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Khorne posted:What is the best way to put OBS on the worse CCX of my 5950x & try to make sure games run on the other CCX. I've been playing some fps games & trying to record/stream them but my fps mins get screwed up really bad with OBS running and there's noticeable input delay while aiming. I think it's due to the fps games I'm playing being real old & capped at 333 fps & using not even half of the fastest core because with the same OBS settings I can play far more demanding games with no perceivable change in minimum fps. On a 5950 the root problem might be that the game is getting moved back and forth from one CCX to the other, which is bad because the cache then has to get moved over. Windows scheduler is supposed to avoid that, but in the case of an old game + OBS I bet it's getting tricked into thinking that OBS is the most important app that it needs to give priority -- it's using the most CPU time after all. So I'd go for setting the game to run on only one core, or a short selection of cores on one CCX. If the cache issue is what's causing the slowdown, that's the best way to solve it. On windows you can launch a program with start /affinity with a hex mask to lock which cores it uses.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 15:41 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 04:47 |
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Klyith posted:So I'd go for setting the game to run on only one core, or a short selection of cores on one CCX. If the cache issue is what's causing the slowdown, that's the best way to solve it. CCX hopping also makes sense. It's very strange how it makes aiming feel. It's almost like streaming used to feel in 2010 where you gain significant input delay from it, but back then I had a terrible 2 core processor. Khorne fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Aug 27, 2021 |
# ? Aug 27, 2021 15:49 |
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Khorne posted:I think this is going to be hard because it launches through a few layers of launchers/anticheat obfuscation junk. You can do it manually in the details tab of task manager but that sucks. Your powershell idea was the right idea, turns out you can do that easily.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 15:59 |
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Internet Explorer posted:Pretty sure this is too long. If the thread wants to come up with something a little shorter/wittier, I'll be happy to change it. Windows 10: I don't need these security features, right? Windows 10: I know what I'm doing Windows 10: regediting ourselves out of self inflicted problems
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 18:33 |
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Party Boat posted:Windows 10: I know what I'm doing It's absolutely this.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 18:43 |
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Lmao I know what I'm doing is good enough for the whole forum
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 19:20 |
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Party Boat posted:Windows 10: I know what I'm doing
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 19:43 |
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Party Boat posted:Windows 10: I know what I'm doing Perfect.
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# ? Aug 27, 2021 19:56 |
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Klyith posted:You can do it manually in the details tab of task manager but that sucks. I have no idea why. Possibly the anticheat. I haven't seen this behavior in other games.
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# ? Aug 29, 2021 17:26 |
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Party Boat posted:Windows 10: I know what I'm doing Holy poo poo I am posting this after it’s already this one but felt it needed love!
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# ? Aug 30, 2021 15:17 |
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I recently got a new printer, and apparently in order to get it to print duplex, I have to install the PCL driver rather than whatever Windows automatically installed. I downloaded the package from Xerox, but when I point the "update driver" dialog at that folder, it tells me that the best driver is already installed. How can I force it to let me override the driver?
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 00:54 |
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hooah posted:I recently got a new printer, and apparently in order to get it to print duplex, I have to install the PCL driver rather than whatever Windows automatically installed. I downloaded the package from Xerox, but when I point the "update driver" dialog at that folder, it tells me that the best driver is already installed. How can I force it to let me override the driver? update drivers -> browse my computer for drivers -> let me pick from a list -> A/B choice A: if the xerox thing was an installer that put the drivers onto the system, it should be on that list B: if the xerox thing was just a zip package that unpacked into files including a .inf, use have disk... and then browse to the xerox drivers
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 01:02 |
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Klyith posted:update drivers -> browse my computer for drivers -> let me pick from a list -> A/B choice Yeah, that's what I meant by the update driver dialog. It's just a zip with some folders, so I chose option B.
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 01:04 |
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I ended up just biting the bullet and grabbing the bundled installer from Xerox. At least I could uncheck the extra utilities it wanted to install, but duplex printing works now (sort of; turns out it's manual duplex).
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 02:29 |
what's this gap in the bar down here? middle highlighted space. doesn't seem to do anything when clicked, don't remember it being there yesterday? dont recall an update either, did have a weird issue when i tried to wake up my computer this morning, wouldnt wake up, when power off and turn back on had a hard drive check/restore thing goin on. don't think they're connected, just why im even paranoid looking at details today.
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 17:55 |
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papa horny michael fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Sep 2, 2021 |
# ? Sep 2, 2021 18:07 |
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Show desktop is normally to the right of the clock. That space usually shows a button labeled with the current keyboard locale. It normally shows ENG if you're using an English layout.
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 18:12 |
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Khanstant posted:
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# ? Sep 2, 2021 20:53 |
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Khanstant posted:
See if resetting the tray icon cache fixes it? https://winaero.com/how-to-reset-ta...ystrayiconcache
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# ? Sep 3, 2021 06:49 |
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Does anyone know how to prevent Windows 10 from prioritizing USB tethering instead of Wifi? I recently enabled my iPhone's mobile hotspot, and now whenever I plug it into my computer Windows 10 chooses to use it over my Wifi connection. The only "solution" I've found elsewhere is to disable USB devices entirely, which, uh... isn't really a solution? I can also manually disable my mobile hotspot every time I want to connect via USB, but that's a bit of an annoyance if there's a way to make Windows do the sensible thing automatically.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 14:58 |
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I never found a solution, though what I wanted is for it to prioritize one WiFi connection over another, cause it would usually default to the slower one.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 15:04 |
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Jigsaw posted:Does anyone know how to prevent Windows 10 from prioritizing USB tethering instead of Wifi? I recently enabled my iPhone's mobile hotspot, and now whenever I plug it into my computer Windows 10 chooses to use it over my Wifi connection. The only "solution" I've found elsewhere is to disable USB devices entirely, which, uh... isn't really a solution? I can also manually disable my mobile hotspot every time I want to connect via USB, but that's a bit of an annoyance if there's a way to make Windows do the sensible thing automatically. Can't you just simply disable the Iphone network adapter in the Windows Control Panel?
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 15:09 |
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Can you not just turn the hotspot on and off in the pull-down menu like on Android? It takes like three seconds. I can't think of any reason I'd want hotspot turned on by default in the home, or even most of the time outside the home.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 15:12 |
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Doctor_Fruitbat posted:Can you not just turn the hotspot on and off in the pull-down menu like on Android? It takes like three seconds. I can't think of any reason I'd want hotspot turned on by default in the home, or even most of the time outside the home. Yeah you press-hold on the wifi icon in the pull down control center and it expands and there's a hotspot toggle in there. Not going to blame anyone for not knowing about that completely undiscoverable interaction
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 19:05 |
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Jigsaw posted:Does anyone know how to prevent Windows 10 from prioritizing USB tethering instead of Wifi? I recently enabled my iPhone's mobile hotspot, and now whenever I plug it into my computer Windows 10 chooses to use it over my Wifi connection. The only "solution" I've found elsewhere is to disable USB devices entirely, which, uh... isn't really a solution? I can also manually disable my mobile hotspot every time I want to connect via USB, but that's a bit of an annoyance if there's a way to make Windows do the sensible thing automatically. You may be able to do that by adjusting the metric values. I've done that ages ago to prioritize between ethernet, WiFi and VPN. Go to Network and Internet - Ethernet, on the top right choose "Change adapter options". This brings you to the old Control Panel. Right click the adapter you want to adjust, choose Properties, in the items-list choose "Internet Protocol Version 4" and click Properties. On the next window click Advanced and then uncheck "Automatic metric" and set a suitable value. Values between 10 and 100 probably work okay, smaller is higher priority. Repeat this to all competing adapters. But this is pretty arcane stuff and I wouldn't be surprised if Microsoft has fucker things up in Win 10 and with weirder adapters.
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# ? Sep 8, 2021 22:10 |
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Saukkis posted:You may be able to do that by adjusting the metric values. I've done that ages ago to prioritize between ethernet, WiFi and VPN. Yeah, I found that option while searching after the original post, but it didn’t seem to work for me. I might mess with it again. For now I can just use the long-press in the pull-down menu on iOS that Jenny Agutter pointed out (which I indeed didn’t know about, so thanks!).
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# ? Sep 9, 2021 15:47 |
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Fun mystery here - can anyone figure out why Windows thinks my gigabit connection is a 100Mb one when it wakes from sleep? The PC is connected via powerline with every part of the connection being gigabit rated, and on boot Windows correctly shows the connection as gigabit and gets about 350-400Mb on speed tests. However if I allow it to go to sleep and wake it, Windows thinks the connection is a 100Mb one and throttles it accordingly. Is there some setting I can change that'll stop it doing this?
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 18:56 |
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What brand is your onboard Ethernet - Realtek, Intel or another company? I had the same issue with a Realtek NIC, and after endless loving around, figured out that Win 10 kept replacing my existing driver with a newer one, one that caused all sorts of link speed weirdness. Once I reverted back to an older driver, it would stay at 1gb speed even after sleep.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 19:17 |
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Yeah it's Realtek. Stop loving up my computer, crab! There was a setting for "WOL & Shutdown Link Speed" which looks like it reduces the speed of the adapter when in hibernation. I've set that to "not speed down" just in case Windows was struggling with increasing the speed again after it woke up and a quick test of manually putting it to sleep seemed to work. We'll see if it still works when I do wake on LAN.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 20:34 |
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But without Realtek, sound couldn’t work
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 22:04 |
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It seems to be working for now, so the crab and I have reached a truce
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 22:22 |
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What were the two programs/commands for checking reasons for reboots/shutdowns/etc? Twice in a week I’ve woken and my computer is shut down for some reason.
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 23:04 |
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Arivia posted:What were the two programs/commands for checking reasons for reboots/shutdowns/etc? Twice in a week I’ve woken and my computer is shut down for some reason. 1. Reliability Monitor (type reliability in start for the easiest way to get it) -- if the shutdown was unexpected this will show you a red X in the "windows failures" row. If it was a BSOD you'll get an item related to the BSOD that says "windows stopped working" plus one that says "windows was not properly shut down". Example: If it was a hard failure (power loss, a hardlock that required the reset button, or similar) you just get the not properly shut down one. OTOH reliability monitor doesn't show reboots / shutdowns that were intentional. For that you need: 2. Event Viewer - follow these instructions. This will will show you all shutdowns including intentional ones. A shutdown that you did yourself will look like: "The process C:\WINDOWS\system32\winlogon.exe (COMPUTER) has initiated the restart of computer COMPUTER on behalf of user COMPUTER\User for the following reason: No title for this reason could be found"
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 23:40 |
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Two event 41s. Sounds like the recent power outages here probably cooked my PSU or something. drat. Thanks!
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# ? Sep 11, 2021 23:59 |
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jokes posted:But without Realtek, sound couldn’t work If only there was a CREATIVE solution.
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# ? Sep 13, 2021 18:27 |
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Is there anything weird with the way Windows 10 reports on RAM? My dad's old PC was becoming almost unusable, and looking at the Performance tab in the Process Manager it showed 6GB of RAM running at 400Mhz. The sticks are DDR3 and rated up to at least 1333Mhz so I didn't know where that 400 was coming from. Took a look through the BIOS and the memory timing was set to [AUTO] which was claiming to be 1066. If I manually set the multiplier (I don't remember the exact numbers) the smallest value gave me a speed of 800 (which I believe would be reported as 400 in Windows because of DDR(?)), the second value changed the number to 1066 and the third value took it up to 1333, which both the RAM and motherboard should support. Is there a better way to check/configure RAM timings? I didn't want to start changing too much in the BIOS since it already doesn't line up with what we're seeing in Windows.
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# ? Sep 14, 2021 00:35 |
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CPU-Z's Memory tab will show the current RAM speeds (at half the actual speed because DDR does its thing on the rise and fall of the pulse). The SPD tab will show the timings supported by the RAM modules.
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# ? Sep 14, 2021 01:27 |
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Takes No Damage posted:Is there anything weird with the way Windows 10 reports on RAM? My RAM is running slightly off normal clocks (1313 instead of 1333) so it's rounding a bit, but it's displaying the expected clock as would be advertised for this mode. Also apparently I need to figure out what's up with my BIOS RAM mode selection as it's running in the lowest mode and totally ignoring the XMP tables.
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# ? Sep 14, 2021 14:53 |
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My wife's job just became permanently work from home. They gave her a Windows 10 laptop (a really old ThinkPad, but we both love Thinkpads due to the trackpoint mouse so that's cool). Her job is to answer occasional phone calls using a Cisco IP phone emulator program that's on the computer. Anyway the microphone on this thing really sucks because whenever she answers the phone, people can barely understand her. So I bought some cheap wires earbuds that have that little microphone thing on them and when she uses it, everyone says she comes in crystal clear. The only issue is if she leaves it plugged in, she doesn't hear the phone ring which is obviously a huge problem. Leaving it in her ear 10 hours a day isn't really an option. She could simply plug it in when she gets a call but the phone software locks up for a good 15 seconds when doing that so it's not really an option. I guess my question is, is there some way in Windows 10 to have audio play through the laptop speakers even when headphones are plugged in? That way she can both hear the phone ring while the earbud is plugged in, and also quickly put the earbud in her ear to talk to the person. Keep in mind this would have to be a built in feature of Windows 10 because this computer is locked down crazy tight so external software is not an option. Hell, if she so much as plugs in a thumb drive the computer automatically shuts itself down and locks itself.
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# ? Sep 17, 2021 13:24 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 04:47 |
That depends on the softphone used. What do they use to make/take calls? In Microsoft Teams it's possible to configure a secondary ringing device, i.e. another audio device that will also play the ringing sound. Other telephony software should have something similar, where you can choose the device for ringing separate from the device for speak.
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# ? Sep 17, 2021 13:29 |