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Previous posters warning about grades being subjective and what not withstanding, recording what you've been doing over time can be useful for seeing long term trends and serve as a useful reference point for when you pick back up some aspect of training that you had previously stopped (example: added weight in hang boarding) There are a few phone apps that let you record what you've been climbing and let you track overtime. Unfortunately for this post, I'm blanking on them as I don't use any of them. I've tried a mix of ways of tracking what I do and haven't really locked down something that I'm consistent with. I track my hang boarding mostly using Google Keep on my phone and just jot down the date and what I did that day. I find it super useful to write down how much weight I'm adding, what grips I've done, and a subjective rating of how hard I'm trying. For boulders and route climbing, I either record in another Keep note on my phone what I've done or track it in a paper notebook. I tend to like the paper notebook better. I think it is motivating to be able to flip back a year or two and see what has changed since then. Progress can be slow and hard to feel but seeing old records and realizing "oh yeah, v7 (at this particular gym) used to feel impossible but now I'm able to project and complete them" is a good feeling. Part of the benefit of recording what you've done is simply taking the time to reflect on your session. What felt hard, what was easy, what did you learn, what should you try next time? I've found thinking about questions like that to be useful.
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Aug 8, 2021 17:34
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If your gym works with it, Kaya.
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Aug 8, 2021 17:43
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Climbing adjacent: i summited a mountain last weekend and it was amazing. Non technical mountain but a loving hell of a hike. South Sister, 10,500 ft, 1 mile of elevation gain over 6 miles, about a third of it scree. Climbing related: I hurt my big toe pretty bad because I was jamming my foot forward to compensate for a blister. It's still a bit sore and the nailbed is turning grey, so I think I'm gonna lose the nail  Anyone lost a big toenail before? Can one climb with a recovering toenail? Tape it?? e: obligatory summit pic w/ summit lunch 
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Aug 8, 2021 18:36
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alnilam posted:Climbing adjacent: i summited a mountain last weekend and it was amazing. Non technical mountain but a loving hell of a hike. South Sister, 10,500 ft, 1 mile of elevation gain over 6 miles, about a third of it scree. I've lost several toenails over the years (distance running mangles mine sometimes) and climbed through all of them. It's painful when they're badly bruised but other than pain it doesn't affect your climbing. Once they fall off, it's totally fine.
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Aug 8, 2021 19:15
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I didn't full-on lose a nail, but I had a recurring ingrown nail in my big toe so the doctor treated the root with acid to prevent it from regrowing. Then in the future a girlfriend stepped on my bare foot with her boot and half ripped the nail out. Went to the doctor and they just bandaged it up and I kinda never got it taken care of after that so I've only got like half a nail but it doesn't cause me any issues.
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Aug 8, 2021 19:17
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chami posted:If your gym works with it, Kaya. I tried using it, but found it tedious, especially "navagating" the gym in the app to select the climb everytime. I really should get into the habit though since it's probably one of the easiest way to make sure you note everything and can compare things more easily. I either am stupid and don't note anything or use a notebook these days. I just feel like I'm trying to hard to note stuff when I climb with people and I've been climbing with friends most of the time for the past few months. It's also a pain to analyze stuff to see progress VS an app.
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Aug 8, 2021 20:08
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Parappa the Dapper posted:How do folks itt keep track of their progress/sessions? When I cycled I'd use Strava but there doesn't seem to be a passive recording device like a Garmin GPS equivalent for climbing. My progress tracking has usually been, "Whelp I did V4 last time, guess I'll try harder?" The Crimpd app is nice for hangboarding, board training and logging set workouts prescribed in the app. I dont ever log gym climbs, in my experience they dont track well to anything else.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:00
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Juche Couture posted:I started climbing about 2 months ago now, my local gyms great (and open late) but man, Im finding the jump from the V1-3 to the V2-4 circuit enormous. I finally managed this one today, which I think is meant to be the easiest of the circuit Props. Stanage is gritstone Mecca. If you're living in that area, there are super-strong climbing communities based around Manchester, Sheffield and Birmingham. Look for clubs advertising in your local wall if you want to get involved. I had my first indoor bouldering session in aaages at the Climbing Works in Sheffield yesterday. Fingertips and hamstrings hurt now. I think I need to accept Yoga into my life.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:35
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Augster posted:My birthday's in a couple of weeks so I was thinking of going out to the NRG for the weekend and doing a climbing challenge: using my guidebook's star ratings, I'll collect 30 stars of trad and 30 for sport, and get 30 V-grades worth of boulders over 3 days. I've tallied up the amount of climbing I'd have to do and while it's more than I've yet done in a day, it seems within my capabilities and more fun than a sufferfest like climbing 30 pitches in a day or something. Anyone ever done a challenge like this before? So this went well. I feel completely wrecked but managed to push through to the end. One of the last routes was a one-star 5.6 and man, 5.6 has never felt so hard as it did then.
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Aug 9, 2021 03:04
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Pretty thrilled that my bouldering gym's open again, I've managed to go about 4 times already  Less thrilling: I fell off my bike a couple months ago and injured my shoulder and wrist. Lots of awkward positions where my wrist can't bear my weight, and I can only do so much climbing in general before it hurts too much to continue. Still, it seems to be improving (slowly)!
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Aug 13, 2021 23:35
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Can anyone help identify part of a costume? It looks like it might be a repurposed climbing harness of some kind. Im looking for an exact match, its not Yates or Petzl I think. Anyone recognise it?
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Aug 14, 2021 08:55
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Thats not part of a climbing harness. Their gloves have an extra set of tacticool knuckle covers at the wrists 
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Aug 14, 2021 11:08
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The gloves are already identified, theyre an off the shelf item. Its the webbing hardware Im trying to track down. Yates and Petzl are similar but not the same. In particular the Triangle shaped swivel buckle thing.
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Aug 14, 2021 12:46
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I dont think I have ever seen a climbing harness with rivets in the webbing. The codpiece and hip pads dont look like anything climbing-related either. Youd probably be better served by buying 2 inch webbing and finding the buckles (or printing them) elsewhere.
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Aug 14, 2021 12:58
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Its the buckle Im trying to identify.
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Aug 14, 2021 13:07
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Rapulum_Dei posted:It’s the buckle I’m trying to identify. It looks like some type of cobra buckle, but not exactly like any one I've seen.
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Aug 14, 2021 13:13
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Ah, thats really helpful, thankyou.
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Aug 14, 2021 13:29
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That honestly looks more like car/airplane seat restraint adjacent stuff than climbing harness stuff. The rivets are probably just costume designer was here grace notes, much like the dip in whatever grime they used to age it.
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Aug 16, 2021 21:16
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Do you guys have any general suggestions on how to climb while cutting calories? I'm 5'8 and ~169 pounds. I've been eating about 1500-1700 calories per day since Friday and it's hard getting used to being hungry. I've definitely felt less energetic this week. I walk ~2-3 miles every day and I climbed Saturday and felt kinda weak. I went Sunday as well and felt better but also it was just a kinda chill session. I was thinking about climbing tonight after kickball as well. I know it's hard to train and cut intake, so other than "don't try hard things" is there anything I should be cautious about? I was thinking just try to focus on climbing easy problems as clean as possible, and hitting the autobelays
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Aug 18, 2021 21:15
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Give it two weeks and your appetite will shift a bit. Also drink a ton of fluids. If you're hungry but it's not an intended meal time, drink a liter of water or something zero calorie. Your metabolism should adjust and climbing should at least remain mostly plateaued from my experience.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:29
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Rest more than you think you need between efforts and make sure youre getting enough sleep.
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Aug 18, 2021 22:20
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Hydrating is definitely one of the few things I do do well  Sleep... less so lately...
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Aug 19, 2021 01:38
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Eat before you climb, preferably carbs. You can do the same for any exercise.
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Aug 19, 2021 05:22
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You are much more likely to pick up injuries on a calory deficit. It's a good time to shift gears to volume rather than pushing your top grade
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Aug 19, 2021 09:56
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Yeah, seconding drinking water and the fact that you body adjusts to being hungry. I'm also trying to drop a little weight in my effort to push my grade a little and had a couple of weeks during spring where I cut back on the caloric intake. After being hungry for a couple of days I just get used to it. It's not dangerous to feel hungry, more of a mental thing perhaps. Only thing to watch out for is to eat enough the days you climb hard I guess. In related climbing news I finished my norwegian grade 7(5.11c-ish), had two amazing climbs on the nearest "big wall" (about 12 pitches) and in general felt pretty good on all my other projects even though I didn't finish them. Most of the summer rained away but all in all a good outdoor season so far!
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Aug 19, 2021 11:07
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Here's a couple of photos, mostly from the 12 pitch route. Last couple of pics are from a superb fingercrack about 30 mins from my house. https://i.imgur.com/2OOD6AU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YFjfeVv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ArErWOx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uKbygIv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/OoVIyla.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1UlpSYk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/j6iSwKo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EHlsQts.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wJEQc9R.jpg Edit: uh, how do you embed again? beat9 fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 11:45
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beat9 posted:Here's a couple of photos, mostly from the 12 pitch route. Last couple of pics are from a superb fingercrack about 30 mins from my house. Looks fun as hell!
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Aug 19, 2021 14:53
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So jealous of you multipitch guys If it wasn't for my 3 young kids I'd already be into that. Until then I'll keep working on learning and getting stronger so I can multipitch like a maniac once they are slightly older and getting out for a full day (or two) is easier.
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Aug 19, 2021 14:55
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Yeah that 12-pitch route is a doozy. First time we took 14.5 hours car to car, 12 hours on the wall. This last time we got it down to about 10 hours door to door. But you do need a whole day for it. There's an even longer one literaly behind my house that I've been eyeing up lately but it's much harder and would probably require spending the night on the wall depending on how good/fast you are. Often the walk down is also a couple of hours at least. When your kids get older you can just bring them along!
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Aug 19, 2021 16:30
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I just started bouldering again after a very, very long break and have a few bouldering questions! Two sort of mild injury related ones: 1- sometimes my right wrist will hurt during climbing/after. Ive been doing wrist stretches (I think intended to avoid carpal tunnel) and this seems to help, but wondering if this is common enough that there are specific things I should be doing? 2- the skin on my hands seems to be my big barrier right now, Ive been occasionally getting skin scraped off enough Ive got to stop. Ive mostly just been waiting ~2 days and using a bandaid next time, and am also trying to be more conscious about not scrabbling for holds when I gently caress up (which seemed to be when my hand would get messed up usually). Is this about par for the course? Also if so, are there especially sticky bandaid brands which would be recommended? Also, I should probably get climbing shoes to start avoiding rental fees. Are there specific better brands to look for (for someone with narrow feet), or am I probably fine with whatever fits in the store? Lastly, is there a good resource to read/watch re: climbing form/technique tips? Ive been picking some up just from watching/talking to people, but wondering if theres a recommended source. Ty for any advice on the above! Have really been enjoying climbing again.
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Aug 20, 2021 02:56
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tildes posted:I just started bouldering again after a very, very long break and have a few bouldering questions! I dunno about your wrist thing other than if it hurts, stop If I get a flapper or cut my finger with a dull bread knife last weekend while trying to open the tube that weed comes in at the weed store, I will usually use sport tape to cover it while climbing. As your skin gets tougher, it'll happen less. Buy the shoes that fit you, basically. Don't worry about aggressively downsizing or anything like that for now, you want something that won't make you miserable. I think that the "Movement for Climbers" youtube channel has some really helpful stuff that isn't available in the "Top 10 tips for beginner climbers" lists. Also Neil Greshams Masterclass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk
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Aug 20, 2021 15:15
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Band aid brand "Tough Strips" are the best if you want really strong adhesive. They're going to come off anyway though if you sweat a lot. Your skin will toughen up with time, but also as you get stronger and start bouldering harder routes you'll get less chewed up, paradoxically.
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Aug 20, 2021 15:51
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Do antagonistic workouts to help your wrist, and body. Push-ups, bench, shoulder press If you explain the pain and source more descriptively we can target more specific prophylactic exercises and suggestions
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Aug 20, 2021 16:07
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Sab669 posted:Do you guys have any general suggestions on how to climb while cutting calories? Find a gym or health center in your area with registered dietitians on staff and talk to one of them about your goals and your diet. My fianc does that for work and she's always talking about clients that come in trying to cut calories from their diets while maintaining regular workouts and they don't end up eating enough to make the workouts effective. Don't be that guy. Talk to someone who knows what they are doing so you don't feel like crap from not eating enough.
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Aug 20, 2021 18:08
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Sab669 posted:Do you guys have any general suggestions on how to climb while cutting calories? if you lose weight slower you will suffer fewer side effects at the cost if it being longer. if you wanna keep training hard, try that
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Aug 20, 2021 20:27
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Thank you for all the tips and suggestions, I really appreciate it! The bandaid + movement tips are super helpful, looking forward to trying these out more soon. Ubiquitus posted:Do antagonistic workouts to help your wrist, and body. Push-ups, bench, shoulder press The pain is not really present normally, unless I use my other hand to push the wrist all the way down or up. Side to side is generally fine. I actually also notice the pain when doing pushups, but not when doing bench/shoulder press/rows/pull ups/any of the other exercises in my routine. I also notice it sometimes when I am attempting difficult routes -- I will work on being a bit more conscious about when it is flaring up. It's a somewhat sharp pain more than an ache, and usually stops after I stop doing whatever caused it pain, but sometimes it will persist a bit after. Usually once it has happened once in a session it is more likely to happen again later on. I've been doing a 3/week lifting routine for awhile which includes bench and shoulder presses, but got a bit lazy about it the past month or two, so I'll be sure to keep that up more carefully. I guess I could always just schedule a checking with a doctor on this, it felt excessive but maybe better safe than sorry given that I've got good insurance. E: also my elbow joint is hurting/feeling tight. Probably should just check in w a doctor and see whats up/maybe climb a bit less often than the 4/wk I have been doing. tildes fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 20, 2021 23:40
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Rest is good isn't it? I bouldered 3 times last week in-between 3 13 hour shifts and I felt like crap, basically, and I couldn't make progress. I did absolutely nothing yesterday and in today's session I knocked out 5 or 6 hard climbs I simply couldn't start last time. The shifts seem to impair my recovery (no brainer really) so adding in a day of nothing aside from a gentle cycle really paid off.
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Aug 23, 2021 14:02
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Shelvocke posted:Rest is good isn't it? I bouldered 3 times last week in-between 3 13 hour shifts and I felt like crap, basically, and I couldn't make progress. I did absolutely nothing yesterday and in today's session I knocked out 5 or 6 hard climbs I simply couldn't start last time. Those days where everything just feels hard happen - I refer to them as "high gravity" days, and yeah rest helps a ton.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:28
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You know sometimes you wonder if you're getting better and making progress because you seem to be doing about the same grades in the gym. But then you get outdoors on routes you attempted in better conditions last season and notice that you're way better than you used to. This sport is fun
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Aug 25, 2021 02:52
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I've just continually been getting my rear end kicked by everything at this new crag I've been going to this summer. Theoretically I can start going to my old, closer crag that I like more in Canada now but I don't feel like getting tested every time I wanna go.
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Aug 25, 2021 03:03
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