|
Make sure you get a starter rated one. Most will probably be fine but might as well get the right thing. If you can wait a few days and the dimensions are right just get this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323964601015?hash=item4b6dcb82b7:g:DxgAAOSwn0Vdujif
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 04:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 18:41 |
|
|
StormDrain posted:Ohhh... So maybe this dent is a bad thing? Ouch, that dent is big enough it might be completely shorted internally. Even if it still works perfectly it's probably old enough to be worth replacing anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 04:42
|
|
|
kastein posted:Make sure you get a starter rated one. Most will probably be fine but might as well get the right thing. Lol, that seller crammed the rest of their store into the item description so at first I thought they were saying that capacitor doubled as a recoil starter for a snowblower while offering superior filtration for a Briggs and Stratton engine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 04:49
|
|
|
by the way, the ratings on the can show the capacitance and voltage rating Circled is the capacitance in microfarads (mfd or μF), 107 - 129. I'm seeing a lot of 108uF -0%/+10% (or +20%) and those would be a good choice. Going a touch bigger is fine like if you already had one on hand, but you can't make it arbitrarily large. The voltage rating on this old cap is 110v, replace it with one rated for 125v. Higher voltage rating is fine and has no drawbacks other than cost and they probably won't fit. taqueso fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jul 28, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 04:56
|
|
|
taqueso posted:by the way, the ratings on the can show the capacitance and voltage rating I figured that's what that meant, I was not sure if MFD meant that but it seemed right. I went with 125v, 124MFD, rated as a motor starter. This thing is old as hell, my dad bought it from a school that was liquidating its shop in the 70s or 80s and got it for $10. It's nice to have, I've been missing it lately as I've been fabricating little brackets and such. I never knew what that bump was, thank you very much for identifying it. I hadn't noticed the dent at all, and it makes sense that it worked fine at the old place, and not at all here. I figured the drill was a constant but it was a variable!
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 05:11
|
|
|
Just FYI, Newark is g2g. I spend thousands with them every year. They're not aimed at consumers, but they're a solid company. If they screw anything up, they'll make it right.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2021 16:46
|
|
|
Newark storage box report: HF quality, not Stanley quality. They're fine for light duty, but the case/lid aren't as rigid as the Stanley, so they're not great for small stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
For $6 I wasn't expecting much. My main concern with the fully clear plastic ones is the integrated hinge fatigue cracking. These actually have a pinned hinge which may fail, but only because I broke them off. They also have individual buckets which is nice. Mine are going to be spending their lives in a rolling cabinet so I expect them to last a long time 
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2021 16:17
|
|
|
Those washers will be all over if you don't bag them. That's what I meant about the small stuff. The Stanley's are a little better, but I still bag most washers and <#6 nuts. Somewhere in this thread or the garage thread, I've got pics of the rolling organizer I built for my Stanley boxes. I'll build another one for these, probably supporting them by the bottom instead of the lid lip.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2021 17:43
|
|
|
If you have access to a 3D printer these are a pro move for those Stanley organizers. Bought the Stanley ones specifically for these. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3094761 Phone posting: https://imgur.com/a/bAh8JVK Gonna Send It fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 05:05
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Those washers will be all over if you don't bag them. That's what I meant about the small stuff. The Stanley's are a little better, but I still bag most washers and <#6 nuts. Somewhere in this thread or the garage thread, I've got pics of the rolling organizer I built for my Stanley boxes. I'll build another one for these, probably supporting them by the bottom instead of the lid lip. I have better luck with tackle boxes for the really small hardware, even in the Milwaukee cases anything smaller than 1/4-20 needs to be bagged or in little jars. Now I need a good parts cabinet for all my hardware 5/16ths and up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 14:59
|
|
|
After finding the side step bars on the truck had inexplicably been mounted with metric bolts and crossthreaded SAE nuts, I went out and bought an actually-good BAHCO deep impact set to bulk up my cheap short impact socket set, which is missing half the rises as is typical for cheap sets. By far the best sockets I can find on the local market. Walls are as thin as standard chrome sockets, size stamped heads, all the awkward 10-19 sizes like 13, 16 and 18 with no skips, properly deep heads and even comes with 10 to 12mm so you can just annihilate rust stuck body bolts with then. Also the box - BAHCO boxes are solid as all hell and thick enough that I don't think they'll ever actually wear out. Here's one of the bolts that I backed out most of the way with it on the high torque M18. The head snapped off after I got this far.  who even does this poo poo Spades fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Aug 4, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 07:48
|
|
|
Spades posted:who even does this poo poo 99% of people
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 11:56
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Ohhh... So maybe this dent is a bad thing? OK I put a new capacitor on and it's the same thing. Sad! I get about a quarter turn and it stops. I took the case apart, the starting circuit switch was in good shape, it made connection, it's hard to see the contacts but I rubbed it with a 400 grit sandpaper a bit and got very low resistance across it. So now I don't know! It was crusty inside so I vaccumed it and blew it out. A wire lost a bit of insulation over a splice, so I wrapped that up. I was really hoping it was that and it wasn't. I checked continuity from power to ground and it doesn't seem to be shorting out. Anyone got a good resource on troubleshooting?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 05:57
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:OK I put a new capacitor on and it's the same thing. Sad! I get about a quarter turn and it stops. I took the case apart, the starting circuit switch was in good shape, it made connection, it's hard to see the contacts but I rubbed it with a 400 grit sandpaper a bit and got very low resistance across it. First things off the top of my head. Still sounds to me like you still have an issue with the start circuit. If you turn on power and give it a spin by hand does it work? That would confirm that its start circuit related. The motor is dual voltage, is it set up for the voltage you're currently running? One of the pictures you posted shows how it should be wired the one that shows different colored wires to the input. Low voltage being 110 and high being 220. From your post is sounds like you have at least a basic multimeter? A quick check that you're getting expected voltage out of the outlet wont hurt. Its possible(but unlikely) that you're new cap is bad also, if your meter doesn't have a capacitance check mode, looks kinda like -|(- you can do a basic check of if a capacitors good by putting you're meter on the highest resistance range and connecting to the terminals (short it out with an insulated screwdriver or a piece of wire first) it should start at low resistance and slowly go up to measuring open circuit. The other component of the start circuit is the centrifugal switch which you said looked good. The only time I have had similar issues not start circuit related and not caused by the windings being completely burned up was caused by incorrect disassembly, we had some how moved the rotor on the shaft and it wasn't positioned correctly within the stator so the motor would run but it was pulling more current then it should(it took a call with the manufacturer to figure that one out) so its possible when you disassembled/reassembled you introduced some issue(binding bearing/centrifugal switch caught on something, (if I'm recalling correctly they have to be maneuvered around a PCB on some motors)) Hope this might be helpful I don't have a reference for trouble shooting to recommend but I have a pretty good knowledge of motors and am happy to keep spitballing ideas. Fake edit: Everything spins freely by hand right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 08:42
|
|
|
Are you sure you installed the cap correctly with regards to polarity? It’s a pretty simple circuit looks like. You’ll figure it out. Especially with the guy who posted above this posts help 
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 13:52
|
|
|
jeremiah johnson posted:First things off the top of my head. Still sounds to me like you still have an issue with the start circuit. If you turn on power and give it a spin by hand does it work? That would confirm that its start circuit related. That was good thank you! It flips my breaker so quick I haven't had a chance to try push starting it, but I will. I'll check my wall voltage for sure. I've never removed any wiring from the switch, I checked it regardless and it was correct. The colors matched the 110v diagram. I added some tape around the connections too just in case it was arcing. I noticed some arc damage to the housing behind the switch. No clue how old that is. I did do that same capacitance check with the multimeter after searching online on how to test. It is a higher range than the old one but close. I didn't realize it would be a range when I ordered it, I thought it would be a single rating. It didn't work before I took it apart either, so I'm assuming whatever failure is not due to the stator shifting. I did learn a lot about AC motors last night on YouTube but still no clue what's up. My best guess right now has to do with the crunchy splice wrap I found. Like I have a short somewhere but I don't see any right now. And if a motor is a continuous winding theres not a good way to check that, right? Just visually? I thought I had a smoking gun with the starting circuit contacts, when I had it apart they were not making contact, but that was just because thr shaft moved down when it was disassembled, and when assembled it does make contact. I was able to check continuity when it was assembled to verify. I made as assumption that an AC capacitor doesn't have polarity. No stripe, no markings. I packed it up late last night so here's hoping a fresh look will help. I probably need to understand how the starting circuit works better.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 15:53
|
|
|
jeremiah johnson posted:(Good Advice) I had a cap issue with my table saw last summer, the running cap failed and it would start spinning but the thermal overload in the motor starter would trip it out. It doesn't sound exactly like your issue but besides replacing both caps I took every cover and shroud off the motor and cleaned it as best I could with compressed air and a brush. Doing this made the centrifugal switch operate much more freely. It sounds like you tried this already but I thought I'd throw it in there. I would probably measure the winding resistance of the motor and then bypass the switch for testing. The winding resistance is going to be low but it shouldn't be a direct short, you should be able to tell the difference with a decent meter. Also I've seen some strange things happen with switches so this should eliminate that being a potential cause.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 18:12
|
|
|
I just wanna say, keep posting about this. I know jack about electrical things (I couldn't have told you there was a capacitor on a pillar drill), but all the forensics and diagnosis is interesting. Maybe I'll even remember some if I see a similar issue.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 20:38
|
|
|
namlosh posted:Are you sure you installed the cap correctly with regards to polarity? Quoting myself out of shame… forgot you were dealing with an AC system and polarity wouldn’t matter. Agreed with above, good conversation and I’m rooting for you to get it working!
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 20:58
|
|
|
Tripping the breaker that fast makes me think there is a short somewhere
taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Aug 6, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2021 23:48
|
|
|
taqueso posted:Tripping the breaker that fast makes me think there is a short somewhere Yep, could be. If you have a friend with a megger, you can use that to see if the motor's insulation is still up to spec.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 01:40
|
|
|
If you're tripping the breaker within 30 seconds you probably don't need a meg ohm meter to measure the windings.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 05:16
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:If you're tripping the breaker within 30 seconds you probably don't need a meg ohm meter to measure the windings. True, but the same point applies whether you do it with a megger or multimeter. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 12:15
|
|
|
Depending on the voltage you megger at the voltage will find ground even with the insulation in perfect condition. That said I have hi-potted hundreds if not thousands of fan and pump motors (120/240 to 480V motors) with 1500VAC successfully. If you can get your hands on a megger you could try connecting all the wires coming out of the motor together (except any ground wires) and hit them with 250 or 500V, I don't think this is the issue because if it was a ground fault the GFCI would pop before you even pulled your finger away from the button or switch. My bet is on the switch, motor, or crusty wiring somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 16:42
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:My bet is on the switch, motor, or crusty wiring somewhere. Smart bet. When I first was gifted this baby, it had a downright dangerous plug on it. I put a new cord cap on it, black to brass, white to neutral, green to ground.  I finally figured it out after I reinsulated a lot do crusty wires, wiped it down and put it back together. I had a huge spark when I tried again, noticed the switch was grounding out to the frame and fixed a little bracket that was dented. Still didn't work, but I was back to a one spin and done. I said gently caress it and took it to the dining room and it ran fine. So I determined I had a ground leak. As you see, it was more of a ground aquaduct. For the record, this was the first time I ever took the switch apart. Do never trust wire colors.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 22:21
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:I finally figured it out Huzzah!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 22:30
|
|
|
Nice Dude, get some ring terminals. Now that it has a new cap it shouldn't give you trouble for years.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 23:03
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:Nice Dude. You're right. Edit, small update, I wired it backwards and it didn't drill worth a poo poo lol. Good now, ran for a whole a drilled a bunch of holes and then decided to pop the gfi again. I'm done with this job so I'll hang it up and see if I let something in there loose and wire the switch better, probably even toss a cover plate on it. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Aug 7, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2021 23:53
|
|
|
I was recommended anti-vibration gloves to wear while using a sander or grinder (here? OSHA thread?). Anyone have a pair they especially like? It's very light duty, at best a couple of hours a week depending on how much DIY I'm doing, so I don't really wanna spend more than, say, $20.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2021 16:37
|
|
|
For a couple hours a week I wouldn't worry about it. If it was your job, yes. Edit, don't let that stop you! I'm interested in the idea actually.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2021 16:44
|
|
|
Eh, don’t like the numb tingly feeling afterwards. Gonna change up my biking style for the same reason. Having some aches in the hands and wrists as I age.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2021 16:49
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Eh, don’t like the numb tingly feeling afterwards. Gonna change up my biking style for the same reason. Having some aches in the hands and wrists as I age. Yeah I had instant regret when I hit the post button. If you want to have more safety gear then you should. And I may want a pair too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2021 16:54
|
|
|
VWF is a serious issue, I honestly should probably wear gloves while grinding.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 17:36
|
|
|
In my unintentional march to becoming an excavation contractor I've been agonizing over a rotary laser/transit for this fall when I've got a bunch of drainage jobs scheduled. I've been trying to bottom feed on ebay/fb marketplace/CL to find a complete kit or just pieces at the right price. I looked at aliexpress and the like and just can't come to terms with spending a couple hundred bucks on something that probably won't work worth a drat straight out of the box. The used pricing is also insane, with people asking for $600+ for a pro level rotary laser that's all beat to hell, no accessories, missing a case. So I found a factory reconditioned Bosh that was going for just under $500. Searching around for the model number led me to $399/free shipping at Tools Plus which is just a couple states away.  This thing is properly nice, in a great case, has everything I actually need and is cheaper than the cheapest used (including bullshit manual leveling ones) units I could find. It may not be a Topcon, but honestly I've used a couple different topcons and they aren't significantly different. In fact, they have fewer features than this thing (has a line drawing mode, point mode, can be used on it's side and has a remote). The tripod feels flimsy, but that's the cheapest part to replace other than the staff. I can't believe it took me this long to find something that I could stomach buying. Glad I didn't go used. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Aug 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 17:49
|
|
|
kastein posted:VWF is a serious issue, I honestly should probably wear gloves while grinding. Well, I ordered the only in stock pair in size medium with more than 2 reviews on Amazon that didn't have armor all over the back of the hand. I'll see how they are in when they show up in 10 days or so.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 17:54
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Well, I ordered the only in stock pair in size medium with more than 2 reviews on Amazon that didn't have armor all over the back of the hand. I'll see how they are in when they show up in 10 days or so. Who would put Armor All on gloves? Ohhhhhhhh
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 19:43
|
|
|
I don't box, but boxing wraps would probably work, right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 20:21
|
|
|
Anyone know of some good and affordable hose clamps? I'd totally be down with an assortment kit if there's a decent one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2021 09:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 18:41 |
|
|
Lowclock posted:Anyone know of some good and affordable hose clamps? I'd totally be down with an assortment kit if there's a decent one. They seem to be cheaper at hardware stores than at auto parts stores. Skip the Harbor Freight ones, they're absolute trash.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2021 16:41
|
|
