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I've been using the Jasper branch of Marlin, very happy with it, I think I'm using the 15x15 bed probe version. Takes forever to do the probe but appears to be very accurate https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin Can you link to where you found the klipper stuff for E3 V2? Printer firmware is very fragmented and most of the links are grossly out of date, thanks
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Aug 16, 2021 09:41
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Deviant posted:which hairspray? i use got2b for cosplay already but that feels like overkill As noted: Aquanet Unscented Back when I first got started in 3d printing and glass beds were the primary hotness, Aquanet Unscented was the thing to use for PLA and PETG (presuming you put a thick layer on for PETG). Finicky stuff like ABS or Nylon or whatever still require a heated build chamber plus a glue/slurry on the glass that is basically ABS dissolved into some acetone. Some folks home-brew it, others buy already made stuff like Magigoo for ABS or whatever they call it now. Side note: Don't ever print PETG on a glass bed unless you have your ending Gcode keep the bed on about 50C for 20 minutes and then decrease by 5C increments every 5 minutes until you reach 25C and then turn off. If you let the bed cool completely all at once at whatever ambient temps are relative to print temps, the PETG can tear up chunks of glass as it contracts.
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Aug 16, 2021 10:50
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I always offer up this suggestion when hair spray chat happens, and you're welcome to take it or leave it, but - don't shoot it directly at the machine. Spray a paper towel until it's damp and then wipe that on the bed, or take the build plate off and do it away from things you wouldn't want to get a bunch of overspray on. For PLA especially, it doesn't take much at all to be effective. All you need is enough to lightly and evenly wet the surface. I often see people recommending multiple applications to build up layers, and in my experience that's just not necessary for PLA. Multiple/thicker coats are a good idea for PETG as bear mentioned though, just to make sure you've got a nice interference layer between the print and the glass.
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Aug 16, 2021 12:05
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Acid Reflux posted:I always offer up this suggestion when hair spray chat happens, and you're welcome to take it or leave it, but - don't shoot it directly at the machine. Spray a paper towel until it's damp and then wipe that on the bed, or take the build plate off and do it away from things you wouldn't want to get a bunch of overspray on. For PLA especially, it doesn't take much at all to be effective. All you need is enough to lightly and evenly wet the surface. I often see people recommending multiple applications to build up layers, and in my experience that's just not necessary for PLA. Multiple/thicker coats are a good idea for PETG as bear mentioned though, just to make sure you've got a nice interference layer between the print and the glass. Also yeah, this. Don't be that kid that got himself into a "3d printers will set your home on fire" article by spraying carelessly directly at the machine.
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Aug 16, 2021 12:45
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Javid posted:the advice I was given was "the cheapest hairspray available locally" so I spent $2 at the dollar general for a can I have yet to meaningfully deplete in months Yeah, even when I was using it regularly (I've been bouncing between the magnetic build tak and textured glass) I haven't noticed a meaningful reduction in the amount in the can of AquaNet pink I picked up like 4 years ago.
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Aug 16, 2021 12:48
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I seem to recall the magic ingredients in hairspray that you want is Acrylates Copolymer. If it has that and it's unscented, it'll probably work. Aquanet was the brand I always used.
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Aug 16, 2021 15:42
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snail posted:My experience with Marlin and the probe on an Ender3 v2 I was given was very sub-par. Put Klipper on there, and you'll wonder why people live without a bed probe. E3v2 is my gently caress-around printer, I've got the Prusa for Serious Business. I am willing to mix things up and make mistakes, so I can take a look at Klipper. Did you go the "build from OctoPi" route? Would you say that Klipper + BLTouch + a rigid bed spacer kit reasonably approximates Prusa's setup? It seems to me like it should, but I'm sure I'm missing something. As it is, I don't mind using a feeler gauge and the bed screws, but as I've said several times now, this Ender 3 v2 is my Project Car. It wouldn't be fun to just leave it alone, so I want to at least ask questions about popular mods and figure out what's worth doing.
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Aug 16, 2021 16:44
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I don't even like the BLTouch on my big printer, its "repeatability" is horribly unreliable. I'd much rather do a manual mesh routine, but I've been too lazy to mod in a Z limit switch and roll up some new firmware. I still can't even imagine voluntarily installing a probe on something the size of an Ender, you can tram one of those in a matter of seconds quite literally by eye. Just adjust the nozzle until you just barely don't see any light between it and the bed surface. I don't even use paper or anything on my smaller machines anymore.
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Aug 16, 2021 17:04
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Acid Reflux posted:I don't even like the BLTouch on my big printer, its "repeatability" is horribly unreliable. I'd much rather do a manual mesh routine, but I've been too lazy to mod in a Z limit switch and roll up some new firmware. I still can't even imagine voluntarily installing a probe on something the size of an Ender, you can tram one of those in a matter of seconds quite literally by eye. Just adjust the nozzle until you just barely don't see any light between it and the bed surface. I don't even use paper or anything on my smaller machines anymore. This is a totally reasonable argument. Right now I’m just using Jyers’ manual leveling/tramming which allows quick and repeatable positioning of the extruder over five points (center and the corners), which is already much better than pushing the bed and extruder assembly around by hand. I just like asking the questions and learning. I’ll go ahead and offer that, with manually tramming as described, my prints on the Ender have been great thus far.
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Aug 16, 2021 17:18
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I guess I should have followed that with - I completely understand the "project car" thing. I have my working printers, and then I have another one off to the side with a whole bunch of both printed and purchased mods because I also like to tinker with things. Anything worthwhile like the common extruder mechanism/spring upgrade kit has been added to all of the Enders (and my Elegoo Neptune 2, which is more than superficially similar). Filament guides have been handy, as well as tool storage right on the printers. Other stuff that isn't all that great or just cosmetic hasn't made it to the others. There's no shame at all in having a test bed/project printer. 
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Aug 16, 2021 17:27
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What on earth are you guys doing to your BLtouch? Easily one of the better QoL upgrades you can do and in my experience more reliable than IR or force sensors.
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Aug 16, 2021 17:53
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Neat. Elegoo announced their big resin printer, the Jupiter. Downside is it's on Kickstarter soon. Still, some decent deals if you are an early backer.
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Aug 16, 2021 18:38
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Neat. Elegoo announced their big resin printer, the Jupiter. Downside is it's on Kickstarter soon. Still, some decent deals if you are an early backer. Bigger than the Saturn?
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Aug 16, 2021 19:29
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Rectovagitron posted:I just got my first printer this week, a Prusa MK3s+, after having played around with a MakerBot a decade ago. I've now done a month of nonstop printing in PLA and PETG, and the Prusa is indeed a workhorse. It's unbelievable how reliable this is compared to my prior, although dated, experience.
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Aug 16, 2021 20:37
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Neat. Elegoo announced their big resin printer, the Jupiter. Downside is it's on Kickstarter soon. Still, some decent deals if you are an early backer. Yeah fingers crossed on this thing. I'm super holding off on buying any really big format printers until chitu sorts out their bullshit with third party software
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Aug 16, 2021 21:03
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I have some gcode I got from thingiverse that will move the nozzle clockwise between the four screw points a few times so I can wiggle a receipt around under it. This will get me close ENOUGH that I can start a print and dial it exactly in by watching the lines of the brim much faster than doing a zillion reps with the paper. This was initially a pain in the rear end, but at this point it takes five minutes, and I have to do it less than once a week when I'm actively using the printer. Are you guys switching beds a lot or something that this activity warrants automation? E: I have a secondhand ender 3 variant, I don't actually know which submodel Javid fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Aug 16, 2021 |
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Aug 16, 2021 21:38
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There is a plug-in for octoprint that will give you a nice 3d render of how out of level your bed is Bed Visualizer, maybe?
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Aug 16, 2021 21:51
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I think this winter I am going to finally pull the trigger and get into 3D printing. I'm mostly aiming to produce fairly simple stuff for personal use in woodworking and small electronics (jigs, dust management parts, enclosures, etc.) I'm proficient in Blender and Sketchup (for what that's worth), but should I be setting time/money aside from eg. Fusion 360 or Solidworks? I'm sure F360/Solidworks is better for 3D printing, but I'd rather not learn another piece of software. Is there anything significant in those that Blender doesn't have that would make it worth the investment?
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Aug 16, 2021 22:19
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Javid posted:I have some gcode I got from thingiverse that will move the nozzle clockwise between the four screw points a few times so I can wiggle a receipt around under it. This will get me close ENOUGH that I can start a print and dial it exactly in by watching the lines of the brim much faster than doing a zillion reps with the paper. All this becomes irrelevant with a BLtouch. I really don't understand this threads reluctance to use it. One of the weaknesses of the BLVCube design is that the bed *can* slip when you turn the printer off, so that it can be off level when you turn it on again...but I only bother to relevel if it's visually out of alignment or I have big/"important" print. Rest of the time the BLtouch/Reprap will take of it, even if it's several millimeters out.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:22
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:I'm sure F360/Solidworks is better for 3D printing, but I'd rather not learn another piece of software. Is there anything significant in those that Blender doesn't have that would make it worth the investment?
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Aug 16, 2021 22:28
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:I think this winter I am going to finally pull the trigger and get into 3D printing. I'm mostly aiming to produce fairly simple stuff for personal use in woodworking and small electronics (jigs, dust management parts, enclosures, etc.) I'm proficient in Blender and Sketchup (for what that's worth), but should I be setting time/money aside from eg. Fusion 360 or Solidworks? Fwiw, I use sketchup because I didn’t want to learn another piece of software. I’m able to do some basic bits and boxes and even a couple of neat things, but trust me you want a much much better tool for the job.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:35
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ah, rats. I know there are parametric tools for Blender but they seem even worse than just learning fusion or whatever. Oh well, another thing on the pile. Thanks for the advice!
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Aug 16, 2021 22:49
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Onshape is neat, if you want to model some things on the go, since it runs in the browser. I'm doing things in it at work during rainy lunch breaks.
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Aug 16, 2021 23:09
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Sockser posted:There is a plug-in for octoprint that will give you a nice 3d render of how out of level your bed is The jeyers/marlin fork has this built in to the E3 V2 firmware, there's some pretty obvious low points on my build plate, the center is ~0.08mm lower in the center than the edges, and the top right corner has a notable low spot too
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Aug 16, 2021 23:28
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Hadlock posted:The jeyers/marlin fork has this built in to the E3 V2 firmware, there's some pretty obvious low points on my build plate, the center is ~0.08mm lower in the center than the edges, and the top right corner has a notable low spot too I’m on mobile and can’t check right now - this requires a sensor, right? The center of my bed is higher than the corners, if my paper is to be believed. Suddenly this afternoon I cannot get a decent bed level. Wishing for a 5x5 probe/map right about now.
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Aug 16, 2021 23:57
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Yeah I installed a bltouch on my E3 V2
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Aug 17, 2021 00:09
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For CAD/3D designing I use Shapr3d for the iPad, as that’s all I have available. My MacBook is old as sin and only just handles Cura for slicing. It’s a really capable program, although a few things are missing that a more capable software has I’m sure. Main setback I’ve found is the hardware limitation of my 2016 iPad Pro. One some of my much more complex models I’m having the app hang for 5 seconds plus for every single action.
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Aug 17, 2021 00:58
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I can't actually find the post now but whoever said they just eyeball the initial level is a genius, it gets it as close as the paper does and I finish dialing it in visually when I print ANYWAY, 11/10 no more rubbing my hairspray off with paper every timeCombat Pretzel posted:Onshape is neat, if you want to model some things on the go, since it runs in the browser. I'm doing things in it at work during rainy lunch breaks. I also do all my dumb bullshit in onshape; I WANT something that isn't dependent on my internet but I have been too lazy to learn a whole rear end new software, and onshape does actually work on all my pcs right now ImplicitAssembler posted:All this becomes irrelevant with a BLtouch. I really don't understand this threads reluctance to use it. You don't understand why less than 100% of people are interested in spending extra money to modify their printer in order to sidestep an operation that can be performed by eyeball in 5 minutes? I don't get it.
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Aug 17, 2021 01:01
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Hadlock posted:Can you link to where you found the klipper stuff for E3 V2? Printer firmware is very fragmented and most of the links are grossly out of date, thanks https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-creality-ender3-v2-2020.cfg is the config that'll work with a v2 out of the box. I also add the following for a BLTouch as a virtual endstop, and the bed leveling aid. You can setup a mesh yourself, there's plenty of instructions in the github config repo. I have an adjusted X and Y endstop, so my screws tilt adjust settings are a little different from stock, but it's easy enough to jog the printer and find exactly where you want to be touching that probe. This config below will fail because of X limits, but you should be able to change the X limit to ~ 246 or so anyway, the nozzle can be reliably moved off the right side of the bed without hitting anything. [stepper_z] ... endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop [bltouch] sensor_pin: ^PB1 control_pin: PB0 x_offset: -42 y_offset: 10 [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 70.5,37.5 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 240,37.5 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 240,207.5 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 70.5,207.5 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 5 speed: 50 screw_thread: CW-M4 ImplicitAssembler posted:What on earth are you guys doing to your BLtouch? I'm with you on this. People say they get repeatability issues with their touch sensor. I want to know what brand they bought, so I can avoid it. snail fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 01:14
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Hamburlgar posted:For CAD/3D designing I use Shapr3d for the iPad, as that’s all I have available. My MacBook is old as sin and only just handles Cura for slicing. I learned about this program here in this thread (probably from you) and I know what I'm buying if I ever get my hands on an ipad pro and pen. It looks pretty sweet.
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Aug 17, 2021 02:20
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Bucnasti posted:Bigger than the Saturn? Naturally. It's slightly smaller than that gigantic one phrozen is offering. Lil larger pixel density and a smaller build volume, but also, lil smaller price. As mentioned, it's a Kickstarter printer, the upside being the super early bird ones are like 600 bucks. The downside being if they fail or just decide to take everyone's cash and haul it, there's nothing you can really do. I'm not a fan of established companies using it as a platform. Haven't heard if they are using a locked down board or not. Probably though.
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Aug 17, 2021 02:54
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lmao shipping the Jupiter is going to be awesome. They mentioned on their FB page that it is going to weigh over 40kg.
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Aug 17, 2021 12:37
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GATOS Y VATOS posted:lmao shipping the Jupiter is going to be awesome. They mentioned on their FB page that it is going to weigh over 40kg. Yeah. Shipping on the Mega8k was $500 (although it is 2nd day air from China). With the early bird pricing it was still cheaper than retail, but if you don't want to pay out the nose to get it RIGHTNOWDAMMIT it's best to wait until they get some in a warehouse in the US, or to Amazon or something.
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Aug 17, 2021 12:47
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:As mentioned, it's a Kickstarter printer, the upside being the super early bird ones are like 600 bucks. The downside being if they fail or just decide to take everyone's cash and haul it, there's nothing you can really do. I'm not a fan of established companies using it as a platform. Yeah, I'm with Makers Muse on this, Kickstarter isn't for established companies adding new items to their line. Bankroll that poo poo yourselves and leave KS for operations trying to get their start, FFS.
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Aug 17, 2021 12:47
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Yeah, I'm with Makers Muse on this, Kickstarter isn't for established companies adding new items to their line. Bankroll that poo poo yourselves and leave KS for operations trying to get their start, FFS. The Creality CR-6 was an appropriate KS. They didn't have the thing finished, and they didn't know how much of a demand there would be for it. But seeing how THAT turned out, I still agree.
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Aug 17, 2021 12:51
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Doctor Zero posted:The Creality CR-6 was an appropriate KS. They didn't have the thing finished, and they didn't know how much of a demand there would be for it. But seeing how THAT turned out, I still agree. If we're talking something that's more or less the first of its kind then maybe KS is still appropriate. But even then, for an established company I think taking a paid (refundable) deposit as an expression of interest should probably be workable as a way to gain meaningful demand data?
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Aug 17, 2021 13:18
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The problem is that Kickstarter is the only mainstream platform for doing a deposit/preorder campaign. Unless you’re a monster company, doing it on your own site wouldn’t bring in nearly as many orders as doing it on Kickstarter does. There’s no reason for established companies not to use Kickstarter for these things. The days of kickstarters being exclusively scrappy underdogs with cool ideas is over and now that space is always going to include bigger and bigger companies.
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Aug 17, 2021 15:37
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Javid posted:I also do all my dumb bullshit in onshape; I WANT something that isn't dependent on my internet but I have been too lazy to learn a whole rear end new software, and onshape does actually work on all my pcs right now
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Aug 17, 2021 17:12
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Ender 3 sisters and bros - In sorting out a clogged nozzle on my E3v2, it occurred to me that I don't have any spares for it. I'd like to rectify that. Where are you buying your nozzles? I've read good things about TriangleLab's nozzles, but they appear to offer very limited quantities for purchase. If I'm going to wait a month for these to show up, I'd like to get a dozen and only ever have to wait that month once. If there's a particularly good product available from a US-based reseller and shipping won't be four weeks, I'm happy to deal in smaller quantities. Are TH3D's nozzles reliable quality? Any others I should look at?
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Aug 17, 2021 17:34
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becoming posted:Ender 3 sisters and bros - In sorting out a clogged nozzle on my E3v2, it occurred to me that I don't have any spares for it. I'd like to rectify that. Where are you buying your nozzles? I've read good things about TriangleLab's nozzles, but they appear to offer very limited quantities for purchase. If I'm going to wait a month for these to show up, I'd like to get a dozen and only ever have to wait that month once. If there's a particularly good product available from a US-based reseller and shipping won't be four weeks, I'm happy to deal in smaller quantities. Are TH3D's nozzles reliable quality? Any others I should look at? Honestly? I just buy cheap nozzles on amazon and chuck em with they clog or get worn down.
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Aug 17, 2021 17:39
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