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Is there a meaningful difference between K type and Purple K type in terms of efficiency? I have a purple K in my garage because I read that they are the best for flammable liquid fires...
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Aug 21, 2021 18:14
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| # ? May 11, 2024 13:37 |
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skybolt_1 posted:Is there a meaningful difference between K type and Purple K type in terms of efficiency? I have a purple K in my garage because I read that they are the best for flammable liquid fires... K is foam, purple K is dry chem. And yes, that's a very good choice for a garage. You don't need to concern yourself about "efficiency" of an extinguisher: it's printed right on there. In fact, it's all based on how much fire a 2.5 gallon PW can put out. A typical 10 lb ABC dry chem is going to be labeled "4A:80B:C" That means it puts out as much class A fire as 4 PWs and as much class B fire as 80 PWs. A 10 lb Purple K is going to be 80B:C, and make less of a corrosive mess than an ABC. A straight K extinguisher is designed to saponify fats with an alkiline solution. It's that solution that needs to be compatible with any other extinguisher being used on the same fire (i.e. the commercial hood system). The typical 6 liter sized ones are rated 2A:K, so not at all great for a garage or really anything that isn't a cooking fire.
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Aug 21, 2021 18:30
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Awesome, thanks! That's really helpful, hopefully others can learn too and might have some more questions that I didn't think of.
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Aug 21, 2021 19:39
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Hed posted:In school we had this old guy from Bussman fuses come talk and he gave one of the most informative and entertaining engineering talks I’ve ever seen. Catastrophic failures, talking about fuse and breaker innards, and stories about big machines. Awesome. I work in industrial automation and I've seen Bussmann sales guys present a bunch of cool stuff over the years. The videos they have for SCCR are particularly interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8a9B9jgVmys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmu4eECh1c4 (interesting bits are at 0:30 and 1:35) Basically, fuses/breakers have a limit as to how much current they're able to safely break. This is typically on the order of tens of thousands of amps, which you can easily see in a short circuit scenario. If you go beyond that, they blow up in a spectacular fashion. This is massively confusing to calculate and has been a major PITA for my entire career, mainly because they keep changing the rules, and everything thinks they can bend the rules to suit their needs. And now customers are finally catching on to the requirements, so they're making demands for higher ratings. Rightfully so, but makes designs a lot more difficult. Manufacturers are starting to mark high ratings ONLY when you combine devices with other pieces of their equipment, rather than a generic high rating, so they're forcing you to buy more of their stuff to meet these ratings. Part of this has to do with testing requirement, but they're taking full advantage of it to drive more sales. Inner Light posted:Oh I didn’t mean I literally held it in the on position, I flipped it to on and immediately let go, I’m saying the tiny fraction of a second my finger was holding it was probably enough for the breaker not to be able to function, before the 100A popped. Hopefully that makes more sense and is more excusable. Eh, modern breakers can't be held on. The guts operate independent of the switch position, which is why to reset them you have to move the handle to the OFF position first. Not sure how long this has been a requirement, though, so it's possible you've got something old enough. All that said, breakers are not all made equal, even if they came off the same assembly line. Two 100A breakers in series, like you have, is bad from a coordination standpoint. Particularly in a short-circuit condition, it's nearly impossible to predict which is going to trip first. Not great for a residential application, but godawful from a distribution or factory scenario where one fault can take out half the system for no good reason. NomNomNom posted:It is, and that likely did not cause the problem. Breakers do take some discrete amount of time for their innards to work. I mean, they ARE bimetallic strips. At least, the thermal element is. This is why a 15A breaker takes forever to trip at 16A. It takes a while for the heat to build up enough to trip the thermal element. It's also why ambient temperature can screw things up and cause things to trip early (too hot) or late (too cold). Some devices contain ambient temperature compensation features, but not all. The magnetic trip (instantaneous) is just an electromagnet, and when the current gets past a certain point it trips right away. But even so, there's a ton of additional stuff inside breakers to make them safer/better.
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Aug 21, 2021 19:48
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Motronic posted:K is foam, purple K is dry chem. And yes, that's a very good choice for a garage. This is helpful! Thanks for the detailed explanation.
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Aug 21, 2021 21:36
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For balance of the posts of problems... I removed an ugly exterior porch light (ceiling mount, chandelier style but close to ceiling) that was a magnet for spiders. Two came running as I removed it for reference. I replaced it with a little can style no box needed low voltage light, and while I was at it, put two more along the front porch. I finally have even lighting across my porch, in a nice color, and clean. I'm currently chilling in an Adirondack chair having a beer under the nice glow, with the rain falling gently, and waiting for it to get dark so I can admire it. And it only took two trips to the hardware store.
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Aug 22, 2021 02:56
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So my wife wants to replace all of the exterior doors in our house, thus starting me down the quest to figure out who to hire and what to buy. Essentially, we have three doors, an ancient wooden front door that has an old busted screen door as well, a wooden back door that is leaky and hosed up by PO's dog scratching at it, and a glass and wood sliding patio door from our bedroom onto the back porch. She wants to: completely replace both the back and front doors, reverse the backdoor so that it opens inwards (it currently opens outwards), add a screen door to the back door, possibly remove the screen door from the front door or completely replace the screen door (she can't decide), and replace the patio door with a new one that's potentially a french door that opens up instead of sliding (and also have a screen door on this as well). We have a whole house fan, which is why she is obsessed with screen doors. Reading reviews of different door companies (including Lowes Depot) it seems like 75% of the complaints are always having to do with the actual installation process and less so with the doors themselves. E.g. Some door is covered by a manufacturer warranty, but the installer is a moron and installs it wrong and the manufacturer refuses to pay up because it's an installation issue and the buys goes back and forth between multiple companies while their door slowly leaks water, warps into zigzag shapes, etc. This, combined with the fact that what we want is kind of complicated (reversing the direction of doors, removing adding storm doors, maybe changing the design of the patio doors) makes me think that I should just order the doors from a company I like, get them delivered to my garage, and then hire a GC on my own to do the work. Does that make sense? If I search door installation on Yelp, all I get are the door/window showroom companies, which are a crapshoot of good and poo poo reviews (once again, mostly installation issues). Are there GCs out there that just do this kind of thing, or it a different search term I should be using?
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Aug 22, 2021 11:09
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First of all none of what you're doing is any more difficult than a regular replacement. If you replace a door with a prehung unit the swing direction is irrelevant, and the French door replacement is similar to the patio door replacement. By now you have found out that exterior doors are expensive. My rule of thumb is labor cost equals material cost. (I adjust depending on the material), so the margins on this are good enough that yes, I'd try a GC in your area. They can probably commit to tying it in cleanly with trim and paint. I mean really it's nearly all finish carpenter work, so look for door installers and carpenters too. Not sure what you'll find in that area though for that. There's the third comedy option. Your wife wants it done so bad she can figure it out!
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Aug 22, 2021 14:57
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I just recently DIY'd an exterior door replacement and it was extremely frustrating and difficult and ended up taking multiple days to actually get the door adjusted correctly. About a week later I read the average labor cost to hire out that job was something like $1800, which seems insane to me even after experiencing how annoying the job was first hand. I'd be curious what quotes you get assuming you hire out the job.
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Aug 22, 2021 15:07
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a no hub smart switch? I'd like to program my exterior light on a certain time, then dim at a later time, then off in the morning.
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Aug 22, 2021 15:28
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Sirotan posted:I just recently DIY'd an exterior door replacement and it was extremely frustrating and difficult and ended up taking multiple days to actually get the door adjusted correctly. About a week later I read the average labor cost to hire out that job was something like $1800, which seems insane to me even after experiencing how annoying the job was first hand. I'd be curious what quotes you get assuming you hire out the job. You understand the level of skill involved. Add in the tools required to do it, insurance to cover the risk of it breaking, or failure of install leading to water damage or other calamity, the cost of an apprentice helper, overhead and profit. When you hire a contractor to do a house or a group of houses these costs lower as they spread across all the doors interior and out. When it's just one part of that, it still has to get covered. The marginal cost of installing one exterior door is probably closer to 600-800, assuming two people of different rates and a full day removal and install including the little poo poo that pops up like repairing a part of the framing or shaving something down. It's better to price all of that in there and keep a good rep than go back for an additional $100 at the end of the job. Not that people don't do that too. Can I inquire what the cost of your door alone was?
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Aug 22, 2021 15:42
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I will be putting in a new exterior door today... Can't wait. It'll suck $300 contractor grade fiberglass prehung which will be ages better than the wooden 60year old door with 1/2" gap at the bottom and swollen old doorframe. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 15:55
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I didn't know that I needed fire extinguisher chat in my life this morning but, after having read through the conversation, I'm loving here for it. 
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Aug 22, 2021 16:52
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Getting close! Kudos to the "just use normal stain" goons. The ceiling turned out WAY better than the tan tinted semi transparent stain would have ever looked. This is the Benjamin Moore arborcoat natural translucent. I think they used oil based. Lighting isn't great in the picture, so it's not as dark as it looks. Electrical should be done tomorrow, gutters at some point as well. Got a punch list of a bunch of little things that need to get fixed. Its amazing how much cooler it is than the deck. Seems obvious, but it's noticable. Very much looking forward to having a usable backyard.
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Aug 22, 2021 16:58
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DaveSauce posted:Getting close! 10/10 would drink beers on that porch. Really nice job.
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Aug 22, 2021 17:04
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StormDrain posted:Can I inquire what the cost of your door alone was? I got this exact door: https://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WE...3165943#overlay Plus ended up needing about $50 in pressure treated lumber.
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Aug 22, 2021 17:26
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Doorchat: get a 6' level. It helps tremendously in getting the frame "right". Also use good shims, and plenty of them, along with a good construction screw like a GRK.
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Aug 22, 2021 17:35
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we better see some REAL COMFY furniture out there no weak wicker bastards
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Aug 22, 2021 17:37
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skybolt_1 posted:Doorchat: get a 6' level. It helps tremendously in getting the frame "right". Also use good shims, and plenty of them, along with a good construction screw like a GRK. Yes buy like 3x as many shims as you think you'll need so you don't have to make another store run. Also even if the door you are replacing is the same size as the one you're ripping out, don't assume the new one will fit in the opening. Measure your rough opening again to confirm, or spend hours frustrated and confused and shaving off bits of frame that rub on the opening until you see the sticker on the side of the frame with the dimensions and a lightbulb goes off. Good luck tater_salad, it definitely wasn't as easy as Tom Silva's video led me to believe it would be
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Aug 22, 2021 17:42
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StormDrain posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a no hub smart switch? I'd like to program my exterior light on a certain time, then dim at a later time, then off in the morning. I like the Kasa switches, they run over wifi, are cheap and pretty simple to use https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS220-Dimmer-Switch-1-Pack/dp/B079775ZZQ/ The reviews say you are able to program a dimmer schedule. Needs a neutral wire to run.
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Aug 22, 2021 17:45
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DaveSauce posted:I work in industrial automation and I've seen Bussmann sales guys present a bunch of cool stuff over the years. The videos they have for SCCR are particularly interesting: Thanks for these, brought back memories of the talk.  Also enjoyed that the guy in the video is “Nick Offerman, P. E.”
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Aug 22, 2021 18:17
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FCKGW posted:I like the Kasa switches, they run over wifi, are cheap and pretty simple to use Seconding Kasa. I have one dimmer switch and a boatload of the regular on/off switches and plug-in switches. My exterior lights go on at sunset (and it properly tracks sunset) and off at 11pm.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:34
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Thinking it's time for a new dishwasher. Just can't tell if it's worth the extra $150 for a Bosch 500 vs 300. Only differences seem to be a flexible top rack and it automatically opens the door when it's done to help dry. It actually might be worth it just for the simple solution they came up with to improve drying. Oh, and we need to replace our concrete steps from the driveway to the front door and that's going to cost us at least 10k. We actually hired an architect to draw up plans to almost completely redo the front of the property (new extended driveway with steps to the side of the house, new steps to main entrance, small front patio, non terrible landscaping on the steep hill that is our front yard) and it'd be about 80k at current rates to do it all. Maybe we can at least get the steps and driveway done in the fall if contractors at less busy then. No matter what we have to do the steps this year.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:42
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I have to open our Bosch each time when it’s done, or else it has a little bit of condensation left on top of the cups and glassware that’s a bit annoying. Gets dishes extremely clean so we don’t regret it, but we were also buying during the absolute worst time last winter so we didn’t have a choice. I’d go for it if you can
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Aug 22, 2021 19:04
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The Saucer Hovers posted:we better see some REAL COMFY furniture out there no weak wicker bastards That's our next objective. Looking at Article based on various suggestions here. The items we're eyeballing in particular are... wood and synthetic wicker. But they're well reviewed and have cushions that look comfy!
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Aug 22, 2021 19:46
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DaveSauce posted:That's our next objective. Looking at Article based on various suggestions here. The items we're eyeballing in particular are... wood and synthetic wicker. I've got a gigantic wood and plastic wicker sectional and chair and they're super comfortable. It makes the patio get a lot more use.  This stuff. I think we got it from Wayfair.
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Aug 22, 2021 19:55
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FCKGW posted:I like the Kasa switches, they run over wifi, are cheap and pretty simple to use I really like that, I wish it came in a toggle form though. I'll probably break down and just let one of my switches be a paddle though.
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Aug 22, 2021 21:35
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StormDrain posted:I really like that, I wish it came in a toggle form though. I'll probably break down and just let one of my switches be a paddle though. I have a couple of the Kasa switches, notably in the garage and basement, and being able to smack the paddle is really easy and handy. You sort of get used to it. There are also switch plates that will do toggle and paddle combinations if it's going in a bank of switches too.
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Aug 22, 2021 21:54
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StormDrain posted:I really like that, I wish it came in a toggle form though. I'll probably break down and just let one of my switches be a paddle though. There's not really toggle smart switches because the paddle ones just act as buttons. They're always in the paddle "on" position and hitting it just presses a button and cycles though on or off states, it doesn't physically move the switch paddle. Can't really do that with a toggle.
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Aug 22, 2021 22:00
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DaveSauce posted:That's our next objective. Looking at Article based on various suggestions here. The items we're eyeballing in particular are... wood and synthetic wicker. its the weak wicker loose woven and unprotected against the sun thats the problem. strong wicker is tough as nails just ask unca walt! id also avoid rustic wood unless you buy direct from a legit logger good ole boy
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Aug 22, 2021 22:26
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Sirotan posted:Good luck tater_salad, it definitely wasn't as easy as Tom Silva's video led me to believe it would be I mean it's easy if you just built up your opening to be perfect for the door you are buying and you already have everything square and level. Putting a door into an existing and or unknown opening sucks. Door in mostly trouble free except the catch for the doorknob needs to be adjusted down a little the hole works but when I put the plate for my lockset in the slot then it's slightly too high. So time to file it down a bit.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:15
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the pressure washer has officially usurped the leaf blower as #1 tool that feels like it can solve any problem dirty porch? pressure washer. dirty fence? pressure washer. annoying neighbor kid? pressure washer.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:35
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Deviant posted:the pressure washer has officially usurped the leaf blower as #1 tool that feels like it can solve any problem Feeling this. Pressure washer does usurp the leaf blower. My current "when all you have is a hammer" tool is a mini excavator. So just know this rabbit hole can keep running as deep as your pockets.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:36
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Just don’t use it as a bidet
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Aug 23, 2021 00:37
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please knock Mom! posted:Just don’t use it as a bidet i'll excavate what i please, thank you very much.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:38
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please knock Mom! posted:Just don’t use it as a bidet Your not my supervisor!
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Aug 23, 2021 00:38
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Deviant posted:annoying neighbor kid? pressure washer. Hell, your own kids too if they are far enough away for it to just be mist and not a pressurized stream. I touched up my fence today from the cleaning job I had someone do a few weeks ago; he did a good job overall but there were a couple of spots that got missed. Next up is replacing four posts that are rotted or majorly frost heaved, all of the post caps, and some various pieces here and there that are rotted out. ….then I can stain. It’s something like 350ft of fence plus I’m gonna do the play set while I’m at it, time to borrow a friend’s backpack sprayer!
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Aug 23, 2021 01:53
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I do get a lot of satisfaction blowing the porch off with the leaf blower. I get a lot of spruce needles everywhere. Tidy it up once a week and I'm happy. In my neighborhood are three pressure washers so I don't have any desire to buy one, I don't have a good place for it. Sorry to let you down thread.
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Aug 23, 2021 03:05
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Are mechanical drain snakes relatively easy to use? We just paid a plumber to un-gunk a bathroom sink line. I’d cleaned any visible pipes and a foot or so into the wall, but felt anything beyond that needed a plumber. He used one of the big drum drain snakes and fed about 20 feet before finding the clog. I don’t know if it’s worth getting a $50 hand cranked tool to DIY the next clog I can’t fix with a plunger and a clean p-trap.
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Aug 23, 2021 04:57
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I got one of those snakes you hook a drill onto for like $25 at Walmart one distraught evening, 50ft length I think. Harbor Freight and other big box stores likely sell identical models with their own branding.
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Aug 23, 2021 05:06
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