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SpartanIvy posted:It has to be some combination of improper ventilation causing high humidity in your crawl space and low insulating value of the vent insulation allowing the exterior to be cool enough for condensate to form. I guess I could take that leak detector my home insurance company wants me to use and put it down there to see what the relative humidity stays at, since that's where the water heater is anyway? See how much that device reacts to it to see if what is going on there is "normal" or not? I can't speak to how the conditions are in there over time yet since I literally just moved in last week, but I'll keep checking down there and see how things go in between work and other stuff. The earliest anybody can come out to inspect the crawlspace for actual damage/mold conditions is the 14th anyway so it's not like I'm going to be making any fast decisions anyway. EDIT: I didn't go all the way into the crawlspace last time I was down there to see how the wood looks at the tight end of the space, but what I could see of the wood underneath the floors of the house looked like regular old wood to me. No obvious discolorations/"wet looking" wood or mold/etc. growths yet. But I'll keep looking. If there's still enough light when I get home after work I'll snap some pics and post them. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Aug 3, 2021 |
# ? Aug 3, 2021 20:26 |
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# ? May 20, 2024 05:39 |
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If you want a bunch of armchair internet opinions pull out your title report from when you bought the house and post the exact language of your easement here, redacting anything which could ID it (road names, numbers, you get the idea.)
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# ? Aug 3, 2021 20:32 |
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devicenull posted:AFAIK some flippers do this (create a business with the address as it's name, use that for buying he house, paying contractors, etc). It'll probably show up on the deed if you go back to that period.
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# ? Aug 3, 2021 21:09 |
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So I've learned why my yard appears to be deteriorating so rapidly in appearance since I bought it. Per a neighbor, previous owner was a lawn care professional at a golf club, and had spent the last 2 years getting the yard into tip top shape. I look forward to my field of mud and moss.
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# ? Aug 3, 2021 21:44 |
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Immediately loving up your lawn is a first-time lawn-owner rite of passage! They are finicky bastards
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# ? Aug 3, 2021 21:49 |
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Bring on the mud and moss, we've mowed half as many times this year as last Was a little concerned about being "that house" but then 2 doors down let theirs get 2 feet tall last month, so not even the most likely to get scolded
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# ? Aug 3, 2021 22:24 |
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X-posting from wiring thread here, looking for a sanity check before drilling through things that I should not be... (was this the quick questions thread? I swear there was another thread for this, but I just can't find it.
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# ? Aug 3, 2021 22:34 |
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This hole is where the pneumatic door closer was screwed into. The wood came out with the screws on its own. Though it looks like separate pieces, it’s one solid piece all the way up to the top of the door frame. The wood to the left behind the gasket is a separate piece. What’s the best way to fix this? My main goals are to fill said hole and get the door closer back on there while making it not look like poo poo. Although I am willing to make it look not great if cost/difficultly are a prohibiting factor.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 01:31 |
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:This hole is where the pneumatic door closer was screwed into. The wood came out with the screws on its own. Congrats, your door is hosed. You really aren't going to be able to just fill that hole and reattach the closer... the best option I see would be to cut out all the wood on that inner frame from the top of your picture down. Then, replace that all with a 2x4 or whatever fits, sand, prime, paint, and then reattach. There should be another 2x4 behind that wood that's the actual structural part of the door frame that you can attach to. Alternatively you can take the approach the previous owner of my house took... find a piece of metal that fits the opening, screw all the way through your destroyed frame, and then mount the opener to that.\ You've definitely got a water leak somewhere though - does the storm door not have a solid glass insert?
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 02:20 |
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Depending on how the frame around that door was constructed, I think if you take the moulding and threshold off you can take all of that out and replace it with a new door frame, shim it in, secure it and then paint it/put moulding and doors back in. Pretty sure the Home Depot/Lowes (or equivalent) even have prefab frames for sale for interior and exterior doors in most standard sizes if you don't have woodworking tools/don't want to dig through straps of lumber for straight pieces.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 02:22 |
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:What’s the best way to fix this? My main goals are to fill said hole and get the door closer back on there while making it not look like poo poo. Although I am willing to make it look not great if cost/difficultly are a prohibiting factor. You can buy pieces of door casing at lumber yards and home centers. Make sure you get the style that includes the slot for the weatherstripping to slot into. I have repaired these before using PT, a table saw, and a oscillating tool but there was less damage that what I see in the photo, maybe a foot or so total. Good luck. This isn't a fun repair no matter which way you attempt it.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 02:58 |
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devicenull posted:Congrats, your door is hosed. poo poo. What leads you to believe that there’s a water leak? Cant say I’ve seen any water inside of the door whenever it rains. Storm door is two glass panes set in, with the top one able to slide down to reveal a screen. When you say cut the wood piece out, do you mean the whole piece of wood top to bottom, or like just above the door latch there.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 03:03 |
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How much should a replacement flowcenter in a geothermal system cost? This geothermal company is asking 7 large to: • Disconnect and remove existing defective component • Install new flow center • Install new fittings to accommodate flow center • Install new copper pipe & fittings & re-pipe water make up line • Restart unit and check operation • Labor during normal working hours This seems steep, as these units only cost a grand.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 04:31 |
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Head Bee Guy posted:How much should a replacement flowcenter in a geothermal system cost? This geothermal company is asking 7 large to: Idk but def get a few quotes for that amount of money
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 04:35 |
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CarForumPoster posted:Idk but def get a few quotes for that amount of money yeah I'd recommend this, I'm hoping it comes with the equipment for that cost.. otherwise that seems high, around my area 7 grand is like 70hours of labor, unless it's a lot of pipe and fittings or includes the flowcenter that seems like a "we don't wanna do it but will if you pay us enough" price.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 13:27 |
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Owning a geo system is like bringing your Mercedes to the shop: the mechanic knows you have money, so even simple tasks get the 'FU rich rear end in a top hat' tax. In fairness, in most areas these systems are rare, so contractors that are actually familiar with them take advantage of supply/demand to charge more.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 14:14 |
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A while ago I posted in this thread about the previous owner of my house not paying their HOA dues last year. Theoretically this should have been resolved in closing but I've found out that the closing attorney reached out to the HOA, got the amounts due and then...never did anything with them. We did pay a prorated amount from our closing date through the end of the year. While I've been getting this worked out, my HOA applied the 2021 dues that I paid to last year's and they're now saying that I owe for 2021 plus the initiation fee from last year when we purchased. What's my recourse with the closing attorney here? It's pretty obvious they've screwed this up but the post-closing person has been giving me the run around. Should I just get my own attorney to deal with this?
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 20:51 |
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What do your closing documents say? My HOA tried to say I had to pay some stuff that was already paid at closing. Thankfully it just took a single email to clear that up, but I was pulling out my docs to show that payment.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 21:04 |
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TheWevel posted:A while ago I posted in this thread about the previous owner of my house not paying their HOA dues last year. Theoretically this should have been resolved in closing but I've found out that the closing attorney reached out to the HOA, got the amounts due and then...never did anything with them. We did pay a prorated amount from our closing date through the end of the year. While I've been getting this worked out, my HOA applied the 2021 dues that I paid to last year's and they're now saying that I owe for 2021 plus the initiation fee from last year when we purchased. Legal question thread is over here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3266659 So I'm not clear: did you PAY the pro-rated dues at closing? Is it lined out in your closing docs? Or did your attorney just not add that amount to the closing costs? HOA dues are typically paid in advance, so you should have functionally been reimbursing the seller for the dues that they had already paid but won't be using. I can see if you closed +/- a few weeks of when they were due that there might be some confusion, but otherwise this is odd that they wouldn't have been paid at all.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 21:08 |
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DaveSauce posted:Legal question thread is over here: Yes, I paid the prorated dues however the amounts due to the HOA were not part of the closing (I'll have to double check my paperwork) and the closing attorney never even mailed a check for the prorated dues that I did pay.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 21:15 |
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TheWevel posted:Yes, I paid the prorated dues however the amounts due to the HOA were not part of the closing (I'll have to double check my paperwork) and the closing attorney never even mailed a check for the prorated dues that I did pay. Just looked up your old post about this, I think the PO pulled a fast one on you. They were supposed to have paid their dues on time. Looks like they just skipped it because, "well we're selling so why bother?" Your closing attorney should 1) cough up the money (did you pay the attorney or what...?) and 2) help you go after PO for the remainder of the dues + late fees. And also IMO 3) profusely apologize for not doing their due diligence in making sure this was all taken care of prior to closing.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 21:31 |
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DaveSauce posted:Just looked up your old post about this, I think the PO pulled a fast one on you. They were supposed to have paid their dues on time. Looks like they just skipped it because, "well we're selling so why bother?" 100% agreed. The seller scumbagged you, took your prorated money for things they hadn't paid for and your attorney didn't do their job right. This is on them. If the attorney gives you even the slightest bit of pushback start talking about a bar complaint. If they keep giving you pushback file the complaint and get another attorney to handle the rest.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 21:45 |
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Motronic posted:100% agreed. The seller scumbagged you, took your prorated money for things they hadn't paid for and your attorney didn't do their job right. This is on them. If the attorney gives you even the slightest bit of pushback start talking about a bar complaint. If they keep giving you pushback file the complaint and get another attorney to handle the rest. Oh yeah there's no doubt that happened but the whole point of using a closing attorney is that that money is supposed to go into escrow so all the parties get their money. I talked to my real estate agent and over the past year they fired this particular closing group so I guess I'm not the only closing they bungled. Thanks for reinforcing that I'm not crazy at least.
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# ? Aug 4, 2021 22:01 |
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Is it normal for a hot water heater pressure relief valve to do this or does it probably need to be replaced? It's definitely not a constant stream (I can see that parts of the water trail have dried). The tank is only 4 years old so I doubt the whole thing is failing, but I'm not sure if I should call someone or if this is a normal thing I just happened to notice today.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 00:49 |
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TheWevel posted:Oh yeah there's no doubt that happened but the whole point of using a closing attorney is that that money is supposed to go into escrow so all the parties get their money. I talked to my real estate agent and over the past year they fired this particular closing group so I guess I'm not the only closing they bungled. Thanks for reinforcing that I'm not crazy at least. Yeah IIRC the closing attorney is (or at least can be) the escrow agent for all closing funds. If they took the money and didn't pay out to the right people, that's a pretty huge "oh poo poo" on their part. That said, sounds like the closing attorney may have paid the PO? Which is where that money SHOULD have gone, frankly, but I would expect that part of the attorney's job was to make sure that the account was current. I mean, as long as the HOA provided the attorney with correct information, which is never a guarantee... There also may be something on the seller's disclosure as well to state that the don't owe anything to the HOA. Usually there's wiggle room for a person to say, "oh we didn't know that the roof was leaking" and lie on the disclosure, and you have to prove it. But something like not paying annual dues is nearly impossible to deny knowledge of. Maybe check your title insurance as well? They may cover this. Big problem for the PO if the title company made them sign an affidavit that they were current on HOA dues...
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:04 |
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Prv needs a replacement.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:05 |
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tater_salad posted:Prv needs a replacement. Okay cool. I was planning on calling a plumber tomorrow. Just wanted to make sure this wasn't a "YOU NEED TO CALL IMMEDIATELY" type deal. Thanks!
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:08 |
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TheWevel posted:Oh yeah there's no doubt that happened but the whole point of using a closing attorney is that that money is supposed to go into escrow so all the parties get their money. I talked to my real estate agent and over the past year they fired this particular closing group so I guess I'm not the only closing they bungled. Thanks for reinforcing that I'm not crazy at least. IANAL but drat this seems like what malpractice insurance is for
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:14 |
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m0therfux0r posted:Okay cool. I was planning on calling a plumber tomorrow. Just wanted to make sure this wasn't a "YOU NEED TO CALL IMMEDIATELY" type deal. Thanks! Yeah it won't asplode but it shouldn't leak like that. If you have basic tools (a pipe wrench) it's not difficult to do on your own
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:34 |
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m0therfux0r posted:Okay cool. I was planning on calling a plumber tomorrow. Just wanted to make sure this wasn't a "YOU NEED TO CALL IMMEDIATELY" type deal. Thanks! I mean......chances are good it will just piddle for a while, but I'm not sure how happy I'd be about leaving the heater on if it completely venting would cause damage based on where it draining to. If that is just nothing on the floor to get damaged and a floor drain then whatever. If a few tens of gallons of water will cause an issue that's some different calculus.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:39 |
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Put a bucket under it until the plumber comes?
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 01:59 |
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Epitope posted:Put a bucket under it until the plumber comes? When those let loose they are open to your incoming water. So if you're not around a bucket isn't going to do poo poo if it fails completely. Shutting off the water coming to the heater is the way to deal with that.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 02:01 |
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Epitope posted:Put a bucket under it until the plumber comes? 40 gallon bucket?
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 02:09 |
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I'm of the mind of.. you'll probably be okay. Could you have catastrophe yes... Will you likely not. I'd you wanna be completely safe shut the heater down and turn the cold water inlet off.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 02:12 |
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tater_salad posted:I'm of the mind of.. you'll probably be okay. Could you have catastrophe yes... Will you likely not. I'd you wanna be completely safe shut the heater down and turn the cold water inlet off. Same. I didn't mean to be all gloom and doom. Just pointing out what could happen, and without knowing what a bunch of water could do in that space it may matter more or less.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 02:19 |
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Got home late and was running out of light (so no good pics), but here is what the leak detector has to say since I set it up this evening. It hasn't rained within the last 24 hours, but it has been pretty drat humid. Wonder how accurate the sensor actually is... EDIT: Updated for this morning here: That can't be good, right? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Aug 5, 2021 |
# ? Aug 5, 2021 02:34 |
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biracial bear for uncut posted:That can't be good, right? Is that your basement? 75%+ RH is too high, that is pretty much perfect mold growing humidity/temp. It's also humid enough that temperature swings will likely result in condensation, which can cause rust as well. I'm not made of electricity, so I generally try to keep my basement in the 55-60% humidity max range. Lower than that requires near-constant dehum runtime, and that's typically low enough to avoid getting that basement stank.
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# ? Aug 5, 2021 13:45 |
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B-Nasty posted:Is that your basement? 75%+ RH is too high, that is pretty much perfect mold growing humidity/temp. It's also humid enough that temperature swings will likely result in condensation, which can cause rust as well. Yeah, the crawlspace I posted about on the previous page. Evenings are super loving humid right now though and it looks like all that fog/moisture in the air just flows right into the crawlspace while the air blows said fog/mist around, then it sits until the heat of the day and the air movement during the day stirs it around (it was briefly at about 46% while I was under the house putting the detector in place after getting it connected to the home's wifi, but as evening came on it skyrocketed). EDIT: I'm thinking about getting a few of these and putting them on one side of the crawlspace to try and force airflow through underneath the home (figuring on one side because as air is pushed out thru the screens on one side, it'll pull fresh air from the other side's vents and on out through the crawlspace), just need to run power to them somehow. https://www.homedepot.com/p/18-in-x-9-in-Silver-Galvanized-Steel-Crawl-Space-Fan-Vent-V2D/302202048 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Aug 5, 2021 |
# ? Aug 5, 2021 13:53 |
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Motronic posted:Same. I didn't mean to be all gloom and doom. Just pointing out what could happen, and without knowing what a bunch of water could do in that space it may matter more or less. I'm calling the plumber today and nothing happened overnight- regardless, that water trail in the picture leads directly to the basement drain, so I'm not super worried about flooding unless the whole tank blows open, which seems... unlikely. Update: Plumbers came. Water coming into my house was 117 psi- so the PRV was functioning correctly. They just turned down the regulator and tested it again and now it's at 70 psi. Dumb fix, but now my mind is at peace. m0therfux0r fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Aug 5, 2021 |
# ? Aug 5, 2021 14:10 |
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# ? May 20, 2024 05:39 |
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Laminate floor question: Our finished attic is just a subfloor right now. It’s not bad by any means but also not PERFECTLY even, some of the boards are off by about 1/16” at spots. How much of a hassle would it be to lay down snap-together laminate floor on top of a thin foam sheet layer? Do we have to meticulously go through and level out every board or is laminate pretty forgiving? Attic pic:
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# ? Aug 6, 2021 21:12 |