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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:It's about 5-10 kgs from memory. It's not worth it. Thank you. I am in the process of installing a new GD subframe in it and was offered the dented hood one for 50 dollars. I suspected it wasn't worth it considering all the other stuff I have to do to get it ready for the next event.
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Aug 11, 2021 13:48
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What’s a good place to find rare Subaru parts? I’m looking for the 5MT front LSD, which is 38410AA021. I have a request in with Amayama but no response so far.
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Aug 11, 2021 18:28
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i own every Bionicle posted:What’s a good place to find rare Subaru parts? I’m looking for the 5MT front LSD, which is 38410AA021. I have a request in with Amayama but no response so far. A front LSD? I want one too. And something for my Center Diff. Must improve RallyX car!
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Aug 11, 2021 18:31
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I've never actually bought anything from there but maybe check out https://www.croooober.com/en/ ? It's the US site for buying parts from Up Garage all over Japan and since they have used parts you might get lucky.
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Aug 11, 2021 19:17
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net work error posted:I've never actually bought anything from there but maybe check out https://www.croooober.com/en/ ? It's the US site for buying parts from Up Garage all over Japan and since they have used parts you might get lucky. Thanks, didn’t know about that site. Nothing there right now but I’ll keep an eye on it.
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Aug 11, 2021 19:34
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Continuing my mantrans journey: This is a reach but does anybody know if there is a difference between the 05/06 USDM 5MT (TY757VBAAB) and 08/09 JDM 5MT (TY758VBAAA)? I ordered a low mile used TY757VBAAB but the importer said they found problems with it and offered a TY758VBAAA instead. The ratios and final drive (4:11) are all the same, they are both push style. I can’t find a difference anywhere. daslog posted:A front LSD? I want one too. And something for my Center Diff. Must improve RallyX car! So it looks like if you want a front LSD on a 5MT, the only workable options are a Quaife QDH3Y or Subaru 38410AA021. The info about the Quaife says it works on both 6MT and 5MT. It bolts right into the 6MT, but on the 5MT it requires hybrid axles, different seals, and maybe machining or some fuckery on the 5MT according to anybody on the 818 forums who has tried to put one in. The Subaru part was only ever put in a couple of GC8 STI’s. You can get it from Rallispec in NJ for about 1350, or Amayama in Japan for about 1100. As far as I can tell, Rallispec procures them to order from Japan and marks them up. I ordered from Amayama because they responded more quickly to my inquiries and were cheaper.
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Aug 12, 2021 18:51
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i own every Bionicle posted:Continuing my mantrans journey: According to my 5 minutes of research, the gear ratios are the same for the two transmissions. Thanks for the link on the Front diffs
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Aug 12, 2021 20:23
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daslog posted:According to my 5 minutes of research, the gear ratios are the same for the two transmissions. Thanks for the link on the Front diffs Yeah as far as I can tell the ratios and everything are all the same. I asked for some confirmation from the importer that it is the same thing mechanically, and for some pictures, and they replied quote:we have ty757vbdab and ty758vbaaa which are 4.11 and they do match the USDM 4.11 final FD which does not answer my loving question at all. I’m worried that the case might be tapped differently or maybe the gearset isn’t as strong. I think I’m going to tell them to send me a refund and find a different one.
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Aug 12, 2021 20:41
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How are duralast sway bar end links? I’m trying to replace the rear sway bar, but the bolts on the stock ones are pretty rusty. Will I see any performance benefit from nicer ones from Ralitek or another performance oriented brand?
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Aug 16, 2021 17:55
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Head Bee Guy posted:How are duralast sway bar end links? I’m trying to replace the rear sway bar, but the bolts on the stock ones are pretty rusty. Will I see any performance benefit from nicer ones from Ralitek or another performance oriented brand? Don’t think too hard about end links, they don’t really offer any performance improvement. I’ve had some OEM ones break after a while and have always used Moog as replacements because they are beefy and cheap. I’m sure duralast are fine. Beefier aftermarket end links are better for stiffer aftermarket sway bars, and adjustable ones can center the swaybar when the car is lowered or raised. For a stock swaybar it doesn’t matter that much.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:06
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Anyone have experience with RSR springs on a gen5 outback? perhaps i’m chasing consumption to avoid negative feelings, but i’ve been fantasizing of turning my outback 3.6 into more or a sportwagon I’m installing a stiffer sway bar this weekend-that is if i can get the rusted bolts off the end links—and will be adding some UHP tires in the next few months.
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Aug 19, 2021 14:46
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Any real differences between the incoming BRZ and FRS or is it all exterior cosmetics? Interior differences? Tuning differences?
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Aug 21, 2021 06:22
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Ok Comboomer posted:Any real differences between the incoming BRZ and FRS or is it all exterior cosmetics? It’s mostly suspension differences. I think I also heard something about the throttle mapping being a bit different, with the BRZ being more linear. The interiors pretty much look the same but with minor color changes. The BRZ is open to orders now, first deliveries in Oct/Nov, not sure when the GR is supposed to release but Toyota dealers aren’t taking orders yet. Here’s a track comparison video (machine translated subs) that also goes over some of the suspension differences: https://youtu.be/K0NQyqwWDIQ They brought out a neat cutaway chassis to the Japanese press event that showed the differences between the cars.
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Aug 21, 2021 09:52
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Wait a sec.... did that video suggest Toyota are using an offset rod and Subaru a straight one? Woah I know which engine is gonna love some booooost.
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Aug 21, 2021 10:12
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Symetrique posted:It’s mostly suspension differences. I think I also heard something about the throttle mapping being a bit different, with the BRZ being more linear. The interiors pretty much look the same but with minor color changes.  
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Aug 21, 2021 13:20
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Wait a sec.... did that video suggest Toyota are using an offset rod and Subaru a straight one?
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Aug 21, 2021 14:13
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Wait a sec.... did that video suggest Toyota are using an offset rod and Subaru a straight one? The engines are the same If this is the comparison you were thinking of:  It’s just a side by side of the fa20 from the last gen and the fa24 from the new Symetrique fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Aug 21, 2021 |
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Aug 21, 2021 18:19
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Dumb question but why do the pistons have little divots for the valves? In case there is some spring or cam failure to prevent catastrophic damage? Or a necessity with variable valve timing? Or something else entirely?!
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Aug 21, 2021 21:44
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Symetrique posted:The engines are the same Ahhhh okay that makes sense. Boost is on the menu boys!
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Aug 21, 2021 22:27
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Toe Rag posted:Dumb question but why do the pistons have little divots for the valves? In case there is some spring or cam failure to prevent catastrophic damage? Or a necessity with variable valve timing? Or something else entirely?! The valves will literally follow the pistons up\down depending on the timing \ cams. Hard to find a good photo, but these should help you visualize what's happening near the top of the stroke.  People do check their clearances with clay or putty, again you can see that the valves do actually come pretty close to the pistons during normal operation.  With a flat piston and no other changes to the combustion chamber you'd have impacts. Essentially optimizing the combustion chamber.
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Aug 21, 2021 22:36
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Why wouldn’t the valves be closed at TDC? Or they are but the compression ratio is high enough there is potential for collision? I’m not a mechanical engineer if you can’t tell!
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Aug 21, 2021 22:50
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Ahhhh okay that makes sense. Well I mean the FA24 handles boost fine in the Ascent and Outback. Too bad about the CVT thing (Cobb claims any tune that increases performance on an outback xt will kill the CVT)
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Aug 21, 2021 22:58
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hobbesmaster posted:Well I mean the FA24 handles boost fine in the Ascent and Outback. Too bad about the CVT thing (Cobb claims any tune that increases performance on an outback xt will kill the CVT) Would the same be true on a 3.6 with a CVT? Seems CVT tunes are pretty popular on the Outback forum, but any model-specific forum is usually filled with the dumbest people alive
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Aug 21, 2021 23:27
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Head Bee Guy posted:Would the same be true on a 3.6 with a CVT? Seems CVT tunes are pretty popular on the Outback forum, but any model-specific forum is usually filled with the dumbest people alive There isn’t much to be done other than changing the throttle map on an NA engine right? Throttle mapping to try and match any oddities in the CVT’s program is popular but doesn’t actually change engine output. This is what I was referring to: https://m.facebook.com/cobbtuning/posts/10159042877344054?_rdr hobbesmaster fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Aug 21, 2021 |
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Aug 21, 2021 23:42
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hobbesmaster posted:Well I mean the FA24 handles boost fine in the Ascent and Outback. Too bad about the CVT thing (Cobb claims any tune that increases performance on an outback xt will kill the CVT) The CVT is 400NM hard limit vs the FA24 at 370NM. Sneezing at a FA motor gives you 40 more NM eaaaasy so this would be true, do anything and you go past the hard limit. FA20 has 350NM so you can get away with an exhaust an a reaaaaaaaaaaally minor tune to suit. Head Bee Guy posted:Would the same be true on a 3.6 with a CVT? Seems CVT tunes are pretty popular on the Outback forum, but any model-specific forum is usually filled with the dumbest people alive Torque is the CVT killer and the 3.6 does 335Nm. So you have a 50NM tuning window so .... probably be okay. Toe Rag posted:Why wouldn’t the valves be closed at TDC? Or they are but the compression ratio is high enough there is potential for collision? I’m not a mechanical engineer if you can’t tell! This is admittedly a question that deserves a very long and detailed answer but the short of it is to create the air flow you want at the time you want. So to get as much air in the valve actually begins to open *before* TDC / BDC depending on what valve side and where in the cycle the engine is. Also so that the valve is fully open as soon as the piston is leaving TDC. Thats not even close to the full answer or even touches on the air dynamics that goes on, scavaging, harmonics etc.
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Aug 21, 2021 23:55
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Does the FA24 turbo really produce full output on 87 octane like is called for? I’ve not seen hard data but when I was curious and looking it up I couldn’t find detailed data but some people claimed that with their obd port logs they could see the anti knock sensors retarding timing and boost a lot on 87 and not on 91.
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Aug 22, 2021 00:01
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Does anyone make a clutch master that removes the pulsation damper for the BRZ? I am assuming this is where the lovely clutch feeling comes from. e: nevermind, maybe it is this spring everyone is talking about BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Aug 22, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2021 04:42
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Transmission updates: Amayama has failed to procure a JDM Subaru 5MT front LSD. I think they are all gone at this point. I ordered a Quaife QDH3Y. It’s supposed to fit any 01-07 WRX, and the stock 01-07 WRX front diff fits the LGT, so we shall see. Started pulling the old trans. Got driveshaft, exhaust, sensors, and axles out of the way. Drained the fluid and lol:  
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Aug 24, 2021 13:14
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I'm sure that's fine.
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Aug 24, 2021 16:02
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Has anyone used the Gates timing belt and water pump kits? I feel like I heard something negative about them, I'm trying to decide between DIYing it and paying a shop. At least I have a SOHC EJ22 engine so I'll only have two cams to line up rather than four. I know I'll need to replace my antifreeze, is a coolant flush something worth doing or is it pointless? My valve cover gaskets also need replacing at some point, are they easier to get at when doing the timing belt and water pump? Thinking about the engine geometry I don't think they would be but I could be wrong.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Has anyone used the Gates timing belt and water pump kits? I feel like I heard something negative about them, I'm trying to decide between DIYing it and paying a shop. At least I have a SOHC EJ22 engine so I'll only have two cams to line up rather than four. The current gates kits are not great. The belt is fine, the water pump is sketchy looking, the tensioner is super sketchy looking, but the bearings are good. I didn't bother swapping the water pump (the OEMs rarely seem to have issues) and I swapped the bearing on the new crappy looking tensioner to my old tensioner.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Has anyone used the Gates timing belt and water pump kits? I feel like I heard something negative about them, I'm trying to decide between DIYing it and paying a shop. At least I have a SOHC EJ22 engine so I'll only have two cams to line up rather than four. Used one on an EJ25D with no issues.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:20
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Is there a way to tell if my pump is OEM? I know it got replaced shortly after I bought the car but I don't know if the shop replaced with with an OEM or cheaped out and got a Dorman or something. If I only need to do the belt and tensioner and idlers then that saves a little bit of money, and then I also wouldn't have to shell out for new coolant or a flush.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:then I also wouldn't have to shell out for new coolant or a flush. If you need to change coolant you need to change coolant. It's all coming out anyway because you need to pull the rad and ac condenser to do the belt job. If the coolant is still good drain it into a clean pan and put it back in when you're done. I have no idea how to tell if the pump is OEM. Some of the rebuilders don't do anything to the casting at all, some of them grind things off or puts stamps on them.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:25
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Well I know for a fact that Gates stamps their pumps.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:25
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um excuse me posted:Well I know for a fact that Gates stamps their pumps. Just checked the one I didn't use and yeah:  But that still leaves everybody else who remans these things as a question mark.
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Aug 24, 2021 19:29
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Didn't realize I needed to pull the radiator to do the timing belt, but I see how that would help a lot in terms of space to do the job. It looks like I'm due for a fluid change by miles anyway so I might as well do it as cheap insurance.
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Aug 24, 2021 21:37
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It's not that you have to, but the amount of work is totally justified in both time and effort.
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Aug 24, 2021 21:43
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Looks like the BRZ review embargo lifts next Monday
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Aug 24, 2021 23:35
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Anyone have any pro tips for keeping the cam and crank lined up when you're putting the new belt on? It would be nice if there was some way to lock them in place but I can't think of anything. I'm just afraid of loving up and accidentally spinning a cam gear to the point I don't know where it should be. Maybe that's irrational, I'm just not the most coordinated guy in the world.
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Aug 24, 2021 23:44
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