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Suburban Dad posted:Yeah I've learned my lesson. Or at least that's what I said the last time I worked on a car and hated all of it. I feel this in my primal wrench turning muscles.
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Aug 22, 2021 21:38
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MrYenko posted:Just ditch the old connector and repin it. definitely considering it. surprised that these fully open mate-n-lok's or whatever are appropriate for automotive applications, honestly not a big fan of weatherpack, though. too bulky. metripack is better, although im not head-over-heels for them either
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Aug 23, 2021 06:01
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Raluek posted:definitely considering it. surprised that these fully open mate-n-lok's or whatever are appropriate for automotive applications, honestly Go with DT / Deutsch connectors, then. More compact than most, very much automotive rated BlackMK4 posted:Miata made it to the paint shop If you don't mind me asking, what is this going to cost? And what state of prep did you have the car in before you handed it over?
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Aug 24, 2021 01:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you don't mind me asking, what is this going to cost? And what state of prep did you have the car in before you handed it over? I dunno if I am overpaying or not but $1200 to prep/prime/paint the door, door jamb, and both quarters in 27A Red Mica Tricoat. No blending because I don't care about it. Elevens got the idea of what I wanted and has been super communicative versus a few other guys that quoted more, talked about blending every panel, and ended up flaking on me anyway. I quoted a few people to wrap the whole car and it was in the $1600 area including materials, other paint quotes were in the $1600-2400 area. I brought it in having body filled and smoothed everything out to the best of my ability; based on the pictures it looks like they redid most of what I did and blocked everything they are painting. It went into the booth today.  
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Aug 24, 2021 02:32
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Cool, always good to have more data points. I'd like to get the C10 repainted, someday, maybe, and the ideal for me would be "decent modern factory paint". I'm never going to be able to justify deep five figures for the kinds of paint high end shops lay down.
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Aug 24, 2021 04:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Go with DT / Deutsch connectors, then. More compact than most, very much automotive rated when i think "deutsch" i think "mil-dtl-26482", which, lol. the dt stuff looks pretty good. might cross-shop with metripack
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Aug 24, 2021 08:28
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Raluek posted:when i think "deutsch" i think "mil-dtl-26482", which, lol. the dt stuff looks pretty good. might cross-shop with metripack I mean, why the gently caress not  I've had good luck with Deutsch connectors so far, DT for most things and DTP for anything that might see higher current.
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Aug 24, 2021 17:42
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Miata is painted, he called and said he came in under budget so it is $1100.  
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Aug 24, 2021 18:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:I mean, why the gently caress not The connectors aren't too expensive, but the the crimpers are a bit pricey. e: There's some iWiss crimpers for $34, so not terrible, I guess. I'm using iWiss ratcheting crimpers with interchangeable jaws for various other connectors, and they work fine. I was reminded by the discussion that the connector for the wiper motor on my RX-7 disintegrated when I took the front end apart for painting. Haven't bought the Deutsch (or knockoff/compatible) connectors yet, but I just ordered some generic weatherproof ones (Weather-pak compatible?) and old school 1/2" blade multi connectors for general purposes and repairs. The 1/4" ones should be compatible with older Japanese and American cars for when I need to replace one of the connectors. If both need to go, I'll use the weather resistant ones, especially under the hood. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Aug 24, 2021 |
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Aug 24, 2021 18:52
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Ranzear posted:Get an aftermarket digital flasher instead of the ancient thermal relay manufacturers still use because people are too stupid to check their lights (not that flashing faster gets their attention anyway)? Most cars since the mid 00s already have an electronic flasher. Problem is, it's part of the body control module now, so you CAN'T replace it easily. The BCM/LCM/whatever is still looking for a specific resistance.
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Aug 25, 2021 01:05
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My dad is headed to Frog Follies this weekend. I spent the last 4 days removing the dash, cutting out about 200 butt connectors, 10 in line fuses, and more cobbled up stuff than I care to think about. I mounted and wired a 14 circuit fuse block for him, made the headlights, turn signals, and horn work for him. I also removed the crappy plastic nut dress up bullets on the dash. I replaced them with stainless carriage bolts that I sanded and polished. I'm pretty happy with the result, but I'd like to remove the original gages and put in working ones eventually. 
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Aug 26, 2021 01:26
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Jammed a bunch of insulating foam tape between the dash and windshield on the MINI. Dash rattle is 99% better.
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Aug 27, 2021 15:12
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I used to use expanding foam on Peugeot 205s and 106s to stop… everything rattling in them. Then stripped the interior and cages them for track use despite them being my daily driver as I was young. Note I didn’t add stupid as that is implied.
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Aug 27, 2021 16:31
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Jammed a bunch of insulating foam tape between the dash and windshield on the MINI. Dash rattle is 99% better. If that breaks down on you (it usually does) get some felt. That's the "pro" way to do it from what I've been told and I've had it last for a very, very long time.
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Aug 27, 2021 16:31
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Motronic posted:If that breaks down on you (it usually does) get some felt. That's the "pro" way to do it from what I've been told and I've had it last for a very, very long time. I basically just crammed a bunch down there with a plastic trim tool. If and when it breaks down I’ll try the felt. I was just looking for a solution since I’d already dynamatted the underside of the dash pad and I could tell that the front hard plastic part just needed a cushion/something to push against.
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Aug 27, 2021 17:02
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BlackMK4 posted:Miata is painted, he called and said he came in under budget so it is $1100. Looks good. Gonna have to file that away for future use.
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Aug 27, 2021 18:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Looks good. Gonna have to file that away for future use. I talked to Dylan, the owner of Elevens, about pricing ideas when I went to look at it a couple of days ago. He basically said somewhere in the area of $3-4k for a 'race/drift' car quality job, $5-6k for something more suitable to a street car, and it goes up from there if you're looking for something super nice.
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Aug 27, 2021 18:26
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Replaced the cabin air filter for the first time since I got it in 2019. I used to think these were superfluous at best but I'm impressed with how much dirt it picked up and now I correlate that with how clean it it is inside the truck.
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Aug 28, 2021 01:42
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Pretty much every one I've ever changed has looked like that or worse, it's crazy how fast they get nasty (and gross how tons of people don't know or care that it exists and never touch it and just breathe that nasty poo poo all the time)
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Aug 28, 2021 18:33
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just lol if your "cabin air filter" isn't just, like, the plenum space inside the fenders, and whatever dirt and leaves are packed in there bonus points if the random holes and gaps in the firewall and floor contribute significantly to the ventilation in the car
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Aug 28, 2021 19:43
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Raluek posted:just lol if your "cabin air filter" isn't just, like, the plenum space inside the fenders, and whatever dirt and leaves are packed in there That’s how to keep that nice crisp outdoorsy smell in the car. Pro move is to allow wildlife into the air gaps as well so you get the fresh rodenty aroma.
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Aug 28, 2021 19:47
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Raluek posted:just lol if your "cabin air filter" isn't just, like, the plenum space inside the fenders, and whatever dirt and leaves are packed in there I have the front arches off the MX5 and pulled the lower windscreen trim off too. While Im in there I removed the little plastic bit that sits round the intake for the ventilation. What was there would absolutely explain the amount of poo poo that flies through the vents in the car when I turn on the fan to high. Just loads of crumbly dried leaves, seeds and other bits of detritus packed round it. Cleaned that poo poo out. Someone must have added even the most basic of filters under there after finding out it's just a gaping hole with a bit of chicken wire over it... 
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Aug 28, 2021 20:27
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Raluek posted:just lol if your "cabin air filter" isn't just, like, the plenum space inside the fenders, and whatever dirt and leaves are packed in there I feel called out by this post. At least for my “enthusiast” vehicles. The Outback has a cabin filter. I’d like to figure out one for my Crown Vic. Amazingly, they never got one.
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Aug 28, 2021 23:01
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My Outback didn't have one. There was a slot for one, but nothing in it.  Apparently it was only factory installed on H6 cars?
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Aug 29, 2021 13:16
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STR posted:My Outback didn't have one. There was a slot for one, but nothing in it. The H actually means "hepa filter edition".
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Aug 29, 2021 15:00
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Got 15 Kg of Inconel for the M3    The Packaging is oddly nice for a part thats usually not received by customers but directly installed. I was weirded out by the welds at first but after looking it up... just Inconel things. most exquisite stuff i handled before was titanium which apparently welds a lot nicer. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 20:37
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STR posted:My Outback didn't have one. There was a slot for one, but nothing in it. No clue. I was genuinely surprised it had one, though, as you have experienced, it was clearly an afterthought, given how annoying it is to service and the general jankiness.
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Aug 29, 2021 21:22
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Darchangel posted:No clue. I was genuinely surprised it had one, though, as you have experienced, it was clearly an afterthought, given how annoying it is to service and the general jankiness. What, you don’t like trying to keep the glove compartment plastic catches from breaking?
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Aug 29, 2021 22:09
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morethanjake32 posted:What, you don’t like trying to keep the glove compartment plastic catches from breaking? The challenge is thrilling! Thank God that's a once a year thing here, at most. The Kia's was behind the glovebox, too, but there were no screws involved, so a bit easier. I added about 12oz of R-134a to the Outback's AC last week as it seemed to be struggling at dle, like my Crown Vic was, and yeah, that helped. It's still only about 55F idling and sitting still, but get it up to about 1200 RPM and/or moving, and the vent temps will drop to about 40F.  This past week I progressed incrementally on the RX-7: manky (I love that word - thanks, England!) tie rod:  Fresh cleaned and painted bits:  Installed bits:   But found rust on my previous freshly cleaned and painted bits:   Plated some more hardware, some not so successfully, and then redid them better. Surprisingly, that never seems to get easy, at least for me.
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Aug 30, 2021 02:56
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Motronic posted:If that breaks down on you (it usually does) get some felt. That's the "pro" way to do it from what I've been told and I've had it last for a very, very long time. The official BMW solution in several spots, notably the seat belt latches, is the fuzzy half of Velcro with adhesive backing attached to the spot.
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Aug 30, 2021 04:46
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Darchangel posted:The challenge is thrilling! Thank God that's a once a year thing here, at most. The Kia's was behind the glovebox, too, but there were no screws involved, so a bit easier. I have yet to touch the AC on the Vic, but a food grade digital thermometer in the vents shows 34-36 while driving, 34-40 while idling (depending how heat soaked the engine bay is), on max AC. Put it on normal AC and it'll stay around 45. It's enough that on a muggy day, the back window will frost up a bit if I don't carefully aim the vents, roof will also wind up with condensation (there's a rectangular hole in my headliner just behind the ticket light, either from installing the roof mounted antenna, or possibly from a 2nd light that's since been removed?  I figure cold air is making its way up there through that hole)Now that I'm temporarily unemployed, I can actually work on the drat thing. What it needs at the moment: Figure out right front speaker (open circuit, I'm sure the rats nest of wiring behind the RF kick panel has nothing to do with it) Idler pulley Front left wheel (bent) Tires all the way around Header panel (I might try to see if I can use resin to piece the headlight bucket back together instead?  )Headlights aimed Alignment Oil change ATF change Rear defroster Dug into the rear defroster again. (all I can really do at this hour) Here's where we left off, with some minor crash damage (it'll buff out) in the C pillar, and a hint as to why the rear defrost doesn't work:  Last time I dug into it, I checked the other end for power with the defrost switch on, and got none. The greybeards at crownvic.net said power SHOULD come in on the passenger side, so I re-checked, and... oh, there's a light layer of something on the terminal. Let's stab it this time, and.... +12V! Checked the other end of the grid, and got 12V there too. So power is getting to the grid fine, it's just not grounded. I need to cut into that wire and see what that thick part is; it's factory, but I suspect there may be a fusible link in there for some reason. Might just cut a longer piece off of a junkyard Panther. Plan to crimp a terminal on it and ground it to that small bolt in the pillar. I'd rather keep the fusible link in there, if that's what that is; Ford put it there for a reason. Going to change the oil in a bit once it cools off. I haven't changed it since I owned it, and I know it's been well over a year since it was changed. It's close to the full mark and doesn't look horrible, receipt in the glove box says it's only been about 6k miles. I have a Motorcraft FL-820S sitting here, and 6 quarts of HEB's finest store brand synthetic high mileage oil (it's made by Warren, who makes Lubriguard, Coastal, and plenty of other store brand oils - it's not great, but not terrible). That daamge to the pillar, BTW.. I know the back window has been replaced, I know the left rear quarter was hit, I know there's bondo on the C pillar. I'm guessing they used the pillar to pull it back into shape? I wish I'd noticed the bondo before buying the car, but it is what it is. And it was a cheap car (especially these days). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 05:25
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Alarbus posted:The official BMW solution in several spots, notably the seat belt latches, is the fuzzy half of Velcro with adhesive backing attached to the spot. I took note of this on my Ford Escape and GMC Sierra, and I used a couple of fuzz strips in the door cup holder to silence my favorite waterbottle.
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Aug 30, 2021 14:06
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The good news: turns out I didn't have a bent wheel... one of the tires had a loving tumor growing out of it. Another one had a much smaller mass. The bad news: I couldn't find anyone with even one used tire on hand in this size (225/60R16). Went to Walmart. Fucker proceeded to argue that #1, I don't know what size tires I need (excuse me?) and #2, they can't sell me anything but V or above tires - I wanted some cheap H rates tires. Why? "It's an old cop car, it can do up to 140!". Uh, no, it's limited below 130, but you do you, buddy... and while you're at it, get me your manager so I can just go ahead and go Walmart Karen, since (a) you've been arguing with me and (b) "no don't leave dude" and walked in front of me when I tried to leave after I got sick of your poo poo. You REALLY think I'm gonna be trying to use the entire speedometer in this shitpile? I MIIIIGHT get it up to 85 occasionally... that's about as fast as I care to go. The meh news: now I remember why I swore off Walmart for tires. Not only did they take 2 1/2 hours (with no other cars in there and 4 auto/lube jockeys, I assume trying to figure out what size socket to use), they let me know at the end "so we didn't have the tires you wanted on hand, even though we physically checked to make sure we had them... you got Goodyear Vivas instead".  I really don't like Goodyears, they wear out a lot faster than most other brands in my own experience, and you had my phone #.. you were supposed to call or text with any issues.I walked half a mile, got lunch, ate, walked the half mile back, and they hadn't done poo poo. No other cars in there (but a long line of them outside by then), pretty sure 3 of the 4 techs hadn't even moved. They may have been mannequins. Paperwork I got back with it shows they checked all the fluids, all were full, checked all tire pressures (all at 35, which is what the door sticker calls for, and I check them every few days), checked the spare tire (what the gently caress are you guys doing in my trunk?), noted it was at 35, didn't bother noting the fact that the "spare" was completely missing the tread and was essentially a carcass that didn't hold any air (the actual spare is on the front left right now), but wrote down the serial #s of every tire on the car including said "spare", tested the battery and suggested replacement (it's not even 6 months old, and trust me when I say it puts out more than enough amps to set that puny rear end tester on fire - group 65 rated at nearly 1000 amps, 850 cold amps, and I have a 200 amp alternator on top of that), checked the cabin filter and suggested replacement (there isn't a cabin filter), suggested new wiper blades (they're a week old), suggested replacement of the engine air filter (it has <1500 miles on it), noted "multiple major oil leaks" (it doesn't leak at all, there's not even seepage around the front crank pulley), noted "major transmission leaks" (also doesn't leak) and claimed the ATF was "dark and smelled burnt" (it's not new, but it's definitely been changed before, is not dark, does not smell or taste burnt...). Apparently my coolant is also "dark brown" (looks like typical Ford gold coolant to me, though TBH I have no idea if it's ever been changed). Guess they did that while standing around the car staring at it, I never saw the hood open. I guess they didn't realize I was sitting on the curb nearby. They also managed to lose two hubcaps; I could see the loving things on the ground in the shop, tried pointing them out... they said those were from another car (you managed to work on another late P71 in the exact same spot as mine in the 2+ hours it took you to change 2 tires?!). I finally just walked around their chain barricade and grabbed them, walked to the car, and left. gently caress Walmart, but goddamnit I needed tires as cheap as possible. Oh, as for the phone # bit? They were supposed to text when it was ready. I just now got a text about it. I picked the car up a little after 12pm, it's 3:30pm now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 21:20
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That's impressively bad. I'd have called them out on every single "issue" noted, just to embarrass and enrage the Sure, OK - show me. One thing I like about the Kwik Kar I take my junk to for inspection (heh - inspect my junk): they know me, and don't try to bullshit me.
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Sep 1, 2021 00:24
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Honestly. I just wanted to GTFO. I still need 1 tire (I'm running the spare on my front left at the moment, which the PO replaced with an actual brand new tire), but I'll carry it in. As cheap as these tires are, I may just do two - my front right is a used Toyo that's in good shape, but needs to be topped off every other day. And it'd be nice to have all 4 matching. There's a window tint/alarm installation/vehicle inspection place across the street from me. They definitely pencilwhipped the Crown Vic. It should have failed for a dead parking brake (it sets, but doesn't hold the car worth a poo poo) and leaky gas cap (wish they'd actually tested it, would have saved me a bit of chasing my tail when it popped an evap code a few days later), and the passenger side headlight is still just... kinda wedged in there (though it is aimed pretty decently). It's not going anywhere, but you can wiggle it. Brake warning light is a mixed bag, depends on the inspector - in the 'Vic's case, it comes on when the ABS light comes on, and the ABS light is definitely on. It's supposed to be a fail if it doesn't turn off with the parking brake released, but a lot of inspectors know the brake light comes on with the ABS light on some cars. I'm going to have a 19 mile commute each way pretty soon, during rush hour.  They have two different shifts, but only an hour apart; I don't know if traffic will be worse at 6 or 7. Probably 7...
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 11:50
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Is there no Discount Tire in your area? Why go through that nightmare?
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Sep 1, 2021 11:56
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Out the door price was $50 higher at Discount Tire. Normally I'll happily pay Discount's prices, but my bank account didn't agree. Just paid rent, and won't have my first paycheck from the new job until Sept 24th (aside for one day of training, that check will be the 10th), so I'm a bit on the strapped side.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 11:57
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Combat Theory posted:Got 15 Kg of Inconel for the M3 That looks lovely and is going to sound even lovelier. I would love to find one for my E91 even with its pedestrian N52. I can confirm the use of velcro stickies. I used it to quiet the rattle from my pano roof. BMW should stock them in the glovebox from the factory.
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Sep 1, 2021 17:36
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Installed a Ballade Sports TCT on the S2000 Original:  Upgraded:  
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Sep 1, 2021 18:41
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e: nevermind, meh, whatever. I will just say avoid Ballade in the future. They rip off other companies parts and sell poo poo that hasn't been tested. I ran their baffle in my S2000, which ended up vibrating against the pan and dumping a shitload of aluminum through the motor. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 18:52
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