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Krakkles posted:Edit: Yep, apparently EVAP is hard to set on Fords, according to a variety of the cesspool forums about mustangs out there. It appears that you need to: "Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills)" and then roll to a stop without braking. That sounds fun to attempt in Los Angeles. That's only if you want to set it quickly. Get it above 2/3 of a tank, drive it until it's below 1/3 in mixed traffic, and it should set. That's worked on pretty much every car I've owned, including the Crime Vic. Evap test normally won't run over 2/3 or under 1/3, depends on the make. Also some states will let you get away with 1 not ready, or at least evap not ready, as Charles pointed out. That 6 flashes from the CEL hosed with me pretty good when I was trying to disable the seatbelt minder on the Vic the other day - I'd cleared codes after replacing a vacuum line and the gas cap, and didn't know that the flashing CEL was a "feature" on Fords to let you know it wasn't ready to be smogged yet. My brain was going "how the gently caress do I have a misfire when the engine isn't even running?!". Then you have some cars that will set every loving monitor just driving around a neighborhood. Friend had a POS Lancer that he got for $500 years ago (late 90s model IIRC), he replaced the battery, cat, and both O2 sensors (primary + secondary). I drove it around the neighborhood with Torque running and watched as every readiness monitor went green in less than a mile, without tripping a single code.  It was throwing something like 15 codes when he got it.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 08:33
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Does anyone know who the OEM was for the 1st gen Mazda 3 sway bar linkage? Or is that the type of part where the manufacturer really doesn't matter?
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Jul 26, 2021 12:07
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DildenAnders posted:Does anyone know who the OEM was for the 1st gen Mazda 3 sway bar linkage? Or is that the type of part where the manufacturer really doesn't matter? STR posted:That's only if you want to set it quickly. Get it above 2/3 of a tank, drive it until it's below 1/3 in mixed traffic, and it should set. That's worked on pretty much every car I've owned, including the Crime Vic. I'm curious to see if CA does actually allow that. It seems to be on enough sites that it might be true. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Jul 26, 2021 |
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Jul 26, 2021 15:34
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Double posting to confirm Charles' claim: You can indeed pass smog on a 2000 Mustang GT without the EVAP monitor set. Incidentally, my cars are both smogged now!
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Jul 26, 2021 22:37
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So I have this '65 Econoline with the 170ci inline 6. It has this nasty header set on it that is leaving, & being replaced by a good 'ol log. I'm also installing an exhaust system designed for a '65 Falcon because that's the closest thing that is available. What I can't remember is whether or not there should be: 1) a crush ring gasket 2) a crush flange gasket 3) nothing at all; torqueing will deform the lip for a nice tight seal ...between the manifold & the downpipe.    Sorta wild west territory because neither of these are factory Ford parts, and with the hideous breakfast-sausage header on it   ...I have nothing to work from. drat, but it must've gotten hot in the cabin. There's zero insulation/matting on the doghouse panels, which will be remedied when I remove the rest of it to do some welding repairs to it.
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Jul 27, 2021 00:10
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Can anyone tell what the yellow stuff around the headlights is here? Is it rust?
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Jul 27, 2021 02:18
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It's almost definitely the hood rusting out. Probably after a very cheap repair/paint job after the front end got hit. (body lines looks like poo poo, missing a badge, etc)
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Jul 27, 2021 02:19
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NotNut posted:Can anyone tell what the yellow stuff around the headlights is here? you can get clear turn signals if the yellow bothers you that much (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Jul 27, 2021 03:56
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Krakkles posted:Double posting to confirm Charles' claim: You can indeed pass smog on a 2000 Mustang GT without the EVAP monitor set. Interesting yet unsurprising that CA is that much more strict than the federal standard, where 96-99 can be any two unset and 00+ can be any one unset. I may  have used the latter, while keeping the fuel tank full, to get the TJ through emissions. I'll deal with the evap leak again this fall.
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Jul 27, 2021 04:10
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ryanrs posted:you can get clear turn signals if the yellow bothers you that much They meant the rust on the hood. How does it get on the plastic bumper part? Just staining? Geez 😬 Edit: to be clear avoid it if you were thinking of purchasing it! I mean verify it's rust. The image quality is bad
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Jul 27, 2021 04:34
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Friend's 2014 Cruze (1.4T automatic). Throwing a P0171 lean code. It did this about 2 years ago, and it wound up being the valve cover. Bets on it being the valve cover again? And what's a decent brand to go with? I know Dorman is the go-to for Ford intake manifolds; they make a valve cover for these. The only other name I recognize on Rockauto is SKP. Both are $50ish. Reviews on the Dorman one on Amazon are mixed, but I think it's likely that some no-name ones got mixed in by the various sellers.
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Jul 27, 2021 04:54
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Charles posted:They meant the rust on the hood. How does it get on the plastic bumper part? Very typical and normal dripping/no washing ever. This is just a disaster of an unmaintained salvage title car with very bad "repair" paint and bodywork.
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Jul 27, 2021 04:55
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PainterofCrap posted:So I have this '65 Econoline with the 170ci inline 6. It has this nasty header set on it that is leaving, & being replaced by a good 'ol log. I vote for crush ring.
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Jul 27, 2021 07:13
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I had asked itt awhile ago about recharging refrigerant for a car and was told to have the dealer do it. I had then do it and they said they would put dye in the new stuff so if it leaked they could find the leak This was last week. When I drove it home from the first time it was definitely a lot colder, but it already doesn't seem as cold. I had the ac on full blast and it was cool but not cold. I have an appointment for tomorrow for them to look at it again since it already doesn't feel cold anymore after a week. It's not hot air, it's cool air, but it's not cold. I have a dog and I don't trust that it's maintaining the cabin temperature cool enough for the dog when we're driving (I don't leave the dog in the car at all so it's not like the car is in direct sun idling), this is while the car is in motion. My question is this: what air temp range should an ac on max cool should the ac be putting out?
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Jul 27, 2021 14:54
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STR posted:Friend's 2014 Cruze (1.4T automatic). Throwing a P0171 lean code. Just looked at it, it's the valve cover. Again. Going for Dorman over OEM GM, since an OEM one only lasted 2 years before the diaphragm let go again. Also throwing P0106, P0171, P0420, P0507, P1101, and P2270, idling like poo poo, and stumbling off the line. I've never seen fuel trims at +35 before either.  Never change, GM.It's also doing that horrible fluttering chirp, so it likely needs the intake manifold (which would also explain why it popped the valve cover's diaphragm already), or someone came up with a kit that also moves a check valve out of the intake manifold. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Jul 27, 2021 |
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Jul 27, 2021 15:14
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The Slack Lagoon posted:My question is this: what air temp range should an ac on max cool should the ac be putting out? Depends heavily on ambient temperature, but unless you're dealing with AZ summers any working system should be able to maintain 40-something-degree vent temperatures.
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Jul 27, 2021 18:24
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It's usually specified as x degrees below ambient, I believe. I'd post in the a/c thread. Let me get a link Edit: here ya go https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970674
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Jul 27, 2021 18:38
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STR posted:Just looked at it, it's the valve cover. Again. Going for Dorman over OEM GM, since an OEM one only lasted 2 years before the diaphragm let go again. Also throwing P0106, P0171, P0420, P0507, P1101, and P2270, idling like poo poo, and stumbling off the line. I've never seen fuel trims at +35 before either. God drat that car sounds like a disaster.
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Jul 27, 2021 19:07
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Inner Light posted:God drat that car sounds like a disaster. Almost all of those codes (aside from the secondary O2 + cat codes) come along for the ride when the valve cover starts sucking air. Fuel trims are pegged at +35 at idle, so it starts throwing MAF codes, lean codes, primary O2 codes, etc. It's not throwing random misfires (yet), but if you let it go long enough, it'll add P0300 to the mix, and eventually slag a piston or ringland. It's what happens to every GM 1.4/1.5 turbo after awhile (if the 1.5 doesn't slag a piston first); the valve cover's built-in PCV poo poo is known to fail often, to the point that every GM dealer keeps these valve covers on the shelf. GM extended the powertrain warranty to 7 years/100k on some of them, but this is over on both. She bought it new, and she's anal about maintenance; it's just a poo poo engine design. It's fun as hell when it runs right, and responds decently to more boost + tuning, but it's definitely something the bean counters got ahold of. When the check valve in the intake lets go, it starts eating valve covers like they're candy (specifically the plastic PCV stuff)... along with every oil-related gasket in the engine, since the internals are now under pressure instead of vacuum. Oil also starts pooling in the turbo (sometimes making its way past the seals), which most dealers and a lot of shops misdiagnose as a bad turbo. The official "proper" solution is a new intake manifold @ $300+, which will just do the same thing again. The unofficial fix is to knock out what's left of the original check valve, seal the hole, and pipe in an external check valve. A kit to do that is $75, and doesn't even require removing the intake manifold completely. e: tl;dr they're a disaster from the factory randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jul 27, 2021 |
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Jul 27, 2021 21:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:Depends heavily on ambient temperature, but unless you're dealing with AZ summers any working system should be able to maintain 40-something-degree vent temperatures. Ok, thanks. I was testing it just now, and with an air temp of 86 and sunny where I am it was blowing 60 degree air at the lowest
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Jul 27, 2021 21:28
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Yeah, that's not right. Even my Jeep's lovely AC will do 40 degrees in 75-80 degree ambient, let alone something modern.
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Jul 27, 2021 21:43
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What price point should I look for if I want to improve the stock basic-rear end sound in a 2000 Golf (2door) w/out the Monsoon? Amazon has $25/pair Pioneers, $50/pair Amazon brand, and then on up? I bought the 19.99 Bluetooth receiver at Walmart that's 200w/4 (which I think is more than the stock but I can take it back). I am willing to spend up to $200 to improve the sound system, bass is important. Do I have any options (sub, powered or not) or do I need more money (I know tons of car audio stuff is sold secondhand so I'm open to "go to a pawn shop" or "buy on Facebook" replies).
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Jul 28, 2021 05:53
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That head unit is more like 15-20 watts per channel, not 200. Unless you meant 200 divided by 4, in which case that would be when lightning strikes ("peak" on cheap stuff). Pretty much any car speaker from the 80s and up that isn't a proprietary system (Monsoon, JBL, etc) can handle that. Hit Crutchfield, find out what fits your car. Start with speakers, something in the $50-75/pair range will be a massive upgrade. Crutchfield will also include directions and any wiring adapters you may need. If you want a sub, used is fine, but expect to drop over $200 on just the sub/amp/enclosure, plus all the wiring you need. Check out our car audio thread (you can be forgiven for missing it, it's buried back on page 3 right now). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 06:02
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I don't think you'll be able to meaningfully improve the bass with a $200 budget if you also have to buy a deck, unless you count being able to adjust the eq on the deck. Or am I not reading this correctly? Do you have the deck already? E: okay yeah you have a deck. Honestly I'd just go get a used sub and wiring kit from Amazon. Look for a 10 or 12" sub in an enclosure with an amp, likely 300-500w.
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Jul 28, 2021 06:03
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Okay, thanks. I'll go to that other thread.
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Jul 28, 2021 06:15
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The Fuzzy Hulk posted:Is this it? Sorry, been away for a couple days. That would look like proportioning valve for the rear however its not an adjustable one. The hex nut just holds the biasing valve together inside. Smaller diameter would make it easier to lock the wheel than the original wheel size. Larger diameter tires make it less easy to lock than the original. A narrower width tire will have a higher pressure contact patch than a wider than original tire. Road surface and conditions will influence this parameter for a lock significantly. rear anti-lock brakes came around on pickups right around the same time this truck was built for pretty much this reason as an alternative to the load sensing proportioning valve. barring having that(or having it functional), try checking the brake adjustment on the rear brakes. Other considerations, when was the fluid last changed? dot 3/4/5.1 is hydrophillic. How are the liners(brake shoes) and their springs? In my case it was a combo of the above 3 that solved my issues. Old fluid with old contaminated liners with a broken spring. You can test the spring simply by dropping it on the ground and listening to its noise. If it sounds dull, its no longer useful to you. If you go down this route take one side apart at a time while using the other as your guide. Shoe liners have different lengths of liner depending on whether they're trailing or leading, reversing it will make them less effective.
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Jul 28, 2021 16:39
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e: wrong thread, ignore me.
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Jul 28, 2021 20:13
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Newbie car owner checking in again. Last night I stupidly decided to try getting home in a very bad rainstorm with somewhat flooded roads in my 2021 Corolla Hybrid Ive had less than two weeks. At one point I did go through some significant water. I couldnt see exactly how high because visibility was poor. Today theres a lot of water on that place on the road (very close to my office). Enough that the road is closed for about 200 feet. I didnt stall or anything and the car seems to be running fine today. Should I have to checked out or am I probably fine? I did learn my lesson about not driving through flash floods. Very scary. Ogmius815 fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 14:11
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if the car is running fine 24h later you're good, basically
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Jul 30, 2021 14:17
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At the dealership with my 2019 Toyota rav 4 with 13k miles for its 15k free service. They recommended: Alignment $115 Brake fluid flush $150 MAF sensor cleaning $85 Throttle body cleaning $120 I can see doing the alignment but the other stuff seems like a rip off to me? Googling shows I can do the two cleanings with a $5 can of spray from autozone. So am I right? The cars never been off-road and while it hesitates at acceleration, its a slow car in general.
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Jul 30, 2021 15:15
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nwin posted:At the dealership with my 2019 Toyota rav 4 with 13k miles for its 15k free service. At 13k miles, you shouldn't need any of those things. It's all useless. Get the alignment only if you've seen signs of misalignment - tires wearing unevenly or it won't track straight.
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Jul 30, 2021 15:27
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Is buying a battery tender/trickle charger overkill for my situation, or could it be beneficial? I have a normal sedan in a big city, but I don't drive it daily, between 2-5 times a week maybe. However, most of those trips are 1-2 miles, occasionally just under a mile. My concern is none of those trips are probably enough to fully charge the battery, and every time I start the engine it's going to draw significant power. I will also go on 15-30 minute trips with the car every week or two, but not guaranteed that I will and I don't want to feel obligated to stave off a dead battery.
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Jul 30, 2021 15:28
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Inner Light posted:Is buying a battery tender/trickle charger overkill for my situation, or could it be beneficial? I have a normal sedan in a big city, but I don't drive it daily, between 2-5 times a week maybe. However, most of those trips are 1-2 miles, occasionally just under a mile. My concern is none of those trips are probably enough to fully charge the battery, and every time I start the engine it's going to draw significant power. You should be fine with a weekly 15-30 minute trip. Chart the battery voltage over the course of a few weeks and see if it's dropping, if you're worried about it. A cheap trickle charger won't hurt anything, but as you say, it's probably overkill. If it helps stop you from worrying about it, it may be worth it.
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Jul 30, 2021 15:34
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Deteriorata posted:At 13k miles, you shouldn't need any of those things. It's all useless. Seconded, this is why dealerships love "free" services - they drag you in and upsell you poo poo. Brake fluid flush: this has to do more with time than miles, but at any rate two year old brake fluid in a modern system shouldn't be picking up water from the environment so fast that it's ready to be flushed yet. In anouther couple years, maybe. MAF sensor cleaning: did you put a mad tyte K&N air filter on your car and then soak it with oil? No? Then it's clean and will stay that way, likely forever as long as you change the engine air filter on schedule. Throttle body cleaning: even less important than the MAF. A dirty MAF can cause running problems. A throttle body would have to be absolutely mindblowingly filthy to present any issues. Seriously, you'll never need this.
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Jul 30, 2021 15:51
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I just took apart the intake of my offroad minivan. It's probably the first time it's been opened in the car's 21 year life. The butterfly valve was pretty clean. Clean enough that I'm not going to touch it even though I already have it apart.
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Jul 30, 2021 16:43
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Eh, the throttle bodies get dirty on older Mazdas. Not at 13k though, lol. Plus those were port injection only, not sure how that affects things compared to modern DI? But yes this is an upsale grift
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Jul 30, 2021 16:47
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Just watched this video, and he mentions intake baffles that can break off. Is anyone else familiar with this problem, and should I be worried about it at 134k miles? Edit: I'm an idiot, engine in question is the Ford Duratec/Mazda MZR, here's the video: https://youtu.be/3GGfys4ndJc DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 16:55
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DildenAnders posted:Just watched this video, and he mentions intake baffles that can break off. Is anyone else familiar with this problem, and should I be worried about it at 134k miles? Which video? For what?
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Jul 30, 2021 17:06
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What would be the most cost effective/at home route to taking down a 2000 GMC Sonoma around 3-5 inches? It's mostly a daily driver and the heaviest load it hauls is 3 mtb. I'm not at all worried about reducing the carrying capacity because it basically never carries things anyways. I was thinking the leaf springs/c notch route, and just wanted to bounce that idea off other people.
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Jul 30, 2021 21:11
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Drop knuckles/springs up front and a spring under swap out back?
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Jul 31, 2021 00:01
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