm ok paying $100 for them to just do the basic putting together, I really care about if they're doing good cable management type stuff inside and it really is a professional services vs bare minimum effort or unreliable. *I've built my own PCs plus those for parents for like 2 decades now and yeah I can still do it, but my fingers are much older and fatter now
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Jul 26, 2021 00:31
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I'm in desperate need of a new gaming PC because I haven't upgraded since like 2014. Two observations: I'm willing to pay for someone else to build something top of the line for me (yay!) And I'm in Mexico, so I don't know local shops that might build a rig for me, or if I should just buy something from the larger brands. Does anyone have a proposed solution to this specific situation?
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Jul 26, 2021 00:51
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burnsep posted:I'm in desperate need of a new gaming PC because I haven't upgraded since like 2014. Two observations: I'm willing to pay for someone else to build something top of the line for me (yay!) And I'm in Mexico, so I don't know local shops that might build a rig for me, or if I should just buy something from the larger brands. Does anyone have a proposed solution to this specific situation? Your budget is going to matter a lot here.
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Jul 26, 2021 01:32
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Was there ever a straight answer on the 2 vs. 4 DIMMs optimization for Zen 3? I'm running 2x8 3600 CL16 and I know I don't need more, but I can't figure out what the consensus is re: 4x8 or 2x16 if I ever were to go up to 32, and/or out of curiosity. GN's video on this was interesting but it seems like there's been more discussion on this since then. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UkGu6A-6sQ
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Jul 26, 2021 14:38
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Lowkey one of the best 'upgrades outside my system that helped my system' is installing a good quality window-mounted air conditioner, and a dust filter fan in my office/gaming room. The room's ambient temps always being cool have actually helped improve my PC performance, and I haven't had to dust the interior as much as I used to. IMO don't overlook stuff like that as part of your setup if you can help it. Nothing's more unpleasant than trying to game or get work done on a heat-generating pc in an already--roasting-hot-summer room. Spacedad fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 15:16
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Spacedad posted:Lowkey one of the best 'upgrades outside my system that helped my system' is installing a good quality window-mounted air conditioner, and a dust filter fan in my office/gaming room. My HVAC poo poo the bed this spring, and naturally, my PC started getting real hot. So I took the excuse to replace the Hyper 212 with an Arctic 280mm radiator (and a giant case to accomodate it). I did so during the heatwave, so ambient temps were between 85 and 95 degrees. I was like "hey, 65c at load ain't so bad." I did the same test last night when it was 70 out (and the room was at the same temp) and everything - GPU included - sat around 41c under load (load being Warframe - I'm sure it'd hit 50c with a more stressful game). Previously it idled at 50-55. Yeah, ambient matters a ton.
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Jul 26, 2021 16:26
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Your budget is going to matter a lot here. I'd like to keep it under $2-3,000 USD (monitor included) with as much future-proofing as possible.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:05
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burnsep posted:I'd like to keep it under $2-3,000 USD (monitor included) with as much future-proofing as possible. I don’t know how pricing functions in MX, and I don’t know where you can buy stuff that you’ll be able to get, so I don’t know where to recommend stuff from. But 2-3k USD means probably trying to get a 5600+ and a 3080, 32GB ram and a 1TB+ NVME with a high end cooler (maybe even a high end AIO). You should buy the monitor separate as whatever is packaged will be poo poo someone is trying to get rid of.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:25
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burnsep posted:I'd like to keep it under $2-3,000 USD (monitor included) with as much future-proofing as possible. lurker2006 fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 18:34
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Jul 26, 2021 19:03
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Narrowing down my build question to just the RGB fans in case anyone knows about compatibility. Since I like the NZXT Kraken X73 cooler I started looking at their site and noticed they make controllers too. Does anyone know if I can use that cooler, some NZXT 120mm case fans, along with this fan controller and this internal USB hub? I figure I could hide each of those in the PSU compartment of the case and hoped that would allow me to control stuff via Windows. The other thing I've yet to figure out is whether fans in such a setup can be daisy-chained to use just one channel/port on the controller if I want them all operating the same - or if they have to be connected separately.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:32
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My 975 euro graphics card (went with a slightly more expensive option, but with a guarantee) is now 1030 euro, with the same guarantee. Starting to feel better about pulling the trigger already, I think I got the last one from that store.
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Jul 26, 2021 19:54
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Does anyone know if this will affect personal builds? https://www.theregister.com/2021/07/26/dell_energy_pcs/
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Jul 26, 2021 23:06
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Hyper Inferno posted:Does anyone know if this will affect personal builds? https://www.theregister.com/2021/07/26/dell_energy_pcs/ As the law is currently written, no. A.) based on that article the law only applies to entire package builds (specifically gaming consoles, desktops, and laptops, and will include monitors and TVs and any whole package computing device in the future) B.) individual components will not exceed those power limits for a long time, so even if they were included they wouldn’t be subject.
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Jul 26, 2021 23:11
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