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Chillbro Baggins posted:
It's interesting what you took away from my comment. I meant strictly in the pre-sale portion, the "should I even bother" first line communication thing. spankmeister posted:Lmfao loving Americans thinking they be Wyatt Earp or some poo poo. This. If you think it's totally cool to walk around armed because actually resorting to lethal violence is more important than getting robbed then your priorities differ a whole hell of a lot from mine. If I was that skeeved going to buy a car I wouldn't be buying the car.
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Aug 2, 2021 09:54
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Yes for christ's sake don't arm yourself when checking out things on craigslist, all you're doing is substantially increasing the odds someone (including yourself) gets murdered.
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Aug 2, 2021 09:57
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Sagebrush posted:You want the lights to go on the moment the pedal is pressed, but the pedal keeps going down quite a bit further from there. If you had the switch underneath the pedal, it would have to be some weird long-travel thing that actuates right at the beginning of its stroke but can be pushed in another inch or two while remaining connected. The switch would probably wear out faster because it's constantly moving in and out as you vary the brakes. Ford has entered the chat. Trucks, Crown Vics, older Explorers, and who knows what other models put the switch between the master cylinder push rod and the pedal (the switch clips to the pedal itself - also the switch is what actually pushes the pushrod, not the pedal). When the switch wears out, the lights flicker a bit when you first hit the brakes, and don't really come on unless you really get on them or put some extra pressure on the pedal to keep the vehicle stopped. I've come so drat close to rearending high mile Fords because of this, and I've almost been rear ended a few times in my 'Vic now. Had someone tell me my brake lights don't work; had GF follow me and, yup, they ain't workin the way they should. They flash on for a second when I first tap the brakes, then don't come on until I'm at a stop or I lay into the brakes. Here's something showing how the switch attaches randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Aug 2, 2021 |
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Aug 2, 2021 11:30
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You should probably get that fixed
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Aug 2, 2021 14:28
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DildenAnders posted:Yes for christ's sake don't arm yourself when checking out things on craigslist, all you're doing is substantially increasing the odds someone (including yourself) gets murdered. Yeah my feeling has always been that if I show up and the other party demands all my cash, I'll give it to them, and them immediately go to the police, since if I'm at the point of meeting someone I already have their name, phone number, and address. If they shoot me anyways I was probably hosed from the moment I stepped out of my truck, and being armed myself wouldn't have changed anything.
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Aug 2, 2021 22:35
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bird with big dick posted:You should probably get that fixed New switch should be here tomorrow. Mine's not NEARLY as bad as a ton of other Fords I see on the road, but still very much a concern.
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Aug 3, 2021 07:03
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Anyone ever successfuly undent an oil pan? I've got one that's probably best described as "caved in" and I'd feel a lot better if it weren't. With as bad as it is, I'm a bit afraid trying to straighten it out will do more harm than good though. 
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Aug 5, 2021 00:10
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Those are not just dents, but hard creases. If you straighten that out you're likely going to need to also add some weld to it to keep it from leaking. Do-able, but that depends on what you've got to work with.
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Aug 5, 2021 00:29
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Alternatively, how expensive is a replacement pan? My TJ's pan wasn't even that bad but replacements were dirt cheap.
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Aug 5, 2021 00:36
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Also, lol....is that a 0U rack PDU on your bench as a power strip? Brilliant. I need to steal that idea.
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Aug 5, 2021 00:41
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I need to search more, but I'm seeing nothing for in-stock replacements. Pretty sure I'd need to find something second hand and dug out of the back corner of a garage. Truck is a 1974 Scout II with a V8 for reference. Motronic posted:Also, lol....is that a 0U rack PDU on your bench as a power strip? Brilliant. I need to steal that idea. Yep, it is giant and gives me useless info like how many amps my air compressor pulls. It rules.
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Aug 5, 2021 00:49
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WTFBEES posted:Anyone ever successfuly undent an oil pan? I've got one that's probably best described as "caved in" and I'd feel a lot better if it weren't. With as bad as it is, I'm a bit afraid trying to straighten it out will do more harm than good though. What are you worried about exactly? The capacity loss is minimal and it looks like it's way far away from the spinny bits of the engine so I wouldn't worry too much about it?
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Aug 5, 2021 07:37
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WTFBEES posted:I need to search more, but I'm seeing nothing for in-stock replacements. Pretty sure I'd need to find something second hand and dug out of the back corner of a garage. These both look just like yours, or are you going oem only? e: oops! Cage fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Aug 5, 2021 14:01
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Cage, you've got the wrong motor. Neither of those have a chance of fitting. WTFBEES posted:Anyone ever successfuly undent an oil pan? I've got one that's probably best described as "caved in" and I'd feel a lot better if it weren't. With as bad as it is, I'm a bit afraid trying to straighten it out will do more harm than good though. Hammer it out. Or buy a NOS one I guess for $325. Or cruise ebay, looks like there's a couple under one hundred dollars. But if you've got none hundred dollars, hammer. It'll be fine, it should be made of thick soft steel that bends back without cracking. I would want that capacity back too, I run an extra quart in mine on 15-w40 to keep it quiet. Ive had some ticking before and somehow it always loses a little oil. Could be just be from the puff of smoke when I start and the worn valve guides and also the leaks everywhere.
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Aug 5, 2021 14:42
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 I have a 2013 Audi A4, TFSI 4-popper engine. She has about 94k miles now. Maybe a bit hard to see what the picture is of... top is towards the right. Currently I'm losing about ~1 quart of oil every 1k miles. The dealer following the full oil consumption 'analysis' has unfortunately insisted this is normal expected consumption. It's not a huge deal to me, I'm ok popping a quart in every few fill-ups, but I'm curious what's going on. Most of it is probably poor piston ring design from this era, but is that an additional leak I'm seeing? Or think that's just road dirt? I know I could clean it up then see if it re-occurs, I haven't tried that yet, wanted to see if others knew just from looking at it. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Aug 5, 2021 15:25
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That's a decent bit of seepage but to my eye that doesn't look anywhere near enough (or wet enough) to be a significant contributor to a quart per thousand mile consumption.
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Aug 5, 2021 15:40
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Inner Light posted:
a quick search said 500ml per 1000km so after converting that's a bit high but not far off expected the dirty bits look like normal deposition to me and not like it's coming out hard anywhere- I am not a mechanic but I have seen an oil leak or seven on my audi before and that don't look obvious to me
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Aug 5, 2021 15:43
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spankmeister posted:What are you worried about exactly? The capacity loss is minimal and it looks like it's way far away from the spinny bits of the engine so I wouldn't worry too much about it? The capacity loss is one thing but it's not far from the pickup which keeps weighing on my mind. Plus it's clearly visible when it's bolted to the truck which looks pretty dirtbag. StormDrain posted:Cage, you've got the wrong motor. Neither of those have a chance of fitting. Hammer it is!
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Aug 5, 2021 16:20
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Hiya AI, been a while. My Crown Vic was parked all through last year, and at some point in there, my center mirror fell off the windshield, base and all. There's a big ol block of adhesive still stuck to the glass. Good old Florida heat, eh? So: 1. What's the best way to get the old glue off? It feels hard, I'm assuming it's some kind of epoxy. 2. What's the best way to reattach the mirror?
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Aug 5, 2021 21:01
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Fender Anarchist posted:Hiya AI, been a while. My Crown Vic was parked all through last year, and at some point in there, my center mirror fell off the windshield, base and all. There's a big ol block of adhesive still stuck to the glass. Good old Florida heat, eh? if you can, remove the old stuff with a razor blade. There is a permatex mirror glue kits that come with a primer and activator and everything because you're gluing 2 really smooth surfaces together. they're like 5 bucks at an auto parts store. Just make sure everything is really clean, and you only get 1 shot at it. Powershift fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Aug 5, 2021 21:10
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The mirror adhesive is legit too. We had the mirror fall off in our New Yorker when I was a kid and I got the job of gluing it. It came off again, taking a chunk of glass with it. I'm still impressed with that failure.
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Aug 5, 2021 21:18
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I didn't have good luck with the little kits, despite the reviews, so I paid an auto glass place to do it. THEIR first gluing also popped off, and they extra-cleaned the windshield with some chemical or other and tried it again, after which it worked. At least it wasn't just me! 
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Aug 5, 2021 21:25
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cursedshitbox posted:Sorry, been away for a couple days. That would look like proportioning valve for the rear however its not an adjustable one. The hex nut just holds the biasing valve together inside. Hey thank you for the info! It has new brake fluid, but not sure about the springs or the adjustment or liners so will take a look Sunday. Appreciate the help!
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Aug 5, 2021 21:34
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Rear view mirror goon, make sure you glue the base on the right way. I know someone who glued theirs on upside down. Don't be like them.
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Aug 5, 2021 23:17
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StormDrain posted:The mirror adhesive is legit too. We had the mirror fall off in our New Yorker when I was a kid and I got the job of gluing it. It came off again, taking a chunk of glass with it. I'm still impressed with that failure. This happened with my GTI too and then the windshield cracked. Thank jebus for no cost glass replacement with my insurance.
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Aug 6, 2021 05:23
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The previous owner of my house I guess had a boat, I've been cleaning out a shed and found several marine style fuel tanks and 6 plastic Jerry cans with various amounts of hydrocarbons of an unknown age and composition in them. What's the best way to get rid of that poo poo?
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Aug 7, 2021 04:45
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Fire.
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Aug 7, 2021 04:45
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tactlessbastard posted:The previous owner of my house I guess had a boat, I've been cleaning out a shed and found several marine style fuel tanks and 6 plastic Jerry cans with various amounts of hydrocarbons of an unknown age and composition in them. What's the best way to get rid of that poo poo? Your muni or county should have a hazardous material collection periodically. That's usually the best bet. Other than fire. AmbassadorofSodomy is kinda correct here.
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Aug 7, 2021 04:54
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tactlessbastard posted:The previous owner of my house I guess had a boat, I've been cleaning out a shed and found several marine style fuel tanks and 6 plastic Jerry cans with various amounts of hydrocarbons of an unknown age and composition in them. What's the best way to get rid of that poo poo? check your local municipal website for chemical waste disposal info. There should be an office you can contact E: fb, didnt notice that
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Aug 7, 2021 04:55
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My dad has a degree in chemistry. Worked in foundries for several years before taking a job as an automotive engineer in stamping. I always thought he was a pretty bright dude. When he found a random jar of fluid in his shop, he threw it in our quarterly drum fire. Neighbors heard the boom a mile away from the explosion. I still give him poo poo about that.
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Aug 7, 2021 05:12
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pumped up for school posted:My dad has a degree in chemistry. Worked in foundries for several years before taking a job as an automotive engineer in stamping. I always thought he was a pretty bright dude. that Ramses Smuckles poo poo
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Aug 7, 2021 05:15
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"household hazardous waste" is the term they use on the west coast at least
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Aug 7, 2021 05:18
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Audi A4 TFSI oil consumption question. I mentioned before I'm losing maybe a little less than 1 quart every 1k miles. I'm a little OCD about checking the electronic monitor (no manual dip stick equipped from factory) and it drops pretty fast from max, sits just above min for a long time, and eventually the oil level (not pressure) light comes on. Is it a good idea to add proactively if around min, or is it perfectly safe to wait for the oil level light, which is probably programmed to around 1 quart too low? Totally separate issue, I've noticed more than one squeak probably coming from my recently changed brake assemblies. It's also more than 1 side, happens when I hit uneven pavement like a manhole cover. Audi forums suggest it's the 'brake caliper clip'. Hopefully the dealer that changed the brakes will honor some warranty instead of charging me 200 drat bucks to say 'cannot reproduce complaint', gonna find out soon. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Aug 7, 2021 |
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Aug 7, 2021 06:25
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For the effort/reward ratio I'd add proactively at or even before min.
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Aug 7, 2021 08:43
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1999,civic,1.6l+l4+sohc,1355611,body,bumper+cover,1344 I'm replacing the rear bumper cover for a 1999 Honda Civic, however most of the (affordable) options I'm finding are unpainted. What's my best option to have the bumper painted to match the rest of the car? Will an auto body be able to do it?
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Aug 7, 2021 20:48
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Cheapest would be finding someone who is willing to do it on the side for cash. Otherwise, an autobody place will do it for a couple hundred bucks.
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Aug 7, 2021 21:29
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Idle thought, is car insurance coverage going to keep up with the currently bananas used car market when it comes to repairing/replacing upon a loss during these unprecedented times?
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Aug 7, 2021 22:15
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tactlessbastard posted:Idle thought, is car insurance coverage going to keep up with the currently bananas used car market when it comes to repairing/replacing upon a loss during these unprecedented times? Of course. Insurance costs will rise to cover repair and replacement costs. They won't stay in business long if they don't.
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Aug 7, 2021 22:17
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My friend sent her spare prius key through the wash. Is there a way to get a cheap replacement? Dealer wanted like 300
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Aug 8, 2021 01:42
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Head Bee Guy posted:My friend sent her spare prius key through the wash. Is there a way to get a cheap replacement? Dealer wanted like 300 You can get key fobs on places like wish.com or aliexpress or banggood etc but you need to be really sure that the one you get matches the original and you will have to get the key programmed to the car by someone with the right equipment.
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Aug 8, 2021 01:50
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