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What is this thing
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Jul 31, 2021 01:06
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| # ? May 24, 2024 05:01 |
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Fwiw, re: throttle body cleaning and other services, the Toyota dealer near me recommended a throttle body and combustion chamber cleaning on my Corolla and I pretty much was all 'gently caress that poo poo' for a while. Finally I did it to shut them up and i must admit, my car ran a lot better after it was done. There were times particularly on cold starts where it would shake and shudder and it cleared right up after that. But that service was recommended at something like 160,,000 km (100,000miles), and I probably had it done at closer to 200,000km. So yeah, probably not that necessary at 15k
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Jul 31, 2021 02:01
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Certain older Mazdas I'd probably say at 60k for throttle body. Modern cars have direct injection which may require valve cleaning, though some Toyotas and Lexuses have a system to combat that.
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Jul 31, 2021 02:12
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Anyone happen to have an encyclopedic knowledge of Konig wheels and know what these are? I'd like to try to find the hubcaps. 
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Jul 31, 2021 02:52
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Anyone see any serious/obvious problems with this 2008 Yaris?  
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Jul 31, 2021 04:01
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NotNut posted:Anyone see any serious/obvious problems with this 2008 Yaris? It's got a blown head gasket and a leaky radiator. There's a hole in the crankcase from a thrown rod. Second gear is stripped. No, there's no way we could possibly find anything seriously wrong based on a few exterior pictures
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Jul 31, 2021 04:05
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Deteriorata posted:It's got a blown head gasket and a leaky radiator. I just meant like how that one guy could tell there was a bad repair job on the last car I posted
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Jul 31, 2021 04:38
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It doesnt look terrible to me, but the exteriors not in great shape. If its the best youve found, it wouldnt hurt to have a mechanic inspect it before a purchase (this car or any).
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Jul 31, 2021 05:00
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Somewhat car relates, but my 99 Honda Accord has a key fob that is probably as old as the vehicle. Some of the buttons have started to crack exposing the wiring underneath. Unfortunately I cannot find out what brand this key fob is, all I can see is a faded black r on the back of the black fob. Doing image searches for car alarm key fobs does not show me the exact four button rounded corner fob that I have. Is this something I would have to get a new fob for? And how could I tell if this is aftermarket or one that came installed on the vehicle?
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Jul 31, 2021 06:14
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An F150 ran a red light and slammed in to me in my 2008 Yaris, smashing me in to the wall of circus circus. ++ Good for a 2008 Yaris.
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Jul 31, 2021 07:10
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Glad you came out okay, it would be pretty embarrassing to die at the circus circus.
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Jul 31, 2021 07:29
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bird with big dick posted:What is this thing I wonder if it's some implementation to produce more laminar flow in the intake tract. It looks very restrictive if that's the case.
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Jul 31, 2021 08:15
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Cowslips Warren posted:Somewhat car relates, but my 99 Honda Accord has a key fob that is probably as old as the vehicle. Some of the buttons have started to crack exposing the wiring underneath. Unfortunately I cannot find out what brand this key fob is, all I can see is a faded black r on the back of the black fob. Doing image searches for car alarm key fobs does not show me the exact four button rounded corner fob that I have. Is this something I would have to get a new fob for? And how could I tell if this is aftermarket or one that came installed on the vehicle? Not sure what you're asking. Is your key fob broken? Then you need a new one. If it still works, then you don't. You can't buy just replacement buttons for key fobs, if that's what you mean. But a new aftermarket one is only like $20. If you want to replacement, just go on Amazon and search for 1999 Honda Accord key fob. There will be lots of options with good reviews. When you get it you'll have to program it, which involves an obscure sequence of timed actions with your car and the remote. Here's how it works for your car: quote:Please follow the instructions step-by-step in order for the remote programming to work. These instructions are useful for 1998-2002 Honda Accord sedans and coupes. This procedure clears the transmitter codes and creates new ones, so you must program all remotes at the same time, even if one or more is already working. Maybe a little daunting at first but any goon should have enough experience with video games to pull it off. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 10:18
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2004 Kia Amanti/Opirus, the brake lights stay on even when the ignition is off and the "STOP LT" fuse is pulled. Can I find the short, or is it "buy another car and leave the Kia's battery unplugged until LeMons" time? If the latter, I have a coworker who is a former dirt-track racer who is interested in LeMons, and they have special rules for Asian luxobarges ...
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Jul 31, 2021 13:17
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Sagebrush posted:Not sure what you're asking. Is your key fob broken? Then you need a new one. If it still works, then you don't. You can't buy just replacement buttons for key fobs, if that's what you mean. But a new aftermarket one is only like $20. Thank you for this. No, it's not broken, just two of the buttons have cracked, exposing what's underneath wire-wise. It looks as though this might have been aftermarket install, I can't find anything in the owner's manual about an alarm system being installed, and I don't know how common car alarms were pre-installed in 1999. Since I don't know the model of the alarm company, will any key fob work that says it's for a 99 Honda accord? I am the rare goon who barely plays video games (Apex and Overwatch but that's about it). Cowslips Warren fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jul 31, 2021 |
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Jul 31, 2021 15:05
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Try posting a pic, for some reason I imagine someone like STR might be able to conjure up some info. But the logo might be known to somebody and can at least get you the manufacturer. But you should probably also look and see if there's anything obviously wired under the steering wheel. Edit : be sure no keyblades are visible in the pic (I doubt anyone is gonna clone your key but should just keep up good practices)
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Jul 31, 2021 15:52
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Cowslips Warren posted:Thank you for this. No, it's not broken, just two of the buttons have cracked, exposing what's underneath wire-wise. It looks as though this might have been aftermarket install, I can't find anything in the owner's manual about an alarm system being installed, and I don't know how common car alarms were pre-installed in 1999. Since I don't know the model of the alarm company, will any key fob work that says it's for a 99 Honda accord? By alarm do you mean the red panic button by chance? If so that's not aftermarket, pretty much every key fob has a red panic button that will start the horn honking when you hit it. If you don't want to try programming a replacement yourself, most of the chain auto parts stores will sell you one and set it up for you.
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Jul 31, 2021 16:02
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Is there any good reason a 2010 Mustang would show a check engine light and a tire pressure sensor failure in close proximity? Or just likely bad luck?
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Jul 31, 2021 16:23
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Could be literally millions of reasons unfortunately. Check your tire pressure as well. If the car has lots of seemingly unrelated fault codes it could be wire damage from a rodent or something, but that's very much jumping to conclusions. Get the codes read and go from there.
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Jul 31, 2021 17:04
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Id like to put a bigger rear sway bar on my 2017 outback, but the end link bolts are kinda rusty and didnt wanna budge when i used a ratchet on em. how can i remove them without turning this 15 minute job into a 3 day nightmare?
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Jul 31, 2021 17:07
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Chillbro Baggins posted:2004 Kia Amanti/Opirus, the brake lights stay on even when the ignition is off and the "STOP LT" fuse is pulled. Can I find the short, or is it "buy another car and leave the Kia's battery unplugged until LeMons" time? The brake lights are usually set up so that they always go on when the pedal is pressed, whether the car is running or not. STOP LT is probably for the third high-mounted light only. I think your brake light switch is not working properly and the car thinks the pedal is pressed. The brake light switch is hiding up near where the brake pedal hinges. Poke around at it and see if maybe something has cracked or bent and it's not actuating properly any more. It usually should be pressed when the pedal is released, and when you push on the pedal it lets the switch pop out and that turns on the lights. You should be able to push the switch with a screwdriver or something and have the lights go out. In my car, there's a little rubber disc on the pedal arm that pushes on the switch; one time that dried out and cracked and fell off, and without the thickness of that disc in place the pedal switch was allowed to stick out too far and the brake lights got stuck on. Maybe you have a similar situation and need a new rubber thingy. If poking the switch doesn't change anything, it probably needs to be replaced.
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Jul 31, 2021 18:43
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Mercedes strangely has the brake lights tied to the ignition switch, but that's the only one I know of. I hadn't heard of a 3rd lamp being on its own fuse before though, except maybe when they were first introduced in the 80s?
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Jul 31, 2021 19:03
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Head Bee Guy posted:Id like to put a bigger rear sway bar on my 2017 outback, but the end link bolts are kinda rusty and didnt wanna budge when i used a ratchet on em. how can i remove them without turning this 15 minute job into a 3 day nightmare? Cut them off with an angle grinder and get new links.
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Jul 31, 2021 19:28
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Cut them off with an angle grinder and get new links. I was going to wait for somebody with more experience than me to reply, but that seems drastic for a 2017? Borrowing an impact wrench from somebody might do the trick, maybe a torch? I'm on the best coast so don't have that much experience with this.
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Jul 31, 2021 19:42
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I don't know if they are nut/bolt connections, or if they are a nut on ball and socket type. But if nut on ball and socket, then a grinder is going to be the least amount of hassle compared to torching it and trying to hold the stud while turning the nut etc... New end links don't tend to be expensive. The most expensive ones on Rock auto are about 25 bucks for the 4 cylinder model.
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Jul 31, 2021 20:02
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Hey guys -- any recommendations for a device to read/edit codes on a 2015 VW Golf Sportswagen? I'm a computer toucher but have little experience, replaced the clock spring and now it's throwing errors. Everything is working now (horn, steering wheel controls, etc) but I'd like to tell the computer that there's a new part so those errors go away.
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Jul 31, 2021 22:34
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OBDEleven is what I used when I had a VW. https://obdeleven.com/en/
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Jul 31, 2021 22:52
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tehinternet posted:Hey guys -- any recommendations for a device to read/edit codes on a 2015 VW Golf Sportswagen? I'm a computer toucher but have little experience, replaced the clock spring and now it's throwing errors. Everything is working now (horn, steering wheel controls, etc) but I'd like to tell the computer that there's a new part so those errors go away. I always used a pirated version of VCDS (formerly known as VAG COM) and a USB vagcom cable clone from China. Worked flawlessly, VCDS is as good if not better than the factory scantool and used by VAG professionals. Takes some getting used to though it's not exactly user friendly. The manufacturer's (Ross tech) wiki is a wonderful resource too. It's all a bit 1998 style but it works and is very much up to date for later models. I just checkend and the "enthusiast" edition is $199 including the cable.
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Jul 31, 2021 23:28
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i flunked out posted:What would be the most cost effective/at home route to taking down a 2000 GMC Sonoma around 3-5 inches? It's mostly a daily driver and the heaviest load it hauls is 3 mtb. I'm not at all worried about reducing the carrying capacity because it basically never carries things anyways. 3" in the front / 5" in the back? Lowering springs and spindles up front and an axle flip for the back. DJM, Belltech, Maxtrac, Ground Force. Mix and match between them. If it's a DD, I would maybe only go 2" in the front which you should be able to do with just spindles (but that might force minimum rim diameter). Just an axle flip in the rear on a Sonoma/S-10 is probably 4" and then shackles and/or a spacer between the leaf pack and axle would be how the remaining drop would be reached. Try and maintain as much shock travel as you can on a DD. Edit: Up front, there's geometry correction to worry about with lowering springs past a certain point. I can't lower my front end past 3" without adjustable upper control arms due to negative camber gain.
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Jul 31, 2021 23:39
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Sagebrush posted:You should be able to push the switch with a screwdriver or something and have the lights go out. In my car, there's a little rubber disc on the pedal arm that pushes on the switch; one time that dried out and cracked and fell off, and without the thickness of that disc in place the pedal switch was allowed to stick out too far and the brake lights got stuck on. Maybe you have a similar situation and need a new rubber thingy. I guess it's good that it fails safe, but ... there has to be a better way to do that.
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Aug 1, 2021 00:20
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Nice, glad it was an easy fix. And I don't think there's really a better way to do it. It's a moving point of contact between two parts -- something is inevitably going to wear out eventually. Rather than having two metal parts rubbing against each other until they're misshapen and no longer work, requiring replacement of the whole switch or pedal, you put a 10 cent rubber disc in place as an intentional wear part and just expect to replace it at some point. I 3D printed a new disc for mine from rubber filament, but your tire rubber + gaffer tape solution is probably just as good. e: well like I guess you could do a non-contact, fully-solid-state system with a magnet and a hall effect sensor and MOSFET for the lamp control. That would effectively never wear out. But it would also probably cost more than a mechanical switch (which the car company already has 50 million of) and a rubber disc. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Aug 1, 2021 |
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Aug 1, 2021 01:23
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Text replies from craigslist asking for me to email them are probably weird scams, right? Ex". I Want to buy your . 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - $1,500 (*****, NY) .Email me if it's available [ connieljohnson728@gmail.com ] " Just got like 3 of these, all weirded very strangely but differently with different emails so just want to make sure it's not some weird cl response option or something.
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Aug 1, 2021 02:02
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DildenAnders posted:Text replies from craigslist asking for me to email them are probably weird scams, right? Ex". I Want to buy your . 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - $1,500 (*****, NY) Absolutely spam garbage. If you feel anything off, no matter how minor, when dealing with craiglist or facebook marketplace then they are always spam or scams.
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Aug 1, 2021 02:42
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Cowslips Warren posted:Thank you for this. No, it's not broken, just two of the buttons have cracked, exposing what's underneath wire-wise. It looks as though this might have been aftermarket install, I can't find anything in the owner's manual about an alarm system being installed, and I don't know how common car alarms were pre-installed in 1999. Since I don't know the model of the alarm company, will any key fob work that says it's for a 99 Honda accord? Get a picture of the FCC ID on the back. It may be pretty heavily worn, but a good close-up picture may make it readable. Or if you pop it open, there may be an FCC ID on the board.
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Aug 1, 2021 03:22
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spankmeister posted:I always used a pirated version of VCDS (formerly known as VAG COM) and a USB vagcom cable clone from China. Worked flawlessly, VCDS is as good if not better than the factory scantool and used by VAG professionals. Takes some getting used to though it's not exactly user friendly. The manufacturer's (Ross tech) wiki is a wonderful resource too. It's all a bit 1998 style but it works and is very much up to date for later models. I appreciate the response Ill see what I can do. Thanks!
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Aug 1, 2021 15:09
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Sagebrush posted:e: well like I guess you could do a non-contact, fully-solid-state system with a magnet and a hall effect sensor and MOSFET for the lamp control. That would effectively never wear out. But it would also probably cost more than a mechanical switch (which the car company already has 50 million of) and a rubber disc. KakerMix posted:If you feel anything off, no matter how minor, when dealing with craiglist or facebook marketplace then they are always spam or scams.
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Aug 2, 2021 05:40
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I found my E36 on Craigslist and it was totally great
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Aug 2, 2021 05:51
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also like a ton of old hifi and pro audio gear
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Aug 2, 2021 05:51
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Or, y'know, have the switch work the way switches usually do., and put it below the hinge and press for lights on. You want the lights to go on the moment the pedal is pressed, but the pedal keeps going down quite a bit further from there. If you had the switch underneath the pedal, it would have to be some weird long-travel thing that actuates right at the beginning of its stroke but can be pushed in another inch or two while remaining connected. The switch would probably wear out faster because it's constantly moving in and out as you vary the brakes. By designing the switch to be normally closed and putting it above the pedal, you can use a regular short-stroke switch and the circuit immediately engages when the pedal moves out of the way. The initial click is the only time the switch moves. It's a better setup.
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Aug 2, 2021 06:24
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| # ? May 24, 2024 05:01 |
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Yeah. My brother bought a vehicle from Craigslist. He and his buddy that drove him to pick it up were both carrying pistols. Everything went well and they didn't have to use them, but ... Craigslist.. Lmfao loving Americans thinking they be Wyatt Earp or some poo poo. You're buying a car, it's not high noon at the OK Corral.
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Aug 2, 2021 06:40
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