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Oh god painted on receptacles. I just painted six rooms in 3 weekends. I will not be doing that again any time soon. Fun findings: - receptacles that had 4 layers of paint on and in (!) them interwoven with 2 additional layers of flock wallpaper - receptacles that were mounted in what I can only describe as rubble, held in place by several layers of flock wallpaper - receptacles that took most of the mud with them for several inches out because they were painted so thickly to the wall - a fitted wardrobe that, in order for it to be fitted had the skirting boards and plaster down to the floorboards removed so there is a gaping void 2" wide down to the ceiling below - a layer of dirty beige paint that wipes off like powder in the kitchen, revealing an even darker shade of chocolate brown paint beneath it. Who paints their kitchen chocolate brown? - when buying a house, check that the PO actually connected the extractor hose rather than leaving a 3" hose hanging loose above a 4" extractor hood outlet. I was only saved from hours of scrubbing grease by the poo poo powdery paint under it just rolling off - blu-tac is evil - lead paint is evil, but less so than blu-tac On the plus side I can now cut in a pretty clean line for 2-3 feet before spectacularly losing control of the brush and daubing the ceiling I just finished, up from 1 foot on day one. Still have no idea how to cut in a corner properly though.
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Jul 31, 2021 23:32
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You're a legend for doing that much that quickly, based on the difficulty level you just described. I hate loose and crooked outlets so much. I think for corners you just have to use the tip of the brush and poke it in there.
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Jul 31, 2021 23:42
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That's the approach I used. It's fine for internal edges but a three-point corner when the ceiling is a different colour means I nearly always left some paint where it shouldn't be.
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Aug 1, 2021 00:09
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Yeah that's what I assumed you meant. I get close and then with a semi dry brush kind of walk it in and push the paint over.
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Aug 1, 2021 00:23
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I assume you checked out the video from Canadian Home Jesus right? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eUxz_or2Qs I watched it fully but haven't painted anything yet, so when I do I'm going to rewatch it and take notes. (if I decide I'm not lazy enough to simply pay $300 for a room and let someone else do it. They'll probably screw it up though and they definitely aren't thorough like this guy) Inner Light fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Aug 1, 2021 |
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Aug 1, 2021 00:28
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Inner Light posted:I assume you checked out the video from Canadian Home Jesus right? Yep, this is the video that got me off my rear end and up a ladder. The advice there is excellent and really helped. Only things that he doesn't really cover in it are how to handle corners and despite what he says about cutting a line being simple, I think his years of experience and the perfect surfaces he is dealing with play a part. I'm dealing with a century old house with several different wall finishes from raw plaster, heavily painted with unknown paint types, freshly stripped but with underlying paint, overpainted popcorn and concrete. Cutting in on an uneven surface is tricky since the first pass usually misses a few low spots. e: another thing that is helpful if you're a newbie: Have a bucket of water and a sponge nearby. You will almost certainly get paint where you don't want it and if it's water based you can run the sponge along the surface to wipe it off. After each pass rinse the sponge fully or you'll just drag the paint further. StarkingBarfish fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Aug 1, 2021 |
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Aug 1, 2021 00:36
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What about the tried and true strategy of taping what you think is an excessive amount of tape on the opposite wall and having paint get through anyway?
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Aug 1, 2021 00:52
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I found paint under the tarp I had put down and have absolutely no idea how it got there since the tarp was spotless 
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Aug 1, 2021 00:59
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StarkingBarfish posted:Oh god painted on receptacles. I just painted six rooms in 3 weekends. Goddamn you're a fuckin paint maniac! Respect  I'm not looking forward to painting room after room after room, especially when ~60% of the wall I have to orbital sand to take the sand additive "texture" away and re-patch the absolute dogshit patches my POs did.
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Aug 1, 2021 01:05
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Williamsburg reproduction golf course house has me so loving busy i haven't time to post or read posts. Current fire drill (aside from having to call back every single contractor I've used, multiple times, to fix shoddy work, even though I "hired the best in the area") is replacing every single water shutoff valve in the house (other than the main one, which was replaced before I got here). The house is on a well and the water has been untreated from 1967 until sometime this week when my filters and softener arrive, anyhow the water is acidic and nary a single shutoff valve works anymore, all the faucets and shower controls are spotty as well. Also had to replace the wax ring on a toilet and I'm pretty sure what was on there was original to the house 😬 (also first time I've ever dealt with a cast iron toilet flange and copper drain pipes). Had big plans for home networking and thats all on hold for at least one more day.
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Aug 1, 2021 07:20
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Isn’t homeownership wonderful?
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Aug 1, 2021 08:18
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What is a house? Just a miserable pile of deferred maintenance.
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Aug 1, 2021 12:48
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I made the mistake of volunteering to replace a friend's old bathroom faucet and drain with a new one. Was going well until I went to loosen the nut on the p-trap and the old brass assembly literally crumbled to pieces. Furthermore the j-bend is fused to the galvanized steel stub out of the wall at the atomic level. Ended up deciding cutting the j-bend off and using a fernco is the way to go after 3 hours of loving with it. Except every hardware store in the area is sold out of the fernco size I need so the project is delayed until Amazon delivers them. Additionally the cutoff valves for the faucet had 3/8" male compression ends on them and I had to find adapter fittings to connect modern hoses to them. What a pain in the rear end, and it's not even my house!
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Aug 1, 2021 15:16
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How much of a problem is this? I’ve been getting some spam mail addressed to “MY ADDRESS, INC” for a few weeks. I googled it today and there seems to be a business registered with NY, with the name “MY ADDRESS, INC” with my address listed as the business address. It was registered in march 2015, two owners ago. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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Aug 1, 2021 20:05
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:How much of a problem is this? AFAIK some flippers do this (create a business with the address as it's name, use that for buying he house, paying contractors, etc). It'll probably show up on the deed if you go back to that period.
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Aug 1, 2021 22:42
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Johnny Truant posted:Goddamn you're a fuckin paint maniac! Respect Reading that post helped me come to terms with the fact that there is no way my wife and I will be able to prime & paint six rooms within the next two weeks and that is totally okay. We’re getting close to move-in though. Once the bedrooms and dining room are painted we can get the floors redone and finally get our poo poo in for real. This house has been an absolute bear but I’m glad we did what we did now.  
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Aug 2, 2021 01:41
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"That's weird, why isn't the ground light on this surge protector on?" lead to rewiring 10 outlets with reversed hot/neutral (and one where they just didn't bother to connect the ground)  How do you screw that up for literally all the outlets in a basement?
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Aug 2, 2021 02:10
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Fallom posted:"That's weird, why isn't the ground light on this surge protector on?" lead to rewiring 10 outlets with reversed hot/neutral (and one where they just didn't bother to connect the ground) You screw it up for the first in the chain and then repeat the screwup for every subsequent one to make the outlet tester happy.
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Aug 2, 2021 02:21
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I nearly had a stroke of good luck doing a repair, but thankfully my house caught itself before things got too easy and found a way to make my life more difficult. I had some squirrels chew through some wiring in the attic, which burnt out the drivers on some LED can lights I had in the bathroom. The electrician who fixed the wiring thought they were retrofit lights where the driver was a part of the whole unit, so I picked up some new lights and spent an hour in the attic cleaning up so I could change them. Eventually, I figured out they were just.. well I'm not sure what to call them, but it's an LED wafer that fits into a recessed fixture and screws into the light bulb base. So I take back my pair of $30 integrated recessed LED lights, agonize for an hour over the right recessed LED, and get them home and install them. Only to discover after I've installed them that they're for "damp" locations and it turns out above the shower is actually a "wet" location. So I need to go back again, get the ones that are wet rated (that I almost got first time around) and swap them out. That leaves me with a pair of damp-rated LED lights. That I could probably stick back into the boxes and return. Or I could double down, buy a pair of $18 recessed housings, and install them somewhere like in my basement, where the low ceiling plus exposed bulb fixtures always make me nervous I'm gonna be moving something and knock a light bulb out.
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Aug 2, 2021 16:41
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Had the hose bib on the back of the house blow completely out of the goddamn pipe today, spigot and all, spewing water all over the backyard next to the house which immediately found heretofore unknown openings and flowed straight into the basement. Luckily I was able to use the shutoff valve and the basement is (and will remain) unfinished so it wasn't horrific but now I gotta work on getting the basement sealed which was most assuredly not in the budget. Goddamn it.
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Aug 2, 2021 21:59
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Beef Of Ages posted:Had the hose bib on the back of the house blow completely out of the goddamn pipe today, spigot and all, spewing water all over the backyard next to the house which immediately found heretofore unknown openings and flowed straight into the basement. This I want to see.
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Aug 2, 2021 22:36
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StormDrain posted:This I want to see. Username/post combo 
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Aug 2, 2021 23:19
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I just replaced 38 outlets in my house this weekend, as with any repetitive task you get pretty good after awhile and I can probably knock out a full outlet swap including faceplates in under 3 minutes each now. That was just the second floor, I get to do the other ~35 on the first floor next weekend 
FCKGW fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Aug 2, 2021 |
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Aug 2, 2021 23:31
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StormDrain posted:This I want to see. The masochist that is a stalwart resident of the sixth concentric circle of hell (also known as a homeowner) in me does as well, but I sufficed with the recollection of the concrete contractors who were cleaning their equipment after pouring the new sidewalk adjacent to the garage slab that they poured on Saturday. Apparently, the spigot that was on the pipe was itself threaded; repeated use loosened it to the point where the pressure shot the whole unit out like a goddamn harpoon and it landed about eight feet away. After turning off the water, we put it all back in and turned the water on but nothing would come out of it still. I turned the water back off and, upon doing so, noticed a small drop of water coming down the handle of the shutoff valve. Outstanding.  So now I have a plumber coming on Thursday at 8AM to unfuck the whole thing. Then I get to start finding out what it's going to cost to seal all the areas where there was clear water ingress. Rough estimate from my magic eight ball has come back, unsurprisingly, with: Go gently caress Yourself. Isn't being a homeowner the best?
Beef Of Ages fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 2, 2021 23:35
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Dang I was imagining it corroded away until a quick shutoff shocked it and the pipe snapped.
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Aug 2, 2021 23:40
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Painttalk: a couple of fun tips I've picked up from talking to the crusty old guys who run the local California Paints distributor. - Do not be afraid to spend good money on a couple of brushes. My favorite brushes in general are sash brushes which are cut at an angle and make corners way easier. Get an oval one and a standard rectangle profile in at least a 2.5". Plan on spending about $15-20 a brush. - Buy some propylene glycol. One common brand of this is "XIM Latex X-Tender". The paint companies have had to cut way back on the amount of glycol in paint to meet environmental requirements. You will not believe what a difference this stuff makes in terms of paint flow, particularly on trim. - Buy the best quality paint you can afford. I am partial to California but Sherwin Williams is good too. Good paint means better coverage in fewer coats particularly on dark surfaces. It also holds up better and is easier to clean. - Wash the surfaces to be painted, with TSP if you can buy it, TSP substitute if not. Any kind of grease, oil, dirt on the surface is what will cause paint to fail. TSP also deglosses the old surface and allows the new coat to bind better. I loving hate painting, so when I do it I want it to be the first and last time, and I have now painted two houses worth of rooms. I'm now really good at this lovely loving task, and the above tips are the product of dozens of hours of doing it. Could have saved a lot of those hours if I'd known them in advance.
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Aug 3, 2021 03:07
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skybolt_1 posted:
What's the reason for the cutback? Basically I'm wondering if it's adding something back into the paint that's going to give me cancer in ten years, or if it's the sort of thing that making full fat paint is terrible for the rain forest.
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Aug 3, 2021 04:05
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Can I pour a few shots of fireball in my paint for the same effect? Fake edit, dang they took PG out of it.
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Aug 3, 2021 04:22
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Cyrano4747 posted:What's the reason for the cutback? Looks like the main culprit isn't actually propylene glycol but ethylene glycol. Found this while googling: in the mid-1980s, Dunn-Edwards replaced ethylene glycol (a toxic solvent widely used in latex paints) with propylene glycol, which performs similarly. Unlike ethylene glycol, however, propylene glycol is non-toxic and is on the FDA’s list of compounds “generally regarded as safe” for use in foods, beverages, cosmetics and medicines. Most paint manufacturers still use ethylene glycol. They are both VOCs but it sounds like ethylene is more so.
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Aug 3, 2021 12:03
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Has anybody done any crawlspace sealing/encapsulation on an older home (home built in the 60's, so it has those openings in the crawlspace that were meant to allow air flow back before central heating/air units were a thing)? Is it "worth doing" as far as getting an estimate to have it done professionally vs. loving around buying poo poo at the local HD/Lowes and trying to do it myself and botching it up? EDIT: Mostly looking to put an end to any mold growth/etc. under the home and weighing the "is it worth me hurting myself attempting it, or just hire someone to do it, or is it even worth doing beyond plugging the crawlspace vents"? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 15:34
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Has anybody done any crawlspace sealing/encapsulation on an older home (home built in the 60's, so it has those openings in the crawlspace that were meant to allow air flow back before central heating/air units were a thing)? Is it "worth doing" as far as getting an estimate to have it done professionally vs. loving around buying poo poo at the local HD/Lowes and trying to do it myself and botching it up? Isn't the solution to mold growth ... more vents? Maybe I'm wrong but I always thought you want airflow. Mold grows in damp stale spaces and I imagine blocking off your vents will only make it worse. If you keep air flowing through there, it should limit mold. Also ensuring the entire earth surface is covered in a vapor barrier will help. Your HVAC shouldn't be pulling air from the crawlspace since they are often moldy, dusty, damp, and likely have some critter activity. A crawlspace and a basement are very different. Basements are usually living spaces so the airflow is similar to whats in the house. The crawlspace isn't meant to be livable so your HVAC shouldn't be affecting that air much at all, and definitely not pulling from it. Old houses didn't have great crawlspace ventilation which is why you see so many of them with mold issues now. Newer homes generally have required vents every so many feet per code depending on your area. The house we walked away from in January (Seattle - very wet winters) was a 1920s house with a 1993 addition that nearly doubled the square footage and added a lot of foundation footprint. They didn't add enough vents for the amount of foundation they added, and the dirt was maybe half covered with a vabor barrier so the subfloor was blanketed in mold. The attic also had mold issues because the venting was sub-par for the size. The inspector suggested nearly double the amount of foundation vents and for the attic, adding gable vents and possibly a passive/automated fan to keep the air flowing.
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Aug 3, 2021 16:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Has anybody done any crawlspace sealing/encapsulation on an older home (home built in the 60's, so it has those openings in the crawlspace that were meant to allow air flow back before central heating/air units were a thing)? Central heating was most definitely a thing in the 60s and long before. What you are describing is a space that is likely designed to be outside of the building envelope. It has nothing to do with "central heat". You can't just decide it's not part of the building envelope and close it off without causing massive mold problems. Someone who actually know what they are looking at needs to determine what is or is not appropriate or possible and how to achieve that without slowly destroying the building.
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Aug 3, 2021 16:12
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Anyone familiar with how easements work? We have an easement for our neighbors driveway at the back of our lot in the country. There's a huge pasture that borders us that the easement divides that has been for sale and I think some developer bought, there is already several gate access points off the actual main road but there are increasingly contractors coming out using the driveway/easement as a shortcut to get into this other plot that they are subdividing. Does the easement only apply to the neighbor / property it was granted? Do I have any potential legal recourse to tell these guys too gently caress off and use one of the half dozen gates on the main road? I'm concerned mostly because it seems like they're going to use it as the main thoroughfare for a new subdivision of vacation homes or something (according to my neighbor) and I don't a) want a bunch of heavy construction vehicles making GBS threads it up and b) don't want them to turn it into an entrance to said subdivision. Is a real estate lawyer the right type of lawyer to start talking to?
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Aug 3, 2021 17:29
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Mr. Crow posted:Anyone familiar with how easements work? We have an easement for our neighbors driveway at the back of our lot in the country. There's a huge pasture that borders us that the easement divides that has been for sale and I think some developer bought, there is already several gate access points off the actual main road but there are increasingly contractors coming out using the driveway/easement as a shortcut to get into this other plot that they are subdividing. Does the easement only apply to the neighbor / property it was granted? Do I have any potential legal recourse to tell these guys too gently caress off and use one of the half dozen gates on the main road? Just to be clear, even though I know you're already going to be looking for a lawyer, this is absolutely lawyer territory. The specific rules vary highly by jurisdiction, as well as the specific verbiage of the easement, so it can get complicated. I'd certainly start with real estate attorneys, and if if you get turned down ask for recommendations. Generally, easements like yours are granted to specific other entities, not to anyone who finds it convenient. There are cases where they can be forced on someone, such as when a lot is "landlocked" and has no other access, but that doesn't seem to be your case. Something to worry about is that if the driveway/road becomes commonly used, you can lose the right to tell people to gently caress off. So absolutely get ahead of this. edit: had some other stuff, but honestly you should probably run it by a lawyer first. Best bet is to put up fencing and a locked gate that only you and your neighbor have a key to, but ultimately you're going to want to run this (and any other potential solution) by a lawyer before you do anything. It's possible that the other property was allowed to use the easement as well, so you may not be allowed to cut them off. edit again: there may be verbiage in the easement that requires the other parties to help maintain it. So even if they're allowed to use it, they might have to pay for fixing it. Again, this can get very complicated, so a lawyer will definitely be needed so you know what your rights are. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 17:47
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Verman posted:Isn't the solution to mold growth ... more vents? Maybe I'm wrong but I always thought you want airflow. Mold grows in damp stale spaces and I imagine blocking off your vents will only make it worse. If you keep air flowing through there, it should limit mold. Also ensuring the entire earth surface is covered in a vapor barrier will help. Your HVAC shouldn't be pulling air from the crawlspace since they are often moldy, dusty, damp, and likely have some critter activity. A crawlspace and a basement are very different. Basements are usually living spaces so the airflow is similar to whats in the house. The crawlspace isn't meant to be livable so your HVAC shouldn't be affecting that air much at all, and definitely not pulling from it. Old houses didn't have great crawlspace ventilation which is why you see so many of them with mold issues now. Newer homes generally have required vents every so many feet per code depending on your area. The house we walked away from in January (Seattle - very wet winters) was a 1920s house with a 1993 addition that nearly doubled the square footage and added a lot of foundation footprint. They didn't add enough vents for the amount of foundation they added, and the dirt was maybe half covered with a vabor barrier so the subfloor was blanketed in mold. The attic also had mold issues because the venting was sub-par for the size. The inspector suggested nearly double the amount of foundation vents and for the attic, adding gable vents and possibly a passive/automated fan to keep the air flowing. You want airflow, but the explanation I got was that the humidity we're getting the last several years/decade is far higher than the old design was intended for, and the crawlspace (which would be considered a basement if it wasn't for the shallow height clearance everywhere) is poorly laid out with regard to where the furnace is located (literally in a hole in the ground in the crawlspace with enough clearance on the sides for someone to walk around it once they drop down into said hole). The furnace has a large air intake duct/line running up through the house and into the attic/out to vents that you can see from outside the home underneath the overhang of the roof where it extends past the brick walls (they look like floor registers, but they're upside-down). There is a whole industry down here centered around encapsulating and waterproofing crawlspaces (companies like ESOG and Aquaguard that run ads on literally every radio station, etc.), and the person that told me to get one of those companies out to inspect the crawlspace said something needed to be done with a nice little demonstration that the ventilation as-is couldn't keep up by running their hand along the HVAC ductwork and having water just pour off their hand onto the ground under the house as they crab-walked along some of the ductwork. Motronic posted:Central heating was most definitely a thing in the 60s and long before. If you could afford it. Two of the homes I looked at prior to this one had no central HVAC system of any kind. Just ceiling fans and scattered window units and the really old school gas furnaces mounted to different walls in the home. They had very similar crawlspaces under them, but they had less ground coverage on the walls around the crawlspace area (my home is near the top of a small hill/set into it on one side so that the crawlspace is completely beneath the earth on one wall). Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 18:18
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DaveSauce posted:Just to be clear, even though I know you're already going to be looking for a lawyer, this is absolutely lawyer territory. The specific rules vary highly by jurisdiction, as well as the specific verbiage of the easement, so it can get complicated. I'd certainly start with real estate attorneys, and if if you get turned down ask for recommendations.
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Aug 3, 2021 18:50
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You want airflow, but the explanation I got was that the humidity we're getting the last several years/decade is far higher than the old design was intended for, and the crawlspace (which would be considered a basement if it wasn't for the shallow height clearance everywhere) is poorly laid out with regard to where the furnace is located (literally in a hole in the ground in the crawlspace with enough clearance on the sides for someone to walk around it once they drop down into said hole). The solution to condensation on your ducts is usually to insulate the ducts by wrapping them in insulation. That way the outside does not get cold enough for the humidity to condensate on it. The thought behind encapsulating your crawl space is to expand the building envelope to it, so that the crawl space is air conditioned and heated with the rest of the building. This is usually accomplished by putting down some plastic sheets, running them up the walls of the crawl space, and taping it all together. You then have to seal up all the ventilation holes around the perimeter of the crawl space, and make sure any exterior hatches or any other points of exterior passthrough are sealed well. Even if you pay top dollar for the best people, it's still not going to end up very sealed compared to the rest of your house, so they stick a dehumidifier down there to deal with the inevitable air/water intrusion and resulting humidity. Unless you actively maintain this system over the years, something will probably go wrong and you'll get pooled water on top of the plastic sheeting, and it will cause you more problems in the long run. I've done a lot of research on it and decided against it in my 1950 home. I only very rarely on occasion have humidity issues in my crawl space, and they will be addressed by improving the drainage around my house (better grading, french drains, gutters) and a sump pump. tl;dr Retrofitting crawlspace encapsulation to older homes sounds good on paper but it usually falls apart in a few years and causes more headaches than it's worth. You're hearing so many ads for it because it basically prints money for these companies, not because it's a good idea. If you have moisture issues in your crawl space you should look into fixing why there is so much moisture in there, and correct that. e: Another option if you're concerned about mold growth on your framing lumber is to get Boracare with moldcare and spray it all over the lumber in your crawl space. It has the additional benefit of making it unattractive/poisonous to termites, carpenter ants, and wood beetles(which is why I primarily did it). SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 19:18
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SpartanIvy posted:The solution to condensation on your ducts is usually to insulate the ducts by wrapping them in insulation. That way the outside does not get cold enough for the humidity to condensate on it. They have insulation on them, sorry for not saying that. This condensation is forming on the outside of the insulation, so I guess all of that needs to be redone (since, if the insulation is done properly, there shouldn't be enough temperature variance for the condensation to form on it)?
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Aug 3, 2021 19:22
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biracial bear for uncut posted:They have insulation on them, sorry for not saying that. This condensation is forming on the outside of the insulation, so I guess all of that needs to be redone (since, if the insulation is done properly, there shouldn't be enough temperature variance for the condensation to form on it)? It has to be some combination of improper ventilation causing high humidity in your crawl space and low insulating value of the vent insulation allowing the exterior to be cool enough for condensate to form. If this only happens on occasion when there is bad weather and then everything dries up after the weather improves, it's probably not an actual issue as sometimes it's just that humid and wet. But if your crawl space is always humid enough that this happens all the time then I would definitely be looking into why and how to fix it. Your crawl space should not be considerably more humid than the outside air for very long. If it is then you have improper ventilation trapping humidity raising from the ground down there. Sorry for the vague answer, but there's a lot of factors in play with a problem like this, and it's sort of up to you to figure out which one is the one not in balance with the rest. Could be low insulation value on your vents, could be low ventilation in the crawl space, could be high humidity caused by other issues. I would thoroughly research the problem before you decide to dump a bunch of money on crawl space encapsulation and get results you aren't happy with. There's a lot of videos on youtube about it and it's a good way to see what you get, both good and bad, from it. The Crawlspace Ninja channel has some particularly nice videos, but be aware they're obviously trying to sell something with them.
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Aug 3, 2021 19:39
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DaveSauce posted:Just to be clear, even though I know you're already going to be looking for a lawyer, this is absolutely lawyer territory. The specific rules vary highly by jurisdiction, as well as the specific verbiage of the easement, so it can get complicated. I'd certainly start with real estate attorneys, and if if you get turned down ask for recommendations. Thanks this is helpful.
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Aug 3, 2021 20:24
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