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I'm cooked. Between funerals, birthdays, coworkers departing, and bees - I'm just worn out. But in a good way. Now this weekend, I'm literally cooked. Oregon is going to see the first 115F temps. We managed to get the following done, but have had to stop about 12/1pm each day. I'm just not built/used to this.    
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Jun 26, 2021 21:47
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| # ? May 28, 2024 00:01 |
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Short adventure time: Several weeks (months?) back I messaged a goon on his for-sale post after realizing I wanted to push the Subaru off a cliff. Lots of nonsense between banks, out of state vehicle paperwork, blah blah blah happened. And then it was over. So, tired of building a dormer and cooking myself daily, I decided to fly to a nice cool place. Just kidding, it was California.      Not even that many bugs!  Home with it's now outdated ICE buddies.  1200 miles driven, 10 supercharger stops. Made it home safe and a rather uneventful trip spread over 2 days. My friend dropped his spare charger off, so I'll see about wiring it in next week.  Oh and the Subaru, I sold it to a friend needing a car for the cost of parts I had in to it. Figured it was only fitting since it was given to me. Next on EV adventures: OH GOD IT'S RAINING AND I'M SURROUNDED BY WATER the spyder fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 18:26
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Oh cool. Didn't even know it was a tesla you were getting.
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Jul 10, 2021 21:24
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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I never thought I would say this - but the pans I designed are done.   I'm not flipping them over because that's a whole other story. Just need to order o-ring stock, hardware, and boxes. Rob's pans are also done, including a new batch of cast FC pans!          the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jul 13, 2021 |
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Jul 13, 2021 00:53
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the spyder posted:I'm not flipping them over because that's a whole other story. Holy poo poo there's dongs on both sides?!?!
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Jul 13, 2021 03:28
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13B = two dongs 20B = three dongs 26B = fooooour dongs
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Jul 13, 2021 05:57
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It was a pleasure meeting you! I'm glad you made it home safely!
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Jul 13, 2021 20:09
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I maaaaay need to look into one of those for the 13B that's going in my SA22C. Should fit, I think. The indent for the one mount will be extraneous, but I'm seriously considering putting in an FC crossmember and front suspension.
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Jul 13, 2021 20:16
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Home maintenance post ahead: For decades we have fought a iron bacteria infection in our well. Every year we would bleach/shock it, only to have the infection return. This year I am finally trying out a product from NZ called Bore Saver Ultra-C. I found it 5 years ago researching, but have only now got the house empty for a week to attempt this treatment. It's based on 95% oxalic acid (what makes green plants like cucumbers and rhubarb bitter) and is NSF certified. I followed instructions provided for a simple pump cycle treatment and got feedback from our well drillers/supply house before performing this treatment. I would have preferred a brush/surge treatment, but that is out of scope for a home owner. Here's what our pipes and filter housings look like before starting.   I forgot to remove the filter on the left before starting treatment - it quickly clogged. The bag filter on the right is for our house. It's only 2 weeks old and already covered in iron slime.  Our well is 156ft deep with a 102ft water line. Leaving 54ft of water column. It has a 1hp Stainless Steel well submersible pump set at 140ft. The included instructions provide a chart for how much product to add to your well. In my case it was 30lb for a severe infection treatment.  The first step is to dump the measured amount of product down the 6" casement. I had to lift my well cap and support it accomplish this.  You then cycle the well back into itself for 8-12 hours. I chose the longer time. Green means it's working, converting the iron.  I ran each tap until it turned green and then let it sit for 8 hours.  Throughout the process I've measured the pH. We started at 7.2pH which is neutral and the basis for a good tasting tap water.  In the peak of treatment (12 hours) it dipped all the way down to 2.0pH, or the equivalent of lemon juice.  After several hours of flushing, we're back to 5.5pH and climbing. Reference: strong black coffee  I measured my neighbors to find his pH at 6.5, down from 7.1. I am thinking due to our close proximity and his well only being ~75ft deeper that some of the treatment has made its way to his system. He is aware and uses a water delivery service for his drinking water. I did notify all my neighbors within a close proximity before starting. No one wants to be responsible for poisoning the water. Nice clear water:  I forgot to do a 5gal bucket test before treatment - but it was never that bad. Less than a minute. Before I replaced all the piping it was easily minutes to fill a bucket. That's how nasty this stuff can build up. The test I just ran straight from the well head did it in 18 seconds, pump only (no pressure tank connected).  Tonight I will add bleach to disinfect the well and again run it until each tap smells of bleach. 24 hours later I will flush the well again. Overall this is a 3 day process without water, so hopefully it is worth the effort. ITT: Ask me about not showering for 3 days. Just kidding, thankfully a friend is letting me stay with him. the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jul 18, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 01:26
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Any updates on the experiment? Success? No new is good news?
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Jul 19, 2021 20:44
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The overall result is good news. I will need to do a second treatment in a few months. The bulk of the buildup in the pump, piping, and everything including toilet tanks is nearly removed. I actually showered using our water this morning. Here's the pH scale I've used for reference.  After the bleach/disinfectant we're back to a pH of 6.8 which is safe enough for me. Picture was 8 hours after the bleach treatment.  Here's the union from after the acid treatment. 98% of the scale/slime is gone. I bet it's cleaner now that the bleach went through and knock the remainder off.  I forgot a few screens in the sink faucets. It was nasty.  And finally I drained my hot water tank. I could not get it to flow clear. I finally ran a hose to the yard, connected and sprinkler, turned the power off, and watered the lawn for a few hours. It was running clear this morning when I showered.  So I'll button up the well today and clean up from that project. I really wish I could have this well surge/brushed with the acid in it, but I can't get a truck to the well head due to all the firewood from the ice storms this spring. Next year. Without that, I can't really get all of the infection out of the well with just a pump circulation treatment. A second treatment in 3 months will kill off most the colonies and I'll continue with a maintenance dose every year until it can be surge/brushed. My next well project is to cut the top 3ft of casing off and weld new on.... Years of bleach have caused the steel to just flake away like a rusty frame rail. But that can wait until the pumps out. We're almost 70% done with the office repairs/shed dormer addition. Another $1k trip to home depot...  But it's looking good! Roof is going on today, drywall tomorrow.  The bees are doing well. Tomorrow when it's cool in the early morning I will do an inspection.  
the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 20, 2021 21:55
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I always forget that you raise bees and it always makes me so happy to see that.
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Jul 21, 2021 04:13
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How many bees though? 13! 
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Jul 21, 2021 04:16
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mekilljoydammit posted:How many bees though? I think I just died a little inside.
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Jul 21, 2021 15:03
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My office now has a roof and drywall. Well most of it. I won't be able to mud/tape and paint until the building is leveled. Next week on homeowner disasters, I level a building.    Mid roof-ing the shed dormer, my neighbor had a pipe leak. I went over to see if I could help. Back story: He's remodeling an outbuilding that happens to house the well controls for the property. The contractor discovered some shady wiring to the pump (multiple spliced together wire gauges) and undersized well supply line. He wanted it replaced, so neighbor digs the trench. It turns out whoever put the PVC in used sprinkler grade (cheese grade like sch 10) and it crushed when he slipped in the trench the next morning. I'm amazed he did not damage it digging - the irony. This opened a huge can of worms. I repaired the leak with some spare parts I had on hand, but after consulting with the contractor, neither the plumbers or electricians had the time to replace this mess in the next month. This turned into me stupidly volunteering to design and install a new system with him. Neighbor also wanted more faucets and I talked him into a 120v GFCI outlet at the well head to replace his sun damaged extension cord for the chicken house. So, between meetings I designed a new electrical/plumbing layout. Several thousand was spent at the supply stores. I know it's not perfect - but the contractor was happy with the work and it saved my neighbor from having an open trench blocking his cattle/barn access for the foreseeable future. This is the neighbor I posted about in the chat thread who hit electrical/water/sewer all in the same day... Not pictured: rewiring his workshop after hitting the conduit with the trencher. Took them an hour to unwrap the 8awg wire off the 4' trencher. Haha. While I worked on the electrical and manifolds, neighbor and his cousin/helper did the pipe work. Good enough for him, close enough for me. Did I mention he quit smoking the day before we started this project? There were no changing minds those three days.     The building side wiring is 100% temporary as a new panel/service are being installed. His electricians can take it from here, I just hopped in the empty workshop conduit the trencher conveniently freed up for us. I left them at least 8ft of wire.  Sch80 out of the well head. The ABS is a sleeve for when they repour concrete around the well casing.  Here's the "mechanical corner" in the basement of their remodel. I basically used the design I made for my house a few years back. The well supplies a 1-1/4 pipe with check valve to the control side (pressure tank/gauge/pressure switch/drain/pressure relief). It's then reduced into three 1" lines all connected with unions for removal/repairs. One for the faucets with a check valve and shut off. One for the main house, going through a 5 micron 20" bag filter pre-water softeners. One for the outbuilding, same as the house. I hung the pressure treated timber to mount the filter units with my new hammer drill, which was awesome. I should have done a backer board for my filters, maybe next time. I had one issue, our helper glued a union and then tightened it. Turns out he was a little short on the pipe length, tightening the still wet union pulled the glue apart. Even with a 20min cure, the force had compromised the PVC weld/glue. While standing in the basement, taking a photo the main supply burst in my face. I was soaked head to toe. Thankfully the electrical is all weather tight fittings. I was 100% not amused. A compromised joint matters when welding/gluing 60psi lines. Imagine if it burst a few hours later and filled the basement. Don't just call something good enough.  Sometimes it's fun just to be a good neighbor. It's buying me lots of credits for when I fire up a straight piped 3 rotor. the spyder fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 04:50
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Actual content. Last time I posted a photo, something seemed off with the 20b pans. How in the hell would you clean them out? So, a quick call to the machinist and bam! Cleanout port. You can now reach every corner with a parts washer nozzle/hose/solvent. Today I got to stop by and check them out. They are pretty nice IMO.          In a week or so I'll list these for sale once the fasteners arrive. The price is... staggering. $1800. This includes fixtures, material, bungs, fabrication, welding, etc... But none of our time. At nearly 2k, these are a loss item when it comes to a product. It's a long story. Am I happy overall? Hell no. Are these a great pan like nothing else out there? Yes. The project, communication between partners, handling of fab/welding - complete poo poo show. I don't even want to post about it. But at the end of the day, we have a pan. A drat nice pan. A pan that IMO needs the motor mount wings moved 2" back to support the aftermarket subframe better... but I can't eat $20k in work...
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Jul 25, 2021 05:02
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Went to a car show and stopped for a quick photo at our old spot.   Seeing as I would like to travel to visit my parents more, I installed a 50amp RV plug for charging the Model3 at their house. I didn't even have a chance to test it before my dad had a coat of paint on it.  And I actually washed it for the first time since I brought it home from DoomTrainPhD. Their house has soft water, so everything just wipes right off and no spots. I really should fix my water softener.  When I got home today, a friend was waiting for me in the drive way. This Rx-2 has the 13B-PPort shown a few pages back at Rob's shop.      
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Aug 6, 2021 05:36
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That is gorgeous, more pictures of that car please.
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Aug 6, 2021 06:35
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the spyder posted:
RX-3 Savannah coupe. Apologies about the "Well.... actually"  I actually owned a RX-2 coupe which I regret selling years ago, drat thing is worth a frightening amount of money now.  This one in fact
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Aug 6, 2021 23:39
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Lol my house has ultra-hard water, I have a filter on the hose and the car was clayed, polished and sealed the day before you picked it up. That rx2 needs at least another hundred pictures and video of it going “brap-brap-brap”
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Aug 7, 2021 00:08
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Yeah that's an RX-3, did a double take there. I bet it hauls rear end with that port.
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Aug 7, 2021 00:20
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My brain did a nice typo there. It’s in break in, we took it for a short drive at 4K RPM. He mainly drag races and does shows.
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Aug 7, 2021 00:32
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Check out this awesome side seal tool my friend designed and Rob has made into a product. You run it over sand paper and it maintains the correct angle and a perfect edge for the corner seals. You have to fit each one when building a motor and this makes quick work of it.  And the truck is fixed - it ate a u-joint at 370k. I had the driveshaft rebuild, new yolk. I'll need to do a output bearing in the transfer case at some point soon. Until then, it's looking pretty good for the age. A quick bath shows the Aerospace 303 graphene is still holding up after ~9 months.  Bad news... one of these is sold. Decided to focus on my other bad ideas. I'll miss the Z, but I've driven it twice in two years  This car. Let me tell you I've never been as happy to have a car in and out of my life in three days before. I did an inspection for a friend and the summary is: Auto. Stored at the beach the last 10 years. Everything badly corroded. Compounded by mice living/peeing all over. Would not start. 0-17PSI of compression per rotor face.... Hit front/rear on the right side - stiched quarter job (but nicely done IMO). A couple bought it out of state and had it transported as a non-runner. It sold for more than I would have ever imagined. 14.5k... what the gently caress   Did I say bad ideas? I was cleaning out the hoard of FC parts friends left at my house (FINALLY) and had to move the Porsche. I half heartedly rolled it over to the bay and after staring at it for a few days decided to try a really stupid idea.   Can confirm, lift works as a ports-power in a pinch. The window frame itself is 98% back and I'm really happy with that.    I gave up here. The metal must be double layered - I'm starting to make "mountains" and I don't want to make a porcupine of raised spots.  My body shop buddy is going to give me some guidance. I'm just messing around because it makes me sad looking at it all banged up. #Edit - he recommends working the body lines first and then head towards the center. I'll give it a shot. the spyder fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 21:55
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Ratty ac 911 is the best 911, that's pretty clever using the lift to get the big initial dent out.
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Aug 12, 2021 19:28
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the spyder posted:Check out this awesome side seal tool my friend designed and Rob has made into a product. You run it over sand paper and it maintains the correct angle and a perfect edge for the corner seals. You have to fit each one when building a motor and this makes quick work of it. And the side seal tool is cool! quote:I gave up here. The metal must be double layered - I'm starting to make "mountains" and I don't want to make a porcupine of raised spots. That Shop Teacher Guy (Mr. Wellwood - you may remember him as that guy who built the V8 Pontiac Firefly some time ago) hates body work, but offers some advice while fixing the roof of his C10 that an idiot yard loader dented: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2RAwz2y8HA He has other videos involving working sheetmetal, too, while working on his '61 Chevy. NitroSpazzz posted:Ratty ac 911 is the best 911, that's pretty clever using the lift to get the big initial dent out. I'm a fan of using the tools one has. I mean, it's just a very large hydraulic ram, no?
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Aug 17, 2021 22:21
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I'm fairly certain the work stress has amplified my dyslexia by 5x. Some days my brain just says, yep, close enough. Haha. Minimal updates. Work has kicked my rear end these last few weeks. First, let's talk departures. The 71 Celica is finally off to it's new home with my buddy in Seattle. It's taken a year to get it up to his new house. His dad had the same car and he's going to resto-mod it. I also sent home a TRUCK load of his junk laying around my shop, like seats and wheels. Oh and the dozen boxes of FD parts.  The 240z is still here, mainly because the new owner is out of town. Well that and the drivers door latch stoped latching... I'll fix that before kicking it down the road.  Random well update. So after that whole "let's dump acid down the well" adventure, we started to have a smell to our water. Heavy sulfur. The toilet water (stagnate for most the time) would develop a film after just an hour and a heavy orange iron bacteria deposit was forming on the fixtures. I feared that I had kicked off a huge new bacterial growth in the well itself. I pulled the filters to see what was up. Looks like I forgot to account for the bio-die off and trapped it in the filters. Yea this is disgusting. I bleached the housings, new filters, and will continue to monitor. The well itself is clean/no film or deposits. I'll still bleach it this week out of precaution. Messing with water supplies is no joke. Note we do NOT drink this water or really cook with it. bleaaaah.    Oh and speaking of filters, changed the Tesla's cabin filter. The blower works much better now.  The test AST (air separation tank) for the FD is finally done ish? I still have to figure out a few things, but it looks good enough to sell.  Kinda a shop update? I had been feeling overwhelmed by the piles of stuff. I hate when a shop fills to the point every corner, flat surface, and such is used. It just feels like a hoarders place. (Ask me about our hoarder neighbor when we were kids, poor old lady.) Anyways - I cleaned last night. Kinda. I reorganized, tossed stuff out. But now I need to really sort/organize as I do NOT want anything on the floor. The entire point of the black shelves was to store short term project parts. Not stack them ~2' deep. Looking in, not bad.  The woodshop... it's a disaster. I want to 1) have my buddy pickup this R12 AC machine he drug here, and 2) Put the 7.3 back together as the trans/bench seat/huge box of parts are all for it.  Machine shop/metal area is covered in CYM parts on the floor. I've got an engine on order for that project which will get it back on the road.  Tool and fluids - I need to recycle old fluids/give them away.  And now to the corner that took the most work. There was barely a path to walk back here before. Now it's clear, everything is sorted. I can make some good progress here as the lower shelf full of yellow bins can all head upstairs.    Last, I need to get that air compressor dryer upstairs.  Next up - upstairs.... oh god what have I started.
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Aug 25, 2021 18:17
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I love the shop updates. Your build was such a great thing to watch, it's good to see you giving it some love.
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Aug 25, 2021 18:41
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drat it, I completely forgot to replace the cabin filter! That's a good amount of last year's wild fires caught up in that filter. Sorry about that!
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Aug 26, 2021 00:35
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No worries here - you reminded me when I picked it up. But yes- it was incredibly clogged. Cleaning progress: This junk was in the loft in the shop, along with a 24u Cisco lab and 4 additional black/yellow bins of junk.  My friend came over and helped me sort. I got down to a sort bin, power cables/strips bin, and a A/V bin. Really happy with the progress.  My friend took home a full bin of cables, parts, monitor arms. The truck has a full bed of junk to take to the local electronics recycler. Ordered 4 new black wire rack shelves. Next up is organizing FD parts in the loft upstairs.
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Aug 26, 2021 06:17
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With the wife+kids out of town, I kept making progress on small projects. I'm not caught up - but at the same time I'm headed in the right direction. The new shelves arrived and boy are they light weight vs the previous brand I bought. Kinda regretting it, but I did not want to wait for a deal on the stronger shelves. Plus if I had left the open space, it would have refilled full of crap! Next up is organizing.     I did a quick inspection on the 96 RHD - at 95km, it had a leaking rear main seal amoung other normal wear/tear. He got a good deal and I think even with the repairs he'll be just fine.  Saturday I stopped by Rob's late in the day. I only had a few minutes, but I wanted to test fit the new fully baffled pan. It needs a small spacer adjustment, which Rob can handle in house. Once his "encomny" street pans have sold, we'll list these for sale. I'm going to try powder coating one at home for fun.      Rob had this little NA 20b in for a quick repair. Pro-tip: Run a drat air filter. This thing sucked up something and dented the apex seal groove just enough to pinch it, causing it to have uneven compression.  And since I was on that side of town, I checked out the progress on a FC turbo manifold build I hooked my fabricator buddy up with. Full manifold, downpipe, cat back exhaust. Should be nice when it's done.  Late in the evening I worked on a fun project for our track Rx-8. The shifter plate was wearing where the pin rubbed against it. Instead of folding over some brass sheet, I TIG brazed some aluminum bronze onto the wear surface. Turned out fantastic. Let's see if actually helps.     I washed the MSM. My wife has officially declared this as her car. However I'm tempted with the rise in values to sell it and replace it with a 09-11 Boxster. She loves to ferry our daughter around in it and the safety factor alone makes me think the slightly larger Boxster is a better option. In the end I'll leave it up to her. It's a super fun little car. 
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Aug 30, 2021 22:58
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Well I'm not sure what wild hair got into me, but I pulled the 7.3 motor into the shop. Guess I was tired of walking by it under a tarp along side the driveway. I really, really want to clean this place up (and out!). Getting the F250 back together would free up the wood shop as I've been storing parts in front of the table saw for... 2 years? Same for the metal shop, outside, in the truck.... this thing was everywhere. For those who don't want to read back, this was a $4k 2000 F250 Larriat with a "bad transmission and maybe two dead injectors". Yea the trans was cooked and the block had 2? 3? cracked pistons. gently caress the PO. It was too good to be true. Anywho, bought a running 7.3 with double the miles. Spent $$$$ rebuilding the trans and it's since sat in the shop awaiting time. Once I got it inside I immediately cursed myself for not doing this sooner. The rust/corrosion was starting to set in.  With the covers off I found just a hint of surface rust along one side. Everything else was clean. The engine went POP and turned over easy. I'll toss some WD down the CYL once I pull the glow plugs.  Since I have the memory of a gold fish recently, I started digging. And digging. Eventually I dug out 95% of the parts I remember buying for this project.  Yes those all go somewhere.  The trans is a "stage 2" rebuild, billet converter, and the oil pan stripped soooo I bought this fancy aluminum deep sump from B+M.  Everything else is in the boxes. Except the muffler (lol like I'd run a 4" straight pipe...), oil/atf, and new struts. $$$$. I spent the money a bought a full O-Ring kit, new oil/water cooler, and pretty much every sensor on the engine known to fail. I really do want this to last once it's together. The only thing I did NOT buy was new injectors, injector cups, and o-rings. Now's the time to convince me I should spend another $$$$ on those. Ugh.  At least the turbo I tossed in the cab was still in decent shape. For those who remember I rebuilt it while awaiting parts. Like a year ago.  There's so much to look forwards too... like this fuel filter bowl growing some form of slime.  And this is why you store radiators with cardboard on the exposed fins.... a victim of an unknown accident while in storage. Should I just run it? I see no fatigue.  Tonight I will inventory and order what I can't find. Tomorrow I will start replacing o-rings, the oil/water cooler, and what ever else I deem necessary outside the truck. The only method I have to lift this is my neighbors little JD tractor, which can barely pick up the stripped block as shown.
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Aug 31, 2021 04:01
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Organization looks like it's going well. It's such a slog to do when you've got projects you want to work on but it's worth it. Even with minimal work in the garage this summer mine is a disaster and I need to do a fall clean up and reorganize as well as selling off a bunch of stuff from past cars and projects.
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Aug 31, 2021 10:51
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One of the best feelings in the world is having a clean and organized shop. Luckily, one can not become desensitized to such a feeling because shops have approximately two weeks maximum before they decide to become unorganized by themselves. 
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Aug 31, 2021 15:02
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Those look like the baker's racks that home Depot has for decent money? I like those, they're surprisingly strong for the price. I feel you on shop cleanup, mine was a cesspit even compared to your messy pictures and I HAD to clean it up for the project I just finished. I swept up 60 pounds of grinding dust, lathe chips, dirt, rust chunks, unidentifiable "it fell off the bottom of the truck while I was working on it" gunk, random rusted and cut hardware, chunks of old seals and gaskets, part baggies and boxes that fell behind and under shelves and large parts, etc etc etc. And that was only a 28ish by 14ish area I think. It was pretty bad.
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Aug 31, 2021 21:11
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I grabbed these off eBay, which has been the cheapest place I've found these NSF style shelving. I loaded ~ 200lb of bolts/nuts/hardware on one. No issues yet, but that was just one shelf. The cleaning has been mentally awesome. Digging yourself out of a dozen projects is a pain that no one likes to undertake. So, when are you heading out here to help me toss this 7.3 back together? lol
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Aug 31, 2021 22:30
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the spyder posted:Digging yourself out of a dozen projects is a pain that no one likes to undertake. Crossing them off will feel great though.
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Sep 1, 2021 00:17
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Saturday I attempted to take a lazy day off. Instead I found myself bored and tore back into the diesel. Good progress was made over the long holiday weekend, but I've ran into a problem. I'll update with details later.                                 With the engine now in the truck, I purchased the ~$500 in fluids to fill the monster capacities. My normal cars/trucks take max 6 quarts of oil. This lovely thing takes 15 quarts of oil, 8 gallons of coolant, and 17 quarts of ATF - not including the 4 quarts for the powersteering/hydroboost.   Oh god drat it. I should have replaced the water pump while I had the chance. It immediately started to leak from the weep hole. At least I was smart and started with the distilled water first.  And this is where the problem arose. With everything bolted together, every connector checked and triple checked - I cranked it over. Nothing. Some quick research shows that after you drain/trap air in the HPOP lines like I did changing the O-Rings (and from it sitting for 2 years...) it can take up to 15-20 cranks to bleed the air out. I'm currently at cranking attempt ~12? This is with stopping after ~15-20 seconds to allow the batteries, started, and jump box/charger to cool. I've gone through every possible troubleshooting step I could without having a scanner capable of reading some of the IPC or IPR pressures. These are mainly for my sanity, but here's what I've got: 1) Full/Charged batteries 2) ICP Sensor - New 3) IPR Sensor - New 4) CPS Sensor - New, tach moves confirming signal. 5) Checked HPOP oil level - full (need to change when I have time) 6) Wait to start light illuminates (showing 30amp fuse is good and ECM power good) 7) Checked fuel level at filter bowl/housing - good 8) New glow plugs and relay - relay clicks and wires are warm after key on 9) 10 gallons of fresh diesel (5 gallons previously ~2 years ago....), oil is full, etc. 10) Oil pressure builds within 3-5 seconds, sits 3/4 on the gauge 11) No codes on a basic scan tool 12) Confirmed glow plug relay working, can see the expected voltage drop when on 13) Verified fuel lines are not swapped, fuel bowl returns as expected - however I'm not happy with the pressure coming out of the bowl. Ordering a new pump. I am just starting to smell Diesel out the tail pipe - no white smoke yet which makes me think the injectors are not firing. So I'm going to continue cranking to see what happens. I tried a little WD40 down the intake, but nothing else. (gently caress you PO and your cans of ether). My friend is bringing over his Ford scan tool and we'll check the ECM health. There's just so much that was wrong with this truck/has been changed, it's just frustrating. I hate to say I regret taking on this project - BUT, and I mean it - it's been incredibly good for me to get it this far back together. Even with the issues, it's helped clear yet another thing from my mental backlog. I'm just no diesel expert. Some troubleshooting pics. This was definitely a costal rig- as seen above with the rust and confirmed by the massive amount of sand/dirt in every possible nook and cranny.  These Injector Drivers are identical and interchangeable from what I can tell 99-2003. I had the spare from the other engine and swapped it to see if anything changed. Nada.  All fuses check out, though a few are oversized. Thank's PO!  *edit - Found a guide on testing the IDM, Ohm'd out the injectors. All sit at ~3 ohms except #3 (pass side #2) - which is higher at 4.5. I'll investigate this, but I do not believe it would cause a no start. IDM power, grounds, shielding all check out. Swapped back to the original unit and got more "smell" from the tail pipe if that makes sense. I'm on crank 15?16? now. *Edit - at least to 20 crank attempts now. Fuel pressure is suspect - ordering a new pump. the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 9, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 20:09
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Good news! My OBD2 bluetooth module arrived. Plugged it in, cranked, and the issue became really apparent. The IPR (Injector Pressure Regulator) was stuck wide open. The ICP (pressure sensor) was reading at max 250PSI and 500psi is needed to fire the injectors. The ICP calls on the IPR, which was running full duty cycle at cranking, but still unable to deliver enough oil to build the necessary rail pressure. The IPR was brand new, from Motorcraft. $145. So what do you do? Take it apart! The shuttle valve actuated by the coil was frozen. It should easily tap out from the body (left).  I remembered I found the old IPR that came on the original engine and threw it away this weekend. I figured what the hell and dug through the trash can. Amazingly enough, there it was just a ft or so down. Probably one of the few times I've been happy my son did not take out the trash on time... I combined the two, new o-rings, new coil, and reinstalled it. After a long crank, it fired and ran. It stumbled for ~10-15 minutes as air purged from both the HPOP and fuel system, but then cleaned up. I should mention the water pump is no longer leaking - which per motorcraft, if the seals sit dry they will leak until swollen. First I've dealt with a pump like this - I ordered a new one just in case. Oh and I forgot to put the fan back on. Fixed that before it got hot.    The road to my house is closed, so I felt safe driving it up to the local industrial park. After ~20 minutes of idling around and maybe 10 miles, the transmission started to shift normally and everything started to warm up. I stopped, checked ATF, checked power steering, and drove it back home. Everything got nice and warm. I definitely need to install the muffler, I'm not a fan of the straight 4" exhaust. Oh and I definitely need to toss that pump in, feels very underpowered, maybe hit 40MPH. I've read that's common with a bad pump or clogged intake screen.   Now there's a bunch of issues to still solve, but this is now a running and driving project that can easily be moved around. It will need brake and suspension work first. I may have only put two cab bolts back in, don't be me kids. I'll get the rear seat in, clean the cab, maybe fix the radio next week and then park it until I have some free time this fall. Feels good man. the spyder fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 10, 2021 06:23
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Goddamn, that's a lot of work you've put into that truck. It's always nice when there's only one thing really keeping it from starting. Well done!
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Sep 10, 2021 08:24
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| # ? May 28, 2024 00:01 |
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Can't believe it runs! Also get rid of those goddamn headlights...
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Sep 10, 2021 16:50
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