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w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Eej posted:

Finally got around to finishing(?) up a 3d print I got from an Etsy ran by local goon w00tmonger. I can probably spend a lot more time on details and also fleshing out the base but this round boy has been sitting on my desk half done for like 2 months so I just filled in the blanks and I'm gonna move on to some other backlog.



He's real happy to see you

Hell yeah. This is good poo poo


This made my night as I sit slicing a plate on an old i5 acer without a graphics card

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Aug 3, 2021

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BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Skails posted:

Finished up some cultist to fill out my Helot Cult gang.



And here is the crew all together/



outstanding! did you freehand the icon?

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


late to decal chat but this 3 minute video is a very good demonstration of how to use microset and microsol and a couple of other tips to make the transfer indistinguishable from the paintjob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2TBhhAngUY

E: you can also gently roll (not push/brush) a q-tip over the decal to smooth it out if it’s really full of bubbles and creases and moving it around with brush or tweezers isn’t helping

jesus WEP fucked around with this message at 11:46 on Aug 3, 2021

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Managed to knock out a Rockgut in two days, very pleased (yes I know the mushroom looks like a tiny Christmas tree)

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
So I tried to recreate the box art for Kyria Draxus using blue instead of green and things got out of hand with the number and thickness of layers so things aren't as smooth as they could be. Thoughts on reworking or just strip and try again

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space

BULBASAUR posted:

outstanding! did you freehand the icon?

Thanks! It is, here’s a closer shot.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Finally got these guys done. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. The power weapons are a little rough but it's the first time I've tried any kind of blending/glazing so that's to be expected I think.
The weapons are magnetized in case I ever want to go to a gun or the axe. CC always welcome.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
So, my badger Patriot and compressor arrived today--only I was a moron and thought I was buying a set with a hose (I did not).

I know Badger has differently-sized fittings than normal. Is there a preferred hose?

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
95% Finished (need to base and maybe do a tad more highlighting) my first Blood Warrior. Pretty happy with how he turned out, although I struggled with the face and had to redo it a couple of times which shows up on the mini. Overall I think it will make for a nice army theme, although am thinking a few more highlights wouldn't go astray.

Happy for any comments

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Following up on the brush primer, did the other four guys with gesso to test my old method (and because I mixed way more than I intended to, oops). Way more even coatings, in exchange for a few fuzzy/rough patches where I wasn't careful about the touch ups. For test models, I'll live.

Did notice that after 20 minutes or so holding the paint brush was actively uncomfortable (as was holding the mini, but the etb foot slots prevent my usual cork under the base so that wasn't a surprise). Pain right along the usual pain sites for the nerve issues that have been developing since after I quit painting (unrelated causes). I hope this isn't a sign my lovely body is going to take another hobby away from me. :smith:

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

PoptartsNinja posted:

So, my badger Patriot and compressor arrived today--only I was a moron and thought I was buying a set with a hose (I did not).

I know Badger has differently-sized fittings than normal. Is there a preferred hose?

Any hose that will connect to your compressor is fine you just also need a Badger to 1/8" adapter.

orrrr you get a Badger quick disconnect plug for your airbrush and then have a quick disconnect coupler for your hose which makes life a lot easier because you don't have to screw and unscrew your airbrush every time and is even better down the road if you have multiple airbrushes.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

PotatoManJack posted:

95% Finished (need to base and maybe do a tad more highlighting) my first Blood Warrior. Pretty happy with how he turned out, although I struggled with the face and had to redo it a couple of times which shows up on the mini. Overall I think it will make for a nice army theme, although am thinking a few more highlights wouldn't go astray.

Happy for any comments



That's some good lookin brass. Love the color choices you've made.

Don't be afraid to thin down your paints even more or to go a bit heavier with your washes before your next highlighting layer. It'll really make your work pop.

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009

AndyElusive posted:

That's some good lookin brass. Love the color choices you've made.

Don't be afraid to thin down your paints even more or to go a bit heavier with your washes before your next highlighting layer. It'll really make your work pop.

Thanks very much for the advice - I'll definitely do this for next layer or wash/highlight.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

SkyeAuroline posted:

Did notice that after 20 minutes or so holding the paint brush was actively uncomfortable (as was holding the mini, but the etb foot slots prevent my usual cork under the base so that wasn't a surprise). Pain right along the usual pain sites for the nerve issues that have been developing since after I quit painting (unrelated causes). I hope this isn't a sign my lovely body is going to take another hobby away from me. :smith:

I hope not. I have some pain issues, I can't touch type for long and depending on how I hold a pen I can get a lot of pain very fast. My natural hold is a finger death grip I have to consciously relax. It might be worth looking at how you're physically holding the brush, an alternate grip might help a lot.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Verisimilidude posted:

Currently at second place in the makers cult painting competition. If you can please vote! (For me, buttcheeksio)

https://www.patreon.com/posts/54436639

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007


+1 for you dude

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Eej posted:

orrrr you get a Badger quick disconnect plug for your airbrush and then have a quick disconnect coupler for your hose which makes life a lot easier because you don't have to screw and unscrew your airbrush every time and is even better down the road if you have multiple airbrushes.

Pssst ! You really want the quick change coupler. I've got one and when I'm done cleaning the brush, I just unhook it with one hand, pop the brush into its pot and coil up the hose with the other. I can't imagine unscrewing every time, that would suck so bad..

Unoriginal Name
Aug 1, 2006

by sebmojo
Army Painter paints suck so bad

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009

Unoriginal Name posted:

Army Painter paints suck so bad

Really - can you elaborate as to why? I'm curious as I was looking at potentially picking some up to add to my current citadel paints.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

SkyeAuroline posted:

Following up on the brush primer, did the other four guys with gesso to test my old method (and because I mixed way more than I intended to, oops). Way more even coatings, in exchange for a few fuzzy/rough patches where I wasn't careful about the touch ups. For test models, I'll live.

Did notice that after 20 minutes or so holding the paint brush was actively uncomfortable (as was holding the mini, but the etb foot slots prevent my usual cork under the base so that wasn't a surprise). Pain right along the usual pain sites for the nerve issues that have been developing since after I quit painting (unrelated causes). I hope this isn't a sign my lovely body is going to take another hobby away from me. :smith:

Could be worth checking out brushes with a fatter/contoured handle, if you arent already? I dont have any particular pain issues, but I do find the ones with a triangular handle more comfortable for long paint sessions. Army Painter do "masterclass" brushes with that shape, but most of mine are cheapo Wish.com brushes with a similar shape. And personally I find corks (while better than nothing) a little narrow to be an ideal painting handle, I have a bought citadel painting handle which isnt bad, but 90% of my painting is done using old vitamin C bottles or rattle can lids which feel comfortable to hold.


PotatoManJack posted:

Really - can you elaborate as to why? I'm curious as I was looking at potentially picking some up to add to my current citadel paints.

Cant speak for this guy, but the most common issue people seem have with Army Painter paints is their consistency/separating in the bottle. I personally like them fine, but some of them absolutely NEED an agitator in the bottle (although if you have one of those vortex mixers that probably eliminates the issue).

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

SiKboy posted:

Cant speak for this guy, but the most common issue people seem have with Army Painter paints is their consistency/separating in the bottle. I personally like them fine, but some of them absolutely NEED an agitator in the bottle (although if you have one of those vortex mixers that probably eliminates the issue).

Maybe I just got a bad batch, but even with agitators and a vortex mixer, some of my paints are nearly unusable. The reds, greens, and blues are awful; they're weirdly gel-like and don't thin well with water.

The white, off-whites, grays, and browns are good though. The white in particular is great to work with.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

I've had issues with batch consistency with Army painter. Sometimes I'll get a dropper that's just fine and other times it will be unusable. As such I only get Army Painter if I have no other option like if I desperately need a specific color and only the shop that sells Army Painter is open.

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

Loden Taylor posted:

Maybe I just got a bad batch, but even with agitators and a vortex mixer, some of my paints are nearly unusable. The reds, greens, and blues are awful; they're weirdly gel-like and don't thin well with water.

The white, off-whites, grays, and browns are good though. The white in particular is great to work with.

That's interesting because I'm on the lookout for a good white. I find the Vallejo silver grey and off white bottles have a very small range from too thick to chalky when thinned. I read that using either high grade artist titanium white or zinc white depending on the situation may be better.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Army Painter sprays are pretty good, fwiw

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

MasterBuilder posted:

That's interesting because I'm on the lookout for a good white. I find the Vallejo silver grey and off white bottles have a very small range from too thick to chalky when thinned. I read that using either high grade artist titanium white or zinc white depending on the situation may be better.

I just mix Vallejo white (the regular white, it's literally just called Blanco) with white ink and it works perfectly.

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

Spanish Manlove posted:

I just mix Vallejo white (the regular white, it's literally just called Blanco) with white ink and it works perfectly.

It's more when I went too far with a darker fade and want to walk it back a bit. I can get it to work but it is very finicky and prone to gradient lines.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

SiKboy posted:

Could be worth checking out brushes with a fatter/contoured handle, if you arent already? I dont have any particular pain issues, but I do find the ones with a triangular handle more comfortable for long paint sessions. Army Painter do "masterclass" brushes with that shape, but most of mine are cheapo Wish.com brushes with a similar shape. And personally I find corks (while better than nothing) a little narrow to be an ideal painting handle, I have a bought citadel painting handle which isnt bad, but 90% of my painting is done using old vitamin C bottles or rattle can lids which feel comfortable to hold.

I'm hopeful it's just a brush issue - my priming brush is some Michaels generic thing, most of my painting is done with W&Ns and I haven't even held it since starting back up yet. Round handles but they did well enough for a long time, hopefully still fine...

Eediot Jedi posted:

I hope not. I have some pain issues, I can't touch type for long and depending on how I hold a pen I can get a lot of pain very fast. My natural hold is a finger death grip I have to consciously relax. It might be worth looking at how you're physically holding the brush, an alternate grip might help a lot.

Thanks. Did you end up with an alternate grip that's helped besides "just relax"?

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



PotatoManJack posted:

Really - can you elaborate as to why? I'm curious as I was looking at potentially picking some up to add to my current citadel paints.

Every AP paint I have has been bad in a different way. Too thin, chalky, seperates immediately, covers terribly. It's a rich tapestry.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

SkyeAuroline posted:

I'm hopeful it's just a brush issue - my priming brush is some Michaels generic thing, most of my painting is done with W&Ns and I haven't even held it since starting back up yet. Round handles but they did well enough for a long time, hopefully still fine...

Thanks. Did you end up with an alternate grip that's helped besides "just relax"?

I recommend hand stretches. basically lock your elbow and pull back on each finger for ten seconds and then forward for ten as well.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Would having a bigger grip help? What about chopping the end off a nerf dart and feeding a brush through that?

I don't have it in front of me, but the army painter D&D line instructions insert seems to indicate that they added a layer of medium as packing material. You're supposed to squirt some out before shaking? The instruction leaflet was a bit confusing. I use a vortexer, so my problems have been minimal.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

MasterBuilder posted:

That's interesting because I'm on the lookout for a good white.

I've gotten good use out of Reaper's pure white, although I generally use it to fix little gently caress-ups before I paint other colors. I don't know how it compares to Vallejo.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


vallejo model colour white (70.951) and white grey (70.993) are both incredibly good

Unoriginal Name
Aug 1, 2006

by sebmojo
I have a variety of problems with Army painter but its usually some weird medium problem. Either separation or bad thinning or chalky as gently caress whites

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


disclaimer: i haven’t tried this myself

our lord and saviour vince venturella recommends putting a little gloss medium into white paint to keep it smooth, you apparently can’t really tell it’s glossy because pure white is already about as light-reflective as it gets

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I'm really liking Monument's Pro Acryl Bright Titanium White. Good smooth coverage. They have some nice light grays and ivories too.

For off-whites I've been very happy with some of the Vallejo Model colors, Insignia White is just barely a warm white-grey, and Light Gull Gray is a very light cool gray.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Do yourself a favor and get some Liquitex Acrylic Gouache white. It's like $9 and you get a ton of it, and it works exactly the same as all other acrylic paints. It's also insanely matte.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007

Bucnasti posted:

I'm really liking Monument's Pro Acryl Bright Titanium White.

This is a good one, one of the best along side the white from Kimera.

Verisimilidude posted:

Do yourself a favor and get some Liquitex Acrylic Gouache white.

These and other actual artist acrylics are also fantastic, a lot of artist grade paints are just better than most miniature paints, especially when it comes to more primary colors.

Oil paints also do fantastic whites, but that's more of an adventure than some people want even if they are wonderful. Oils really are a great thing to work with and have in your toolbox, especially when working on larger miniatures, the ease of blending is unparalled.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang
I want to do some OSL-like effect on a piece of rock. As I understand the best way is to do a base coat with white ink, then apply a glaze. I want to do it with my airbrush but it's obviously very delicate work. If I think my ink too much it's very "flowy" so I reckon I need to get a very low PSI and not much paint. In this scenario do I have to just apply several layers (so the center is very bright) ? Because if I think the ink a lot it doesn't seem to cover much.

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

Cinara posted:

Oil paints also do fantastic whites, but that's more of an adventure than some people want even if they are wonderful. Oils really are a great thing to work with and have in your toolbox, especially when working on larger miniatures, the ease of blending is unparalled.

Oil paints seem like a bit too much of a faff for all but competitive work but the on model mixing is pretty nuts. See V.V.

And thanks for the white paint suggestions all.

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MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

Furism posted:

I want to do some OSL-like effect on a piece of rock. As I understand the best way is to do a base coat with white ink, then apply a glaze. I want to do it with my airbrush but it's obviously very delicate work. If I think my ink too much it's very "flowy" so I reckon I need to get a very low PSI and not much paint. In this scenario do I have to just apply several layers (so the center is very bright) ? Because if I think the ink a lot it doesn't seem to cover much.
Edit: I think I misunderstood the question leaving for prosperity.

Look for a box on the bottle of white ink. Empty is translucent, half full is semi and a full box is opaque. It's most likely opaque and if so has quite strong (surprisingly so) coverage. Definitely do a test spray before going whole hog.

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