|
80k posted:It seems the gold standard is wired ethernet and access points with a controller (i.e. Unifi or Omada)... but how much is someone giving up by using a mesh network? You end up with worse latency, reliability, and (frequently) bandwidth.
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2021 21:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 04:21 |
|
|
otter posted:yeah, i expected to do exactly that. Coil 10 feet if you can, so you can reterminate or move the outlet if needed.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2021 23:20
|
|
|
Also just my opinion with some time in this field - cat5e and that 66 are fine for gigabit. Cat5 is fine for phone. You can punch the station cables, and some cross connect for a switch and use it, but you’d need solid wire patch and a 66 cut blade. It will work just fine if you want to use it instead of replacing it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 00:04
|
|
|
80k posted:Yea, this thread probably needs an updated OP. Essentially nothing. I have an absolutely bonkers wifi solution. 5+ Cisco 3802i APs, mgig switch, etc. Single client tests are 540 mbps on Google Wifi, 570 on the Cisco setup. Cisco setup had a negligible latency advantage of 10% or so. I'm just adding some wifi 6 APs and will retest, but I don't really expect much as you're hitting client limits on both. I was super happy with its stability for two years -- I only switched it up to build an IOT VLAN. edit: super big caveat: I'm on .75 acres with otherwise uncrowded spectrum. If you're in an apartment building, good luck. KS fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Aug 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 00:06
|
|
|
astral posted:You end up with worse latency, reliability, and (frequently) bandwidth. Right, that's why wired ethernet and AP's are recommended. But it's a tall order to ask someone to wire up an existing home without knowing how much of a difference it actually makes. KS posted:Essentially nothing. I have an absolutely bonkers wifi solution. 5+ Cisco 3802i APs, mgig switch, etc. Single client tests are 540 mbps on Google Wifi, 570 on the Cisco setup. Cisco setup had a negligible latency advantage of 10% or so. I'm just adding some wifi 6 APs and will retest, but I don't really expect much as you're hitting client limits on both. That's super helpful to know. I know a few people looking into wiring their homes after seeing the setup I have in my home, but I'll have them consider Google WiFi first.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 00:25
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:You pulled SMF and only run 1gbps over it? My local net has 10G hardware on it but the ISP connection is 1G. That said, it was cheaper to have the installer run SMF instead of MMF. I originally planned for MMF. Edit: and running cat6a/cat7 wasn’t really any cheaper. Most of the struggles of my house were goofy single floor to finished basement problems that required like 12 hours of fishing cable around.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 01:15
|
|
|
Rakeris posted:So was going to run Ethernet to a couple spots in the house to later hook up APs to, only plan to do two, is there a reason I shouldn't just buy two premade cables that are longer than I need and just leave the excess in the attic? Seems like a lot less work than buying bulk cable and punching them etc. Best of both worlds. Do what you are describing, but avoid punching down stuff, still get that clean finish: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p...2BoC4JsQAvD_BwE
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 01:33
|
|
|
Luckily I found a way to hunt for a signal using my old router's switch side and was able to find the magic cable that routed up to the office where I have the desktop. AAAAAAAnd the cable happens to be high enough quality that I can push line speed without issue. This is great, since it means I can use the Google Wifi for as long as I want. Plus I can switch back to my mikrotik/Ubnt/etc. setup if I feel like it and APs come back in stock. All while still getting "real" speed to the one place that needs it. I really didn't want to have to figure out how to run a cable through this rental house and I'm happy it looks like I won't have to. FunOne fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Aug 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 02:38
|
|
|
80k posted:Right, that's why wired ethernet and AP's are recommended. But it's a tall order to ask someone to wire up an existing home without knowing how much of a difference it actually makes. As awesome as it might feel to have “enterprise grade” gear, the reality is the majority of homes will function perfectly fine with a mesh system. People online will complain because they aren’t getting a 940mbps speed test in every inch of their house but as long as you aren’t having to buffer mid episode/movie does it really matter if your smart TV is getting a gig when 30mbps down will let you stream 4k? Yes, absolutely wire devices that are time sensitive and require more latency or are bandwidth hogs, but good network planning and understanding your requirements is more important than throwing money at equipment. The biggest problem with most prebundled mesh systems is they are so user friendly and locked down that you can’t do very basic configuration changes on them. They take 5 minutes to set up and are done from a phone app but if you want to do something as basic as set a static IP (which even consumer wireless routers have commonly supported for decades) you are out of luck. The biggest exception seems to be the Orbi which is the mesh I recommend, as it has an actual interface you can log into and some of the models use a dedicated band for the backhaul.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 06:05
|
|
|
And that’s my problem: without line of sight I can’t keep a stable enough connection to not drop my work vpn, and without that I can’t work from home. With my Ethernet cord draped through the middle of the halls I can keep the vpn up, voip, stream music and play Xbox.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 07:40
|
|
|
Hey so im looking to buy a new router and modem to replace my ISP provided combo deal, and since that doesnt have bridge mode i need both. That has left me not really sure what to get for a modem because tbqh despite being an IT drone for nearly 10 years i just learned a bunch of this stuff. I'm in the UK and my provider is plusnet and i have fiber but believe its just FTTC, whats a good reasonably priced modem that will work for me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 13:11
|
|
|
Yeah I had a mesh system for a while, tried both Ubiquiti and the Asus mesh. Wired WAPS are just better. As much as wifi is already a bottleneck I got tired of that bottlenecking the entire net.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 14:42
|
|
|
I have a shockingly expensive Orbi with one satellite and it bathes our relatively small house in fast internet. If you’re after speed you need a dedicated backhaul radio as mentioned (most manufacturers have this in their upper tier mesh kits).
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 14:56
|
|
|
Having a weird issue with my UDM Pro/Protect app on Android - for whatever reason, I cannot get the App to recognize I am locally accessing the device when I'm on a my Wifi, so it uses the remote connection. Via web browser it works as expected locally. Any thoughts on what I can do to troubleshoot this?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2021 15:22
|
|
|
Gyshall posted:Having a weird issue with my UDM Pro/Protect app on Android - for whatever reason, I cannot get the App to recognize I am locally accessing the device when I'm on a my Wifi, so it uses the remote connection. Via web browser it works as expected locally. Any thoughts on what I can do to troubleshoot this? If I'm understanding you question correctly, I believe the Protect mobile app has no allowance for being on the same LAN as your protect controller - it will always rely on a remote connection. Accessing the protect controller directly by IP (even on a mobile browser) does not have the same restriction. This is one of my major frustrations about how Protect is implemented - I cannot use the mobile app, even on my own LAN, because I don't want to expose my controller to the internet.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2021 05:54
|
|
|
Yeah I've been getting by with the Home Assistant integration, but it's frustrating to say the least.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2021 03:18
|
|
|
I'm looking at possibly getting some new Ubiquiti hardware, but in reading back a few pages I saw some mention of fuckery with something to do with them, what's that all about?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 06:29
|
|
|
Lee Outrageous posted:I'm looking at possibly getting some new Ubiquiti hardware, but in reading back a few pages I saw some mention of fuckery with something to do with them, what's that all about? They had a big boo boo and handled it very poorly https://krebsonsecurity.com/2021/03/whistleblower-ubiquiti-breach-catastrophic/
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 06:39
|
|
|
Lee Outrageous posted:I'm looking at possibly getting some new Ubiquiti hardware, but in reading back a few pages I saw some mention of fuckery with something to do with them, what's that all about? I think a reasonable take would be: If you’re looking at the EdgeMAX line, you’re probably fine. If you’re looking at Unifi, maybe think twice about your risk tolerance. For what it’s worth, I would happily buy more EdgeMAX hardware. I’ve never own any Unifi stuff, partly because centralized management kind of turned me off from a complexity of setup standpoint.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 14:09
|
|
|
I’m getting annoyed with the bugs and limitations in my edgerouter 4, I’m looking to replace it with a low power computer running vyos.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 14:35
|
|
|
Perplx posted:I’m getting annoyed with the bugs and limitations in my edgerouter 4, I’m looking to replace it with a low power computer running vyos. Interesting. What the missing scenario with ER-4? I have one but haven’t run up on any bugs or limitations for my own usecases.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 16:09
|
|
|
rufius posted:Interesting. What the missing scenario with ER-4? Yeah, same -- my ER-4 works nicely for my purposes, but if it ever grenaded itself.... I don't have a compelling reason to get another one vs. getting a pf box. Power consumption is nice and low though! I have a quick, dumb question -- I have a DeskMini 310 that I'm setting up to be a colo box. I usually toss a pfSense VM on it to act as the firewall. Being a mini box, it only has a single NIC. Usually, on bigger machines, I have another NIC I can assign to my vmkernel / the pfSense LAN. I've thought about doing a USB NIC to ESXi and/or pfSense, but it doesn't seem to be surviving reboots very well. Then I thought... maybe I can VLAN on the single NIC, and assign the vmkernel interface to a VLAN to leave myself a backdoor, while then keeping it's untagged / 'main' traffic to the pfSense WAN interface. Since I'll end up setting a static IP for the colo center, this lets me still configure stuff while keeping the WAN interface ready. I'm sure the colo folks are the right to answer this, but I'm curious if any of the experienced goons can tell me what to expect here? Possible, not possible? tl;dr -- can I use VLANs on an interface that's destined for a colo / being directly strapped to WAN?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 17:52
|
|
|
rufius posted:I think a reasonable take would be: Do they have any access points that aren't Unifi managed? Or at the very least is it possible to disable it? I really like their hardware for how easy it is to manage and configure everything. Alternatively, if there's anything else on the market that has similar ease of management I'd also be interested to look into whatever it may be.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 21:51
|
|
|
Lee Outrageous posted:Do they have any access points that aren't Unifi managed? Or at the very least is it possible to disable it? I really like their hardware for how easy it is to manage and configure everything. Alternatively, if there's anything else on the market that has similar ease of management I'd also be interested to look into whatever it may be. You can set up access points through the UniFi phone app, you’ll miss out on some of the more advanced features though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 22:23
|
|
|
rufius posted:Interesting. What the missing scenario with ER-4? I have bell fibre, using the isp supplied sfp module the sfp interface would constantly reset because of driver bugs making it useless. I used a $30 media converter to get around that bug. The wireguard speed is about 300Mb, which is less than my connections. It’s been a while since I had 1gb plan but it couldn’t handle pppoe over vlan with traffic analysis on, so a useless feature. It might of been too slow to do pppoe over vlan with traffic analysis off, I can’t remember. I have 500/500 now, it can handle that, but not if I enable qos. So another useless feature. Most of these problems stem from Bells weird vlan/pppoe setup, but I could make a router pc for about the same as what I paid for the er-4 and it would do 1gb with all those features enabled. Perplx fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Aug 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2021 23:31
|
|
|
I’m moving into a new home and I’m planning out wiring the place up with Cat6. For the living room I have 6-8 devices that I’d like to have hard wired. Would you guys recommend running 8 Ethernet drops to that location and having 8 jacks in the wall or would I be better off having a single jack and having a switch in the media console? On the one hand having 8 drops and 8 wall jacks would eliminate the need to use up space in the media console for a switch and powering it. On the other hand it’s a lot more wire to run + having all of that wire coming from the wall hiding behind the console.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2021 02:00
|
|
|
xgalaxy posted:I’m moving into a new home and I’m planning out wiring the place up with Cat6. I don’t see much advantage to doing 8 drops. At most I’d do 2 or maybe 4 drops to a keystone. For most rooms in my parents house, they have 2 drops a piece except the media room which has 4. Long as you’re willing to throw an unmanaged switch behind the TV, you’re unlikely to saturate a single cable’s bandwidth.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2021 02:37
|
|
|
xgalaxy posted:I’m moving into a new home and I’m planning out wiring the place up with Cat6. I use 5 or 8 port gigabit desktop switches. When I built my house drops were 140 a pop so I wasn’t running multiple if I didn’t need to. I also saw zero downside to using the switches in my use case scenarios. There is nothing I do anywhere in my house I would saturate a gig line. I ran one Ethernet and one RG6 to every room in my house and to the kitchen. 12 drops total. My only regrets, and they are minor, is I wish I would have ran 2 lines to a few of the bedrooms, one drop on opposite walls. We ended up putting furniture in different places than originally expected and in one room I had to run Ethernet along the baseboard to the opposite wall. I also didn’t run any ceiling lines for waps, but that hasn’t been a huge deal. It would have been nice to do during the build, but I’ve had 3 years to do it myself and haven’t bothered so clearly it’s not that important to me. Running 2 drops to each location is a good idea if it’s in budget. If one line goes bad you have a backup or you have 2 main lines to your core.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2021 02:39
|
|
|
movax posted:tl;dr -- can I use VLANs on an interface that's destined for a colo / being directly strapped to WAN? By colo do you just mean a server running a hypervisor in this instance? Setup is very simple, you but need a 802.1q capable switch to go between your server and your modem. You’ll have the same issues as normally running your router as a VM, such as server maintenance will bring down your network. Otherwise just be mindful of bandwidth. For example, a desktop on the network downloading at 300mbps is going to use 300mbps of both tx and rx on that NIC. Not a big deal for most home setups where most traffic is downloads coming into the network but depending on what other servers you are running on that box the nic can be a bottleneck.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2021 13:22
|
|
|
movax posted:I'm sure the colo folks are the right to answer this, but I'm curious if any of the experienced goons can tell me what to expect here? Possible, not possible? In theory this seems like it should work as long as the upstream switch ignores all VLAN-tagged traffic but I don't know that I'd want to trust that. I've contemplated figuring out how to mount an Edgerouter (or similar) inside a chassis for pretty much this exact reason.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2021 18:57
|
|
|
Cyks posted:By colo do you just mean a server running a hypervisor in this instance? Setup is very simple, you but need a 802.1q capable switch to go between your server and your modem. You’ll have the same issues as normally running your router as a VM, such as server maintenance will bring down your network. I want to send my DeskMini to the guys at EndOffice for their mini PC colo (in retrospect perhaps I should have just taken them up on their Synology colo…), and in the past, the last thing I do before buttoning up the machine is log into pfSense and set the WAN to the static IP they tell me. But, I do that while connected to a second NIC on the box. USB NICs don’t seem to persist well either getting passed through to a VM, or to ESXi, so then the VLAN thought hit me… and that’s got to be 100% dependent on how EndOffice does their networking, right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
movax posted:Personally I would not touch the UniFi stuff for routing -- only APs and switches. That said, I put in a UDM-Pro at my parents', and it seems to be going OK, but it's also not a very complex network. I'm still happy with unifi tbh. For set and forget it's great. That being said you are right in the sense that obviously there are better options available. However, I'm not going to throw pf or opnsense after working all day on watchguard or sonicwalls. I just want a set and forget. Unifi does that well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 03:22
|
|
|
So a local low volt electrician is quoting me about $2k-$3k to wire the house (one story, ~1800sqft) with CAT6 for : - 2 runs to each bedroom (3 bedrooms) - 2 runs to living room - 2 runs to separate ceiling access point locations (2 locations) Seems a bit high. I'm going to get quotes from multiple places but he says he wont compete on the quote if I'm not going to get quotes from "reputable" contractors. Of course he is leaving the definition of "reputable" completely up to him.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 18:55
|
|
|
That to me sounds like a guy who doesn't need a call back after you get some more quotes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 19:12
|
|
|
Hmmm, that could be high or reasonable based on difficulty. I can tell you on the other side of doing it all myself, I'd gladly pay that. My only reference is about $800/day for good electricians. "Reputable" = not a random handyman who is googling how to punch it down, I'd guess.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 19:13
|
|
|
xgalaxy posted:So a local low volt electrician is quoting me about $2k-$3k to wire the house (one story, ~1800sqft) with CAT6 for : Unless your house has weird geometries like mine, that seems high. Mine was about $2200 but it was 10+ hours of work for two guys. (There’s some weirdness with columns and creative “barriers” that they had to work around). I also had more drops put in - 5 total without shared walls (more work). I’d shop around.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 19:14
|
|
|
What area is that? $2K-$3K, if he is doing all those runs, cutting / patching / painting (!??!) drywall as needed... it's taking me months to do runs in my house, and I've easily spent a few hundred dollars on tools to get that done. I'm in Seattle and for 10 runs, including some ceiling stuff, and IF that includes the patching of whatever cuts were made, I would pay for it. I have a 4 story townhome and having someone who's done this for awhile, knows how houses are built and has a decade+ of tricks of how to run cable is probably a better choice than cutting little single-gang j-box sized holes in drywall and trying to snake cable through thtat. If the patching up of stuff is left to you though, gently caress that -- just do it yourself, at that point, there's no goddamned difference. The labor is in cleaning up after pulling cables + having diligence to do it in the least invasive way possible IMO. I mean, you should always multi-quote it, but thinking about the time job will take, driving out, etc etc.... man, residential work sucks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 19:16
|
|
|
Yea I'm not opposed to paying that, if that is the market rate. So I'll get some more quotes but yea. The area is Portland, Oregon. I wouldn't think getting access to the areas would be terribly difficult, relatively speaking It's a one story home with both crawl space and attic access.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 20:03
|
|
|
I used to pay 140 a drop in a corporate environment over 10 years ago. Those were easy runs in drop ceilings as well. 10 drops for 2,000 bucks, he supplies all material, and deals with August attic and crawlspace environments isn't a terrible deal to me. The trades are busy right now and honestly I'm surprised you found someone willing to even do the job. 2K i'd do it. 3K I'm not sure, but I have the tools and knowledge to do the job myself. The quote is not out of line at all for an actual business owner with all the appropriate business overhead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 20:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 04:21 |
|
|
Imo if you are going to pay you should run more cables. There's a lot of overhead and the marginal price per cable should be low.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2021 20:17
|
|
