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Steak
Dec 9, 2005

Pillbug


Does this look like it's starting to sharktooth? I've only 500 mi on this but pedal strokes are starting to feel "clunky".

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TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Steak posted:



Does this look like it's starting to sharktooth? I've only 500 mi on this but pedal strokes are starting to feel "clunky".

It looks fine. X-Sync 2 chainrings are designed to work with both Eagle and Flattop chains...their teeth are heavily sculpted.

Also you're, like, using way too much lube and it's becoming a gritty/pasty mess.

Spime Wrangler
Feb 23, 2003

Because we can.

Bilirubin posted:

Whoa, never seen or heard of one of these. Very cool tech!

sadly the company folded after their chinese suppliers went into lockdown in January 2020 and their venture capital partners wouldn't give them money to stick it out

specialized bought all the IP and just got a patent approved for the design this month, so it may come back eventually

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




Spime Wrangler posted:



specialized bought all the IP and just got a patent approved for the design this month, so it may come back eventually

Looking forward to the Turbo Levo S-works LF with linkage fork for $20,000

Steak
Dec 9, 2005

Pillbug

TobinHatesYou posted:

Also you're, like, using way too much lube and it's becoming a gritty/pasty mess.

Ok well now I'm embarrassed

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
I clean the chain, apply lube, then use a clean rag to clean the chain again of any excess.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Steak posted:

Ok well now I'm embarrassed

New chains and new bikes generally come with far too much chain lube in case this is the situation. Apply and then remove as much as you can with a rag. No big deal!

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME
yeah a little degreaser on a rag and wipe the chain down until it's not so sticky/oily, then I usually get a few rides before applying a new lube

Or just strip as much as you can off and apply new lube right away

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Boogalo posted:

Looking forward to the Turbo Levo S-works LF with linkage fork on The Pro's Closet for $17,000

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I think it's great that a mainstream brand bought that design, especially considering specialized's history of letting other brands use their patented linkages for a fee. I think we'll see a greater variety of linkage products than if some boutique brand held the patent.

Psychepath
Apr 30, 2003
I'm planning a boot camp week to learn the basics of wheelies and manuals and the misc of riding trails, and I have about a hundred youtube videos for most, but I can't find a name or videos for the bit where you track stand and reposition the front and rear tires via hops. Does it have a name and does anyone teach it on youtube?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Psychepath posted:

I'm planning a boot camp week to learn the basics of wheelies and manuals and the misc of riding trails, and I have about a hundred youtube videos for most, but I can't find a name or videos for the bit where you track stand and reposition the front and rear tires via hops. Does it have a name and does anyone teach it on youtube?

That's some good poo poo, going to be so much fun progressing. In case you saw it online, don't build a wooden thing for wheelie/manual practice, just learn on something like grass.

I don't think that what you're talking about has a name. I'd find a painted line in a parking lot and try to learn hopping your wheels to either side I guess. Also, see how slowly you can bike between two set points, either on a trail or just on flat ground.

OhsH
Jan 12, 2008
i believe the term is "trials poo poo"

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Steak posted:



Does this look like it's starting to sharktooth? I've only 500 mi on this but pedal strokes are starting to feel "clunky".
Clean your poo poo my guy

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

VelociBacon posted:

That's some good poo poo, going to be so much fun progressing. In case you saw it online, don't build a wooden thing for wheelie/manual practice, just learn on something like grass.

I don't think that what you're talking about has a name. I'd find a painted line in a parking lot and try to learn hopping your wheels to either side I guess. Also, see how slowly you can bike between two set points, either on a trail or just on flat ground.

maybe I'm old but the big part that's keeping me from manualing (and probably wheelie-ing) is not knowing how to find the balance point and instinctively panicking when I get too far back. Even with flats.
I think a manual box would be great for helping me figure out where that point is, I can already do the motion to get the front end up

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Levitate posted:

maybe I'm old but the big part that's keeping me from manualing (and probably wheelie-ing) is not knowing how to find the balance point and instinctively panicking when I get too far back. Even with flats.
I think a manual box would be great for helping me figure out where that point is, I can already do the motion to get the front end up

The problem with the manual boxes is that the big trick to manualing is that you're extending your legs to bring the back tire forward under you, you don't get that in any way with the manual boxes which instead have you pulling back on the bars or learning back. I'm sure it can work for some people but then when you lose the box you have a whole bunch of muscle memory to unlearn.

100% you need to learn to wheelie before trying to manual. I would start with being in a comfortable low gear, finger on the rear brake such that your pads are barely contacting (like BARELY), it helps to have your seat fairly high as this means your bike doesn't have to come back as far for you to reach that equilibrium point. Give it a strong 1-2-3 pedal strokes to get the wheel up and then keep some cadence going to keep it there - get a feel for how little you have to brake to bring the wheel down when it starts to come up too high.

If you're already getting the front end up I would say force yourself to keep pedaling even if you're dragging the rear brake a bit during that.

I'm old too! 36.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Levitate posted:

yeah a little degreaser on a rag and wipe the chain down until it's not so sticky/oily, then I usually get a few rides before applying a new lube

Or just strip as much as you can off and apply new lube right away

The thought of a "few rides" after degrease and removing all the lube... the sound it must make.

Eejit
Mar 6, 2007

Swiss Army Cockatoo
Cacatua multitoolii

I would recommend a chain cleaner like the Park Tool CM 5.3 or similar. Good at getting the chain clean enough of all the various trail grit that accumulates. I use mine a few times per season on both my MTB and road bike. Just remember to hose off the degreaser before applying lube.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

spwrozek posted:

The thought of a "few rides" after degrease and removing all the lube... the sound it must make.

Wiping the chain with a rag with degreaser on it as he described is not gonna remove all the lube where it matters

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Steve French posted:

Wiping the chain with a rag with degreaser on it as he described is not gonna remove all the lube where it matters

fair. I guess I am just thinking about how much cleaning the OP needs to do. better to completely clean it and then re-lube it imo.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

spwrozek posted:

fair. I guess I am just thinking about how much cleaning the OP needs to do. better to completely clean it and then re-lube it imo.

Yeah, that's probably what I'd do too. But I sort of like the idea for quick cleaning before a ride or something, stuffing that in my back pocket.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

VelociBacon posted:

The problem with the manual boxes is that the big trick to manualing is that you're extending your legs to bring the back tire forward under you, you don't get that in any way with the manual boxes which instead have you pulling back on the bars or learning back. I'm sure it can work for some people but then when you lose the box you have a whole bunch of muscle memory to unlearn.

100% you need to learn to wheelie before trying to manual. I would start with being in a comfortable low gear, finger on the rear brake such that your pads are barely contacting (like BARELY), it helps to have your seat fairly high as this means your bike doesn't have to come back as far for you to reach that equilibrium point. Give it a strong 1-2-3 pedal strokes to get the wheel up and then keep some cadence going to keep it there - get a feel for how little you have to brake to bring the wheel down when it starts to come up too high.

If you're already getting the front end up I would say force yourself to keep pedaling even if you're dragging the rear brake a bit during that.

I'm old too! 36.

Yeah I've heard that criticism of them, I just feel like the balance point is the big sticking point for me. good point on trying the wheelies I should practicing them more of a go

spwrozek posted:

fair. I guess I am just thinking about how much cleaning the OP needs to do. better to completely clean it and then re-lube it imo.

Yeah I was just responding to the discussion about new chains and how much factory oil they usually come with

that chain in question I'd do a deep clean on as you say

Steak
Dec 9, 2005

Pillbug
Alright I'm getting roasted for my gunk. Since I'm cheap I just used degreaser and a rag and various brushes and a hose and it's better but not perfect. It's drying now so I've no idea if it helped or not with the clunkiness but if it still feels bad I guess I'll suck it up and get the park tool thing. It'd be nice to have anyway. The chain is definitely getting to the point of needing to be replaced though...

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
From the sliver of chainring in the pic, the wear seems ok. I think there's still some anodization on the troughs?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Steak posted:

I just used degreaser and a rag and various brushes and a hose and it's better but not perfect. It's drying now
wait til your degreaser's all gone to relube.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I want a 4 pot, mineral fluid brake with a carbon lever blade to replace my TRP Slate T4 (because power is meh and the bite point tracks pad wear, and one of the loving pistons just wont loving retract properly). Carbon lever blade is for weather, not weight.
Are Magura MT7 Pro HC my only hope? I don't like changing the pads on my SO's MT5 but that's about all I can fault them for.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Sep 1, 2021

skul-gun
Dec 24, 2001
I got this account for Xmas.

kimbo305 posted:

From the sliver of chainring in the pic, the wear seems ok. I think there's still some anodization on the troughs?

Looks like a steel chainring to me. It's probably fine?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

evil_bunnY posted:

I want a 4 pot, mineral fluid brake with a carbon lever blade to replace my TRP Slate T4 (because power is meh and the bite point tracks pad wear, and one of the loving pistons just wont loving retract properly). Carbon lever blade is for weather, not weight.
Are Magura MT7 Pro HC my only hope? I don't like changing the pads on my SO's MT5 but that's about all I can fault them for.

Zee's or Saints with an aftermarket lever imo.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

somebody makes those? i can’t find anyone with a cursory google.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

evil_bunnY posted:

somebody makes those? i can’t find anyone with a cursory google.

Yeah I can't find anything either, I thought there were options. Sorry!

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

evil_bunnY posted:

Carbon lever blade is for weather, not weight.

Curious about this, haven't heard about it before. What kind of weather is a carbon blade good for?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

VelociBacon posted:

Yeah I can't find anything either, I thought there were options. Sorry!

:arghfist::goleft:

Aphex- posted:

Curious about this, haven't heard about it before. What kind of weather is a carbon blade good for?
The cold kind, so resting your index finger on the blade doesn't instantly give it hypothermia.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum
Ah fair enough, I have some nice toasty 100% brisker gloves so I never notice the cold!

ought ten
Feb 6, 2004

It’s getting too dark for evening rides which means I’m thinking about lights. The various review sites point me to multi-hundred dollar set ups with thousands of lumens. Riding buddies point me to no-name Amazon offerings for :10bux:s and like high hundreds of lumens. Which way do you all go? This is for non-racing, pretty flat and techy riding.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
The Amazon specials usually have lousy batteries. They can be worth it if you’re willing to buy new battery packs for them.

If I were shopping and I planned to night ride regularly, I’d probably go with something from Outbound Lighting. Reviewed well and the prices are decent for a good light setup. If I weren’t night riding often I’d take my chances with whatever the MTBR cheap lights threads are recommending these days. There’s a ton of info on Amazon lights in that forum.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I've had a cheap magicshine knockoff for years and it worked well enough, it's just annoying to deal with a battery pack but if you're out for multiple hours in the dark the bigger batteries help. I keep my bar light on low and the helmet light off when i'm not descending though so they tend to last long enough, then I also bring a spare to get me home if everything runs out.

I think I'm going to break down and buy the outbound hangover at retail for my helmet despite getting things at cost through my shop. It looks really good as a self contained light that puts out a good pattern and isn't too heavy to put on a helmet. I have a big chunky light and motion taz 1200 that i tried on the handlebars last fall and was pretty happy with it for trail riding, although I think I would not buy any more of their stuff after my urban 500 had the charging port break off and also the mounts are not that great.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME
Yeah I was just thinking of getting an Outbound since it's getting dark in the morning. Sure I'll have a brief reprieve when DST kicks in/out but that's 2 months away and my experience from last year is that eventually I'll be trying to ride down stuff that's tough to see properly without a helmet light

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

evil_bunnY posted:

I want a 4 pot, mineral fluid brake with a carbon lever blade to replace my TRP Slate T4 (because power is meh and the bite point tracks pad wear, and one of the loving pistons just wont loving retract properly). Carbon lever blade is for weather, not weight.
Are Magura MT7 Pro HC my only hope? I don't like changing the pads on my SO's MT5 but that's about all I can fault them for.

Search for “brake lever sleeve” on Amazon. $10 will get you a bunch of rubber covers that solve the problem. I’ve gotten so used to them I ride them all year.

pinarello dogman
Jun 17, 2013

I have an Outbound Hangover and like it a lot. The self contained aspect is big for me, as strapping batteries to your helmet or frame is a pain.

The $20 lights are fine for the price, but I was always worried about burning my house down. You get what you pay for with the pricier lights. Don't trust the lumen claims on the cheap lights.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Agee with brake lever sleeve for preventing the cold finger.

I run a couple cyoglite, one on the bar, one on the helmet. one is 550 and one is 1100 lumens.

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