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Yeah that’s exactly what I do. I don’t have the time to futz around with pulling molten plastic out of an old nozzle during a nozzle change. I just toss them and throw on a new one and get back to printing.
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Aug 17, 2021 17:42
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Yep, the cheap packages of nozzles from Amazon or Aliexpress (and those are all but guaranteed to be the same things) are pretty much all I've ever used. I've had exactly one nozzle out of untold numbers over the last few years that was actually bad, it somehow missed the drilling machine and was completely solid. I put new ones on all of my machines every month or two whether I think they need it or not, because they are cheap and plentiful and it's easy to do.
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Aug 17, 2021 17:46
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guys do not buy the cheap nozzles on amazon ffs They are poorly machined and you will be chasing issues for a lot longer than if you'd gotten a decent, but still not terribly expensive, nozzle from TriangleLab / DForce / Phaetus / other vendors. There are several US vendors with good pricing for nozzles if you're interested in a list.
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Aug 17, 2021 17:58
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insta posted:guys do not buy the cheap nozzles on amazon ffs Seriously. Use Aliexpress. I paid 4 bucks including postage for 20 nozzles months ago and still have 15 left.
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Aug 17, 2021 18:29
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While we're on nozzle chat: I've gone through a saga of trying out various small nozzles and having failures, until i got back to the 0.4, which is now printing just fine on my Ender 3. One of my buds suggested that the filament I was using may have contributed to the failures. I tend to use cheaper PLA and for a long time I was running a 0.6 because relatively few of the things I print (workshop jigs and board game storage trays) need fine details, and so I often just buy lots of low-end PLAs like EconoFil. He says that if I want to go below 0.4 I need to make sure that I'm using good filament which is nice and dry. However, the 0.2 and 0.3 I tried out were also cheapo amazon nozzles. The problem was basically under extrusion and uneven extrusion. Is this a "either/or/both" sitaution? Would I be well served to pitch the $10 of amazon nozzles I have laying around and order some better ones from uhhhh somewhere?
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Aug 17, 2021 18:33
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Regarding Ender 3s and their clones (in a semi-rant in the latter half of the video). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vai6NKxeG0 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 18:43
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Bucnasti posted:The problem is that Kickstarter is the only mainstream platform for doing a deposit/preorder campaign. I think you have kind of hit the nail on the head here. I mean, using Kickstarter evaporates like 10-15% right off the top (10% for their cut, up to 5% at times for payment processing fees) For a big campaign, that's a lot of money. So for a big company to use them anyway & get at least that much value from them regardless to make it still "worth it" is pretty telling.
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Aug 17, 2021 18:47
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Paradoxically, 3D printers are both highly tolerant of and extremely sensitive to nozzle quality. Tolerant, in that your nozzle can be extremely hosed up and the printer will still probably print something. I've accidentally run parts sliced for 0.4 on machines with a 1.0mm nozzle and they still laid down plastic and everything stuck together and the print finished. It just looked like poo poo afterwards. Sensitive, in that even the slightest imperfections in nozzle flow will affect how the plastic is deposited and can lead to all kinds of subtle aesthetic issues: wavy layers, blobs, things that look like under- or over-extrusion. Try running a file sliced for 0.4mm with a 0.6mm nozzle installed. That will simulate having a nozzle that is worn out, drilled slightly oversize, etc. The part will probably still finish fine but it'll look crappy -- similar to slight underextrusion. People seeing this might start chasing underextrusion without even considering that maybe it's just the 17 cent Amazon nozzle being over-bored to 0.5mm, something you'd never detect without precision measurement. Cha bu duo The nozzle is the part of your printer that shapes the plastic as it goes down. Tiny imperfections like burrs on the edge of the bore or a slightly imperfect drilling job will show up in your prints. You wouldn't build a highly precise surgical robot and then install a dull scalpel blade, right? Get quality nozzles and treat them well. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 18:48
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I’m a resin guy so i’m shooting from the hip here, but (aside from material choice) the difference between a budget nozzle and a premium nozzle is largely going to be finish quality and consistency, right? So why not treat this like any other roughly-finished tool and just do the final finishing and QA yourself? I figure you have a couple ways to skin this cat, even for the small nozzle diameters; either a fabricated reamer or an abrasive solution should work and be quite accessible. the reamer will give better and more controllable results and you only have to make a tool once for a given orifice diameter, while the abrasive cord requires basically no prep but is less controllable and will favour abrading the orifice ends over the inner bore. - Delicate ‘finishing reamers’ are very easy to make if you have the right size of drill rod, you just make one cut where you grind a flat into the rod face at a fairly steep angle to produce a large oval ‘flat’ that tapers to a fine circular edge. they can remove very little material but they work well in a hole that just needs cleaning up, and theyre trivial to make yourself even with hand tools. Wish I could remember the proper name for them, I know instrument makers use them to finish the long inner bores of drilled woodwind instruments and the like. i would attempt this, assuming zero metalworking tools or knowledge, like so: buy a teeny tiny drill rod metric spread/find a broken drillbit shank in the right diameter, also find myself a sharpening stone/fine wet sandpaper on glass sheet/diamond lap etc etc, plus a boring old pink/white eraser. then i’d stick the rod through a the at the desired angle to ‘lock in’ and constrain the grinding angle for you, withdrawing it so only the edge of the end face is proud of the eraser block. then i’d tape over the block sole or wrap it in something so it glides freely over the abrasive. apply a few drops of water or oil to the abrasive block as appropriate, and make sure the rod is in the fluid puddle. now you can go to town sliding the block across the abrasive, applying light pressure from the end of the rod to keep it engaged. once you have an oval flat across the whole rod with sharp hair edges, you’re golden. - the other easy option is abrasive cord; they sell 0.012” impregnated cord on mcmaster carr for, like, $12 for 200 feet, i’m sure you can get it even cheaper elsewhere, and that should fit through most / all nozzles, right? this would do a very quick job of removing- or at least normalizing and reducing- any flashing or irregularities inside the bore and will let you put a very gentle, organic chamfer on the open ends to take care of any burrs. i can think of other ways i’d do this but either of the above probably cost like $20 to implement and don’t really require much else in the way of resources or skill sets e: oh yeah, you’ll probably also need a jeweller’s loupe or other decently-high magnification to actually inspect the nozzles and determine what needs fixing Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 20:17
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insta posted:guys do not buy the cheap nozzles on amazon ffs Yes please, specifically for MK8 nozzles of reasonably good quality. I've been buying my Prusa nozzles directly from Prusa but I don't yet have a known-good supplier for the E3v2. Presumably TH3D's are decent? What else should I be looking at? RabbitWizard posted:Seriously. Use Aliexpress. I paid 4 bucks including postage for 20 nozzles months ago and still have 15 left. Not to be a "please do everything for me" sort of guy, but can you link the supplier? As I wrote in the post that sparked this discussion, I've heard good things about TriangleLab's nozzles but I seem to only be able to buy a max of three at a time. If I'm paying for shipping and waiting a month, I'd like to get a dozen or more. Or just order from a reputable US-based supplier so it only takes a few days.
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Aug 17, 2021 20:23
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I ordered 10 nozzles from the creality store for $8 on Amazon, printing great so far, but I have less than 6 months in this hobby so adjust my opinion accordingly https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08FKXQ5GC/
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Aug 17, 2021 20:46
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I've been in this hobby off-and-on since 2015 and if you aren't printing abrasives the nozzles really shouldn't have to change all that often (assuming you're starting with a quality nozzle to begin with and weren't given a piece of poo poo nozzle from the seller/stock).
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Aug 17, 2021 20:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’m a resin guy so i’m shooting from the hip here, but (aside from material choice) the difference between a budget nozzle and a premium nozzle is largely going to be finish quality and consistency, right? So why not treat this like any other roughly-finished tool and just do the final finishing and QA yourself? You could certainly do all of that stuff, yep...or you could just buy a good nozzle off the bat. Yes, it's $8 for 1 nozzle vs $8 for 10 nozzles, but it's still 8 dollars in the end. As the above poster said, they don't wear out all that fast unless you're printing abrasive material. And if you are, an E3D NozzleX is like $20 and will last essentially forever. That's one of the few upgrades I have made to all my machines. All of the machines commonly recommended come with perfectly fine nozzles out of the box, too. Prusas use genuine E3D parts etc. That said -- I have also noticed that the cheap nozzles are getting better. People like to repeat dogma they've heard as if it's invariant and unquestionable, but the whole field of 3D printing is continuously changing. I remember seeing some truly heinous E3D knockoffs in like 2015, but more recent ones are much better made. I still stick with genuine nozzles because, again, it's a few dollars and I want to know the thing is properly made (see below picture of E3D testing their nozzles with an optical comparator). But it's likely that most of the cheap Amazon knockoffs are just fine, especially if you're not looking at your layer lines with a magnifying lens. "Good enough" is often...good enough. 
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Aug 17, 2021 21:39
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Nozzle X is a piece of crap. It's just tool steel with tungsten disulfide coating. Latter is supposed to be anti-stick, but got gunked up within three prints here. Just get a regular hardened steel nozzle, or one of the new fancy tungsten carbide ones (hard as gently caress, therefore relatively wear resistant, and way better thermal conductivity than the varying steel types).
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Aug 17, 2021 22:04
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Actually, I have had zero problems with my Nozzles X, so I think everything you're saying is a bunch of nonsense and a waste of money.
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Aug 17, 2021 22:25
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Because I am a penny-wise and pound foolish, I bought a $2000 lens and designed/printed a tripod gimbal head and flash extender for it.
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Aug 17, 2021 23:59
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Dia de Pikachutos posted:Because I am a penny-wise and pound foolish, I bought a $2000 lens and designed/printed a tripod gimbal head and flash extender for it. *Insert that scene from Naked Gun here*
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Aug 18, 2021 00:02
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becoming posted:Ender 3 sisters and bros - In sorting out a clogged nozzle on my E3v2, it occurred to me that I don't have any spares for it. I'd like to rectify that. Where are you buying your nozzles? I've read good things about TriangleLab's nozzles, but they appear to offer very limited quantities for purchase. If I'm going to wait a month for these to show up, I'd like to get a dozen and only ever have to wait that month once. If there's a particularly good product available from a US-based reseller and shipping won't be four weeks, I'm happy to deal in smaller quantities. Are TH3D's nozzles reliable quality? Any others I should look at? Not an Ender Bro, but buy a E3D NozzleX and forget about wear and most clogs.
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Aug 18, 2021 00:11
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Sockser posted:Fwiw, I use sketchup because I didn’t want to learn another piece of software. I’m able to do some basic bits and boxes and even a couple of neat things, but trust me you want a much much better tool for the job. I also use Sketchup because I am too lazy to change, and I find it works fine as long as you don't try to do anything too clever in it. Their drawing interface is very good for non-CAD brains IMO, but are more like 3D illustration software than parametric CAD. So unlike with proper CAD software, all changes are destructive, so the workflow is lovely as well. Another good reason to skip Sketchup in favour of something else. The free and paid versions are differentiated by the free version having its solid geometry functions disabled (so no union/difference/intersect/split). BUT there are a lot of plugin scripts that do enough stuff that I haven't bothered to learn fusion 360: - I use a plugin called 'booltools' that was like $10 or something that emulates solid geometry operations. It works - This dude has a bunch of plugin scripts that do nearly everything else I need (mostly bevels/rounded corners and lofting).
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Aug 18, 2021 00:22
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Dia de Pikachutos posted:I also use Sketchup because I am too lazy to change, and I find it works fine as long as you don't try to do anything too clever in it. Having never used sketchup, this is a surprising list of glaring flaws. the free level of onshape just does all that stuff already. that being said, that lens mount is dope so clearly sketchup works fine for the stuff it can do
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Aug 18, 2021 00:35
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please learn a real CAD package, it's for your own good
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Aug 18, 2021 00:57
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Do what you want as long as you have a CAD package that'll product manifold bodies, but if you ever intend on making an assembly or having someone make a thing for you, you'll have a hell of a time without using some parametric package. I used to freelance design and fabricate stuff on 3D printers and CNC machines, and I'd charge an awful lot more for dinner giving me a Sketchup or Blender file than none at all. It's a huge pain in the rear end.
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Aug 18, 2021 01:35
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BMan posted:please learn a real CAD package, it's for your own good You're not my real dad
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Aug 18, 2021 03:18
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SMDH at the lengths people will go to avoid paying $40 for a year's access to Solidworks via the EAA.org access path. Might want to hurry though. They're updating the language to be about the 3dExperience Maker's edition on EAA (though the links still point to the Student Premium download).
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Aug 18, 2021 10:37
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becoming posted:Yes please, specifically for MK8 nozzles of reasonably good quality. I've been buying my Prusa nozzles directly from Prusa but I don't yet have a known-good supplier for the E3v2. Presumably TH3D's are decent? What else should I be looking at? Oh yeah, I buy quality nozzles for the Prusa. I'd like to hear recommendations on that too.
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Aug 18, 2021 11:33
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I got an email from EAA saying that it will be a 50% discount on 3dexperience instead of free Solidworks starting today.
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Aug 18, 2021 20:15
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’m a resin guy so i’m shooting from the hip here, but (aside from material choice) the difference between a budget nozzle and a premium nozzle is largely going to be finish quality and consistency, right? So why not treat this like any other roughly-finished tool and just do the final finishing and QA yourself? Because the cheap nozzles are $0.37 each and the right nozzles are $3 each, and transforming a cheap nozzle to the right nozzle takes more than $2.63 worth of my time, by a long shot. Here are domestic vendors of nozzles (mostly stolen from the Voron Discord vendors): * https://deepfriedhero.in/products/plated-copper-nozzle-v6 * https://www.fabreeko.com/products/copy-of-phaetus-harden-steel-nozzle-v6-nozzles?variant=38322166137030 If you have the time to wait, get whatever you want from the TriangleLab Aliexpress store. They're an RUNICE reseller, and the parts are perfect.
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Aug 18, 2021 20:28
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My $117 ender 3 pro from the sketchy Walmart.com 3rd party seller was delivered today. It was a brand new sealed ender 3 pro and not a scam! It took me about an hour to slap it together and I installed the upgraded metal extruder and Capricorn tube that was recommended. Half-rear end leveled the bed with a business card and loaded the trial filament that came in the box and am currently printing a 50% scale benchy. I still need to install the stornger bed springs at some point but I wanted to be sure it worked first.    Edit: competed half scale benchy 
my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Aug 18, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 23:25
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 yeah, that first layer looks leveled with a business card alright. I suggest replacing the springs and leveling it correctly with a receipt or something that isn't 8x as thick as the gap you actually want otherwise that benchy looks ~ok beyond being tiny and printed at a thick layer height. It's not an ISSUE but tends to look terrible insta posted:Because the cheap nozzles are $0.37 each and the right nozzles are $3 each, and transforming a cheap nozzle to the right nozzle takes more than $2.63 worth of my time, by a long shot. And the point of buying the 37 cent ones is that if there are duds in the package you throw them out; doing any kind of refurb work on those would be ridiculous. (I have yet to encounter a dud, ymmv) Javid fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 01:43
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becoming posted:Not to be a "please do everything for me" sort of guy, but can you link the supplier? As I wrote in the post that sparked this discussion, I've heard good things about TriangleLab's nozzles but I seem to only be able to buy a max of three at a time. If I'm paying for shipping and waiting a month, I'd like to get a dozen or more. Or just order from a reputable US-based supplier so it only takes a few days. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1504095/search?SearchText=nozzle https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1905393/search?SearchText=nozzle
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Aug 19, 2021 10:10
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Finally got around to getting a wash and cure station, taking the chance to re-evaluate my post print process. I still can't find a reliable source of 95%+ IPA nor can I find Mean Green offline. Been using Everclear, is that still my best bet? I've seen acetone suggested, but don't know if that's actually a good idea or just people loving around, getting passable results, and preaching their new solution. Acetone breaks down nitrile and thus requires different gloves. When should I remove supports? I used to print -> drip dry -> remove from build plate -> remove supports -> wash -> cure. Removing supports after curing would be a harder material, but would allow more care and closer cuts.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:13
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Serenade posted:Mean Green offline You can buy this by the gallon at any Home Depot or Lowes. Hell, I'm pretty sure I've seen this at bulk stores like Sam's and Costco.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:25
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Serenade posted:Finally got around to getting a wash and cure station, taking the chance to re-evaluate my post print process. Somebody (Uncle Jessie maybe?) did a video about alternatives to IPA and they found Denatured Alcohol to be as good or better and easier to acquire than IPA (unless you're in California, where it's not for sale). I personally: Print -> place entire build plate into washing station for 3 minutes -> remove from build plate directly into second wash bucket -> remove supports -> dunk in second wash -> air dry -> cure
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Aug 19, 2021 16:51
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Dia de Pikachutos posted:You're not my real cad
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Aug 19, 2021 17:35
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I just buy ruby nozzles and throw them away if I ever have a problem or anything looks weird and on every full moon. I'm not going to go through the effort to Blingee a picture of an ender 3 but you can imagine it here in my terrible joke post.
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Aug 19, 2021 18:12
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Serenade posted:Finally got around to getting a wash and cure station, taking the chance to re-evaluate my post print process. Acetone does work better than IPA from everything I've seen, but as you identified is more hazardous, smelly, and difficult to handle. My workflow: Print (I use flexi plates) > wash 1 (dirtier IPA) > Wash 2 (pretty much clean IPA) > Let dry for 30 minutes to an hour > remove supports > cure Removing supports when the figure is still kind of soft before it dries fully has the best results in my experience. But if you remove them any time before curing you should be fine.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:04
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Serenade posted:Finally got around to getting a wash and cure station, taking the chance to re-evaluate my post print process. i use fireplace fuel and am very happy with it, it's an ethanol-isopropanol blend that only has a small fraction of ISO (less than 10% iirc) as the denaturing agent. i find it cleans better than pure ISO, it only costs like $30 for a bigass multi-litre jug at the hardware store, and as a nice ancillary bonus it's safer to use because its flame is highly visible compared to ISO's (which is a dim blue that's often near-invisible in well-lit environments) acetone is extremely effective and even works well even on extremely persistent engineering resins that usually require brush-cleaning after an alcohol soak, but i wouldn't use it if you have your printer in your home/don't have a dedicated ventilation setup for your workspace; it's a lot more unpleasant to work with, but it's also far more volatile/has a vapor pressure at least 5x alcohol's, which means it will get into the air in a greater volume and will bypass the lid gaskets in wash tubs much better. if you're working with resin indoors you should always have an eye towards reducing VOC emissions, not increasing them.
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Aug 19, 2021 20:56
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Any ideas why my prints keep failing like this? Started when I switched from Sirayatech Fast to Anycubic Eco. Printer settings should be the same according to internet, ambient temp is 80°F. The piece is supposed to be angled like that; it looks like the supports just stopped at some point and the piece couldn't support itself at a certain point and just broke up 
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Aug 20, 2021 00:39
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Run an exposure test any time you try new resin. YMMV with it compared to the inter webs.
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Aug 20, 2021 03:06
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I bought a factory-second powder-coated satin steel sheet from Prusa for my i3 MK3S+ with the purpose of using it as my default PETG plate. Holy poo poo, this thing is like magic: perfect adhesion (Prusament PETG), but when it cools the prints just slide right off. I'm about to try a bigger print with some cheaper Inland PETG+ I got on clearance and will report back if it's any different, but when using The Good Stuff, it's incredible.
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Aug 20, 2021 05:07
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