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That warning is for when the new generation Ryzens (5xxx series) came out and motherboards still had an old BIOS on them. 9 months later... all boards will most likely have the correct bios for you to plug and play the processor, especially a b550 chipset.
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Aug 18, 2021 16:33
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Ibuypower may be different from when you last bought. Yeah, I have no counterclaims to this, I can only offer my own experiences with them. I bought one in November 2011 (I remember because Skyrim was an 11-11 release) that still POSTs in March of 2021, but I built a few for friends and family between 2012 and now simply because I like doing it and learning. In March I bought another and not only did it come well-packed to protect components, but I stripped it and put each piece back in before I ever plugged it in, and it has been on and running very well beside occasional restarts from updating or compatibility issues with ancient software on a floppy disk  . Zero issues and high quality components without stuff like “1 stick of RAM” or “cheap PSU.” I also understand that I may just have lucked out.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:16
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Augus posted:Thanks for the quick replies! Sample size of 1, but I bought that combo a few weeks back and it just worked.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:35
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:What does HWiNFO list your memory's speed at in its summary? Should be 1800 MHz for DDR4-3600. It's possible that the bios is only reporting the stock config for your memory but it's running appropriately in windows. Sorry for the cell phone pic of the screen, but snip isn't working for some reason. Here's what is showing in windows for my memory:  I wonder if anything is being changed automatically because those timings are also not what the memory has and different from what shows in the bios as well (18-22-22).
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Aug 18, 2021 18:01
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PageMaster posted:Sorry for the cell phone pic of the screen, but snip isn't working for some reason. Here's what is showing in windows for my memory: Do you have 2x16 or 4x8? Either way, it looks like XMP isn’t adjusting your ram properly (this can happen for a number of reasons, none your fault). That number should read ~1800mhz for 3600 ram. You may need to manually adjust rather than use XMP.
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Aug 18, 2021 18:59
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I feel like 700 bucks is a lot for a 3060 too although I'm not clear if you've already pulled the trigger on that. something like this deal: https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/aw...aign=2021-08-18 (UK obviously just for comparison) with 60 pound ram upgrade is going to perform much better in gaming scenarios except VRAM bound ones and maaaaybe some high frame rate 1080. the jump from 60->60ti is one of the sharpest this gen by a lot of reviewers telling.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:04
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Do you have 2x16 or 4x8? 2x16. I can go and manually set the mclock and fclock at 1800. Not sure if I leave the adjusted timings or manually set those back to the specs. If I make adjustments, do I turn xmp off? Bios let's me keep xmp enabled while setting frequency.
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Aug 18, 2021 19:07
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PageMaster posted:2x16. I can go and manually set the mclock and fclock at 1800. Not sure if I leave the adjusted timings or manually set those back to the specs. I’m not in my area here, so I’ll defer to others in this thread, or recommend you ask in the OC thread. For the quickest answer you can try googling “your motherboard memory overclock” In other news, fractals new high range case seems very very good if someone is in the market. https://youtu.be/HBxo2_lwKps
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Aug 18, 2021 19:48
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Not sure if this is the right thread to ask, but: I'd like to get better surge protection in front of my electronics. I've been on a bit of a voice controlled electronics kick so ideally the surge protector would be integrated into a smart strip or plug. The other big feature I'd like from the surge protector is that the strip or plug completely stop working when they're no longer protecting. A malfunction light is useless, I'll never see it. Better it just refuse to turn on so I can replace it. The TP-Link Kasa smart strips (3 & 6 ports) seem to be rated at 1750 Joules but I can't find much on them as far as surge protection goes, including what happens after the surge protector is blown. Any ideas/advice here? Am I better off looking at whole house protection at the curb? E: the highly rated non-smart protectors I can find are all either 3-6 port monstrosities or are single port devices that can only do limited protection (200J range). Are there single port devices with high protection? v1ld fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Aug 18, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 20:22
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I don’t have a rec, but frankly I’d not want my PC hooked up to something that may shut off power to it. It’s a recipe for data corruption or power related issues with cheaper components. That being said, if you really want to do this you may have a better result getting a single smart outlet and plugging a normal, well rated surge protector into it for smart control.
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Aug 18, 2021 20:44
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Fixed my memory frequency issue. In a desperate bid to just try anything I moved the two sticks from the mobo recommended slots to the other two and xmp works just fine now 
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Aug 18, 2021 21:09
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:So my friend is looking into building a modest PC. Here are the details: Any help with this? Or are the prices for graphics cards so hosed that trying to make a decent PC at this price is just not possible right now?
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Aug 18, 2021 21:12
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For the sims and gloomhaven I would look into an integrated graphics CPU. Maybe a 3200g or 3400g for the processor? It's impossible to stay in a 600-800 budget right now with a dedicated graphics card. But those games don't really need much to run either if that's all they are doing.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:18
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Any help with this? Or are the prices for graphics cards so hosed that trying to make a decent PC at this price is just not possible right now? Honestly, for $600-800 you should probably grab a 1050ti or 970 for like $150 or put that money towards a Ryzen 5000 series CPU with integrated graphics and slot something dedicated in later. Neither of those has particularly high requirements...
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Aug 18, 2021 21:18
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^that would be an option to if you can find a 1050Ti for $150. I wasn't aware even those were available right now haha.
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Aug 18, 2021 21:22
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Thom P. Tiers posted:^that would be an option to if you can find a 1050Ti for $150. I wasn't aware even those were available right now haha. There have been a few up for sale on Reddit and the Ebay prices are trending that way, I picked one up for $165 (before shipping) for a friend this month
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Aug 18, 2021 21:25
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Any help with this? Or are the prices for graphics cards so hosed that trying to make a decent PC at this price is just not possible right now? If this were a year ago I would've recommended a 1660 Super build, which could easily be gotten for $800 or less.These days, it's probably not worth trying to build a PC for that price. Here's what I would call a somewhat decent barebones kit, something you could put a GPU of your choice into: CPU: Intel Core i5-10400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($150.99 @ Adorama) Motherboard: ASRock B560M-HDV Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($71.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Walmart) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA BQ 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($49.59 @ Amazon) Total: $542.53 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-08-18 17:36 EDT-0400 These are by and large acceptable midrange parts. Everyone's all about the Ryzen 5600X these days, but that ranges from $270 to $300 depending on when you buy it, and the motherboards are more expensive too. That makes AMD a poor choice for midrange budget builds, unfortunately. (Though for super tight budgets, the 3300X or even 3100X are viable options.) In almost every game, there will be barely any difference between the 10400 and more expensive chips when paired with a midrange or budget GPU, making it a fine CPU to use here. Plus some pretty decent memory, a pretty good SSD, and a case that's relatively affordable but still performs quite well thermally. This leaves you with $250 for a GPU while staying within your budget. There aren't really any good value cards for that price point available on the second-hand market, though (even when adjusting expectations for the current market madness). As stated above, the GTX 970 is somewhat decent at $150, compared to the rest of the market, but I wouldn't buy the 1050 ti for the same price (it's much worse). Step up to the Geforce GTX 980 or maybe the Radeon RX 580, and that's $100 more on ebay for about 15% more performance. It's hard to say that's worth it if your friend would be okay with a 970. So if your friend really wants to build something in this market, maybe stick with the 970 for now. It would at the very least play The Sims 4 just fine. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 18, 2021 22:57
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I think this is a pretty standard build except I'm including a wireless card since I have bluetooth headphones I'd like to connect and I'm planning on going with 32GB of RAM for some container workflows that get annoying with less. I'd also like to have a front USB C port. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming (Factorio, Minecraft, random AAA games a few years after they come out), random programming personal projects, some of which use containers hence the extra RAM. I'd also like to start getting into digital photography. What's your budget? Under $1500 but I'm not replacing my GPU If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I have a 1440p monitor. I do not care about 60FPS, just that things are playable at a not stick figure graphics. I'm replacing a build with a i7-4770k and a 1080. I thought upgrading the graphics card in the middle of the life of the build was a little silly and reckless at the time but I'm very pleased with that decision in retrospect. Am I going to regret taking a case without a external 5.25" drive? It feels weird not to have one, but I cannot remember the last time I used it on my current build. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($288.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($164.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($174.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Walmart) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB MINI Video Card Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($151.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Wireless Network Adapter: MSI AX905C PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1019.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-08-18 20:06 EDT-0400
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Aug 19, 2021 04:42
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Do you need a lot of hard drive slots? Because the Meshify 2 is a relatively huge case meant to house like 8 drives. Most people are happy with the Meshify 2 Compact.
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Aug 19, 2021 04:51
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Mu Zeta posted:Do you need a lot of hard drive slots? Because the Meshify 2 is a relatively huge case meant to house like 8 drives. Most people are happy with the Meshify 2 Compact. Ah, that's a good call. I'll only be moving over two drives: an SSD and a spinny so the non-compact is probably overkill.
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Aug 19, 2021 05:33
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bergeoisie posted:I think this is a pretty standard build except I'm including a wireless card since I have bluetooth headphones I'd like to connect and I'm planning on going with 32GB of RAM for some container workflows that get annoying with less. I'd also like to have a front USB C port. So get a Motherboard with built in wifi and save yourself the cash for the extra card
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Aug 19, 2021 11:05
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bergeoisie posted:Am I going to regret taking a case without a external 5.25" drive? It feels weird not to have one, but I cannot remember the last time I used it on my current build. Edit: I guess the one context where it's nice to have bays today is hot-swappable drives? roomforthetuna fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 12:55
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I have not used a disc drive of any kind in a computer for a decade now, and there hasn't been anything I need or want to do that I can't because of it.
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Aug 19, 2021 13:19
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bergeoisie posted:Am I going to regret taking a case without a external 5.25" drive? It feels weird not to have one, but I cannot remember the last time I used it on my current build. I specced and ordered my previous PC in 2012, and specifically included a 5,25" DVD drive. I can remember only one time I actually used it, and the total amount of times I did so can probably be counted in the digits of two hands, at most. Unless you actually need one now (as in, use it currently), you probably will never use one otherwise, and can just buy a couple of blank USB sticks for things like bootable Windows etc. Even if you do end up needing one, they can be had externally for as low as 50 dollars, if my Newegg search is accurate. Also the 5600X owns, I'm super happy with it and my Dark Rock 4 cooler on top, a better spend for the money saved in the Wi-Fi card if you get Wi-Fi in your motherboard + the 5,25" drive
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Aug 19, 2021 14:05
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I recently rebuilt my new system into a slightly bigger case due to finally finding a 30xx card on-shelf at my local Microcenter for a price that was still extortionate but had finally dipped into the range where I was willing to do it. Finally every single component in my new system is truly new - no holdovers from the prior version. However, I wanted to check with this great thread if the CPU/GPU temps I'm seeing when gaming are okay. Idle temps are just fine, but when lots of onscreen stuff is happening the CPU seems to peak up to around 70C and the GPU to 73 or 74. Does that seem okay, or should I work on airflow a bit more? (CPU is a 5600x with a Scythe Mugen 5 cooler if I remember correctly, and GPU is a three-fan 3070ti, for what it's worth.)
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Aug 19, 2021 16:24
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Those temps are fantastic.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:28
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Is 70 degrees normal for the 5600x? The Ryzen 5 3600 also has a 65-watt TDP and mine has never hit 70 under load even though I'm only using a single-fan Arctic 34 esports cooler in an ITX case. Seems hot to me? That GPU temp is fine though.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:30
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Anything under 90 isn't going to hurt anything though might be indicative of airflow problems or a mounting issue. Anything under 80 had absolutely 0 cause for concern. Absolute temps will depend on case airflow and ambient temperature so you can't just compare temps directly, but also yes I believe the 5XXX series generally runs hotter.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:41
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Thanks, good to hear some reassurance. This is the first system I've ever built with full top-tier components, so it's also the first where I'm giving a crap about temps apart from just ensuring basic airflow. (change my name, that 70C CPU temp is only at load - for non-gaming use it seems to stay right around 40C)
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Aug 19, 2021 16:46
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https://www.antonline.com/Evga/Computers/Video_Cards/Graphic_Cards/1433183 This was posted in the GPU thread. I pulled the trigger, my credit card has a pending charge, but I’m still waiting for processing/shipping confirmation. Might still be up if anybody else wants it too. The bundle gets you a great EVGA PSU if your doing a new build. The keyboard is probably meh, I don’t know. If I actually get this, I’ll probably post back in here for CPU/MOBO/RAM suggestions. (Please don’t judge if I ask for Intel build options!) Cartoon Man fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 17:36
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So glad I went with noctua coolers and fans for a silent case when they motherboard vrm fan sounds like a jet engine. Edit: I guess it's a PCH fan. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 17:47
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yep, there's a reason that people tend to reccomended against. probably the first part to fail and the most difficult to replace lol.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:48
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Sarcastro posted:Thanks, good to hear some reassurance. This is the first system I've ever built with full top-tier components, so it's also the first where I'm giving a crap about temps apart from just ensuring basic airflow. Those temps are good. There’s room for them to be better, but it’s not necessary. You’d want to push for better cooling if you plan on doing any OC, or if your ambient temp is going to rise. Cartoon Man posted:https://www.antonline.com/Evga/Computers/Video_Cards/Graphic_Cards/1433183 We probably will judge you if you’re looking at mid-range to high end. Intel absolutely does not compete in that space. The only competitive thing out there from intel right now is the 11400 if you can get it around MSRP (generally near $185 USD). If you’re after a more powerful chip, you are absolutely making a mistake outside of getting a VERY good deal.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:51
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v1ld posted:Not sure if this is the right thread to ask, but: I'd like to get better surge protection in front of my electronics. I've been on a bit of a voice controlled electronics kick so ideally the surge protector would be integrated into a smart strip or plug. I think what might work is a power-backup UPS. Most of them offer surge protection >1k joules and you can get batteries with enough power to give you 30 minutes to shut everything down. APC is the popular brand with commercial outfits and I've used CyberPower for almost 2 decades without any issues. Unless I am just misunderstanding...
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Aug 19, 2021 19:05
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Those temps are good. Making a mistake in terms of cost? I was looking at the latest i7, 11700K.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:39
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What's a good 280mm AIO? I don't really care about RGB, just want something that isn't too loud and will perform well. Just want to give AIOs a shot and I found my previous build with a Noctua was super bulky, I'd rather have a rad at the top of the case and not need to worry about obstructing everything else.
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Aug 19, 2021 19:56
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Cartoon Man posted:Making a mistake in terms of cost? I was looking at the latest i7, 11700K. The 11700k is genuinely bad, price/performance wise. It depends on your motherboard (for rather technical reasons), but in some instances, the 11700k can perform worse than the 10700k. The 11700k is only really worth it if you can get a huge discount off MSRP, and even then I’d still question it. We’d need to know your specific use cases to recommend a specific processor, but the 5600x is a very very strong sweet spot for most things, especially gaming. The Gunslinger posted:What's a good 280mm AIO? I don't really care about RGB, just want something that isn't too loud and will perform well. Just want to give AIOs a shot and I found my previous build with a Noctua was super bulky, I'd rather have a rad at the top of the case and not need to worry about obstructing everything else. The liquid freezer ii is generally very highly regarded. https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-liquid-freezer-ii-280-liquid-cooling-system/p/N82E16835186248?Item=N82E16835186248
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Aug 19, 2021 20:04
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:We’d need to know your specific use cases to recommend a specific processor, but the 5600x is a very very strong sweet spot for most things, especially gaming. Monster girl dating simulators Heh, just the latest and greatest in PC gaming. Last year I snagged a sweet LG 27GL83A-B 27 Inch monitor so I’m looking forward to putting it through its paces. It’s already pretty amazing on my trusty GTX 1070. Yeah a couple google searches about Intel vs amd tells me exactly what your saying. Intel’s rocket lake is better than its comet lake series but still lagging behind AMD. I’ll play around with some AMD Ryzen builds and see what’s out there. I’ve always bought Asus motherboards before but it’s not a deal breaker to look elsewhere. But I’m not buying anything else till the GPU ships, arrives, and is in my hands. I just got an email that my order was approved, so that’s a good sign! Edit: is this a pretty good summary of the market so far? https://www.tomshardware.com/features/amd-vs-intel-cpus Cartoon Man fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 20:19
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Cartoon Man posted:
With that monitor, and your use case, you should absolutely get nothing higher than a 5600x. You will see exactly 0 benefit outside of very very specific CPU intense games. Asus makes AMD boards if you really want one. Don’t buy on brand though buy on model.
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Aug 19, 2021 21:03
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I get the mindset, AMD was so trash for so long. ryzen hit intel upside the head and they are still reeling in the enthusiast space at least. other than the above weird exceptions (and idk I feel like having access to the AM4 socket is more of a feature than some think, people buy with upgrades in mind and I have no idea what else fits in the 6 core intel chip) right now it’s a no brainer, unless you get a crazy promo.
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Aug 19, 2021 21:15
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