|
Russian Bear posted:When it's on a suzuki it's a DzJP fastner. I think you'll find it's DJIS
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 01:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 12:11 |
|
|
Just going to pick up a set since it’s a pain to buy individually I guess. Rest of the bolts on the bike seem to be fairly standard so I’ll check to see if any of the weird chinese bolt kits I bought for the Ninja 250 way back when can be substituted for this mish-mash of everything holding the rest of the bodywork in place.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 03:25
|
|
|
Get one of those packs of 500 stainless hex cap bolt sets off ebay or amazon: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...bolts&_osacat=0
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 03:48
|
|
|
I think replacing all the fasteners will be a long term quality of life thing. Shouldn’t fail safety for annoying bolt reasons, other than actually missing bolts. Going to see if I can make tomorrow’s goal to identify and fix my wheel-lock throttle problem 
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 03:54
|
|
|
That’s a DRC tail light and is actually really nice. One of the nicest ones you can get for the DRZ. No idea what shape yours is in or what else is going on, but if you were assuming it was cheap pep-boys garbage, it’s actually well made I feel like there is enough meat on those bolts to grab with a pair of vise grips but maybe the picture just makes it seem that way?
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 04:31
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:I’ll try the dremel idea and I’m gonna go run out get some pb-blaster right now. Once you've dremeled a slot, just make sure you use you hammer impact driver on it. Those things are great and it's good that you have one. Every mechanic needs to learn how to cope with stuck fasteners. It's like a lottery that can turn a five minute job into a multi-day ordeal. Penetrating fluids usually help a little and cant hurt so everyone uses them - sometimes a little help is all you need. If you get any movement out of the thing it can be a good idea to coax it back and forth a little to work the fluid into the thread before backing it all the way out. Heat is also your friend. Thermal expansion causes movement and heat makes the corrosion oxides soft. Oxy torches, map gas or butane torches, welders or even electric heat guns are commonly used for this by amateurs and professionals alike. If there's plastic, rubber or paint nearby heat isn't always possible to use obviously.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 05:58
|
|
|
I'd be curious how much soak time actually makes a difference for penetrating oils but my personal experience has been if I have the time, spraying kroil or pb blaster a day ahead of time and then again the day of seems to help. I'm open to some scientific explanation as to how that doesn't actually do poo poo, but I feel like it helps. Also, trying to tighten it a bit before loosening it definitely helps, and it took me way too long to figure out I needed to only use 6 point sockets vs 12 point for stuck bolts.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 07:01
|
|
|
The Project Farm guy has done a whole series on the subject that sheds some light on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjT3B9r2z3fWiqVPUH6xL1n_JMwH6FMm2
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 07:24
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Dzus nuts Mods if this poster replaces a single Dzus fastener with a normal bolt I want them permabanned.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 09:01
|
|
|
I'd always assumed dzus stood for something and mentally pronounced it "dee-zuss" but apparently it's just the surname of the guy invented them and it's pronounced like "zoose" Somehow I only now bothered to look this up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 09:52
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Mods if this poster replaces a single Dzus fastener with a normal bolt I want them permabanned. Agreed although I think the female portion of the dzus fasteners are welded to the frame, so one does not simply “replace” them on a DRZ without drilling and tapping aplenty
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 12:44
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:That’s a DRC tail light and is actually really nice. One of the nicest ones you can get for the DRZ. Yeah I looked it up and it's not a bad unit but I'm definitely going to replace it with OEM for now just to be 100% sure on safety certificate passing, and also one of the blinkers has a tendency to fall out of its rubber stalk so it probably needs a little gluing in place. I might put it back up after I pass safety and clean up the rust etc., but I'll definitely re-do the wiring so I can make it more readily replaceable. goddamnedtwisto posted:Mods if this poster replaces a single Dzus fastener with a normal bolt I want them permabanned. What if I replace them with zipties like PO did?  But yeah, this was a heat-of-the-moment observation but I found a set of four for $20 so no worries Conversely, now that I see how easy they are to pull off I kind of want the same for the rest of the fasteners. Too bad they don't fit. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Agreed although I think the female portion of the dzus fasteners are welded to the frame, so one does not simply “replace” them on a DRZ without drilling and tapping aplenty I 100% thought these were some PO fuckery but it was pretty cool to see an OEM put these on for easy access. Hell, I have to disassemble half my Ninja to get to the fusebox or relays, the least an OEM could do is make it easy to take fairings off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 12:56
|
|
|
It's worth buying a set of JIS screw drivers to use in the future as well to avoid rounding screws yourself. Is it weird I find it really satisfying when a screwdriver fits a screw just right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 13:00
|
|
|
No it's one of the best feelings. Especially if you're struggling with one that's fixed in place and you feel it CRACK open positively and confidently. No better feeling  no better feeling knowing you don't have to pb-blast and dremel
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 13:02
|
|
|
E: Taking to another thread.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2021 17:13
|
|
|
I can't figure out what's causing my DRZ's turn signals to not work. A while back I noticed my left rear turn signal was loose, signals still functioned except for this one. I wiggled and messed with it enough to where I ripped the leads out. Cue none of them working now. All I get is a quick flick of light on the turn signal indicator in the cluster (once per startup, won't do it more than once per), no signals work at all. I replaced the turn signals and the relay behind the cowl, STILL nothing. I have no clue, I suck at electrical problems and I'm kind of a poo poo newbie mechanic. Any ideas? I'd rather figure this out with some help instead of taking it to the dealership and letting them charge me however much for what is probably something insignificant.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 13:07
|
|
|
Wonder if the wiring or contacts on the relay connector could be corroded or worn? I'm just glancing through the clymer manual for the DRZ the PO helpfully threw in but I'm seeing precious little about troubleshooting this specifically. Here's everything they say about the relay, and it looks like it's just testing the relay itself so probably not helpful if you've already replaced it.  e: I think Suzuki 09900-25008 is just a bog standard multimeter but I could be wrong. --- My own two questions: - Without getting into a "hey I want to restore this bike" project because that's not my goal, how worried and active should I be about rust on the frame? There's no holes or massive corrosion but around the swingarm pivot there's a bit of rust forming, and the kickstand is basically all surface rust. Is this just a "lightly dremel wire wheel away whatever surface rust exists, apply rust converter and touch-up cover paint to keep from oxidizing" situation if I plan to keep this bike long-term? Or is there a better approach to this? Goal is to not undertake any drastic rebuilds, and to be clear this is low on my priority list but is something I should probably deal with at some point before it gets worse (?) - What are fork boots for? Is it just to protect against mud/offroad garbage? One of them has a little cracking rubber, the other has a cracked plastic boot ... holder? If I just take them off for now and not replace them until I'm ready to start doing things offroad is that an OK thing or do they serve some other integral purpose? The SM model doesn't seem to have them but I don't know if it has different forks or not. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Aug 26, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 13:18
|
|
|
Yeah take the rust off, paint over it with something to keep oxygen off the bare metal. Easy as that. The kickstand? Eh, it’s easily replaceable. Go for some trick aftermarket one, or just get another Suzuki one. It’s not with messing with in my mind. By the time you get it looking nice you could have just bought one
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 13:31
|
|
|
But Not Tonight posted:I can't figure out what's causing my DRZ's turn signals to not work. A while back I noticed my left rear turn signal was loose, signals still functioned except for this one. I wiggled and messed with it enough to where I ripped the leads out. Cue none of them working now. All I get is a quick flick of light on the turn signal indicator in the cluster (once per startup, won't do it more than once per), no signals work at all. I replaced the turn signals and the relay behind the cowl, STILL nothing. I have no clue, I suck at electrical problems and I'm kind of a poo poo newbie mechanic. Any ideas? I'd rather figure this out with some help instead of taking it to the dealership and letting them charge me however much for what is probably something insignificant. Turn signal relays operate off of the amount of electrical resistance in the circuit. If it's off, it will blink too quickly, or not at all. My bike had its signals rewired into the taillight housing (where, in Japan, they were originally) and the signals blink too quickly, even though they seem otherwise normal. They did this even when I moved the signals back to their US positions. This might even be caused just by too much wiring that isn't being used... or, who knows what. Whatever it is, it's confusing the relay. I "fixed" it by buying one of those electronic turn signal relays that you need to buy for LED blinkers. These turn signal relays don't go off of the amount of resistance in the circuit and will just blink at the same rate every time, because they're microprocessor-controlled. (Because of this, though, you wouldn't be able to tell when a turn signal has gone out if you're not looking at the signal.) So, that might be worth a shot. Otherwise, check all connections, making sure no wires are internally broken, and that all connectors are snug. (And that no bulbs are out, of course.)
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 13:34
|
|
|
I've tried two different relays after the original, they're billed as 7 pin suzuki relays for a drz. Is there something else I should be trying to use? When I pulled the old relay to swap in the new one, they appeared to be exactly the same thing and the new ones fit perfectly. I ordered a second replacement because I thought I might have shorted the first one out due to putting the relay in and THEN splicing in the new signals, and somehow crossing some wires. Second time the battery was unhooked and the relay hadn't been touched while I fiddled with the splices again. E: I'll try testing the relay, I just need to buy a Clymer instead of trying to use online resources and having it be disorganized. I'd rather have paper to read while working.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 14:20
|
|
|
What's the oil check process on a DRZ400? I got a clymer manual but not the original owner manual. I've deduced: - Idle engine 3-5 min - Stop, let sit 5 min - Stand bike vertical - Pull dipstick, wipe, sit dipstick on threads and pull out to read? Right, or do I need to adjust? Not that I am, but in a scenario where I'm concerned about my actual oil level, how would I know if it's safe to start the engine to even let it idle the 3-5 min? I'd sure hate to start it and find out I have critically low oil for some reason I can't think of right now, but effectively tear things up by running somewhat dry.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 18:59
|
|
|
But Not Tonight posted:I can't figure out what's causing my DRZ's turn signals to not work. A while back I noticed my left rear turn signal was loose, signals still functioned except for this one. I wiggled and messed with it enough to where I ripped the leads out. Cue none of them working now. All I get is a quick flick of light on the turn signal indicator in the cluster (once per startup, won't do it more than once per), no signals work at all. I replaced the turn signals and the relay behind the cowl, STILL nothing. I have no clue, I suck at electrical problems and I'm kind of a poo poo newbie mechanic. Any ideas? I'd rather figure this out with some help instead of taking it to the dealership and letting them charge me however much for what is probably something insignificant. Try checking if the indicator switch is working. The brief flicker implies a short to earth, are you sure you got the wires all in the right place and nothing is touching the frame? Have you got a multimeter? The shotgun method will not help here. Martytoof posted:- What are fork boots for? Is it just to protect against mud/offroad garbage? One of them has a little cracking rubber, the other has a cracked plastic boot ... holder? If I just take them off for now and not replace them until I'm ready to start doing things offroad is that an OK thing or do they serve some other integral purpose? The SM model doesn't seem to have them but I don't know if it has different forks or not. They're just another layer of defense against crap smashing the stanchion chrome and packing the fork seal and dust seal. If you have dust seals under there I'd take them off, of the fork seals themselves are exposed I'd leave them on.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 19:01
|
|
|
I'm currently balls deep in Tuono parts after disassembling half of it to diagnose a no-start problem. I've narrowed it down to something related to the fueling pump as it starts with ether, the battery is always above 12.8V and I've checked the fuel pump harness on the battery side, it's getting 12V. When it first died, it was just idling in the driveway after about 2 hours of city riding According to the manual I measured the fuel pump relay in both powered and unpowered states and got 0 Ohms for both measurements for some reason, it says that unpowered the relay should measure infinity (open loop?) but mine just said 0 for whatever reason. I'm unsure this is the issue though because I also tried to direct connect the pump side of the harness to a battery and nothing happened. I measured for resistance/continuity and got ~4.8 Ohms when putting positive and negative to the corresponding fuel pump prongs. So I assume that means there isn't a break in the wiring? Anyone had to deal with a bad pump before and know what the symptoms/behavior was? I'm just trying to figure out what exactly needs to be replaced in there since the entire pump assembly is about 350$ and it's recommended due to the difficulty in attaching the fuel filter element (looks like a little bag) to the pump if you purchase a non-OEM substitute. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 23:05
|
|
|
The generic pump gauze thing is overstated, it isn't that hard to sort it out, people are just weak and want everything to self assemble. It looks like the actual filter element is #6, the gauze is usually useless as a filter and is just a debris screen for the pump. Assuming you don't have a fuel pressure tester, which is the 'right' way, I would run 12 directly to the two pump terminals with the fuel line disconnected from the rail and pointing in a bucket (or just use a length of hose). It should jet out pretty loving rapidly. Failing fuel pumps can range anywhere from bike doesn't start to bike starts and idles but won't ride, to bike rides but coughs and sputters under power. Sometimes they only play up after a long ride with low fuel level because they get too hot and seize, it's why you shouldn't run around with the low fuel light too much.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2021 23:55
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:What's the oil check process on a DRZ400? I got a clymer manual but not the original owner manual. I've deduced: Generically (i.e. I'm not 100% sure if it applies to the DRZ specifically but I'd be very surprised if it didn't) if there's any oil at all on the dipstick when it's cold it'll be absolutely fine to start.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 00:15
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:The generic pump gauze thing is overstated, it isn't that hard to sort it out, people are just weak and want everything to self assemble. It looks like the actual filter element is #6, the gauze is usually useless as a filter and is just a debris screen for the pump. that's interesting because it sounds pretty close to what i was noticing. the PO put a bunch of mods i'm now convinced he had no idea what they did onto it including a modified fuel map EPROM as well as replaced a bunch of poo poo in the fuel tank... looks like i'm paying for that now while it WAS working, i noticed it would sputter/bog after i shifted past 3rd under power. after a little bit it would sort itself out or if i downshifted. i assumed it was the fuel map chip but i guess it was the pump just dying
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 02:09
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Try checking if the indicator switch is working. The brief flicker implies a short to earth, are you sure you got the wires all in the right place and nothing is touching the frame? Have you got a multimeter? The shotgun method will not help here. tbh I disliked the old indicators and wanted new ones of my choosing anyway, I didn't expect that to fix it since I was already advised it could be the relay. I'm fairly sure I got the wires right, considering all I did was snip the old ones and use wago (is this a brand name or the style?) connectors while matching up the colors. I'll double check while looking for exposed wires, though the everything looked pretty well placed and wrapped up to my untrained eye. I've got a multimeter, what am I looking for?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 04:30
|
|
|
Getting real tempted to buy a radial front brake master cylinder for my 2008 SV650SF and some rearsets. Can anyone decrypt the various Brembo master cylinders that are available or suggest which one would best fit the stock SV brake calipers? This one seems like the "right price" and STG says it fits the SV, but there are several variations: https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/brembo-19mmx18mm-gp-mk2-radial-brake-master-cylinder/ Or this version that's $60 more with a folding brake lever: https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/brembo-19mmx18mm-gp-mk2-radial-brake-master-cylinder-w-folding-lever/ Scrolling through old SV Rider threads, it sounds like the R6 and R1 brembo BMCs might also be good swaps, but the model years referenced are 15+ years old now. I'm generally comfortable with my R6 throttle tube, but I'm not sure about picking up a random BMC off ebay that would probably need to be rebuilt or something. Any thoughts here?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 07:18
|
|
|
Razzled posted:that's interesting because it sounds pretty close to what i was noticing. the PO put a bunch of mods i'm now convinced he had no idea what they did onto it including a modified fuel map EPROM as well as replaced a bunch of poo poo in the fuel tank... looks like i'm paying for that now Check inside the tank, you may just have a rupture in the line going from the pump to the filter. Very common PO ailment on Ducatis at least, I've never seen the inside of a tuono tank but the diagram looks very ducatish. But Not Tonight posted:tbh I disliked the old indicators and wanted new ones of my choosing anyway, I didn't expect that to fix it since I was already advised it could be the relay. I'm fairly sure I got the wires right, considering all I did was snip the old ones and use wago (is this a brand name or the style?) connectors while matching up the colors. I'll double check while looking for exposed wires, though the everything looked pretty well placed and wrapped up to my untrained eye. I've got a multimeter, what am I looking for? I had to google those connectors, I have never seen them before but they look like something designed for a car stereo and are really not the thing. Bullet connectors or weatherpack connectors are more appropriate. But if it's all wired correctly it likely isn't the problem. If you fitted new indicators, and they're LED, they will not function properly with the factory relay but this usually just makes them flash super fast. They're also polarized and the wire colors may not have anything to do with the factory colors. If all of that is fine, check for 12v at the relay, the connector to the switch, the indicator. If you want to check the switch, find the three wires and run a continuity test at the various switch positions. Check that the indicator earths have continuity to earth. MetaJew posted:Getting real tempted to buy a radial front brake master cylinder for my 2008 SV650SF and some rearsets. Going to a radial will give you a wooden feel and sudden bite, with a frustrating lack of actual power, because the SV's issue is the crappy sliding calipers. I would calculate the cost of a basic brembo vs r6 MC + rebuild kit and get the cheapest, the performance difference is academic. I would get braided lines if you don't have them already, they are the best bang for buck improvement you can make. I would get high quality sintered pads if you haven't already. I would clean and grease the caliper slides thoroughly, clean the pad seats and shims and everything else too. None of this will greatly improve stopping power, it will just make it easier to get the most out of it. The real fix is switching to 4 piston calipers, easily done by just swapping to a gsxr600 front end which also kills another bird, the terrible stock forks. It is a life-changing upgrade for the SV, that + a zx6 shock pretty much transforms them into a race bike because the SV has like, a GP level chassis. Idk what prices are like now but you used to be able to pick up a complete gixxer front end for less than the cost of refurbishing brakes and forks on an SV, the swap is fairly painless but you do need to move to an alternative solution for the speedo, which isn't for everyone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 08:40
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:the SV has like, a GP level chassis On a tangent, is there much difference between the generations of SV chassis in terms of said stiffness? The aluminium tube truss vs the diamond aluminium truss vs the steel tube truss
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 09:34
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Going to a radial will give you a wooden feel and sudden bite, with a frustrating lack of actual power, because the SV's issue is the crappy sliding calipers. I would calculate the cost of a basic brembo vs r6 MC + rebuild kit and get the cheapest, the performance difference is academic. I would get braided lines if you don't have them already, they are the best bang for buck improvement you can make. I would get high quality sintered pads if you haven't already. I would clean and grease the caliper slides thoroughly, clean the pad seats and shims and everything else too. I don't think a GSXR600 front end swap works very well with the SV650S model-- I've only ever seen it done on the naked models. That said there's a local suspension guy that has been recommending some drop in cartridges to improve the front suspension. At the moment, I just have it resprung for my weight and have valve emulators installed. On the rear I have an Ohlins shock that he just rebuilt, also sprung for my weight. I've been avoiding dumping much more money into it, because I think I eventually want to buy an Aprilia RS660. With the factory BMC, the front brake lever feel is always a little spongy. I've managed to improve it some by bleeding them, and then pumping the pistons out a few centimeters and scrubbing them with soapy water until the pistons push out evenly from the caliper-- instead of one piston pushing out farther than the other. More recently when I tried this, I could not seem to get the pistons synchronized. Maybe a brake caliper rebuild is in order. Edit: And yes I have SS brake lines.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:On a tangent, is there much difference between the generations of SV chassis in terms of said stiffness? The aluminium tube truss vs the diamond aluminium truss vs the steel tube truss Idk enough about the first gen to say. The diamond frame is widely regarded as the best. The gladius works just as well but it's heavier. I've not played around with the current trellis design. MetaJew posted:I don't think a GSXR600 front end swap works very well with the SV650S model-- I've only ever seen it done on the naked models. That said there's a local suspension guy that has been recommending some drop in cartridges to improve the front suspension. At the moment, I just have it resprung for my weight and have valve emulators installed. On the rear I have an Ohlins shock that he just rebuilt, also sprung for my weight. I've been avoiding dumping much more money into it, because I think I eventually want to buy an Aprilia RS660. They will never be synchronizing or whatever, that's a bizarre thing to consider. One will always have slightly more friction or whatever and all it takes is a tiny bit of resistance to make the other one move instead, like an open diff on a car. When they're both against the pad they'll both move evenly. The slide pins are the main thing, if they're worn they create sideways play that takes up some of the MC travel. If you already have suspension work done it's not worth doing a fork swap, iirc you can buy brackets that let you fit 4 pot nissins which would be worthwhile, but then you need a bigger MC anyway so you may as well get one of those first.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2021 19:41
|
|
|
 I figured I would update you guys on my bike delivery. Surprise! It's a HUGE Italian bagger that shouldn't exist lol Shipping guy sucked. Delivered away from my house with a dead battery and scuffs on the bags, he didn't help at all and just left. Rode it home in the rain with no plate or temp tags after jump starting it. The delivery driver thought the bleeders on the handlebars was to put air in the shocks  (I really hope he didn't try it)The big issue is the bike has the ABS and traction light steady on. There is a system called MGCT that let's you adjust the traction control levels on the modern Guzzis. The lights are supposed to flash and go out. I can't re-enable the MGCT as the right handgrip mode button won't move left or right on mine. I'm completely lost on this thing lol Dealer has been no help and is all the way in NV I am north of Pittsburgh. There's no dealers around me even if I wanted to pay out of pocket to diagnose it. Oh yeah I still can't legally ride it. No plates or paperwork was ready with the bike.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 04:48
|
|
|
Return it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 09:27
|
|
|
BrownieVK posted:
Sweet fancy Moses. You need to get Guzzi corporate on the line and skip the dealership. This is totally unacceptable for a $4k bike, much less whatever this thing cost. Is the shipper their shipper or yours?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 14:57
|
|
|
Gorson is correct.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 17:26
|
|
|
Would this be the right thread for questions about a battery/issue with a 2013 F800GS?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 18:22
|
|
|
Captain McAllister posted:Would this be the right thread for questions about a battery/issue with a 2013 F800GS? Yes sir, it’s the Questions thread, don’t ask to ask, just ask 
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 18:26
|
|
|
On the one hand that seems par for the course for guzzi ownership. On the other, you need to tell someone to go gently caress themselves and make it right. drat
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 18:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 12:11 |
|
|
Is routing a speedo cable and brake line down the forks through these … … a terrible idea? I replaced the fork mounted boot holders on my DRZ but the original cable routing thing snapped. I can’t think of an reason it would be awful but who knows.I gather I’d just need to make sure there’s no compression on the forks when I mount it so I know it’ll never extend beyond where it’s held…
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2021 18:50
|
|