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While I was ripping out more of the interior, I grabbed some brackets and whatnot to refurbish. These are the mounting brackets for the lower center dash plastics - the bit around the radio and AC controls, down to around the shifter.   Not bad, but they picked up some rust along the way. Clean:   Polished:   Small one plated:   (I left it in too long and it over-plated, making the surface finish rougher, but, oh, well.) I went with the "blue" passivate on these pieces:   It's a lot more obvious in person - the iridescence shows up nicely. The bigger bracket took some fiddling to get the inside corners plated to my satisfaction.  All plated:   Polish:   And blue chromate:   I'm happy with that. This is mainly a reference photo for me so I know where that bracket came from and how it was fitted:  I took it out to paint that area. Speaking of, I pulled all the tape sealing the holes in the firewall from the inside (for when I painted the engine bay) and taped the from the *outside* to paint the firewall inside.  Then, to the priming of the firewall (and floor):   Made sure to get up in that air inlet as well:  The Rustoleum "Gloss Cherry" red I picked up isn't far off the Mazda Sunrise Red, or at least the version I got from AutoColor Library/TCP Global  (Mazda Sunrise red on bottom, Cherry Red on top) Close enough for the interior, especially since most of it will be hidden. Honestly,most of this could be any color, but if I'm buying paint anyway, might as well get close as I can. Partway through I realized I could actually do most of the driver's floor, too:  you can see I've already put down a light coat of red further up. After a second coat:   Looks nice! In between coats of paint and such, I also tackled the block-off plates for the holes in the floor:   Initially I just ran them through the wire wheel. That proved to be inadequate on the pitted one. The wire brush just couldn't get the rust out of the pits without a lot more work, so that one got a trip to the media blaster, and I blasted just those areas, then back to the wire wheel for smoothening. So of course, I started plated the other one while doing all that. It took a little jury-rigging, but it went OK:   I should have taken pictures of the little wire cradle I made to hold these, since they had no holes to hook into. The pitted one came out OK, too:   All the plated pieces from this session:  I also worked on the shifter seal plate. Folks, never underestimate the power of a grinder with a wire wheel:  For reference, that's supposed to be mostly flat. After a little hammer and dolly work, I got it back to where it should be:  I ran out of time (and energy) to plate that piece, but I'll get to it. For one thing, I need to get a larger shallow tray to use to dunk it in the chromate. The funny thing is that I really had started the day with the intention of refurbishing the center link.   safety sandals Ah, well, I'll get to it. I'm gathering another pile of hardware to plate in the barrel, but it's coming from various areas, so some reference photos for what came from where, for myself:      For the stuff that was still in decent shape, I tried polishing them in the tumbler with walnut shell:  Not bad after 10 minutes:  I stuck them back in for another 20 minutes, but have yet to make my way back out to the garage to see how it went, but, of course, I will.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:13
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Fantastic progress! What rust converter are you using? I have similar rust on the bottom of my van I need to attack (rust in north Texas is so weird, agreed).
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Jul 22, 2021 22:44
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US Robotics notepad? I'm gonna have to find my OS/2 notepad now. It's... somewhere.
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Jul 23, 2021 04:00
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Hand written lists are the best because you can always have them visible, don't need to worry about dirt and grime on your hands, and it feels so good checking stuff off on them.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:42
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GOD IS BED posted:Fantastic progress! What rust converter are you using? I have similar rust on the bottom of my van I need to attack (rust in north Texas is so weird, agreed). I got it from a friend - which I will need to replace for him - so I don’t recall the name just this second. I’ll try to remember to check. It seems to work well. I used it with the rust repairs in the cowl, and all over the engine bay. STR posted:US Robotics notepad? Yep. It was one of those cubes of notes loose in a box. Freebie from when I worked at CompUSA back in the 90s. Down to about 1/2” of them now. I also have a shot-ton of drug vendor plain and sticky notes from the couple of years I worked at a hospital (Parkland - the one Kennedy was taken to after he ate the Magic Bullet.) Medical reps give out an amazing assortment of freebies, or at least they did back then. So much money in that market. Minnesota Mixup posted:Hand written lists are the best because you can always have them visible, don't need to worry about dirt and grime on your hands, and it feels so good checking stuff off on them. My thinking exactly. I can see it from across the room, don’t have to worry about messing up my phone, and it’s a nice endorphin-boosting progress indicator.
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Jul 23, 2021 19:41
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The fasteners I threw into the tumbler with walnut sheel came out OK after another 30 minutes: I'll have to see how it does on the plain zinc next batch. This is the inside rear view mirror mount. (I've already detached the stem from the base. It's designed to be breakaway.)  The mirror itself disintegrated when I removed it from the car a while back, so it's debatable whether or not I'll need the stem, but it was easy enough to hit it with a Scotch Brite to remove the light surface corrosion and give it a quick spray of satin black (it's already been cleaned in the pic.) Masked for painting (gotta mask the electric bits, including the grounding from the base to the stem.)  Didn't take a picture of "painted" yet - the stem is hanging up, and the base is just on a box. This is my dead pedal:   As you can see, the rust holes in the cowl were leaking down the kick panel right on to this thing. It normally has a plastic pedal pad - I made this aluminum one and matching pedal covers many years ago when I worked at a waterjet cutting service. This is a bracket for the AC evaporator box, and the trim ring for the ignition cylinder.   And this is a mount for various relays and such from the driver's kick panel, and a clip that holds the wiring loom down under the driver's side sill plate.:   The clip has already been past the wire wheel, BTW. It just had a little rust around the edges. The shifter plate coming out of the bath:   Polished:   Passivated:   A little mottled, but it seems to have all plated OK. The AC bracket cleaned:  AC bracket and clip plated:  There was still some schmutz in the corners, so it took a trip to the media blaster to get that blasted, and back into the tank:   It took some fiddling with the location of an anode to get plating into those corners, but it seems to have worked. Polished:   Passivated:   Again a bit mottled, but this is functional, not decorative. It'll do. The clip was easier. Plated and polished:   Gold chromate:   Good! Dead pedal and ignition cylinder ring after blasting:   After painting (gloss black appliance epoxy):  I refreshed the black on the sides and insets on the dead pedal cover:  (I'll sand off the excess after it's dry.) I didn't get to that relay bracket yet. I did buy some 10mm high-density foam/aluminum self-adhesive sound deadener/insulation. This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-32-29sqft-Firewall-Deadener-Insulation/dp/B072WHC63F, but I got it from AliExpress for half the cost, and I'll probably buy some of this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SCJDY2R/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_1_dp. More or less the same thing as Dynamat original. I could use Peel and Seal roof repair, but that's asphalt rather than butyl. I've used it successfully. Some folks claim it will smell like, well, asphalt if it gets hot, but I've got it in both my Cutlass, and the shitbox AE86, and haven't noticed anything past a couple days after it's installed. Still, this stuff is the same price, roughly, and comes in a 12" wide roll versus the typical 6", which is nice. Once I get that in and on the firewall and floors, I can start putting some more stuff back in that area. Meanwhile, I guess I can get back to that steering gear, and I guess the headlights and other stuff at the very front. Which reminds me that I need to order a condenser so I can come up with mounts for that, and a new radiator. Which means I need to decide whether to go with the original style "short" radiator with the oil cooler underneath it, or the GSL-SE style with the oil cooler in front of the radiator. Probably that latter one, since I actually have the correct oil cooler, as well as one from a second-gen. edit: so if you're bored with all the plating/shiny bits, there's more mechanical stuff coming.
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Jul 23, 2021 20:54
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I'm not even slightly bored with the plating stuff. I think it's cool as hell to see this, and I wish I had the time/focus to do this stuff the way you are. Never stop, this rocks.
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Jul 24, 2021 00:29
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Agreed. It's beautiful.
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Jul 24, 2021 00:34
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Thanks. It’s very satisfying, I can tell you that. Edit: and sometimes a little frustrating, too, if I’m honest, but it’s so nice when those shiny parts come out. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Jul 24, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 01:04
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I've always hated the car tv show rusty shitbox to bzzz bzzz and sand and look it's a concourse car in 45 minutes thing. Post all the plating.
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Jul 24, 2021 03:47
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honda whisperer posted:I've always hated the car tv show rusty shitbox to bzzz bzzz and sand and look it's a concourse car in 45 minutes thing. Post all the plating. Agreed. I love all the dirty details about how it was done. Project Binky is a good example. To bad Richard turned out to be a chud on Twitter... Here's the inside mirror mount done:    The lens is pretty crappy:   Not sure if anything can be done to "un-yellow" it. You can see where the tabs broke of many years ago. Being a model builder, I just drilled little holes in the right place and super-glued in cut off ends of paper clips, bent just the right amount. The did and still does work great, other than the bit of rust, there.  Had to get t alittle targeted plating that relay bracket. It just did not want to plate in that inset.  Eventually, though, it came down to "turn it up." I wasn't using enough current for the part's size.     It came out nicely. I added about 1/2 a bottle of corn syrup to the mix last week. It's in some of the recipes as a brightener, and I noted that the brightener that I bought from Caswell also made the mixture sweeter (don't ask - it was accidental.) It actually seems to be working. The parts still need polishing, but not as much. That could be confirmation bias, but I don't think so. In any case, doesn't seem to hurt, and was cheap. Also, here's the dead pedal pad after sanding.  The little schmutz at the top left is a manufacturing error. I neglected to have the waterjet that cut it start the cut a little bit away from the part, and the initial penetration pitted the surface of the actual part. Fortunately, it's tough to see when it's down in the footwell. And the dead pedal bracket and ignition trim ring after painting:  Dead pedal reassembled:  GOD IS BED posted:Fantastic progress! What rust converter are you using? I have similar rust on the bottom of my van I need to attack (rust in north Texas is so weird, agreed). I remembered to check: References for me. This is the rough size of the firewall pad:  And I need a couple more of these (grommet for the tabs on the cowl vent):      I think there are 3 of those tabs. May be 4. I may just put heatshrink on the tabs and be done with that. These are NLA, and I don't currently have a 3D printer.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:06
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Your plating adventures are a hoot to follow. These old pieces look great. Can't wait to see more assembly.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:11
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You need to toss all of the plating pictures up on twitter and start tagging Mazda Japan and their related accounts. You'll be famous among the Japanese resto nerds in no time.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:15
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I did mostly garage things this weekend. That relay bracket is the only part I actually messed with, aside from assembling the mirror mount and dead pedal. I was reorganizing to get the parts and such I needed closer to the door, and try to shuffle things around to make it easier for my wife to get her recumbent trike out of the garage, so she could ride it more often. I made some space!  . . . . . .  Oh, right. It's all out there. Dang. After a couple days working on it, I did get it shuffled all back in.   I should have taken a before picture. Believe it or not, this is better. The nice part is most of that stuff near the door on the left will be used on the RX-7, so will eventually be out of the way. The shelves will be going to a friend at that point. I'm thinking of replacing them with a single Metro-style wire rack unit with casters when that happens. Man, I need a shop. It would also help if the laundry wasn't out in my garage... Edit: and a large pile of stuff on the left towards the back of the garage is actually stuff from out dining room cum library that was removed for plumbing and remodeling work. A lot of books and such.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:22
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McTinkerson posted:You need to toss all of the plating pictures up on twitter and start tagging Mazda Japan and their related accounts. You'll be famous among the Japanese resto nerds in no time.
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Jul 26, 2021 18:43
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Darchangel posted:dining room cum library Do I need a library card or can I check some out by name? I assume these samples are for calibration purposes only?
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Jul 26, 2021 18:55
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McTinkerson posted:You need to toss all of the plating pictures up on twitter and start tagging Mazda Japan and their related accounts. You'll be famous among the Japanese resto nerds in no time. 
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Jul 26, 2021 20:20
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Just Keep Plating As for the plastic lens, are replacements available? Retrobrighting is worth looking into, it's what people do to yellowed game consoles/PCs.
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Jul 26, 2021 20:35
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McTinkerson posted:You need to toss all of the plating pictures up on twitter and start tagging Mazda Japan and their related accounts. You'll be famous among the Japanese resto nerds in no time. But then I'd have to use Twitter. (I have an account to read stuff, but don't post. Maybe I should. Probably should make another account, since the current one has, er, liked some naughty stuff.) Advent Horizon posted:Do I need a library card or can I check some out by name? I assume these samples are for calibration purposes only? Alright, Mr. "I don't use Latin." Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Just I have not yet looked. If Black Dragon was still around, it would be probable, but we lost that source years ago, sadly. I got a bunch of OEM stuff from Megazip.com for the AE86, but they don't do Mazda. Gotta tell you though, working out in the garage for 8+ hours both days last weekend wiped my rear end out. It didn't help that it finally hit 100 here in Dallas. edit: holy gently caress Mazdatrix has the dome light lens for under $8! Need to figure out what else I need and make an order. I know I'm going to need every bit of sealing rubber on the doors, for example. A whole bunch of stuff is NLA, though some have remaining stock. I'm going to need a 3D printer, probably... edit 2: I am going to nickel, dime, and $50 myself into the poorhouse. Door seals, window channel, window sweers (inner AND outer)... Carpet is going to be $200-300. Yay, fixing up old cars. I guess I need to look at the condition of the parts car's carpet. Just thought of that. It's grey, but I can dye it, since my interior is black (thankfully - the easiest color.) Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jul 27, 2021 |
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Jul 27, 2021 18:27
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Darchangel posted:Alright, Mr. "I don't use Latin." I know what you meant, I just couldn’t help myself. I hear you on the nickel-and-diming. I need to order a $20 part from a shop, but they have a bunch of other stuff I want, plus I want to make it worth their time to support good businesses… Next thing I know I have a pile of RAM mounts for every interior surface and nothing to actually mount on them.
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Jul 28, 2021 19:45
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Advent Horizon posted:I know what you meant, I just couldn’t help myself. No, no - I understand completely. :P quote:I hear you on the nickel-and-diming. I need to order a $20 part from a shop, but they have a bunch of other stuff I want, plus I want to make it worth their time to support good businesses… I think I'm about to spend $80 on WireCare Flexo F6 split braided looming and tools, because I'm tired of the usual corrugated stuff that disintegrates after a few years. This and my Cutlass are my keeper cars, so I'll spend a bit more for good stuff. On top of all the actual parts I need. First up is the door seals, though. Without those, the interior is just... wet. $80 a pair for aftermarket ones that Mazdatrix says they had made, and fit like factory. Reportedly, the usual suspects in automotive rubber seals (Soffseal, etc.) make them a little too fat. Window sweepers are $25 each, so another $100 there. Oh, I'm also probably going to be changing out the doors. My originals have rust at the bottom - nothing egregious, but I have another pair that doesn't have rust. I'll need to paint the inside edges of those, since they're originally light blue metallic. And I'll be stealing the power window regulators out of the GSL-SE parts car, as well. I did take a brief look at the carpet in the parts car, and pending unloading it to make sure the carpet is all in one piece, I think I will use that. It's an '84, and they had changed to carpet with a rubber mass backing rather than the largely no backing my original carpet had. I can just dye it black easily enough.
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Jul 28, 2021 20:49
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I didn't know there was a name brand for that wire loom. I usually buy it on ebay and I've been happy with it so far.
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Jul 28, 2021 21:43
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StormDrain posted:I didn't know there was a name brand for that wire loom. I usually buy it on ebay and I've been happy with it so far. The same stuff? braided loom, but also split like flex loom? Neat. I'll take a look. The stuff at WireCare starts at $0.60/ft., 10' chunks. Edit: seems like the eBay stuff is about the same price. WireCare is cheaper by a few cents/foot, but shipping is included/free on the eBay stuff. For the pile I've currently got in the cart: 10' each of 1/8", 1/4". 1/2", 1", 1-1/2", and a set of the split loom tools ($25 by themselves) is $79.94, plus $6.99 shipping. Per foot price ranges from $0.60 on the 1/8" to $3.75 on the 1-1/2". edit2: There's a seller on eBay selling actual Flexo F6 for like half price - until you get to 1"+. They may actually be the OEM, given that the store name is "flexrllc" (or that could be unrelated...) and all they sell is flex loom, shrink tubing and accessories. ...oh, never mind. They add shipping that knocks it back up to almost exactly the same price as WireCare. Also, It's about the same for the larger sizes, too, since I failed to notice that the 1" and 1-1/2" in my cart are 5' cuts. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Jul 28, 2021 |
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Jul 28, 2021 22:48
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Darchangel posted:The same stuff? braided loom, but also split like flex loom? Neat. I'll take a look. The stuff at WireCare starts at $0.60/ft., 10' chunks. Looks like the wirecare stuff is cheaper actually, shipping dependent, I used 1/4 and 3/8 sizing I think. So much better than the parts store corrugated stuff that turns into confetti after a few years of heat. And I'd order a bigger roll than 10', it sucks when you need a three foot long piece and only have a 2' scrap... And I hate hanging onto scraps hoping I find a home for them.
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Jul 28, 2021 23:11
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Darchangel posted:The same stuff? braided loom, but also split like flex loom? Neat. I'll take a look. The stuff at WireCare starts at $0.60/ft., 10' chunks. I wouldn't spend my money on the tool. My thumb has worked well enough for manipulating it. Maybe if it was my job.
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Jul 28, 2021 23:15
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StormDrain posted:I wouldn't spend my money on the tool. My thumb has worked well enough for manipulating it. Maybe if it was my job. They work on the standard corrugated split loom, too, which was more my interest. There are some cheaper variants out there, I think. That is a set of 5 tools in various sizes, so not a terrible price. Still, I could probably live without them just this second, and get more, say, 1/4" looming. 1/4" or 1/2" feels like it might be the most useful size(s). I may forego the 1.5" for now until I find a need. "flexrllc" prices on eBay get better in larger lengths, since the shipping doesn't seem to change, and $/ft is less (though $/ft also goes down for longer cuts at WireCare, too.)
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Jul 28, 2021 23:47
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Related: does anyone have any suggestion on harness tape to secure junctions and possibly ends, and general bundling before the looming? I've always used 3M or GB electrical tape, which is OK, but is there something better that isn't horribly expensive?
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Jul 28, 2021 23:55
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I can suggest you DON'T use this. I thought it would be the coolest thing, but it turns purple and is just not all that great to work with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jul 29, 2021 00:05
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Super 33+ for life!
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Jul 29, 2021 00:15
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Commodore_64 posted:I can suggest you DON'T use this. I thought it would be the coolest thing, but it turns purple and is just not all that great to work with.  For whatever it's worth, I've had basically my entire engine harness wrapped in this stuff for ~a year with no ill effect. I found it quite nice to work with, but it does take some getting used to. If you're going to use electrical tape, definitely second the Super 33+ recommendation - it's good stuff.
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Jul 29, 2021 04:08
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Krakkles posted:
I use the Tesa harness tape on all my looms too and like it. It discolours and fades a bit when exposed to UV for a long time (the run to the horn on the front of my landrover has faded as has the horn itself!) but is fine in the engine bay or inside the car. It is available in different widths so don't accidentally buy the 9mm one - you want the 19mm or greater one.
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Jul 29, 2021 14:47
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Commodore_64 posted:I can suggest you DON'T use this. I thought it would be the coolest thing, but it turns purple and is just not all that great to work with. Well, that's annoying, because that's what I was looking at over at WireCare.com. They make both an "interior" and an "exterior" version. I can't tell which on the above is. fake edit: Amazon listing says 51608, which according to WireCare is the interior product. Maybe that was your issue? 51026 (3/8") and 51036 (3/4") are the exterior version. This is the 3/4" on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Tesas-Advanced-Harness-51036-Mercedes/dp/B01I2MLN2Q/ Tomarse posted:I use the Tesa harness tape on all my looms too and like it. It discolours and fades a bit when exposed to UV for a long time (the run to the horn on the front of my landrover has faded as has the horn itself!) but is fine in the engine bay or inside the car. Yeah, I see the two different widths, thanks. StormDrain posted:Super 33+ for life! Yeah, 3M is good. Bargain-brand electrical tape... isn't, I discovered long ago. I don't think I've used Super 33+. Pretty sure I've always had 88. Looks like the major difference is the outdoor rating? Works for me. I'll pick up a roll for general use. The GB stuff is kinda meh. I'll pick up the underhood Tesa or an equivalent for finishing the braided covering. Worst case I'll remove it if I'm unsatisfied.
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Jul 29, 2021 17:11
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I had no idea there even was an exterior version! I had trouble enough finding that version 5 years ago when I bought it. I'll withdraw my criticisms.
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Jul 29, 2021 18:42
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Checked my old order, I got the exterior version. Phew. Mine hasn't been on as long, obviously, so time will tell, but I've been very happy with it so far.
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Jul 29, 2021 19:35
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There's one model of Tesa tape that's rated for engine bay usage, I assumed it was just an adhesive change but maybe there's more to it? Apparently it has a shelf life of a year as well?Darchangel posted:I have not yet looked. If Black Dragon was still around, it would be probable, but we lost that source years ago, sadly. Oh man, I think I still have the old Victoria British catalogues somewhere. I had an 83 GSL in highschool as my first car, so this thread has been conjuring up a lot of memories.
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Jul 29, 2021 20:23
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I bought a roll of this stuff and it's pretty nice to work with: https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-25...114&s=hi&sr=1-4 Definitely didn't need the fancy WireCare tool either. I probably could have (should have) picked up some of the bigger stuff for the fatter bundles coming right out of the back of the fuse panel, but there's enough overlap that I was able to get it covered with the 3/8" stuff. I just used some small black zip ties and flush cutters for securing it.
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Jul 29, 2021 21:08
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Darchangel posted:Related: does anyone have any suggestion on harness tape to secure junctions and possibly ends, and general bundling before the looming? I've always used 3M or GB electrical tape, which is OK, but is there something better that isn't horribly expensive? I used a 1" wide thin vinyl harness tape, with low adhesive on the 323. Thin enough, like the factory tape, and just sticky enough to adhere without leaving residue. Something like this, but from China and cheaper. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164982580092?hash=item2669ba637c:g:O~YAAOSwviNhAC~F I think its this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000839608621.html Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 04:24
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I use dry vinyl harness wrapping tape to bundle the wires themselves, then clad with split loom. Use tesa tape or super 33+ wrapped around the harness a few times and then passed through the slit (this anchors it a bit) then wrap around the junction of the looms in the way that makes the most sense to you. When dry vinyl wrapping, any section that needs some flex to it during installation or when moving should be left spiral wrapped with dry vinyl not fully overlap wrapped, or even stop on either side and use woven loom tubing on that section. I can't guarantee I'll ship in any reasonable amount of time but I've got an entire box of dry vinyl rolls here. I ordered 16 rolls years ago and I've barely made a dent in it. They're kind of dusty and dirty but it works fine for cars you're going to drive, just toss the outer few layers off the roll. Who wants one?
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Jul 30, 2021 05:33
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:There's one model of Tesa tape that's rated for engine bay usage, I assumed it was just an adhesive change but maybe there's more to it? Apparently it has a shelf life of a year as well? I miss them sorely. Their prices weren't always great, but they had the stuff! I assume the internet, and with it our ability to easily order OEM parts directly had some part in their death. Boaz MacPhereson posted:I bought a roll of this stuff and it's pretty nice to work with: https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-25...114&s=hi&sr=1-4 That's about the same price as, well, everywhere else. I guess there's not a lot of vendors or variation in that product. Krakkles posted:Checked my old order, I got the exterior version. Phew. It may just be the adhesive. The core difference appears to be temperature tolerance, which could easily come down the the sticky. Sgt Fox posted:I used a 1" wide thin vinyl harness tape, with low adhesive on the 323. Thin enough, like the factory tape, and just sticky enough to adhere without leaving residue. Oh, cool. Thanks. That's definitely good for the factory look. kastein posted:I use dry vinyl harness wrapping tape to bundle the wires themselves, then clad with split loom. Use tesa tape or super 33+ wrapped around the harness a few times and then passed through the slit (this anchors it a bit) then wrap around the junction of the looms in the way that makes the most sense to you. When dry vinyl wrapping, any section that needs some flex to it during installation or when moving should be left spiral wrapped with dry vinyl not fully overlap wrapped, or even stop on either side and use woven loom tubing on that section. Shoot, I'll take a roll just to have it handy. I'll have to figure out how to use it properly. How do you secure it? A little bit of sticky tape at the ends, or is it supposed to loop under itself or something?
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Jul 30, 2021 19:22
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You start by overlaying a few wraps - it's like cling film and sticks to itself under a little tension - and then keep it under tension while wrapping it, then finish off with glue, tesa tape or electrical tape.
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Jul 30, 2021 19:47
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