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jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


MasterBuilder posted:

Oil paints seem like a bit too much of a faff for all but competitive work but the on model mixing is pretty nuts. See V.V.

And thanks for the white paint suggestions all.
seeing someone use oil paints to do edge highlighting and grabbing a little sponge to feather the highlight out was a real :aaaaa: moment for me

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I'm just not sure my little painting corner has enough ventilation to deal with a cup of turpentine just hanging out

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

jesus WEP posted:

seeing someone use oil paints to do edge highlighting and grabbing a little sponge to feather the highlight out was a real :aaaaa: moment for me

That sounds really hard on a space marine size, maybe on a tank...

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007

Eej posted:

I'm just not sure my little painting corner has enough ventilation to deal with a cup of turpentine just hanging out

You can use odorless thinner, there's no need for something that horrible.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mona-Lisa-32-Ounce-Odorless-Thinner/dp/B002646NBS/

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Oh well that changes things. I was under the impression that "odourless mineral spirits" or whatever is just as bad for you, you just can't smell it.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Odourless thinner will still fry your brain, you just can't smell it.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Oil paints are just so easy and forgiving. After I figured that out I became pretty disappointed that I learned acrylics first. I'll never edge highlight or blend with them again!

I wasn't happy with my dark mechanicum bases so I redid them to match my ZM tiles. Before pigments, but after everything else:


The "oh poo poo" part of pigment use


Wish that I could preserve this dusty effect, but alas, if you seal em up, most of it goes away



Rebased snail men. Bad lighting for all these shots, but overall, I'm quite pleased.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

BULBASAUR posted:

After I figured that out I became pretty disappointed that I learned acrylics first. I'll never edge highlight or blend with them again!

There's probably a lot of skill that carries over without you even realizing, so it's not like you wasted your time!

I'm also still at the acrylics stage, I feel that I have so much acrylic paints I should use a few more bottles before giving oils a try (also I have no space for more paints).

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
Here’s a quick research question if it’s ok?

I’m so used to integrated bases (ie ”piedestals”), being mostly a historical painter/gamer. I rarely see slottabases these days. But now I’m about to cast some fantasy style minis, and slottabases used to rule the roost in fantasy. Is it still so? Would it be worth the extra hassle to make slottsbase tabs, or is it fine to just do integrated bases?

The main thing that could make me reconsider, I think, is that it’s easier with tabs if you’re doing custom resin bases, as you can just snip them off.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
Oils don't fully replace acrylics either, just another tool in the kit. Large areas of flesh is easily my favorite use for them. So much depends on the surface I am working on also, I am addicted to my airbrush so the moment something is big enough that I can use that it takes over all of my blending work. But then really small areas like standard faces I'd usually rather just use acrylics with some glazes.

But if you ever wanted to look into wet blending, oil paints are going to be your jam. Same style, 6000% easier.

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

SkyeAuroline posted:

I'm hopeful it's just a brush issue - my priming brush is some Michaels generic thing, most of my painting is done with W&Ns and I haven't even held it since starting back up yet. Round handles but they did well enough for a long time, hopefully still fine...

Thanks. Did you end up with an alternate grip that's helped besides "just relax"?

Not really for painting, writing is murder but painting was ok if I put my elbows on the table, brace my palms against each other in a sort of cup, one hand holds and manipulates the model. My pain is mostly from touch typing, keeping my fingers at full extension or gripping tightly. The goobertown hobbies guy has the weirdest painting grip I can think of, it's a relaxed fist up higher than the other hand. https://youtu.be/N5wo2o9VlRY

I'd never paint for hours without breaks. If it's still too painful there are probably tools to help people who can't grip pens or brushes that could be adapted for you.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Furism posted:

I'm also still at the acrylics stage, I feel that I have so much acrylic paints I should use a few more bottles before giving oils a try (also I have no space for more paints).

I'm at the point where I'm phasing out my acrylics, but am suffering from 'paint guilt' as I look at all these cool colors I got for various color tests/projects. They sit taunting me, begging me to incorporate them into something....

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



lilljonas posted:

Would it be worth the extra hassle to make slottsbase tabs, or is it fine to just do integrated bases?

I don't think people have strong feelings either way - I'd say do what's going to cause you the least trouble.

If you do go tabs, please make sure they're not too fat to fit the ubiquitous GW base.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


what is marco saying at the start of all his videos

hello guys! welcome back to ??????????????????????????? it's marco here

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Not/Just/Mecha it's his company name (hence MarcoFrisoniNJM)

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Thanks friend, that makes sense

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Electric Hobo posted:

Odourless thinner will still fry your brain, you just can't smell it.

Alright, with the amount of thinner you'd use for stuff like oil washes and blending is an open window with a floor fan blowing across my workspace good enough? I don't know how much it offgasses while drying either.

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.




After painting the first one I started three at once, and immediately made myself nervous that I couldn't match the first - they look so different in-progress - but they all look pretty drat close! I'm pleased. This was fun!

As I work my way through the tactical squad, the next up is the helmet-less Sergeant... so I'm going to maybe practice skin tones on some of the heads I didn't assemble, first.

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Aug 9, 2021

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
I've mainly been using old Citadel paints I had from about 7-8 years ago since getting back into painting minis (It was the old space marine starter kit that came with a brush, clippers, and 9 paints). I've added a few staples to the mix (a couple washes I was missing and a base paint or two), but I'm finding my paint selection quite limited as I'm starting to look at painting a whole army and some other cool minis I have on hand.

As I'm looking at the Vallejo and Citadel paints out there, there's just so much stuff that I'm finding it hard to decide what would actually be best for expanding my paint collection that will give me the most bang for buck, and I'm finding it difficult to determine what the different paint 'types' actually do outside of Citadel Bases and Washes. I see there's a lot of Vallejo sets of 8/16 paints out there that seem good value for money, but I'm not sure what type of paint I'm actually getting (base, wash, ink, glaze, etc.).

Would love some advice on a good starter set of paints to pick-up, or failing that a little bit more information about what the different types of paint actually do in the citadel and vallejo lines.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Get the Vallejo Model Color Basic starter set imo. Citadel paints have slightly better pigments but way worse bottles and are more expensive. Not worth it imo.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

PotatoManJack posted:

I've mainly been using old Citadel paints I had from about 7-8 years ago since getting back into painting minis (It was the old space marine starter kit that came with a brush, clippers, and 9 paints). I've added a few staples to the mix (a couple washes I was missing and a base paint or two), but I'm finding my paint selection quite limited as I'm starting to look at painting a whole army and some other cool minis I have on hand.

As I'm looking at the Vallejo and Citadel paints out there, there's just so much stuff that I'm finding it hard to decide what would actually be best for expanding my paint collection that will give me the most bang for buck, and I'm finding it difficult to determine what the different paint 'types' actually do outside of Citadel Bases and Washes. I see there's a lot of Vallejo sets of 8/16 paints out there that seem good value for money, but I'm not sure what type of paint I'm actually getting (base, wash, ink, glaze, etc.).

Would love some advice on a good starter set of paints to pick-up, or failing that a little bit more information about what the different types of paint actually do in the citadel and vallejo lines.

If you already have 9 paints + "a few staples", then I kind of feel most starter paint sets will be something of a waste; They generally arent much cheaper than buying the constituent parts seperately, so if there are 2-3 colours duplicated which you dont need then they become an iffy value prospect. At that point you are probably going to be cheaper buying the colours you need.

More or less any brand of miniature paint will do the job absolutely fine. My own paint collection is a mix of Citadel, Army Painter, Vallejo, C'oat D'Arms and Gamescraft, just depending what shop was handy when I needed a particular colour. They all have good paints in their ranges, and others I'm not so in love with. As to what type of paint you are actually getting, most of it is just paint. Unless it specifies "ink" or "wash" (army painter calls theirs "tones"), "airbrush paint" or "glaze", its generally just general purpose paint. Thin it to your desired consistency for basecoating, or details, thin it more (and/or gently caress about with specialist mediums) to make a glaze or a wash.

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


PotatoManJack posted:

Would love some advice on a good starter set of paints to pick-up, or failing that a little bit more information about what the different types of paint actually do in the citadel and vallejo lines.

I really wanted dropper bottles instead of pots, so I skipped Citadel when I bought into the hobby a few weeks back.

I bought this 16-bottle starter box from Vallejo specifically intended for mini painting, and they've worked great so far. They'd be what Citadel calls base and layer paints. For washes, I picked up the Army Painter quickshade wash set. I've only used the Dark Tone and Strong Tone so far (black and brown), but they've worked very well to shade in the recesses. I've read that Army Painter paints themselves can be inconsistent, but haven't heard anything suggesting the washes are. They are apparently a little more viscous than the Citadel washes, so I just dilute them a little bit.

With that said, I'm not at all knowledgeable enough to defend my opinions - this was just the result of my "what should I get to get started on this?" quest. And they've been good so far! The space marines up there are a result.

EDIT: Oh, and this Vallejo mud and grass paint worked great for the bases. It's like...paint, mixed with fibers that look kinda like trampled grass. Painted it on at the end, then drybrushed it with Goblin Green.

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Aug 6, 2021

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
So, this is the first Games Workshop mini I ever painted (and the second mini I ever painted ever):


I don't know if I got it right in August 2002, but it was probably pretty close. So, since it's been about a year and a half since I started painting in earnest again; and since these old warriors' 20th anniversary is coming up pretty soon, I figured: Why not paint one of the old metal Necrons I still have lying around?

I also wanted to try doing sourced lighting without any drybrushing, and I think I was pretty successful. I maybe went a little too heavy on the counter-shading, but I think it's only really noticeable if you look at the mini from the left side.



This was fun. I'm tempted to paint more.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

The new paintjob is great but the old color scheme is way better because it looks like those cheap faux onyx and gold statues of egyptian gods you see at every new age shop

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
WIP on a 30k homunculus



Eej posted:

Alright, with the amount of thinner you'd use for stuff like oil washes and blending is an open window with a floor fan blowing across my workspace good enough? I don't know how much it offgasses while drying either.

it would be fine, I used to do it in a bedroom with a respirator and a fan with regular spirit

just don't use terps, too harsh

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


gently caress up an eye? Pop a laser on that baby. Just like real life.



Spent way too long doing it, but I'm happy with the results. I'll probably never be able to repeat the gritting teeth. It's too bad I glued a head onto the body first, this was just the practice run but it was a hell of a lot easier than painting one already attached. I doubt I could crank the current head off, it's plastic-glued.

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Aug 9, 2021

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Eej posted:

Alright, with the amount of thinner you'd use for stuff like oil washes and blending is an open window with a floor fan blowing across my workspace good enough? I don't know how much it offgasses while drying either.
The mini and some of the paint will be pretty close to your face, so I use a respirator and open a window just so the fumes doesn't build up.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Hmm my painting spot is pretty much in an open part of my apartment and I got two cats that like to roam about so seems like a lot of hassle. I guess if I wanna play around with oils I can do it en plein air on the patio.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Silhouette posted:

the old color scheme is way better because it looks like those cheap faux onyx and gold statues of egyptian gods you see at every new age shop

I hadn't made that connection, that's wonderful. :allears:

I have four more warriors, a half-dozen (3 NIB) Immortals, and a trio of OG Destroyers I can try to modernize that scheme on.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

"table ready" represents a huge improvement in my case

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...
I've finished up a few plague marines for my Dusk Raiders force over the past week or so:


Every batch of these guys I push the grime and rust a little bit more, every time I hit a point about 75% through where I think I overdid it, and every time they end up looking great. Hooray for Nurgle!

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Order your PPE from not-Amazon, you do NOT want a knockoff organic solvents filter.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/7502/6827884

I believe you want the 6001 cartridges with that, someone check me on that (because I'm using those !)

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Giant Ethicist posted:

I've finished up a few plague marines for my Dusk Raiders force over the past week or so:


Every batch of these guys I push the grime and rust a little bit more, every time I hit a point about 75% through where I think I overdid it, and every time they end up looking great. Hooray for Nurgle!

These are great. Hooray for Nurgle!

Squiggle
Sep 29, 2002

I don't think she likes the special sauce, Rick.


That's the sergeant! A lot of first victories on this guy - faces, fabric, transfers, and a tiny bit of freehand. The banner was harrowing to do.


And with that...I was about to say that I have my first viable tabletop unit painted, but I don't think a 5-man squad is allowed to have two special weapons. Whatever - they're done, they look cool, and I never intended to actually play anyway.



punishedkissinger posted:

"table ready" represents a huge improvement in my case



Man, those bases look great - I've been afraid to move past "drybrushing over environment paint." I always wonder how does the grass stand up, is that just...precision placement?

Squiggle fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Aug 7, 2021

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Squiggle posted:

Man, those bases look great - I've been afraid to move past "drybrushing over environment paint." I always wonder how does the grass stand up, is that just...precision placement?

thanks! i used heavy globs of PVA with 4mm grass applied with pinched fingers. I just blew on them to align them after, the used tweezers to clean.

i have a static grass applicator but its way too big for getting into these bases.

Sonderval
Sep 10, 2011
3rd Warlord done, one Reaver to go.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013


If you're not striving to improve, you'll end up going backwards.
Started painting my Orgroid Thaumaturge today. First time attempting to do dry brushing (it owns by the way.)

Have made a decent start with the flesh but am very quickly running out of ideas as to how to do the gradients.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Painted some bronze Stormcast Eternals. I'm not sure if white was the 'correct' robe color (a deep red probably would've looked nicer with the bronze), but it was good practice and I don't regret it. The guys with helmets got a little of my custom patina wash under their eyes like they've been crying, and some trace amounts of patina on their shoulders, but otherwise they're pristine.





Ask not for whom the Sigmarines weep, tiny robot. They weep for thee.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I really like the blue/gray you did for the robes. Is the white actually a pure white at all or a trick of the color palette?

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PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Only at the highest points, mostly it's a very light blue-white.

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