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You have to slap it on harder
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Aug 16, 2021 18:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:Except with oil still oozing through it because there's not a goddamn thing out there that will seal an already-wet surface. Silicone self-healing tape will do it, but I can't imagine how you'd apply that to an oil drain plug.
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Aug 16, 2021 18:12
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Cage posted:Did you check amazon? They do free shipping on orders over $35 and have quite a bit of automotive parts. That seems to be exactly what I need, thank you.
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Aug 16, 2021 19:41
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Can anyone that's sat in a C8 comment on its roominess compared to the 6 and 7? I can't even find one to sit in. I'm 6'5" and fit okay in the C6 but the one time I tried to sit in a C7 I sat down in the seat and tried to swing my legs in and my knees hit the dash where it starts to swoop back into the door, literally couldn't get my legs in. It's possible I could have gotten in with the old one leg at a time method but I never tried.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:39
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I thought it was your dick that was big, not your legs?
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Aug 17, 2021 01:47
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bird is big in many ways
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Aug 17, 2021 04:57
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I want to start looking at newer, sportier cars than my daily and I like the idea of going back to a stick. Problem is the manual is dying in the US more every year. So my question is this, have any of you gone from a stick to a flappy paddle gearbox in a modern sports car and feel like it scratches the itch, or should I just banish myself to muscle/WRX/Golf land if I want something fun I can feel connected to?
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Aug 17, 2021 16:25
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The flappy paddles don't scratch the itch, but I find that a combination of being older, and automatic transmissions being so much better these days, I don't miss rowing my own gears. Modern transmissions are so much better than the old 4 speed autos of 20 years ago. I've probably used the flappy paddles less than 10 times in 7 years in my current car. There's a sport setting on the transmission that holds gears longer and acts similar to the way I'd control the transmission manually, so it's been fine for what I want. I drove nothing but stick the first 10 years of my life, but I just don't miss it like some folks seem to. I don't have a fun 2nd/3rd car though. If I was buying a toy, I'm 50/50 on if I'd get the manual transmission or not. I've been kicking the idea of buying a Mustang as a 2nd car for a couple years now, and the 10 speed I had in a rental Mustang was really good. Strangely I have this nagging desire to teach my kids to drive a stick like my parents did with me, even though there's a 99% chance they'll never be in the position to need to drive a manual transmission vehicle. edit: That being said, if you want a manual transmission vehicle, you better get one while they're still around. In my case, the next gen Mustang coming next year might be one of the last times you can get a new vehicle with a V8 and a manual transmission. The take rate on manuals keeps dropping and sooner or later they might disappear completely. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 16:45
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Anyone ever had an intermittent oil burning problem? My 12 GTI (116k miles) had the oil separator replaced in May for what was a little over 1qt/1k mile oil burn. I checked after 400 miles and oil was still at the max hatch marks. 1500 miles later and I noticed a dip in gas mileage so I checked again and I was down 2qts. I filled back up to max hash and after 100 miles found I was down nearly 1/2qt. I filled it back up once more, drove 150 miles and its still at the top of max hash. Im getting it checked out later this week but wanted to get some thoughts here. Hot weather, harder acceleration, something else that would cause this? Ive been having other problems with it recently and if this one isnt simple I might cave and look for a replacement car even with the absurd prices.
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Aug 17, 2021 16:57
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Rolo posted:I want to start looking at newer, sportier cars than my daily and I like the idea of going back to a stick. Problem is the manual is dying in the US more every year. I went from a manual GTI to an auto 3 Series. I miss the manual all the time. The paddles don't have the same feedback, the eight gears are close together and are too smooth, it just feels like tapping a button instead of shifting gears, the sport auto mode is as good around town. Maybe if I tracked the car, but it's just "tap, tap, tap, tap, tap" until I get up to speed and then not much else. 99% of the time, I just use it to downshift for engine braking. (The gearbox itself is amazing, I have no issues with how it drives.) I almost immediately started thinking about getting a 2nd fun car. That said I took it on the highways around Chicago at night and it was a blast. Just high speed shifts around sweeping curves and up on ramps. It worked beautifully there.
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Aug 17, 2021 18:07
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Rolo posted:I want to start looking at newer, sportier cars than my daily and I like the idea of going back to a stick. Problem is the manual is dying in the US more every year. I bought a FiST  if I had the space/money/flexibility to have a(nother) single purpose car itd probably be an MX5 if I needed it to also pull Daily/Grocery Getter duty Id wait for the new manual Civic hatches to come out. That + the $40k to swing it and Id be in a Type R in a heartbeat. Honestly if your concern is manuals dying out/becoming rare Id steer you toward a Honda over a VW/Ford Are you looking for more of a Sporty Daily or is this strictly gonna serve as a weekend partner to your existing car?
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Aug 17, 2021 19:24
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Leaning towards a single sporty daily. That said, I do not drive a lot for work, maybe 5k miles a year if that, so it doesnt have to be particularly traffic-comfortable. I would like a sedan with a real trunk though.
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Aug 17, 2021 19:37
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M340i, and if that's too much money GLI/Civic Si/WRX are all available as sedans with a Real Transmission
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Aug 17, 2021 20:17
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:M340i Theres no manual on the M340i, otherwise itd be perfect. Now the M240i, that did come with a manual until the new 2022 model The incoming Civic Si is gonna be sweet Good looking sedans are cool and all, but Ill always be a hatch and wagon-loving Jalop at heart
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Aug 17, 2021 21:49
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oh poo poo for some reason I though they kept it Looks like it's CT-5 Blackwing or M3 time
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Aug 17, 2021 22:00
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Yea I looked at those BMWs but the 3 would have been out of budget regardless and the 2022 M240i has to have some catch for being that price. I assumed it would be tiny in person. They dont even call it a sedan, its a 4 door coupe. I think Im gonna lean toward a WRX if the 2022 ends up being cool or a 2019-2021 deal pops up. Rolo fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 22:06
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Rolo posted:Yea I looked at those BMW’s but the 3 would have been out of budget regardless and the 2022 M240i has to have some catch for being that price. Id look at used manual M240is, you can get em in the $25-45k range But also Im really smitten with the new Civics and Im so excited to see what the type R/Si bring
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Aug 18, 2021 02:31
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Trailer tire/driving question: My wife asked me about what she should do if she's driving the horse trailer (2 axle trailer) and a tire blows out or loses pressure and I couldn't really say much other than "slow down". I told her that if she's driving with the trailer without horses, that she should keep driving (but slower at 50mph?) until there's a safe place to pull over or get off the highway to change tires. If she has horses in back, to slow down (30-40mph?) until she can safely stop or get off the highway. The tires are only two years old and we keep them at the proper pressures, but she's about to go on a 4-5hr drive with her friend and their horses so I'd rather give her an actual answer if someone has a better idea.
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Aug 18, 2021 02:43
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That's basically right, but there's a crucial part - of a blowout occurs, you should accelerate slightly until you have control of the trailer. Then slowly back off to a point where you can pull over and evaluate. Don't brake until below 20 mph if it can be helped. This will help massively to avoid sudden changes in attitude from the trailer. The same principal applies when you're not towing, especially with vehicles with high sidewalls.
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Aug 18, 2021 04:10
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Is there a substantial difference between H and V rated tires in normal driving? My car (a 2015 Mazda 3) came with V rated tires that need replacement, and one of the better reviewed sets of tires in the correct size is H rated. Since I don't do anything more extreme than interstate driving, the car never gets above about 85mph, so I'd assume the speed rating doesn't matter, but I didn't know if there was some fundamental difference between the two that I'm overlooking.
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Aug 18, 2021 05:02
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Rolo posted:
The new BRZ is coming out, and it still has the manual transmission. I can tell you from experience the old style are fun as poo poo to drive. Not very practical though.
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Aug 18, 2021 13:33
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Cooling system question: gently caress Jaguar.
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Aug 18, 2021 14:16
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Rolo posted:Yea I looked at those BMWs but the 3 would have been out of budget regardless and the 2022 M240i has to have some catch for being that price. no no no do not buy the 2 series Gran Coupe, only buy the 2 series regular coupe
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Aug 18, 2021 15:13
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two_beer_bishes posted:Trailer tire/driving question: You already got good advice on how to drive, but to prevent the most likely cause of a blowout I really suggest a trailer TPMS system like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tymate-Tire-...29302539&sr=8-3 I only recently found out these were a thing (and relatively inexpensive). Knowing these exist I would absolutely positively not run a trailer long distance without one. Especially a horse trailer.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:04
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Actual cooling system question (with a side of rant): My beloved Jaguar XK8 convertible (MY2000, 4.0L AJ-V8 NA, ~82,000 miles) has the stupidest loving cooling system known to man and I loving hate it. Supposedly, the design principle was to get the engine up to temperature as quickly as possible such that Jaguar Man could slither his way around ol' blighty looking for cougars upon whom he could pounce - top down, frigid Thatcherian wind in his (remaining) hair - his turgid will reinforced by a near instantaneous furnace-like blast from the excellent heating system. Well the thing is - the heater is excellent and gets up to temp quickly - because the loving engine bay is ultra cramped and has barely any airflow. All of the sound deadening further enhances thermal insulation. The air intake at the front is loving tiny (gets reduced even further if you put a license plate on as is mandatory in my state) and all of this is further isolated from air at the sides and rear with a thick rubber seal. On top of all of that, I believe the circulated coolant volume is too low. I "believe" this because of the entirely predictable "Engine Coolant Low" warnings, when the engine coolant is *not* low. Here's how it typically goes down: 1). Engine stone cold - say, parked overnight. Or for loving 10 days even. 2). Check coolant reservoir. It's near the firewall on the driver side, about the size of a loving butter tub. It's full (to the bottom of the filler neck). Like, any more coolant and it'll overflow when I screw the cap in. 3). Start engine, drive around for a while, say, 40mph+ consistently. All is well. OBD temps say 198-203. 4). I stop the car briefly - or hit bad traffic for a period of... let's say 5+ minutes of either condition. Temps get above 210. Fans come on. ENGINE COOLANT LOW. 5). I go back to highway/faster driving, temps drop back down to normal range, eventually the alarm goes away. Maybe 10-15 minutes after dropping back to 203 or so. So I went on the Jaguar Forums, folks there said "replace the reservoir". Did that last year. They said "replace the cap with a Jaguar OEM part". Did that ($56, lol). "Replace the sensor - it's sticking". It was replaced with the bottle last year. And it's not sticking. Finally they said to check the coolant overflow tank - this is an extra coolant bottle that lives in the passenger side front wheel well, behind the wheel arch cover. So I took a look at the tank and it's fine (Not sure what I am looking for - there's no leaks - it had about a pint of coolant in it, hoses looked fine). So yeah, not sure what to do from here. I'm sick as gently caress of getting the "ENGINE COOLANT LOW" warning. I've replaced the bottle, cap, sensor - I haven't replaced the overflow tank (doesn't look like it needs it anyways) and while I suppose I could replace the hoses that lead there I don't know what it would do. There don't seem to be any leaks (I'm not losing coolant). I'm genuinely tempted to go shopping for another bottle to replace the main reservoir - but rather than one that holds maybe 2 pints I get one from a loving F250 or something. I'm also not sure if I'll gain anything out of posting this other than just venting but I don't have a therapist so if anyone wants to give me a hearty "there, there" I'll take that too. sarcastx fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Aug 18, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 17:17
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I'm going to repaint the roof (just between the rails, everything else is fine) on my 2007 Tacoma double cab myself. The entire clear coat is gone, but only in a couple small spots has the paint flaked/abraded off to metal, and what little rust there is is only surface, maybe a couple dime-sized patches. I don't have access to a sprayer, so it'll have to be rattle canned. I'm not a fantastic painter but good enough for my own satisfaction. I really can't afford to have it done professionally. I found a local auto paint supplier that will match OEM codes, and I assume he'll have all the right sand, prep, and final finish materials as well. So my questions: Do I need to sand every bit of the surface I'll be painting down to bare metal? Does 1 can of primer, 2 cans base, 1 can clear coat sound right? I'm guessing it's about 25 sq feet. Should my primer be 2K? I plan on 2K clear, is that a good choice for longevity? I'll likely have 3 cans of base charged since that's a pint and it'll be good to have more for such as doorjamb touchups over the years.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:20
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sarcastx posted:Actual cooling system question (with a side of rant): Sorry if this seems stupid but is there a level marker on the overflow tank? I would expect to see like min/max levels on that and maybe you're a little low and when your thermostat is wide open the levels drop too much.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:33
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry if this seems stupid but is there a level marker on the overflow tank? I would expect to see like min/max levels on that and maybe you're a little low and when your thermostat is wide open the levels drop too much. So the reservoir (the one intended for typical access by the owner) is by the windshield, driver side, and is opaque black with no viewing/marker/transparency (which is part of why I hate the stupid thing). This is why it's considered "full" when the coolant is at the bottom of the filler neck. The overflow tank is the one that requires removing the passenger front wheel and wheel arch lining - and while it is transparent, it has no markings.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:36
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sarcastx posted:So the reservoir (the one intended for typical access by the owner) is by the windshield, driver side, and is opaque black with no viewing/marker/transparency (which is part of why I hate the stupid thing). This is why it's considered "full" when the coolant is at the bottom of the filler neck. Is there a cap on the radiator itself or just on that black tank?
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Aug 18, 2021 17:46
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sarcastx posted:Actual cooling system question (with a side of rant): Several things at play here. 1. Have you tried considering the finest in British electrical systems in your car? 2. Sounds like a fucky ground somewhere when the fans are kicking on. Maybe block. Maybe chassis. Its a XK, probably all of them. 3. Test the level sender for high/low operation at both stone cold, 200F and 210F. 4. Chase and test the sender's wiring at the bcm/pcm at cold/hot operation. 4a. if you happen to find broken or intermittent open circuits, you're going harness spelunking. chafing or a dodgy crimp. 5. Check all return paths in the main body harness involving anything that touches the coolant level sender. 6. Use a VW B4 coolant bottle for improved reliability  (Funny you mention one from a F250, I ran one in a P38 rangie for a few years with good success over the oem bmw piece of poo poo) 7 and maybe 8. That's in the year range for needing its camchains, tensioners, and guides updated. VelociBacon posted:Is there a cap on the radiator itself or just on that black tank? Its British. the whole loving thing is black as an engine bay suffering from electrical fire. The electronics check the level for you! lmao.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:55
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VelociBacon posted:Is there a cap on the radiator itself or just on that black tank? Just on the tank. I've also gone chasing for air bubbles doing this whole song and dance a couple times, if that helps. 
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Aug 18, 2021 17:56
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two_beer_bishes posted:Trailer tire/driving question: Motronic posted:You already got good advice on how to drive, but to prevent the most likely cause of a blowout I really suggest a trailer TPMS system like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tymate-Tire-...29302539&sr=8-3 TBH I'm considering getting a set of compatible in-wheel sensors installed next time I get new summer tires because this thing gives me temperature and actual per-tire pressure rather than just a stupid loving light telling me to go figure out which one's not right. azflyboy posted:Is there a substantial difference between H and V rated tires in normal driving? My car (a 2015 Mazda 3) came with V rated tires that need replacement, and one of the better reviewed sets of tires in the correct size is H rated. Higher speed rated tires in general tend to be more performance-optimized but that is by no means a hard rule. There are certainly H rated tires that are better than V rated competitors in ways other than top speed capabilities.
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Aug 18, 2021 18:29
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azflyboy posted:Is there a substantial difference between H and V rated tires in normal driving? My car (a 2015 Mazda 3) came with V rated tires that need replacement, and one of the better reviewed sets of tires in the correct size is H rated. I think the speed governor is just below H rating anyway, depending on your engine. If you ever sell the car, just put a sticker on the dash that says do not exceed 130mph
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Aug 18, 2021 18:42
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Mr. Wiggles posted:That's basically right, but there's a crucial part - of a blowout occurs, you should accelerate slightly until you have control of the trailer. Then slowly back off to a point where you can pull over and evaluate. Don't brake until below 20 mph if it can be helped. This will help massively to avoid sudden changes in attitude from the trailer. The same principal applies when you're not towing, especially with vehicles with high sidewalls. Thanks for that addition! Motronic posted:You already got good advice on how to drive, but to prevent the most likely cause of a blowout I really suggest a trailer TPMS system like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tymate-Tire-...29302539&sr=8-3 We do have one of those, I think I was actually the one who started that discussion a while ago. It works great and it's no nice being able to watch pressures/temps on longer drives. wolrah posted:Horses or not, if you have a blowout or have lost enough pressure that you can tell without actually measuring the correct answer is always to stop as soon as safely possible. This is something that I've found a lot of people who aren't car/machine people don't understand in the same way. I know a lot of people who would hear that and take it as "slow down but keep driving until it's convenient to stop" as opposed to the correct interpretation of "stop as soon as you can do so safely, only go on if you are on a bridge, in a construction zone, or otherwise do not have a safe place to stop on at all". I appreciate you pointing this out. My wife does 99% of the hauling and this is very much something she's aware of. A bunch of construction on their normal route is was sparked this conversation between us. She's smart as gently caress and has good instincts, but neither of us have actually dealt with a blowout personally.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:07
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wolrah posted:
Thanks a lot for the explanation.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:16
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What are the pros and cons of having roof rails? How painful would it be to remove/replace them later? We're buying a crossover and they aren't budging on price so we're asking them to throw in roof rails.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:40
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They will causes additional NVH/wind noise and reduce your gas mileage to some extent.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:48
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Vegetable posted:What are the pros and cons of having roof rails? How painful would it be to remove/replace them later? We're buying a crossover and they aren't budging on price so we're asking them to throw in roof rails. Make/model makes a *big* difference; case in point: several Subarus come with built-in retractable roof rails, to which you attach your accessories. If they told you they'll give you the rails (but not the bars) then they're bragging about something you're getting for free anyways. For some cars they just fold out of the way, for others there's a specific size torx tool or weird proprietary key you need to use.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:52
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wolrah posted:I know a lot of people who would hear that and take it as "slow down but keep driving until it's convenient to stop" as opposed to the correct interpretation of "stop as soon as you can do so safely, only go on if you are on a bridge, in a construction zone, or otherwise do not have a safe place to stop on at all". My mother  .She's called me, given a vague description that sounded like a check engine or oil light, said she had to be somewhere, and drove the car anyway. (one of the doors wasn't fully closed and it was an open door light) Thankfully she has a smartphone now and can text me a photo.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:35
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cursedshitbox posted:Several things at play here. Looks like I missed this post while I was replying to the other one (just saw it this morning). Hadn't considered an electrical gremlin which - yeah, it's a Jaguar, but it's a Ford Jaguar so I figured this was less likely as 1990s Ford reliability was a remarkable step up for them. Will break out the multimeter this weekend. quote:6. Use a VW B4 coolant bottle for improved reliability (opens Google Images) OOOOOOOOH THAT LOOKS FANTASTIC. edit: I will have to look at my options for sensing coolant level though - do you know if the VW sensor is electrically comparable, or if the existing Jag one fits? quote:7 and maybe 8. That's in the year range for needing its camchains, tensioners, and guides updated. Been there, done that - had a mate's shop sort that out the first week that I had the car. Didn't have the mechanical cojones to try a job like that one at the time - and while I might try it today, I still don't have the proprietary tools used throughout the process. ALSO WHAT WOULD WE PUT TIMING MARKS ON THE ENGINE FOR? WHY WOULD YOU NEED TO TOUCH THE TIMING? 
sarcastx fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 12:49
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