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Yeah if those are the same ones I got for my old car, they're affordable and have great output even stock. And you can of course upgrade to whatever bulb you want that fits. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G72SKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1  
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Jul 13, 2020 21:11
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LloydDobler posted:Yeah if those are the same ones I got for my old car, they're affordable and have great output even stock. And you can of course upgrade to whatever bulb you want that fits. Them's the ones. I wish they were a little more convex, but that's just a goofy preference thing. It will be nice to have a choice beyond "crap-rear end sealed beams or slightly less crap-rear end sealed beams".
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Jul 13, 2020 21:53
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It was a pretty nice day out and I had the day off so I figured 'hey what the gently caress' and went out to maybe finish this stupid wiring project. The only things really left were the courtesy lights so I figured I could bang those out and be done. Passenger side went well enough - Mount the footwell light under the dash, pass the bullet connector through the hole for the door plunger, plug it in, screw the plunger in, and connect it to the harness. Tuck the wires up above the glovebox and that side's done. Driver side was a little more involved - Mount the light, pass the bullet connector through the hole, snip it off, terminate it with a female spade connector, plug that into the plunger, screw it in, and connect it t- wait. The harness that should be there for the driver side light harness has apparently hosed off. Did I snip it off like a moron? Highly doubtful. Did I tuck it away so well when I installed the dash harness that I can no longer find it in a finite space? Possible I guess. Was it never loving there to begin with? Also possible I suppose. After spending way too much time staring at the underside of my dash and nearly turning into a rage monster at the sheer frustration of this (the LAST loving STEP), I collected my thoughts a bit and went back to the paper wiring diagrams. For cars with console gauges, there's a harness for the console lights that are on the courtesy light circuit. I was able to use that harness, terminate a couple female spade ends and a plastic plug and run that back over to the door plunger/light harness. That should be everything. I should be able to get the battery back in it (I need to just buy a new battery) and see if I actually did all this right. If all goes according to plan, I just need to do a little tidying up under the hood and I can call the wiring done. I want to move the battery to the trunk, but that's more of a 'when I get to it' project. I want to try to bend up a torsion rod for the trunk to replace the one that broke as well. Again, when I get to it. But with the wiring done... Soon... 
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Sep 7, 2020 21:27
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Alright, so I think I'm done with the wiring now. Still want to move the battery, but whatever. That'll happen when it happens. Picked up some wrap/loom/whatever you want to call it a little while back and have just been waiting for the motivation to strike to go do it. This weekend was super nice (but super humid, god drat) so I figured I'd go bang it out. I even took pictures this time! Bought 25 feet (7.6m) of this stuff and ended up using all but about 4 feet. Pretty well estimated I think. I was gonna get some poo poo from wirecare.com but ended up picking up this stuff from Amazon and saved a few bucks. It's sold as 3/8" tubing but since it's split, that's more of a suggestion. I've got it pretty much maxed out in a couple places in the engine bay.  Started in the trunk and worked my way forward. Used some nice small zip ties to secure the ends and anchor it where I could. Wiring for the tail lights is tucked up and away and then it follows the factory path up and around until it dives down behind the rear seat. That light blue wire in the second picture is for a third brake light if I ever decide to install one. And yes, all zips were snipped off with flush cutters.   With the trunk buttoned up, I moved up to the engine bay. Big bundle running from the firewall forward to the rad support and then across to the passenger lights and battery and then another big bundle running from the firewall junction across the firewall to the wiper motor, coil, resistor, and then down to the starter. That lone orange wire runs over to the heater but I thought it'd be a bit silly to waste the wrap on one wire. I still could I guess, but it doesn't bother me. I'm happy with this.  And with all that done, I figured I'd try to bend up a trunk torsion rod to replace the one that snapped. I picked up a 6 foot 5/16" steel rod a week or so ago and with the help of a propane torch (note to self: buy a loving MAPP torch), a vise, and a BFH, I turned it into this:  Top is factory and bottom is the replacement. Fingers crossed that it works, but I guess we'll see. I didn't feel like wrestling with it today so I'll wait on that. Here's the original snapped off end that warranted the replacement:  So that's that for this weekend. I could put the battery back on the charger to see what kind of juice it's got left but that thing's such a shitpile battery that's already been run flat more than once so I'll probably just go buy a new one here soon. Now I need to call the machine shop to get some prices...
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Nov 8, 2020 22:50
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I really like that loom stuff too, looks very clean and easy to put on, plus I don't anticipate it falling apart like thr parts store plastic garbage.
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Nov 8, 2020 23:53
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Yup, it's so much easier to work with than the corrugated poo poo.
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Nov 9, 2020 03:19
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 And nary a prop-rod to be seen! Got my DIY torsion rod in place and it actually works! I was just a hair short so I had to get the Dremel and the mini death wheel out for a little bit of adjustment, but it was a lot easier getting in than I thought it would be. I'm glad I still had the other one to look at for reference or I never would have figured out how all the little bends and ends clip in. Need to order some front arm rests so I can button up the interior and then I think I may call the machine shop this week to ask about pricing for work on the LQ4 block that's been taking up space for too drat long. I'm thinking about SBC orange for engine paint when it comes to that. Thoughts from the audience?
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Nov 22, 2020 20:28
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I'm lame so like a cast iron grey, probably.
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Nov 22, 2020 20:32
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I prefer black, like GM started doing on later motors, but there's nothing wrong with Chevy Orange. I think the LSX even comes that way. I just personally think that a sleek modern motor looks kinda weird that way. If you're gonna stick a distributor and carburetor on it, I think orange would look appropriate. But I hope you're not.
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Nov 22, 2020 20:40
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I like the post -77 blue, actually. But the orange is a close second.
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Nov 22, 2020 21:44
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An orange ls motor looks hot with the proper valve covers.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:46
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I'm partial to orange so yeah.
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Nov 23, 2020 00:11
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Orange is always a good complement to green.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:18
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Elmnt80 posted:An orange ls motor looks hot with the proper valve covers. I got plans on leaving the aluminum heads bare and topping them with black wrinkle covers.
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Nov 23, 2020 03:23
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Detroit Green (ugh it's super hard to find anymore)
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Nov 25, 2020 18:20
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Turbo Fondant posted:Detroit Green (ugh it's super hard to find anymore) Alpine Green. Paint anything that for and it'll start seeping oil. Duplicolor makes it in engine enamel.
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Nov 26, 2020 13:18
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WE GOT ARMRESTS! loving finally, right? I bought the pads forever ago but they didn't actually fit on the factory bases. Pretty lame. They were pretty chewed up anyway regardless of the new black paint so I bought new bases from the same manufacturer of the pads. Free shipping coupon for Black Friday/Cyber Monday. Winner. I also bought new door locks and an ignition so the key would match again. Yeah, I probably could have pulled the stuff out and had them re-keyed or just done it myself, but it's pretty cheap to just replace them and now everything is nice and new and smooth. The ignition must have been changed out at some point in the car as the key for that is different than the door key and those should both turn for the same key. Got the locks swapped out easily enough but didn't take any pictures. Guess I could have taken some to document the process, but you're not missing much. If any of you ever have to change door locks on an old Chevy in the future, I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is. Need to get a wheel puller and a lock plate tool so I can swap the ignition and then that's another thing to cross off the list. I emailed the machine shop last week about pricing for block work so hopefully they'll get back to me soon and maybe I'll go drop that off in the nearish future. Oh, and I snapped the arm off the passenger window crank because it was already cracked and I'm a loving ape.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:35
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Voicemail from the machine shop: they don't currently have a machinist on staff and the shop is closed until they get one. Crap.
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Dec 8, 2020 00:39
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Really more of a warehouse for fancy tools then.
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Dec 8, 2020 00:42
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how does a machine shop not have a machinist i guess im used to mom n pop operations where there are no actual front of house employees, its just the owner and maybe a couple others who do all the work and also ring sales up and answer phones and stuff weird as hell. guess thats 2020 in a nutshell what does the motor need? anything you can DIY?
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Dec 8, 2020 00:44
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Well it's a repair/towing joint with machine shop services, so they're still doing some stuff. There's another place not too far away that does similar work so I may shoot them an email to try to get some numbers from them. I figure I'll get the standard block cleanup hot tank, line hone, .030" over on the cylinders, and cam bearing installation. I've actually been to the other place and they've got some packages with all that poo poo included so I'll see what kind of prices they have. I'd like to start buying more engine parts next year. Got a couple more little things from my parents for an early Christmas like some gaskets, lifter retainers, galley plug, and a couple other things. Maybe I should start working out so I can move the block around when I finally take it to the shop 
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Dec 8, 2020 01:51
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Alright, so I've had this new ignition cylinder hanging out for a while but haven't put it in because I don't have a steering wheel puller or lock plate remover. I made it over to Harbor Freight yesterday (took the week off because gently caress it) and picked up the kit that has both. I figured this probably won't be the last time I pull this thing so there's not much sense in renting one when I can just add one to the collection for like 35 bucks. Took some pictures of the process in case anyone's curious what it takes to swap a classic GM ignition. Step one is pulling the steering wheel (or adapter in my case). This is pretty straight forward and I'm sure you guys are familiar with that process. 2 bolts, H-bar, tighten bolt, blah blah. Anyway, with the wheel out of the way, you're met with this:  Yank the 3 screws and you'll see the lock plate.  Here's where the lock plate removal tool comes in. Screw the main shaft onto the steering shaft, put the U-bar over that, then on goes the washer and nut.  Tighten down the nut and it will push the lock plate down into the column a bit to expose the lock ring. Use whatever combination of tools you have (screwdrivers, small pry bars, spring puller, etc.) and weasel that ring out of the groove and up the shaft.  Once the ring comes off, the lock plate can come off too, exposing the turn signal mechanism. Pull off the turn signal cancelling cam, pull the screw for the turn signal stalk and remove that, remove the hazard light knob, then remove the 3 screws that hold the turn signal guts to the column.  The turn signal guts don't need to come all the way out for this so you can just kind of wiggle them towards you and get them out of the way a bit. Up at the top near one of the screw holes, you'll see a couple slots. You'll need something real drat thin but still pretty stiff you jam in there. I had to grind down a small flat screwdriver a bit as it was too fat to get in there deep enough. There's a little catch on the ignition cylinder that you have to push in to remove it. It's hard to get a light on the right angle to see down into those slots, but I ended up getting lucky with the slot on the right. With the key in the 'run' position, the cylinder pulls right out once you get that catch shoved in correctly.   Once it's out, the new one just slams right in. Now the doors and ignition use the same key and all is right with the universe once again.  So did this little project really need to be done? No. But having 3 different keys for the car annoyed me from day one and now that's finally fixed. I'm gonna send an email to another machine shop and see what kind of numbers they've got for me. Maybe they'll actually have a machinist on the payroll to operate the levers and buttons.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:12
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I am now all the more glad that my C10 is the last generation that still had the key in the dash.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:48
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Yeah Jesus christ. The International just required me to unscrew the bezel and reach underneath and grab it. To be fair I'm lucky it has a key at all being a fancy farm tool. The Galaxie required a straightened paperclip and I'm surprised I could do it at all considering I didn't have a key. How would you rate that steering wheel puller? I think that job is in my very near future.
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Dec 29, 2020 22:13
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I'd rate the tool as perfectly adequate. My poo poo came apart pretty easily as I've pulled the wheel adapter and lock plate off before. The only real potential for failure is if your wheel absolutely does NOT want to come off and something goes fucky with the puller. It's got 4 different bolts for the puller so you should be covered there, but I don't know how many standards there are for those holes. The lock plate tool is pretty simple and there's not much that could really go wrong there with the exception of that main shaft not fitting the steering shaft. There's a metric and an SAE one in the kit.
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Dec 29, 2020 22:34
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Perfectly adequate is about the best possible rating for a Harbor Freight tool. I believe the levels range from "it killed me" to "never worked" "worked once" and "adequate but sloppy". It's for the Galaxie which I don't know if it has a lock and also just went on only a few steps ago in 1994. I still remember steering it with the vice grips. Should come off easily.
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Dec 29, 2020 22:47
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It's a pretty simple tool all things considered. Just screws and leverage. If you think you might need one more than once, go buy it. Don't forget your coupon and your mask  . And hey, maybe you'll be able to bail somebody out by loaning it to them. Always nice to be able to help out.
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Dec 30, 2020 02:01
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:It's a pretty simple tool all things considered. Just screws and leverage. If you think you might need one more than once, go buy it. Don't forget your coupon and your mask In what must be a new personal record I now own one. Having the HF on my commute is bad news. Or an amazing convenience. And now that you mention loaning I realize my neighbor mechanic almost certainly has one I could have borrowed.
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Dec 30, 2020 02:28
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StormDrain posted:In what must be a new personal record I now own one. Having the HF on my commute is bad news. Or an amazing convenience. And now that you mention loaning I realize my neighbor mechanic almost certainly has one I could have borrowed. Between the truck and the Galaxie, I think you'll be glad you bought it. 
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Dec 30, 2020 06:52
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Hmm... Hmmmm...  poo poo. Good news: new wiring harness installed by amateur did not burn the car to the ground. Bad news: this battery's hosed. Ugly(?) news: loving thing still won't crank in Park. Thought a new harness might alleviate that. Guess not. I'll type up a better post later. I'm too hot and tired to focus right now.
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Jul 18, 2021 22:24
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Neutral safety switch?
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Jul 19, 2021 16:18
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StormDrain posted:Neutral safety switch? Maybe? I dunno. I thought I replaced it with the harness but after looking over the instructions again apparently it didn't come with one after all. Eventually all this "Park" silliness will be going away altogether so I don't really care that much. So yeah, I decided (with some persuasion from the wife) that it was time to get back out there and get greasy. I've been loving with this battery for a while trying to bring it back to life with the charger. Didn't work. Did some mowing Sunday morning and charged the battery while I was taking care of that with plans to get it strapped back in the car and maybe make a little noise. Dropped the battery in, snugged down the cables, and started searching for smoke. Low general self-esteem isn't great for building confidence for major projects. Replacing wiring harnesses, for example. Luckily, no smoke! I wasn't super confident in this thing still having the juice to actually crank, but I had to try, you know? Jumped in and noticed the dome light wasn't on. Hm. Should have the juice for that. Hit the key anyway to a bunch of silence. Drop it into neutral (by feel - indicator is broken off) and try again. Still nothing. Crap. Grab the multimeter and start poking poo poo. Try the wire that should be running 12v into the fuse block. Nothing. gently caress. Alright, let's consult the instructions. Dug out the sheets that came with the harness and found the engine harness diagram. Fat red 12v wire comes out of the block, runs over and down towards the starter where it gets connected to a short brown wire that actually gets attached to the starter lug with the positive from the battery. Ok, tug the red wire a little bit and it just came right up in my hand what the gently caress. Alright, car up in the air so I can get under it and get eyes on the starter. Both ends of the red/brown wire connection are just dangling in the breeze. I'm guessing I ran the wire down there and just never plugged it in like a dumbass. Jammed them together and made sure the plug actually clicked. Gave a little tug and it seems happy. Double-check battery, double-check for smoke (still negative), jump back in. Dome light ON. Moment of truth. Turn the key - click. Neutral? Click. So it's trying to do something at least. Tells me my wires are probably going to the right place anyway. So I put the car back on the ground (who put all these various drips under my car? Rude) and pull the Mazda around to lend a hand. I let it jump for a few minutes and hit the key again. Clickety clickety clickety. The sad song of a weak-rear end battery. I'll be mooching my in-laws' Costco membership to pick up an Interstate in the very near future so hopefully that will bring some life back to this project. Sure would be neat. I do feel better about the success of the harness install since the battery had at least enough juice to light up some bulbs for me. Maybe I can get this stupid thing on the road here soon.
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Jul 19, 2021 22:04
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Amazing what a new battery will do, huh? Couple shots of Start Ya Bastard down its throat and some judicious pedal usage and it fired up. No real drama either. Some smoke from oil burning off the manifolds and some blue smokescreen from the party end but that's about it. Checked the battery when it was running and I'm looking at about 14.4 across the posts so it looks like my alternator is working too. Got lights and blinkers going as well so I'm feeling good about my wiring job. Wipers are trying to work with some assistance which is better than what they were doing before but I think I need to pull the wiper motor and have a look around. Junkyard e-fan hasn't kicked on yet but I don't know if it's actually gotten warm enough to test it. I may just put the mechanical back on and pull all that crap out. Dunno yet. Next step I guess is checking to see if it wants to go into gear. Maybe I'll give it a wash because it's a filthy little green piggy at the moment. Wonder if the local shop hired a machinist yet... Edit: no gears, need blood. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Aug 8, 2021 |
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Aug 8, 2021 16:55
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Blood good. 
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Aug 8, 2021 18:31
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Yessss. Did it move under it's own power?
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Aug 8, 2021 19:50
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Wrar posted:Yessss. Did it move under it's own power? It did. Pulled out and backed back in. I washed it while it was out but forgot to snap a pic. It's got a pretty serious stumble right off idle but I think it really just needs beat on a little bit. Hasn't run at all in a while, gas is old, blah blah blah. Italian tuneup would probably do it some good. I'm going to try to make it a point to run it pretty regularly now to keep that new battery lively. I've still got a few more 3-day weekends coming so I'd like to at least get it out in the street soonish. Gotta see if I can find that yellow pinstripe tape and do the passenger side wheels, too.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:42
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I love it. Absolutely beautiful. One of my favorite cars and my favorite body style of those cars. I’m smitten.
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Aug 9, 2021 02:46
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I'm going to try to make it a point to run it pretty regularly now to keep that new battery lively. Relying on regular starts and the alternator will just lead to ruining the new battery in my experience. At least until you are seasonally driving it. Also, hell yeah, great post! LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 21:04
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Can I get one cleaned car pic from the back and one from the side? And also three pics of the car from any direction? Also just a normal pic of the grill and hood and one where the hood is open? Can I get a pic of it driving? Seriously though I'm glad to see it going and hope the momentum continues.
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Aug 10, 2021 00:51
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| # ? May 16, 2024 21:18 |
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StormDrain posted:Can I get one cleaned car pic from the back and one from the side? And also three pics of the car from any direction? Also just a normal pic of the grill and hood and one where the hood is open? Can I get a pic of it driving? Who the gently caress am I, Ansel Adams? The momentum felt good. I'm pretty sure I had a smile on my face the whole time I was washing it. Like I said earlier, I got some more long weekends coming so I plan on spending some time out there with this thing. I'll see if I can't get it loosened up a bit and running a little better maybe. Maybe I'll take some more pictures, too.  Oh, heard back from the local shop and it turns out they sold off all their machine shop equipment and killed the service entirely. So that sucks. There's another joint a little farther away so I guess I'll be getting in their ear next.
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Aug 10, 2021 01:05
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