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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I've never reused pins. In your case I'd just pop the reused pins out and stick a second quicklink on the chain.

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Cuntpunch
Oct 3, 2003

A monkey in a long line of kings

evil_bunnY posted:

I've never reused pins. In your case I'd just pop the reused pins out and stick a second quicklink on the chain.

That had not even occurred to me - and sounds so obvious in hindsight.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
You can't reuse pins in chains above 9sp, don't try cause it'll end in tears.

Cuntpunch
Oct 3, 2003

A monkey in a long line of kings

SimonSays posted:

You can't reuse pins in chains above 9sp, don't try cause it'll end in tears.

Yep, couldn't find my spare quicklink, so rode on the reused chain the 4km round trip to the nearest shop and back to just grab a new chain. Expensive lesson learnt. And have ordered the Blue Book, a quicklink tool, and chain stretch-checker from Park Tools for next time.

Once the book is in, going to read up and decide how comfortable I am with truing wheels - as my front is *slightly* off-true right now.

wibble
May 20, 2001
Meep meep
I replaced the oil in my brakes for the first time last night as the lever started to travel all the way while I was out on a ride. I thought I would have a go as it would have to go to the shop anyway.
It went surprisingly well with no issues and seems fine on a ride today. But I'm just wondering what causes the oil to turn from pink to this grey/black color? There was quite a lot of it.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant
dirt and oxidation i think

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug
I didn't size my chain, I just threw it on there. It fell off several times in small/small and big/small when I hit some bumps during a downhill when I wasn't pedaling. So I did the rest of the ride without going to the smallest cog on my cassette then took a couple links out now it's fine. You could also follow the advice of experts on sizing it right in the first place. If you're going to stress test it for being too big, put it in small/small and do a downhill with bumps that will knock it off the cog.

Cuntpunch
Oct 3, 2003

A monkey in a long line of kings
Replaced chain - went for a 20km round-trip ride, with a stop for vaccination in the middle - noticed that when at cadence - primarily in the highest gear, there was a certain specific *feel* that went along with pedaling. No noise, and it definitely wasn't a "hey, chain is gunked up" feel - I'd almost want to call it a "micro-vibration" or possibly just a very acute feeling of the chain interfacing with the teeth?

This a possible symptom of, oh god, official advice about chain length being wrong and that it really should be that extra link shorter? Heck, could it just be a feeling associated to slightly different chaintech? Stock chain was SLX, shop had XTR - the only major difference being the hollow pins, but maybe that creates a resonance?

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Cuntpunch posted:

Replaced chain - went for a 20km round-trip ride, with a stop for vaccination in the middle - noticed that when at cadence - primarily in the highest gear, there was a certain specific *feel* that went along with pedaling. No noise, and it definitely wasn't a "hey, chain is gunked up" feel - I'd almost want to call it a "micro-vibration" or possibly just a very acute feeling of the chain interfacing with the teeth?

This a possible symptom of, oh god, official advice about chain length being wrong and that it really should be that extra link shorter? Heck, could it just be a feeling associated to slightly different chaintech? Stock chain was SLX, shop had XTR - the only major difference being the hollow pins, but maybe that creates a resonance?
Probably just that your cassette and chainring are a little worn.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Cuntpunch posted:

Yep, couldn't find my spare quicklink, so rode on the reused chain the 4km round trip to the nearest shop and back to just grab a new chain. Expensive lesson learnt. And have ordered the Blue Book, a quicklink tool, and chain stretch-checker from Park Tools for next time.
These are all great to have IMO. I also pack a portable QL tool on the bike.

Cuntpunch
Oct 3, 2003

A monkey in a long line of kings

mikemelbrooks posted:

Probably just that your cassette and chainring are a little worn.

Yeah, put another 30km on it today with a fair bit of high-gear riding in the back half - things felt a lot better today, so I'll chalk it up to a little bit of break-in. Took a more focused look at the cassette, though, and don't see any major wear, so that's something to put aside concerns about for maybe 6-12 months at this rate. Thanks for the insight, it makes a lot of sense.

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro




Installed a new chain and cassette over the last two days, feeling quite accomplished and also really tired. Happy to learn another set of skills though.
Of course, I started by just changing the chain, but immediately realized upon riding that the cassette needs changing too (a bunch of gears kept "slipping" or whatever you'd call it)

I hosed up so many times during the process:
With the chain - threaded it the wrong way around some guard in the rear and then couldn't get it back off again - SRAM Powerlink didn't budge for me... so I actually ended up unscrewing some bit on one of the pulleys and just moving the chain around from there.
With the cassette - couldn't get the old cassette unlocked for the life of me so I did eventually take it into a shop for a quick helping hand (the mechanic used his leg to give the wrench a strong kick, good tip!)
And then went through the lengthy - but already familiar! - process of adjusting the rear and front derailleurs.

All's well that ends well though!

Pretty sure the road I'm on leads me to buy one of those Park Tool repair stands and a bunch more tools... bring it on.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Rip fat bike bottom bracket. At least I found an easy way to get that horrifically tight Dub crank bolt to let go; put the bike upside down with the left pedal pressed up against the stringer of my basement stairs. Breaker bar and POP.

Took the bike to work once I discovered the bearings were indeed toast to pop a new BB in and at the same time decided to replace the boot and self extractor ring because I've heard they're machined slightly differently so you don't need to go to these extremes to bet the crank out.

Welp the extractor ring is stuck so I'm back to riding my 29er for the day while the crank soaks in the dunk tank overnight.

Let's see if it comes off in the morning.

Yay bikes :confuoot:

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006



What's the best chemical to use for chain cleaning? I was using the park tool stuff before because it came with the chain cleaning tool I use, but it's definitely a rip off.

Loving Africa Chaps
Dec 3, 2007


We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night, I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.

Partial Octopus posted:

What's the best chemical to use for chain cleaning? I was using the park tool stuff before because it came with the chain cleaning tool I use, but it's definitely a rip off.

White spirit, might melt the chain cleaning tool though.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




If you're using a chain cleaner probably the cheapest stuff you can find in a large bottle

The scrubbers will do most of the hard work

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Partial Octopus posted:

What's the best chemical to use for chain cleaning? I was using the park tool stuff before because it came with the chain cleaning tool I use, but it's definitely a rip off.

Buy a gallon of citrus degreaser from the home improvement store. Dilute it to at least 5:1 water:degreaser, maybe even 8:1. This should last you a very long time.

Another good option is Simple Green Extreme (Aircraft & Precision Parts.) It's harder to find locally, but you can probably order it at a place like Home Depot for store pickup.

Do not use regular Simple Green.

These options are way less awful than petroleum based solvents.

BeastPussy
Jul 15, 2003

im so mumped up lmao
I like the Pedros Oranj Peelz citrus degreaser but there are probably cheaper options out there.

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug
My crankbros pedals say to put a few drops of light lubricant onto the engagement mechanism once a month. What is a light lubricant? I have some sewing machine oil is that good?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Dren posted:

My crankbros pedals say to put a few drops of light lubricant onto the engagement mechanism once a month. What is a light lubricant? I have some sewing machine oil is that good?

Dry chain lube.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

Cuntpunch posted:

Replaced chain - went for a 20km round-trip ride, with a stop for vaccination in the middle - noticed that when at cadence - primarily in the highest gear, there was a certain specific *feel* that went along with pedaling. No noise, and it definitely wasn't a "hey, chain is gunked up" feel - I'd almost want to call it a "micro-vibration" or possibly just a very acute feeling of the chain interfacing with the teeth?

by highest gear you mean smallest cog?

that tends to happen on the extremes of the cassette but is probably more noticeable in the smallest cog. It's just chainline...since the chain has to move over to a point further away from the center line of the chainring, it makes the disengaging and engaging of teeth less smooth than if you were running the chain in the middle of the cassette and the chainline straight. Basically the chain has to run at a slant from the chainring in order to reach the largest or smallest cogs and that slant puts more friction on it engaging/disengaging the teeth

It's normal

Longbike
Sep 7, 2011
I've chanced into a delightful n+1 bike- a 1981(I think) Mercian that some friends found beside the dumpster at their apartment. Seems like something happened to the front wheel and the owner decided it wasn't worth keeping.



The drivetrain was grotty and quite worn, but the frame is in surprisingly good shape for being so neglected.
I cleaned it up and put a spare set of wheels on for the time being just so I can bumble around on it and see how it rides.
I'd like to keep it, but I don't think that Ms Longbike will stand for another project machine in our apartment living room. Shame, really, because I quite like this bike and it seems like a good target for restoration.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Can't citrus degreaser damage the paint?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

FogHelmut posted:

Can't citrus degreaser damage the paint?

No, especially not through a clear coat. Just about all bike oriented degreasers are orange oil (d-limonene) based.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I was wondering, there are many citrus based paint strippers.

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug
I’m installing my fenders. I probably don’t have the recommended 5mm clearance between the front fender and the tire. What is the bad stuff that can happen if there is insufficient clearance?

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
In theory if something big enough sticks to the tire it could jam at the fork crown and lock up your front wheel. If you ride in very heavy rain you might get some drag.
Completely depends on what surfaces and weather you're riding through. 5mm could be perfectly fine on good dry road.
Mainly small clearance makes them quite fussy to keep aligned over time.

kemikalkadet
Sep 16, 2012

:woof:
Recommended is 10mm gap but you can get away with running a little tighter than that. I'm not sure going tighter than 5mm would be a good time. On my commuter I run 45mm guards with 38mm slick gravelkings and it's mostly fine. Over time I get a build up of mud/dirt on the underside of the mudguard and it can build up to the point that it rubs a bit. The other consideration is side spray, if you're running really tight on clearance then you'll get water ejected from the sides all the way round rather than being channeled out of the front or back. I'm right on the limit for this, most of the time it's fine but if I'm riding through a lot of standing water I'll get a bit of side spray.

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug
Installing these fenders is turning into a bad time. The included hardware is to go through the seatstay but my seatstay has an eyelet that takes only a much smaller bolt than the hardware provided and does not let it pass all the way through. Can I cut the bolt with something to get it to be the right size? I have absolutely poo poo luck at ordering bolts to fit things, I have no fuckin clue how to size them and order them.

ugh i am probably gonna have to go to the hardware store, i hate buying hardware pieces it sucks rear end

Dren fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Aug 15, 2021

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Just go get a shorter bolt. It is most likely M5x0.8mm

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Dren posted:

ugh i am probably gonna have to go to the hardware store, i hate buying hardware pieces it sucks rear end

If you can't find one locally, ebay has M5 and all other metric sizes in any length you want for a few bucks. Or brake rotor bolts might work for you, I think they're M5 x 12mm (though probably T25 not hex).

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug
It was M5 x 0.8

When I measured the diameter of the bolt it was 4.5mm which messed me up. I originally bought M4 bolts, turns out those are 3.5mm diameter.

I was able to get the bolts I needed at the hardware store and install the fenders.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Dren posted:

. I originally bought M4 bolts, turns out those are 3.5mm diameter.

How are you measuring? M4 should be 4mm across the threads. There is an M3.5, but I've never seen one.

Dren
Jan 5, 2001

Pillbug

kimbo305 posted:

How are you measuring? M4 should be 4mm across the threads. There is an M3.5, but I've never seen one.

Across the threads. I’ll double check it.

Dren fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Aug 16, 2021

jammyozzy
Dec 7, 2006

Is that a challenge?

Dren posted:

Across the threads. I’ll double check it.



Basically every accessory fastener on a bicycle is M5. That one is undersize, but given how soft the head looks it's probably just badly made.

The other way to check is measure 10 threads (easier to see than 1 thread) along the bolt, it should come out to 8mm.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Dren posted:

Across the threads. I’ll double check it.



Cheap digital verniers are crap.

kimbo305 posted:

How are you measuring? M4 should be 4mm across the threads. There is an M3.5, but I've never seen one.

M3.5 screws are used in the UK for plug sockets and light switches, and for VW split screen window frames. Ask me how I know, Probably the easiest way to test if it is m5 is to try it in the frame where the water bottle screw in.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008
Bicycle-tangent maintenance question:

I bought a CycleOps Fluid 2 trainer on Craigslist a couple years ago, and it's leaking now. Should I even bother contacting Saris support about it or toss it?

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
IIRC they won't warranty unless you're the original owner. Could always shoot them an email and worst case you can get new drive units.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass
So I bought a Power2max NG PowerMeter second hand on eBay. Charged it up installed app and registered it. On my first ride the battery level reported on my Wahoo Elemnt was at 60% this is just after 40 miles. A couple of days later not having charged the app is showing full charge. Both firmware are up to date. Any ideas?

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

mikemelbrooks posted:

Cheap digital verniers are crap.

M3.5 screws are used in the UK for plug sockets and light switches, and for VW split screen window frames. Ask me how I know, Probably the easiest way to test if it is m5 is to try it in the frame where the water bottle screw in.

I always wondered what the hell that exists for. I actually hid the 3.5mm hex wrench from my bondhus set because I kept grabbing it instead of the 4mm

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