|
I'm currently trying to ship a motorcycle cross country and this seemed like the place to ask. Is it just me or are a lot of these companies incredibly shady? Anyone have one they recommend?
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2021 17:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:44 |
|
|
I feel like a lot of overland freight companies are dudes with a big truck and a trailer and some spare time. Source: my friends dad did exactly this, he bought a truck, a trailer and hosed off from his job to haul things all over the country.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
i shipped vehicles twice via random flatbedders contracting through one of those shippers. it worked out okay. Just throwing out that that U-Pack allows motorcycles in their cube pod thingies, if that might end up being a better option. It's enclosed storage at least. I'm going to be using one of their pods for two bikes when i move this/next year. Just gotta drain fluids and strap em down well. Wasn't too expensive last I checked, on par with a truck ship at least.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2021 19:17
|
|
|
MagicBoots posted:I'm currently trying to ship a motorcycle cross country and this seemed like the place to ask. Is it just me or are a lot of these companies incredibly shady? Anyone have one they recommend? The dude that shipped my bike to Sturgis last year was just some guy with a big truck. I met him in a gas station parking lot, handed him nine $100 bills, and he wrote my name down in a small ledger notebook with a pencil. It was the weirdest loving experience. Giving someone $900 and then a $30k motorcycle had me nervous until the exact moment we walked up to the bikes, but once I got there I realized that's pretty common for dudes with trucks going cross country to include your bike (and whatever else they're hauling) as they go from points A to B. Unfortunately I have no recommendations, as again, this was just some dude with a truck, and unless you're very specifically going from Rhode Island to South Dakota in August/Florida in March he probably can't help.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2021 19:46
|
|
|
Anyone have suggestions for cleaning up my ceramic coated headers? They're looking dingy. I googled a bit, and most of my results were from muscle car forums saying to use regular metal polish, but I don't trust random car forums.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 18:30
|
|
|
My carbureted bike got rained on hard. I let it dry a little. Rode it, was riding really bad. Didn't seem to improve. Took off the air filter and saw some water in the carb. Sprayed it down with some fogging oil while running. Dumped the bowl. Fixed. Can that be avoided? People are saying that shouldn't happen with k&n style exposed filters...but...maybe the bike is super sensitive to it because it is 125cc
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 01:01
|
|
|
SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:My carbureted bike got rained on hard. That will absolutely happen with an exposed air filter, 'people' are on crack if they think otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 01:36
|
|
|
bike covers are $29 on amazon you philistine (seriously, keep covers on your rides. it makes so much difference)
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 01:39
|
|
|
Eh I couldn't help it. Was actually out with it. But maybe it's not a bad idea to get a air filter sock or something I can keep under the seat. It's normally kept in a garage.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 02:19
|
|
|
Also: CARBS ARE NOT SEALED DEVICES They have to be open to atmosphere by design, on factory built actual real bikes, all the vent holes etc are routed safely into the airbox which is designed in a way that water can't get in. On bitchmade chinese shitbikes it's just holes to open air. Running long vent pipes that go up and then down to the bottom of the bike like an upside down U is a reasonable solution to water getting in that way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 02:31
|
|
|
Facts. And on that note, does an airbox have to be designed specifically so it does not pull vacuum on the carb's atmospheric breather? Or is the air intake and carb breather typically routed to the same plenum? I have been kicking around modifying the bike's original airbox to not be poo poo, or mounting an aftermarket one on. In my mind it should be routed to a separate plenum. Maybe the crankcase breather can be shared. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 03:38
|
|
|
Usually the case breather goes to the airbox for emissions reasons + the airbox is a natural oil separator and they usually have a handy little see-through bulb you can pull off to drain it. Routing the bowl vents to the airbox is a very good idea and again fairly common on bikes with no EVAP system, as well as being mandatory on pressurized airbox setups. Depending on the design, often modifying the factory airbox gets you more than a pod straight on the carb.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 05:19
|
|
|
That reminds me, what is the proper way to vent a gas tank if the EVAP system has been removed? I removed the one on my Vespa a long time ago for more underseat storage space and just have the hose hanging down there to direct gas away if I overfill the tank.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 05:34
|
|
|
My 2c Airbox should be fine if you have one. If not, they make one way check breather valves, normally for dirt bikes but whatever. Leaving it open might let some more fuel evaporate.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 07:21
|
|
|
Tank overflow vents are often just vented to air since they can have a ton come through them depending on how much you overfill Pure evap vents tend to vent into a charcoal canister that vents to the airbox I believe but at that point you’re re-adding the evap system so you could probably route that into the airbox
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 13:08
|
|
|
Thanks, I guess I'll get one of those breather check valves, they seem like a dime a dozen on amazon. The original evap system went straight from charcoal cannister to the intake manifold, there's nowhere to connect an additional hose to the airbox unless I hack it up which I'd rather not.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 18:42
|
|
|
My carburetor has a vent tube that runs up and over the airbox and just terminates into nothing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 03:37
|
|
|
Mine has a vent and an overflow with no tubes attached so it can spill gas all over the hot engine and immolate itself and me
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 04:06
|
|
|
Anyone ever dealt with repainting/repairing a paint job on a nylon gas tank? I found another '03 tuono in the colors I like (red with bronze frame+swingarm) with only 6k miles so I went and picked it up but it wasn't as perfect as I thought it was from the ad. It rode fine, did all the things I'd expect it to, but it has gas tank damage:  The problem is that the decals/vinyls are hard/impossible to find so I was hoping it would be possible to just repair the tank even if there is some overspray/not color matched but I know nothing about painting so I dunno if that's possible.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 10:48
|
|
|
Shouldn't you be able to get new vinyl decals custom cut fairly cheaply? Just take a few measurements off the ones on the tank before they're completely gone to get the sizing right
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 11:26
|
|
|
Razzled posted:Anyone ever dealt with repainting/repairing a paint job on a nylon gas tank? I don't know how happy you'll be with the results but you can "blend" paint in so that you won't feel the transition but you'll see the change in color. Unless you're extremely lucky it won't match exactly. If you do this I don't think you can save that decal (it will get painted over) Sand it smooth with 220 grit, then 400. Tape off the area (an area slightly larger than the original damage) prime it. Remove tape and sand with 400 to remove tape edge lines. Tape off again, this time an even wider area. Spray with color paint, you want many coats to make it thick. Remove tape, carefully sand off tape lines and use increasing grit sandpaper starting from 400 and working up to 1500 and wetsand the paint to smoothness. You have to be extremely careful to not cut through your top coat and down to your primer, this is why you want that paint thick. Once done you'll have smoother-than-factory paint but if you shine a light over it you'll probably see the color transition. For decals anyone with the correct printer can print them if you provide a design.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 11:38
|
|
|
Wrap might be an option too if you're not offended by them. Might end up being a lot easier than paint.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 17:47
|
|
|
I was walking around downtown and saw a cool looking Royal Enfield and noticed its cooling fins have these rubber spacers in them. What are they for? Something about resonance and vibration? My CL350 has a couple of small rubber discs in places but I've never seen anything that extensive.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 16:56
|
|
|
My gut reaction is proto frame-"sliders" to keep things from immediately chipping or snapping a cooling fin if the bike is leaned against something but somehow I seriously doubt that is the case. e: The more I look at where the fins are in relation to everything else that sticks out of the bike the more stupid I feel for having said it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I was walking around downtown and saw a cool looking Royal Enfield and noticed its cooling fins have these rubber spacers in them. Yeah I think that's what those are for. At certain revs, the fins will start to ring and potentially cause metal fatigue and, I'd say increased NVM, but it's an Enfield.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 17:11
|
|
|
It’s to keep the fins quiet, as mentioned they hit their harmonic resonance and start singing. Then they snap off
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 17:59
|
|
|
and people make fun of austrian engineering
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 18:15
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:It’s to keep the fins quiet, as mentioned they hit their harmonic resonance and start singing. Its for this. Razzled posted:and people make fun of austrian engineering Yeah they were sensible enough to use liquid for cooling.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 19:29
|
|
|
Razzled posted:and people make fun of austrian engineering Every air cooled bike I've ever seen has those, except for Harleys because of the ickyness, presumably.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 19:59
|
|
|
Gorson posted:I don't know how happy you'll be with the results but you can "blend" paint in so that you won't feel the transition but you'll see the change in color. Unless you're extremely lucky it won't match exactly. If you do this I don't think you can save that decal (it will get painted over) Thank you for this, btw, I've got the paints I need to fix my Rex's tank but not the sandpaper or tapes
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 20:20
|
|
|
Razzled posted:and people make fun of austrian engineering Honestly, the rubber dampers are how you tell its a well engineered aircooled bike
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 21:21
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Every air cooled bike I've ever seen has those, except for Harleys because of the ickyness, presumably. Too high tech
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 21:38
|
|
|
Newbie question: When starting up my bike (CBR 250cc) when it hasn't been running for a few hours/days, the engine turns over, idles roughly for a few seconds, and then stalls and turns off. When I start it up again, it fires up right away and settles into a smooth idle, and there are no other noticeable issues. Is this a problem? How would I fix it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 02:07
|
|
|
If it’s still around on Monday, and at this price it may easily not be, there’s a 1991 TW200 for $1500 in town that I’m thinking about picking up. Not sure what to make of this though: “Starts and runs, but stutters when hot, as such I believe a valve adjustment is in its future.“ I’m going to look up what a valve adjustment on a TW200 would look like, but does that pass the sniff test with any of our more mechanically inclined nerds? Anything that would scream “stay away” based on what you read there? Other TW200s are going for easily twice this price so I’m ok to put a little work and money into it to have a dumb little grocery getter that I don’t mind trashing in parking lot practices. E: Youtube’d it and TW200 valve clearance check could not be simpler. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Aug 6, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 02:10
|
|
|
I’d go for jetting first. Stutters when hot means it’s too rich to start with and just gets worse when it’s hot. I’d suspect jetting first and then maybe a clogged air filter after that
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 02:55
|
|
|
I think at 1500 I’ll take the risk. Hopefully it’s still there on Monday. I guess if it’s really a disaster when I go look at it I can walk away 
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 03:05
|
|
|
T Zero posted:Newbie question: When starting up my bike (CBR 250cc) when it hasn't been running for a few hours/days, the engine turns over, idles roughly for a few seconds, and then stalls and turns off. When I start it up again, it fires up right away and settles into a smooth idle, and there are no other noticeable issues. This is happening because the engine's high idle system can't react fast enough, probably because it's tuned borderline lean at idle for *reasons*, it's a very common thing on lots of injected bikes especially if you have a pipe. The 'right' way is to find some way of modifying/remapping the EFI, not something anyone bothers with on learner bikes but you might get lucky. The realistic way is to just give it some throttle until it'll idle on it's own.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 03:11
|
|
|
Strife posted:The dude that shipped my bike to Sturgis last year was just some guy with a big truck. I met him in a gas station parking lot, handed him nine $100 bills. Ended up doing this, bike is suppose to arrive tomorrow so we'll see if I chose wisely.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 05:29
|
|
|
Can't remember if this has been covered before recently.. anyone have a light duty workshop compressor they'd recommend? With the option of an in-line gauge preferably.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 11:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:44 |
|
|
List your use case. I have been using this successfully for tyre inflation and air-drying the bike: Einhell 1.6Hp 24L Oil Free Compressor + 5Pc Airtool Kit 230V - £90 when I bought it at the beginning of last years lockdown, roflmao £130 now: https://www.toolstation.com/einhell-16hp-24l-oil-free-compressor-5pc-airtool-kit/p57053
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 11:24
|
|
