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Kalman posted:A lot cheaper. The DelMarVa yard I get emails from (Maryland Select Hardwoods) has narrow poplar at $1/bf and wider poplar at 2.50/bf, sometimes surfaced at that price. (He’ll also throw in 10 bf of narrow poplar free if you buy 100 bucks of other wood.) That's on the other side of the Chesapeake from me, I'm talking about across the bay bridge.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:22
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Danhenge posted:That's on the other side of the Chesapeake from me, I'm talking about across the bay bridge. Yeah, just realized that and edited to reflect, but I’d still expect poplar to be much cheaper at actual Delmarva yards.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:30
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Kalman posted:Yeah, just realized that and edited to reflect, but I’d still expect poplar to be much cheaper at actual Delmarva yards. Alright, much appreciated!
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Aug 25, 2021 01:31
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Yorkshire Pudding posted:Hey goons, guy with zero carpentry experience with a question about minor repairs. I'd use some two-part epoxy filler, then spot sand to get it approximately smooth with 80 grit paper. That's probably good enough. The colors won't match so it will still be obvious, but maybe your landlord won't care. You might be able to find something tinted closer to the wood. It doesn't really merit anything more substantial than that IMO.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:34
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Deteriorata posted:I'd use some two-part epoxy filler, then spot sand to get it approximately smooth with 80 grit paper. That's probably good enough. The colors won't match so it will still be obvious, but maybe your landlord won't care. You might be able to find something tinted closer to the wood. Thank you, I appreciate it! It doesn’t have to be perfect, just needs to not be a big hole.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:36
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Whoa so I bought a PEC blemished 12 in square from Harry Epstein, it seems pretty well made and square and I like it. I noticed a long silver scratch in the middle of the blade and assumed that was the defect. Then I read that for seconds, PEC will mill off the brand name before passing them on for sale. I took a closer look, and it’s obvious that the word Mitutoyo was actually milled off! Some searching turned up reports over the years that PEC might make rulers and squares for Mitutoyo - did I get a really good deal here?
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Aug 25, 2021 01:43
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nosleep posted:Would it be possible to carefully apply another coat of dye, and just avoiding going over those streaks again and see if it makes it less noticeable? Otherwise I don't mind taking the ROS to it again since I only have to re-do the front side, if that seems like it would work. I just don't know too much about dye and I can't find much other info on this problem. That article recommends transfast dye which is fine, but Lockwood’s stuff is usually much cheaper (and I’d bet they actually manufacture TransFast’s dye powders anyway). Pine, and especially yellow pine, is really frustrating to stain well-I’m very interested to see how that process works out! Danhenge posted:I live on the Delmarva Peninsula, the closest lumber yard is ~45 minutes. Poplar at lowes/HD sells at about the equivalent of $8/bf. I guess I don't know what the price of poplar at the local lumber yards is.
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Aug 25, 2021 03:52
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I've been trying to track down local saw mills, but it seems like they all just do wholesale SYP or they aren't on the internet.
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Aug 25, 2021 04:30
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nosleep posted:Would it be possible to carefully apply another coat of dye, and just avoiding going over those streaks again and see if it makes it less noticeable? Otherwise I don't mind taking the ROS to it again since I only have to re-do the front side, if that seems like it would work. I just don't know too much about dye and I can't find much other info on this problem. Kaiser had some good tips about the solvent, but the fact you reapplied it and it didn't affect the streaks makes me think that what you used is not water or alcohol soluble? If it is, definitely try to scrub/blend the drips with whatever the solvent is. If you can't do that, I'd go with a scraper rather than sanding, and then touch up sand. Trying to patch to the streaks would really be some OCD that would end in a fail, I fear.
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Aug 25, 2021 04:50
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah poplar and ash should be well under $4/bf, especially since I’m sure he bought it wholesale. It’s crept up a lot in the last yr, but 4/4 poplar for me wholesale is well under $2/bf rough. Ash is currently cheaper than red oak but I would imagine he paid less than $3/bf for it or red oak. Cypress maybe $4/bf if it’s nice stuff, but not for scrap. I would imagine there are some small sawmills around there it might be worth trying to track down, especially for something like cypress. To pile one, I see Red Oak for $4/bf at the big box stores all the time, or did until the last year. It's starting to come back down a bit though so who knows where it will be in another 6 months. Poplar is the stuff that gets used when you want to finish it to look like another wood but don't want to source that wood, or when it won't be seen but you want to use a hardwood. It's soft, easy to work with, and relatively cheap. It's not gorgeous, strong, or hard (though it's technically a hardwood).
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Aug 25, 2021 04:55
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Danhenge posted:I've been trying to track down local saw mills, but it seems like they all just do wholesale SYP or they aren't on the internet. Lumber yard or sawmill? there's no way there's not a yard somewhere on the outskirts of the nearest big town. As an individual hobbyist looking for a mill to process the tree you cut down yeah you're gonna be stuck dealing with 60-year-old farmers who were clearing a field a decade ago and found themselves with a sawmizer's worth of cash burning a hole in their pocket, and have all the business hustle and tech savvy that implies. Try putting some messages out on whatever local Facebook group old rednecks use to swap pictures of Larry the Cable Guy A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 08:21
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In the DC area any private seller I've talked to has been out of their mind when they price their boards. Like one guy had some 4/4 #2 walnut, still wet, and wanted $9/bd ft. The exception was this rando in McClean that sold me some wide cherry for $4/bd ft, but even then that's only a good deal and probably not worth dealing with Craigslist.
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Aug 25, 2021 11:50
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I finished up my bar last night. I mounted the top shelf for the inordinate amount of pint glasses I've collected over the years. I'm really pleased with how well it turned out.
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Aug 25, 2021 12:24
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Lumber yard or sawmill? there's no way there's not a yard somewhere on the outskirts of the nearest big town. As an individual hobbyist looking for a mill to process the tree you cut down yeah you're gonna be stuck dealing with 60-year-old farmers who were clearing a field a decade ago and found themselves with a sawmizer's worth of cash burning a hole in their pocket, and have all the business hustle and tech savvy that implies. Try putting some messages out on whatever local Facebook group old rednecks use to swap pictures of Larry the Cable Guy I was responding to Kaiser Schnitzel's note about sawmills. I know of a couple lumber yards, they're just 45 minutes at the nearest
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Aug 25, 2021 13:13
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AFewBricksShy posted:I finished up my bar last night. This is great work
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Aug 25, 2021 13:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What kind of dye are you using? Water soluble dye is really easy to use and plays really well with second coats and a second coat of dye ( or even water) will blend that all right in. Alcohol soluble is a bit trickier because it dries so much faster, but a second coat should still be able to blend that if you can get it all wet at once. I don’t have much experience with oil soluble dyes. Streaking and lap marks like that (and drip marks) happen when there is wet right next to dry. Try to get it all evenly wet and then let it dry. If you put wet stuff on a dry area you will get streaks. If you need to rework an area, you have to get the whole face wet again. I don’t usually use conditioner, especially with water dye, so I can’t really speak to that part of the process. Mr. Mambold posted:Kaiser had some good tips about the solvent, but the fact you reapplied it and it didn't affect the streaks makes me think that what you used is not water or alcohol soluble? If it is, definitely try to scrub/blend the drips with whatever the solvent is. If you can't do that, I'd go with a scraper rather than sanding, and then touch up sand. Trying to patch to the streaks would really be some OCD that would end in a fail, I fear. It is in fact Transfast water soluble dye. So this gives me hope it could be able to be tweaked a little. I just wanted to stop messing with it until I got a little more info/advice. It's been left alone for a few days so hopefully the extended drying time won't be too much of a problem. So it seems from what you're saying, since the second coat of dye didn't seem to change it much, I'm wondering if I just try to use plain water to scrub those areas and try to see if it blends in a little, and then do a full third coat of dye would end up more uniform. If that seems like a reasonable approach I'll get on it tonight. Thanks for both your replies!
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Aug 25, 2021 14:23
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nosleep posted:It is in fact Transfast water soluble dye. So this gives me hope it could be able to be tweaked a little. I just wanted to stop messing with it until I got a little more info/advice. It's been left alone for a few days so hopefully the extended drying time won't be too much of a problem. If it's water soluble, alcohol just might work better. Try it on a small area first and see.
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Aug 25, 2021 16:08
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I made a mallet out of bloodwood.  Do they call it bloodwood because of it's natural color or because you will draw blood carving it? Only time and the black stains we leave behind will tell. Bonus feature: Did a quick test with cooking bloodwood to see if it affects the color like purpleheart. Bloodwood carbonizes way faster, the top was after only 10 minutes at 400F. Purpleheart was able to least over 2h at the same temperature without charring. 
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Aug 25, 2021 22:41
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I make everything out of bloodwood. None of it starts out that way, though. 
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Aug 25, 2021 22:47
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Deteriorata posted:I make everything out of bloodwood. None of it starts out that way, though. drat. Too real. Good thing I scraped the bloodstains off my table before waxing it.
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Aug 25, 2021 22:52
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Danhenge posted:Alright, much appreciated! Where in Delmarva are you? There are a few Amish sawmills outside of Dover that I've been meaning to reach out to about wood. If you don't mind a drive up to Philly there is a really good spot for wood called Delaware County Supply Company. It's a huge place with a really good selection.
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Aug 25, 2021 23:58
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calandryll posted:Where in Delmarva are you? There are a few Amish sawmills outside of Dover that I've been meaning to reach out to about wood. If you don't mind a drive up to Philly there is a really good spot for wood called Delaware County Supply Company. It's a huge place with a really good selection. Salisbury, so not quite a casual drive to any of those places. I'd drive if there's a really good deal tho
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Aug 26, 2021 01:24
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Danhenge posted:Salisbury, so not quite a casual drive to any of those places. I'd drive if there's a really good deal tho I'll have to ask my boss where he gets his wood, he lives in the Lewes area. I think he's mentioned the Millsboro store a few times.
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Aug 26, 2021 01:28
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calandryll posted:I'll have to ask my boss where he gets his wood, he lives in the Lewes area. I think he's mentioned the Millsboro store a few times. The millsboro store is nice, just takes a big we out of my day, and i can usually only get there on a Saturday before it closes.
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Aug 26, 2021 02:17
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Finally completed my first planned jigs after that long digression into tool calibration. Crosscut sled then used that to make a miter sled and some stop blocks to lend a hand. Just finished the first test cuts to make a square frame and I think it turned out pretty good!
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Aug 26, 2021 02:47
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I wanna see the most overwrought ornate frame, for a postage stamp 
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Aug 26, 2021 02:52
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Danhenge posted:The millsboro store is nice, just takes a big we out of my day, and i can usually only get there on a Saturday before it closes. Sounds like you should buy that expensive wood off that cabinetmaker then, if there isn't a lumberyard you can get to.
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Aug 26, 2021 03:17
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SimonSays posted:Sounds like you should buy that expensive wood off that cabinetmaker then, if there isn't a lumberyard you can get to. Or just stop complaining and suck it up now and then!
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Aug 26, 2021 03:32
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calandryll posted:Where in Delmarva are you? There are a few Amish sawmills outside of Dover that I've been meaning to reach out to about wood. If you don't mind a drive up to Philly there is a really good spot for wood called Delaware County Supply Company. It's a huge place with a really good selection. Back when I was up there Delaware was a surprisingly good place for getting wood or really any craft supply. Tons or wood carving, turning, furniture making clubs in the area too.
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Aug 26, 2021 04:41
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Just snagged an antique saw vise for $20 
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Aug 28, 2021 19:27
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Update on the botched dye job on my mantle. The advice to use water/alcohol on the streaks seemed to work well. I used denatured alcohol and initially used a Q-tip to go right over the streaked areas, but actually ended up getting better results using a sponge soaked in alcohol and going over the streaks a little more aggressively. Then going over with a couple more coats of dye over the whole side it blended in pretty well. It doesn't stand out as bad, and I think is more at the level of something only I would notice. The side by side pictures make it more noticeable and in person it doesn't jump out as much. Now just to decide if I should go ahead with a couple coats of shellac. I like the dull flat look of the finish, but feel like I should put a topcoat on for a little protection.  
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Aug 28, 2021 21:04
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nosleep posted:Update on the botched dye job on my mantle. The advice to use water/alcohol on the streaks seemed to work well. I used denatured alcohol and initially used a Q-tip to go right over the streaked areas, but actually ended up getting better results using a sponge soaked in alcohol and going over the streaks a little more aggressively. Then going over with a couple more coats of dye over the whole side it blended in pretty well. It doesn't stand out as bad, and I think is more at the level of something only I would notice. The side by side pictures make it more noticeable and in person it doesn't jump out as much. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Aug 28, 2021 23:56
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3x3 Custom put up a cabinet build video right before I started working on one for myself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfhPC6qIuNU It looked nice painted like that, so I attempted to copy the look and,  , I should have gone with brush on paint like I originally planned.
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Aug 29, 2021 01:15
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Did some "it's fine" woodworking over the weekend. Built a deadlift platform so I won't break my floor: And built a quick saw buck for roughing out bowl blanks with the chainsaw:  Scored some big chunks of white oak from a neighbor and got them processed.  
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Aug 30, 2021 12:31
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Nice, Those some of those blanks look like they'll come out really pretty. I have a hell of a time with Oak splitting to hell and back.
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Aug 30, 2021 20:18
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I coated the ends in anchorseal, so fingers crossed they don't split. Making blanks is almost a hobby unto itself.
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Aug 30, 2021 23:39
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Finished my miter saw stand/toolbox.     First thing I've made without detailed plans, just an idea of the overall size. I even cut a bunch of panels freehand without setting up a guide for my circular saw. Worked out great except for the drawer fronts, which I made hang too low and was having interfere with the drawers below. Not happy with the casters, the lock levers are almost impossible to activate with my foot. May swap those out in the future. I eventually want to make some dividers/compartments to keep stuff inside organized. Took me a week to build cause I'd be dripping sweat after 45 minutes in the humidity last week.
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Aug 31, 2021 18:09
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Started working on a picture frame and am using my Bosch RA1180 router table with grr rippers. Well, first cut got caught on an imprinted ruler in the table insert, and then the far edge of the table insert. Also noticed there’s a decent dip in the circular insert and the depth of the cut was a bit uneven. The table insert is plastic and probably has a bit of sag from the router weight too. I’m guessing this is happening because I’m able to put so much downward pressure on the front with the grr ripper - any ideas on how to improve this? Should I move the grr ripper back a bit and try to push down more in the center, or add more pressure to the back? Does the dip in the circle insert and table insert matter much or can I get past this with better technique? Or would some judicious painters tape or something help? Or perhaps I need to look at getting an aluminum table insert.
Enderzero fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 14:21
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The table insert should have leveling screws to flush it up with the table surface.
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Sep 1, 2021 14:27
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more falafel please posted:The table insert should have leveling screws to flush it up with the table surface. Indeed it does, and I should be able to fix the piece catching on the outfeed side where the insert meets the table but I’ve seen a lot of people talking about issues with plastic inserts where they are level at the point of the screws but sag in between - which might explain the piece getting caught on the imprinted ruler. Also worried that the dip in the clearance insert is going to cause a different depth of cut at the start of the piece until enough of the piece has passed through and rides the “high” points of the table.
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Sep 1, 2021 14:31
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