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I just setup remote access of my Blueiris system using zerotier and I'm super impressed. No poking holes in the firewall and everything is nice and fast. I'm using the Android client over 4g with only a single bar of signal on the phone and its still decent. The Blueiris Pc has a 1Gb fibre internet connection which of course doesn't hurt ! Zerotier is free which is nice. I followed this video which all worked for me without any dramas, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmqrK2Fomqw Next I'll probably add my home automation system to it as well - its Domoticz running on a Linux VM.
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Aug 7, 2021 14:18
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BigFactory posted:Is this a problem with every generation of nests? I have a first gen I’ve never had any issues with. Mine was a first generation which the replaced with something newer. Of course, this failure rate is well below 100%, or even 50% or they would have recalled all of these things by now. I don't know what the failure rate actually is, but it's definitely far from zero. I think the bulk of my issue isn't that it failed, but that they KNEW this was a typical failure mode and I still had to drag it out of support that this could be the problem.
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Aug 7, 2021 15:24
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Baconroll posted:I just setup remote access of my Blueiris system using zerotier and I'm super impressed. No poking holes in the firewall and everything is nice and fast. Thanks for this. I've got a blue iris instance at my shop but it's a pain to access remotely (I've been using RemotePC). I'll look into this.
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Aug 7, 2021 16:13
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Motronic posted:Mine was a first generation which the replaced with something newer. Of course, this failure rate is well below 100%, or even 50% or they would have recalled all of these things by now. I don't know what the failure rate actually is, but it's definitely far from zero. Any recommendations for a zwave (I.e. local only) thermostat? One unit, dual zone/dual thermostat system.
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Aug 8, 2021 04:10
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I don't know if it can do two zones, but I was pretty happy with my Radio Thermostat with a Z-Wave module. They make multiple models.
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Aug 8, 2021 04:35
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azurite posted:I don't know if it can do two zones, but I was pretty happy with my Radio Thermostat with a Z-Wave module. They make multiple models. I’ll have to do some research, each zone has it’s own thermostat, so I’m not 100% sure if I just need two single zone thermostats, two dual zone, etc.
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Aug 8, 2021 04:47
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blugu64 posted:I’ll have to do some research, each zone has it’s own thermostat, so I’m not 100% sure if I just need two single zone thermostats, two dual zone, etc. You almost definitely need two regular thermostats. The typical way multiple zones are set up is with a "zone controller" that expects a regular thermostat input for each zone and then it sorts out which baffles to open/close and to command heat or air to your equipment based on which stats are calling for what. The zwave stats I currently have are These GoControl things: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZIRV40K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I can't recommend them. They worked fine at first but after some upgrade or other Home Assistant can only read values from both of them. I no longer could actually change temp/modes. Excluded them, re-paired them......same thing. I just haven't bothered really digging in to figure it out.
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Aug 8, 2021 16:10
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Hello all, recently moved into a new-to-me home and got started playing around with Shelly's as my new light switch solution. I picked up a few 1s, 1Ls (few switch-loops without neutrals in my home), 2.5, and dimmers relays. Successfully set up a simple on/off 2-way switch with a 1 and connected to HA and Homekit no problem. Almost sold on this as my solution, but need to sort out one last thing. Dimmers. I want to be able to dim either through scenes/app and from a physical control. I'm having a hard time working out in my head how it'll work with a physical dimmer and wondering if I have to get specific dimmer switches for this to work. What's going through my head is that the physical dimmer control throttles the power going to the bulb/receptacle. So if that was left at say 30% and the app/scene instructed the switch to go to 100%, it'd only go to 100% of the 30%. If I set the scene/app to go to 30% it'll go to 30% of 30% (i.e. really low). Is this how they work? If so, I'm thinking a good solution would be to find a switch that doesn't have a dimmer slider, but is like an on/off that resets it's position to the middle every time and am hoping that I can set the Shelly to do an 'increase dim' with an up flick and 'decrease dim' with a down flick. That way they'd always be in unison. Bonus points if I can hold it up/down for a second and for dimming and quick flicks are on/off. Any thoughts on this? If the latter is required, any switches (preferably decora) to recommend that function like this?
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Aug 8, 2021 17:27
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Motronic posted:I can't recommend them. They worked fine at first but after some upgrade or other Home Assistant can only read values from both of them. I no longer could actually change temp/modes. Excluded them, re-paired them......same thing. I just haven't bothered really digging in to figure it out. For what it's worth, similar things kept happening to me, and I think it's HA and its Z-Wave stack just being weird. It split my thermostat into two entities which controlled the heating and cooling respectively. Wasn't too bad because you only have to switch between them a couple times a year, but still.
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Aug 8, 2021 20:43
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azurite posted:For what it's worth, similar things kept happening to me, and I think it's HA and its Z-Wave stack just being weird. It split my thermostat into two entities which controlled the heating and cooling respectively. Wasn't too bad because you only have to switch between them a couple times a year, but still. This is with the new zwave JS as well as the old stack. I had the same thing with them getting split into heat and cool, etc. I was hoping it was just these thermostats being bad or badly supported but it doesn't sound like it.
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Aug 8, 2021 20:47
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Motronic posted:This is with the new zwave JS as well as the old stack. I had the same thing with them getting split into heat and cool, etc. I was hoping it was just these thermostats being bad or badly supported but it doesn't sound like it. Bummer. I was running the old OpenZwave stuff before I moved. I haven't had the opportunity to set up HA with the new Zwave JS stuff yet. Was hoping it'd be somewhat better.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:01
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azurite posted:Bummer. I was running the old OpenZwave stuff before I moved. I haven't had the opportunity to set up HA with the new Zwave JS stuff yet. Was hoping it'd be somewhat better. It's a ton better, just not with this thermostat (or maybe thermostats in general). I even factory reset my zwave stick when I was making the stack switch. So I'm kinda out of ideas and feel like the effort of going through debug logs probably isn't even worth it. It's really disappointing because I don't do internet-tied things in my home automation so I'm not sure where to go on temp control. I had a bunch of potential automations I wanted to do with that.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:26
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I have homebridge set up for all my non-HomeKit devices. How much of a pain in the rear end is it to set up HA? I feel like it’s way more complicated, but also way more powerful.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:35
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:I have homebridge set up for all my non-HomeKit devices. How much of a pain in the rear end is it to set up HA? I feel like it’s way more complicated, but also way more powerful. It's not longer a dumpster fire to do a basic install, and most things are GUI-controlled, and there is a GUI-driven plug in system. It also has meaningful bad-upgrade recovery built into their underlying OS, and restoring from snapshots/backups actually just works. So from those standpoint it's not bad at all.....now. It was pretty bad before. Replicating your current automations obviously depends on what you've got going on to start with, but it shouldn't be too bad.
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Aug 8, 2021 21:38
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I could use a part number recommendation / search query suggestion -- looking for a plastic 'security system enclosure' to mount my Honeywell 5850C2W + a backup battery in, and contain all my wiring. That's a little module that converts wired sensors to wireless 5850-compatible signaling that I can then get hooked up to my Lyric. Metal enclosure is a no-go because it'll be a Faraday cage for the module in there. I've checked w/ Hammond Manufacturing and a few others, but I don't think an actual NEMA enclosure is what I need...
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Aug 9, 2021 05:37
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What size and what budget? Hoffman and Rittal are the go to for industrial, both make plastic/fiberglass enclosures. Not going to be cheap, but they'll be practically bulletproof for a residential application. Digikey has loads of options that are more like project boxes. Not sure if you need something that's like NEMA 4 rated for outdoor use or just something basic to keep dust out.
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Aug 9, 2021 13:17
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DaveSauce posted:What size and what budget? Hoffman and Rittal are the go to for industrial, both make plastic/fiberglass enclosures. Not going to be cheap, but they'll be practically bulletproof for a residential application. Maybe 8" x 10" roughly? This is the unit that goes inside of the box, and then just need room for wiring and a single SLA battery. Less than $100 would be great -- I don't need an actual NEMA-rating, just something to keep dust out as it'll be in my garage next to water heater and such.
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Aug 9, 2021 16:08
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Motronic posted:It's not longer a dumpster fire to do a basic install, and most things are GUI-controlled, and there is a GUI-driven plug in system. It also has meaningful bad-upgrade recovery built into their underlying OS, and restoring from snapshots/backups actually just works. So from those standpoint it's not bad at all.....now. It was pretty bad before. Great thanks. Maybe I’ll give it a look. Was not looking forward to setting it up since homebridge is super easy.
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Aug 9, 2021 16:57
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movax posted:Maybe 8" x 10" roughly? This is the unit that goes inside of the box, and then just need room for wiring and a single SLA battery. Less than $100 would be great -- I don't need an actual NEMA-rating, just something to keep dust out as it'll be in my garage next to water heater and such. Most of my experience is with industrial stuff, most of which is likely overkill. That said, maybe give Automation Direct a shot. Looking quickly, they seem to have several polycarbonate options in the 10x8-ish range (various depths available) that are around $100 or less. Subpanels are typically extra, though, so if you need one make sure to check and order if necessary. I remembered that Fibox is a manufacturer that specializes in non-metallic enclosures. Not sure who sells them, but it's an option. All that said, I'd still take a look at Digikey. Might take a bit to narrow it down, but they'll have tons of options and one of them is bound to be suitable. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 18:40
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movax posted:I could use a part number recommendation / search query suggestion -- looking for a plastic 'security system enclosure' to mount my Honeywell 5850C2W + a backup battery in, and contain all my wiring. That's a little module that converts wired sensors to wireless 5850-compatible signaling that I can then get hooked up to my Lyric. Metal enclosure is a no-go because it'll be a Faraday cage for the module in there. Leviton and Legrand both make plastic Structured Media Center (SMC) enclosures specifically made to allow wireless communications. Some are wall mount and in-wall. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4TBNZQ/ref=twister_B07YXJBQL4 https://www.amazon.com/Q-ENP3050-NA-Plastic-Media-Enclosure/dp/B08TRLGS1Y/
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Aug 9, 2021 21:02
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I'm thinking of putting in a security system at some point, and I'd want it to run entirely on-premises. Who makes decent cameras that aren't tied to a bunch of cloud/subscription nonsense? would it be a terrible idea to put a PoE switch in the attic and use that as a base point for the cameras that would be mounted higher up? or is it generally easier to go through the basement and just go up at the specific points that are needed?
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Aug 10, 2021 02:22
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Paul MaudDib posted:I'm thinking of putting in a security system at some point, and I'd want it to run entirely on-premises. Who makes decent cameras that aren't tied to a bunch of cloud/subscription nonsense? Take your pick, but new network savvy. I have a shiut load of Reolinks but they are NOT allowed to touch the internet. I'm using Blue Iris to record/view and it has one NIC on their jailed VLAN and one in a VLAN I actually use to interact with it. Paul MaudDib posted:would it be a terrible idea to put a PoE switch in the attic and use that as a base point for the cameras that would be mounted higher up? or is it generally easier to go through the basement and just go up at the specific points that are needed? This is deeply dependent on your home construction and climate. PoE switch in a proper attic anywhere it gets hot sounds like a frequent failure point. If that's the easy place to cable from a PoE switch in a second floor closet that has a bunch of cable going to the attis sounds like a much better plan, and probably only a few feet away.
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Aug 10, 2021 02:45
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I've been putting together a bunch of ZigBee based automations using the Aqara contact sensors and stuff. I've also set up water leak sensors everywhere which is also sweet and cool. Any other things I should look at adding to my setup? Is there such thing as a gas leak detector?
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Aug 10, 2021 02:55
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Gyshall posted:I've been putting together a bunch of ZigBee based automations using the Aqara contact sensors and stuff. I've also set up water leak sensors everywhere which is also sweet and cool. First Alert makes a traditional Fire/co alarm. It’s ZWave though, works good enough for me. No cloud BS, local only.
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Aug 10, 2021 04:08
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I'm hoping to attach my pellet stove's thermostat hookup to something can talk to home assistant instead. Then home assistant could turn it on or off based on the main thermostat in the room and whatever other factors I decide. So I'm looking for a device that: - has a physical button/switch so it can be activated manually - will work when Home Assistant is not available - has an indicator so I can tell at a glance whether it's on or off (which can be as simple as up=on) - is wireless (Z-wave preferred) - is not in the wall/wired into the house. The device isn't providing power, so this shouldn't be that tough. It could be battery powered or there's a power outlet nearby. What kind device(s) am I looking for? There's enough moving parts that I'm not really sure about my search terms or if I need a couple different things together. odiv fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 16:32
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blugu64 posted:First Alert makes a traditional Fire/co alarm. It’s ZWave though, works good enough for me. No cloud BS, local only. how long do the AAs in these last? I've had 2x on my counter for a month I need to setup
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Aug 10, 2021 18:04
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odiv posted:I'm hoping to attach my pellet stove's thermostat hookup to something can talk to home assistant instead. Then home assistant could turn it on or off based on the main thermostat in the room and whatever other factors I decide. Gonna depend somewhat on how the thermostat hookup controls the pellet stove; do you have a model number or whatever? (FWIW I thought about doing this with our gas fireplace and decided against it because I do not want things that involve literal fire to rely on my not screwing up the programming/be controllable over the internet.)
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Aug 10, 2021 18:07
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text editor posted:how long do the AAs in these last? I've had 2x on my counter for a month I need to setup I put in a couple about six months/a year ago. One needed new batteries a month ago; the rest are still going fine.
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Aug 10, 2021 18:16
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Kalman posted:Gonna depend somewhat on how the thermostat hookup controls the pellet stove; do you have a model number or whatever? Should have included that sorry. It's a simple open circuit = off, closed circuit = on. Wires are just attached to screws on the back. Right now it's hooked up to an old mechanical thermostat. I'm currently looking at building something myself with an ESP8226 possibly. odiv fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 18:21
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The townhouse I'm renting was at one point the model and had a security camera installed at the front door. They really quarter-assed it, but the ethernet connection surprisingly works and they even left behind a PoE switch (though it is only 100mbit). What's my best option for mounting a camera to this? I was initially thinking about just mounting a dome sideways, but that seems to compromise weatherproofing in a lot of cases. I've also found a number of boxes for mounting bullet cameras to junction boxes, but they're all for double size boxes rather than the single one here. They also stick out a lot, and I'd really prefer something low profile.
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Aug 10, 2021 19:50
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odiv posted:Should have included that sorry. It's a simple open circuit = off, closed circuit = on. Wires are just attached to screws on the back. Right now it's hooked up to an old mechanical thermostat. Sounds like a perfect job for a (Zwave or Zigbee or whatever source you want to use) dry contact relay.
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Aug 10, 2021 19:57
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That gives me a good place to start looking thanks! Seems like I'll probably end up needing to cobble together at least a couple different parts to meet all my requirements, but I should be able to get something together. Might even end up doing the ESP8226 build since that would be the most "fun".
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Aug 10, 2021 21:15
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text editor posted:how long do the AAs in these last? I've had 2x on my counter for a month I need to setup Much longer than the every 6 months you should be changing them anyway.
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Aug 10, 2021 21:41
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odiv posted:That gives me a good place to start looking thanks! Honestly I think a Zwave dry contact relay would do it on its own - it’s basically a Zwave controlled switch, so you control open/close and that should control the thermostat input without needing further hardware?
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Aug 10, 2021 23:16
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Maybe I'm just missing the one you're looking at then, because all the ones I'm finding aren't going to do everything I'm looking for on their own. Can you give me a link or model name?
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Aug 10, 2021 23:30
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odiv posted:Maybe I'm just missing the one you're looking at then, because all the ones I'm finding aren't going to do everything I'm looking for on their own. Can you give me a link or model that you're looking at? Oh right you want a physical button that works when HA isn’t. ESP8266 with a dry contact daughterboard and an illuminated push button probably makes the most sense here - you could even use ESPhome for it. Just set it up as a light, an input switch with debounce, and an output switch. Make sure you use a relay that fails to the off state for your thermostat, though - don’t want a dead relay to mean it runs non-stop.
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Aug 10, 2021 23:38
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Cool, thanks for your help, that's probably about what I'll end up with. Though I gotta say I was hoping that you were going to link the dry contact relay with switch and indicator built in that I somehow couldn't find. :P Ah well, should be a fun project. Worst case if it gets stuck on, it will run for like 24 hours max until it runs out of pellets, but yeah that wouldn't be ideal so I'll watch for it.
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Aug 10, 2021 23:55
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I use one of these dry contact relays to override my pool pump and kick it in to high speed mode when I want to. It has a physical button and indicator light but it's in a switch format so you'll need a single gang box to mount it in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI E: Oops, I didn't read further up for the use case. You probably don't want a main power run switch like this then. I'm not sure what kind of battery powered dry contact relays are out there retail so you may have to roll your own. Pitre fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Aug 12, 2021 |
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Aug 11, 2021 15:28
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text editor posted:how long do the AAs in these last? I've had 2x on my counter for a month I need to setup A year plus IME. And they'll warn you when they get low via Z-Wave. My Ring system alerts me if they get low (they're backups to the hard wired ones in my house).
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Aug 11, 2021 16:50
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Oh hell, it begins. Time to get my feet wet on getting home assistant set up and running. Main impetus is for Christmas lights; I installed four outlets up in the eaves to plug things in and I don’t want to deal with getting all the timers lined up and plugged in simultaneously, as well as the three interior outlets that also need timers. There are a few other things like water sensors I’d like to have but I’m not planning on going crazy.
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