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Yeah, if it's on the R&M Load 75, you probably can't get much better for an OEM price.
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Aug 19, 2021 14:16
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Voodoofly posted:Anyone know if it’s possible to refit a Bosch down tube battery from one bike manufacturer to another? Like say a 650w battery from a scott bike to use in a trek or specialized bike with otherwise the same battery but different casing and locking mechanism? Just wanted to follow up on this again. Trying to figure out if I have a useless extra battery if I go for a different brand rather than wait six months for another Scott to replace my stolen bike.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:34
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Voodoofly posted:Just wanted to follow up on this again. Trying to figure out if I have a useless extra battery if I go for a different brand rather than wait six months for another Scott to replace my stolen bike. If the old bike and the new bike use the same kind of battery, e.g. Bosch Power Tubes, then yes. Otherwise: no (not easily). It looks like some Scott bikes use Bosch Power Tubes, as do some of the Trek bikes I looked at. Post a picture of the battery and say what kind of replacement you're looking for, and we can help find bikes that will fit that battery.
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Aug 19, 2021 17:53
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My old bike was a Scott eGenius 920. There is a large Trek Rail 9.2 coming available in November that I'm debating so I don't have to wait until March or April in next year. Both have the Bosch 625w tube, and I can tell both of the actually batteries are the same, but having demoed the trek the plastic casing and locking mechanism for fitting it into the downtube are completely different - there is no way my old Scott battery can be put into the Trek without some sort of modification. There might also be a couple other bike options from different bikes that also have a bosch 625w battery depending on availability and cancellations as well. Basically if I already have a spare battery for a different bike it makes it a little easier to pay more for something else quicker, I just don't know how feasible that would be. Voodoofly fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Aug 19, 2021 |
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Aug 19, 2021 18:19
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You might find with today’s crazy pricing the old battery is worth more on eBay than a second new battery for a new bike
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Aug 19, 2021 18:27
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I am sort of casually looking at e mtbs. I am concerned about the long term serviceability of batteries from smaller bike makers. It seems like everyone uses a proprietary housing for the battery. Are there companies already out there that can rebuild batteries? I am thinking specifically brands like YT and Commencal. I’m not finding much via google.
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Aug 20, 2021 20:27
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n8r posted:I am sort of casually looking at e mtbs. I am concerned about the long term serviceability of batteries from smaller bike makers. It seems like everyone uses a proprietary housing for the battery. Are there companies already out there that can rebuild batteries? I am thinking specifically brands like YT and Commencal. I’m not finding much via google. Yes is the short answer, reconditioning/rebuilding ebike batteries is 100% a thing, you just got to check the place can crack open your casing before you buy - https://batteryworldshop.com/pages/e-bike-battery-rebuilds is a reputable place in the U.K. for example. Edit: American site https://www.hicbattery.com/ You can extend your battery for years and years by keeping it between 20% and 80% something like 3000 cycles before it starts to lose efficiency iirc, you just got to let it balance by going to 100% once in a while. learnincurve fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Aug 20, 2021 |
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Aug 20, 2021 20:40
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learnincurve posted:You can extend your battery for years and years by keeping it between 20% and 80% something like 3000 cycles before it starts to lose efficiency iirc, you just got to let it balance by going to 100% once in a while. It's this. Baby your batteries a little and you'll slow down their degradation to a remarkable degree. Don't fully charge unless you need the range, charge early and often. Don't store them at 100% if you can avoid it. Don't charge or discharge a freezing cold battery if you can avoid it. I have a bunch of these: https://www.amazon.com/Acogedor-Monitoring-Over-Voltage-Under-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07R8ZV65J/ They're easy enough to install on an existing normal charger to limit the charge to a pre-set voltage. It's such an important function for the life of the pack that it should be mandatory that all LiPo chargers should have the necessary circuitry built in, preferably with a simpler U.I. than those relays I use. Whenever I need to buy a new battery pack I think that it's time to build that nickel strip spot welder from the parts I've already gathered and rebuild my own drat packs like a proper greybeard, but since I got serious about battery babying them I haven't had to replace any.
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Aug 21, 2021 08:24
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My solution was to buy a second eMTB bike for the 6 months of the year we have terrible weather, thus doubling the battery life on the Dutch eBike. (Both were bought at under half retail price from https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/moorelargeoutlet who sell John Lewis and catalogue returns)
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Aug 21, 2021 12:29
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Invalido posted:I have a bunch of these: https://www.amazon.com/Acogedor-Monitoring-Over-Voltage-Under-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07R8ZV65J/ Interesting device. Looking at it, it will open the charging circuit if the voltage either gets to a maximum voltage to prevent overcharge OR a minimum voltage to prevent deep draining? I have a finicky solar charger that will for some reason randomly discharge a deep cycle battery over night. I'd like to prevent that from happening...
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Aug 24, 2021 22:14
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Pitre posted:Interesting device. Looking at it, it will open the charging circuit if the voltage either gets to a maximum voltage to prevent overcharge OR a minimum voltage to prevent deep draining? I've only used them to limit the charging voltage but they do indeed have lots of menu settings including modes for undervoltage protection. They need power to function though, so I'm not sure what would happen if the relay cut the voltage that also drives it, and if you don't wire it that way you'd have a small permanent drain from the relay itself, I have no idea how big a drain but I could measure it if you're interested, or maybe the manual says. This model needs to be driven with 24-48 volts DC (which is convenient for charging my e-bikes since it's driven by the same voltage it monitors and switches, so if you have a 12v solar system this particular model probaly won't work for your application. There are other models optimised for other applications (My 48v chargers actually put out 53v or so which these units seems to handle without problems but a 72v system might kill it unless you have a different voltage to drive it from somewhere else other than the charger/bike battery.
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Aug 25, 2021 07:56
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learnincurve posted:You can extend your battery for years and years by keeping it between 20% and 80% something like 3000 cycles before it starts to lose efficiency iirc, you just got to let it balance by going to 100% once in a while.
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Aug 25, 2021 08:03
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Anyone have any experience with ebikes from Charge? The 'City' looks to be comparable to similar models from Rad Power. My girlfriend is looking for something she can commute on, she's 5' 2", so that limits things a bit. She's just at the low end of what they say is comfortable, although I wish this came with 650b wheels on the step-through model: https://www.chargebikes.com/products/city-electric-bike
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Aug 25, 2021 17:34
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cross posting this to get some more eyeballs. not a purely ebike related problem but a problem with an ebike nonetheless A couple of months ago I bought an Ride1Up and I'm having trouble eliminating what I'm assuming is something lightly striking the rotor on the rear disc brakes. No one wants to work on these things apparently and I feel like I've re-adjusted the calipers so many times that I'm kind of out of ideas. I have to be going quite fast (like 15mph according to the speedo) before it will irregularly start happening and it sounds like a ringing which is why I assume something must be striking the rotor. It does not happen if I'm holding up the rear wheel and applying the throttle so something about me sitting on the bike must also be necessary to make it happen. Any suggestions? The only thing I haven't been able to adjust is the dial on the back side of the calipers because the motor is in the rear hub and there is like less than 10mm of clearance. I bought some slim hex keys off amazon and those weren't narrow enough either. I haven't torn anything apart really, just some adjustments because I'm hoping tearing it down isn't necessary and I don't really yet have the skill set to do that confidently
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Aug 25, 2021 20:58
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Have you straightened the rotor out at the point where it's ringing?
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Aug 26, 2021 02:19
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kimbo305 posted:Have you straightened the rotor out at the point where it's ringing? I can’t tell where that is because it only makes the noise when I’m going really fast on it. It doesn’t make the noise when I hold the rear wheel up by the seat and apply the throttle, only when I’m on it. I’m not certain I would feel comfortable trying to true it either.
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Aug 26, 2021 03:16
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I can’t tell where that is because it only makes the noise when I’m going really fast on it. It doesn’t make the noise when I hold the rear wheel up by the seat and apply the throttle, only when I’m on it. I’m not certain I would feel comfortable trying to true it either. Does that math work out that the centrifugal* force at speed plus your weight on the bike could deflect the spokes enough to warp the wheel and then cause rubbing? Maybe the wheel just needs a good truing/spoke tightening? *Fight me
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Aug 26, 2021 14:58
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If I had money I would bet money that it’s the same problem as I had. Kickstand set up for narrower tyres, and it’s causing what the gently caress noises when it rubs the tyre.
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Aug 26, 2021 15:02
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Are folding e-bikes at the point where they're worth buying now, or would it be better to wait a year? I've been doing some back of the envelope math and if I double my commute from 5 to 10km, I can save enough money on rent that a £3000 bike would pay for itself in less than a year. And if I get a folding bike, I can either take it with me or store it securely near the station when I leave town, instead of locking it up outside. Commute is a mix of bike paths, roads with bike lanes, and some high traffic roads with no marked bike lanes.
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Aug 31, 2021 14:50
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How long is your commute and what's your planned speed on the folding ebike? If your commute hoover around 15-20mph, you can do it with a 20" folding ebike no problem. Slower speed you can look at the Brompton. If you commute on fast and empty park bike trails, get a non folding bike. If your commute is less than 10 miles and compactness is really important to you, get an eScooter. stephenthinkpad fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 15:16
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stephenthinkpad posted:If your commute hoover around 15-20mph, you can do it with a 20" folding ebike no problem. Brompton has a motor option, too.
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Aug 31, 2021 16:15
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kimbo305 posted:Brompton has a motor option, too. I know, I was talking about the FWD brompton. Basically if you ride slow (around 15 mph) and the road is not too bumpy, and you really really need a compact and light solution, your are looking at either getting a fancy $3000 electric Brompton, which is the luxury option, or a $500-800 mid range electric scooter, which is more compact and lighter than a brompton. But a scooter is not fun, its just an A-to-B tool. You can't take it out in the weekend. And its not cool looking. I wouldn't recommend any 3"x20" fat tire folders, all of them are heavy.
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Aug 31, 2021 16:24
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stephenthinkpad posted:How long is your commute and what's your planned speed on the folding ebike? Current commute is 5km which I do on a Gazelle Esprit (aluminum dutch bike w/ an IGH). My new route is unknown, but would be at least 10km, on a mix of poorly maintained cycle paths and some city streets. Folding is necessary because there's no secure bike parking at the train station. I wouldn't be able to take a normal bike on at peak hours, and if it's locked up for longer than a day insurance won't cover it when it gets stolen. Electric scooters are illegal in the UK, and e-bikes are limited to 15.5mph. I'm not opposed to de-restricting it...
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Aug 31, 2021 17:36
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Oh， you are doing multi-mode. I guess a Brompton is ideal for 10km-ish. Also check out the possibility of putting a scooter in a tennis bag. Is electric skateboard or EUC legal over there?
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Aug 31, 2021 17:45
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In the U.K. it’s the Brompton electric as your only viable option for folding and commuting - it’s the only one that can be put in it’s official bag and legally taken on bus/train/tram as hand luggage. There are other folding options but they tend to be used for camper vans.
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Aug 31, 2021 17:45
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Radrunner plus and child seat getting delivered today! Excited to not have to walk an hour to pick up my kid from school anymore. I wish the Radwagon was in stock but I didn't want to wait a month so this is a good compromise for now. Hopefully the kiddo is comfortable with it so I don't have to pull her trailer with it. Still not sure how comfortable I'll be taking it on main roads, but this is a good suburb starter. Is a side mirror a necessity?
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 15:14
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PageMaster posted:Is a side mirror a necessity? No, but get one if you think it'll help. In many cases, situational awareness and knowing when to look around and being able to steer straight while doing so is going to cover you. But a quiet car could sneak up on you until it's really close.
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Sep 1, 2021 15:23
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kimbo305 posted:No, but get one if you think it'll help. In many cases, situational awareness and knowing when to look around and being able to steer straight while doing so is going to cover you. Yeah if I turn my head I always end up crooked. Also since I replaced the tires on my car I seem to sneak up on people a lot.
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Sep 1, 2021 16:52
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Charles posted:Yeah if I turn my head I always end up crooked. I dunno if this would help or apply to you, but try not putting your chin past your shoulder but instead tucking it up and in front of the shoulder. I find this tenses the shoulder muscles less and thus causes less unintentional steering.
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Sep 1, 2021 17:10
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The hex bolt holding my left crank on keeps loosening itself as I ride, my manufacturer's support line sent me an amazon link to this brand to replace it. I live out of the US and importing adds another 20 bucks or so to the price, not to mention all the fuckery holding up international shipping at the moment... I can see from the search string they left in the url that they just looked up "bafang crank bolt" and whipped that at me (lol), is there anything really special about these bolts that wouldn't be satisfied by, for instance, this brand over here, which happen to be available to me in-country?
Epoxy Bulletin fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 13:59
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Epoxy Bulletin posted:The hex bolt holding my left crank on keeps loosening itself as I ride, e: to answer your question those bolts are functionally the same. Any bike shops should have some floating around for cheap/free.
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Sep 2, 2021 18:20
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CopperHound posted:Is the crank arm itself loosening? If so, it is ruined and also needs to be replaced. I'm not sure how to tell the difference. I am regularly re-tightening the bolt - every time I feel a little wobble in the crank as I pedal, and stop to fix it, the bolt has loosened to the point that there is no resistance to turning until I tighten it down again.
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Sep 2, 2021 22:26
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Yep, your crank arm is hosed. As soon as it starts coming loose like that it will never stay tight because the square taper interface is knackered. Most common cause is it just not being tight enough in the first place. If you get a replacement note: -left vs right -length (usually stamped inside 165, 170, or 175) -orientation of the square hole. Some are 45° off of what you need. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Sep 2, 2021 |
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Sep 2, 2021 23:19
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That's kind of what I suspected. Even asked Biktrix support if the loose bolt could be from other issues, they assure me just replace the bolt and all will be well, but the exchange didn't give me a lot of confidence. I'm not sure what I would need to look for, but if I slide off the crank arm and take a look, will I be able to spot the wear causing the problem, just to confirm the issue?
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Sep 3, 2021 02:22
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First. Take the bolt out. Ideally you'll see something like this: Note that the spindle is recessed into the square hole a little. This is a press fit interface that ideally should be able to stay on without the bolt even there. If you have already tightened the crank several times you might see something like this. Note that no matter how much you tighten the bolt it will not push the crank further in:  Now if you can pull the crank arm off with your hand (which alone should be enough of a sign that it is hosed because that would be a loose fit not a press fit) take a look inside the crank hole. If the flat edges aren't flat or you see an edge going across the flat section, it is ruined. Here is an example of a bad one. 
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Sep 3, 2021 04:36
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Thanks for the clear pictures, that last one with the rounded corners is pretty much exactly what I see. Replacement on the way!
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Sep 5, 2021 22:15
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Note that the rounded corners isn't a problem -- that's part of the shape. It's that the outer edge of the spindle has cut into the flat face: 
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Sep 5, 2021 22:28
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Radrunner plus received and put together! Got the front basket and the yep child seat, and still need to get a clamp so I can move my light into my handle bar and I'll be done. I don't think this is ebike specific, but my only issue so far is my rear brake lever is really sluggish, almost like it's in too much tension. Squeezing it takes a lot of force and it doesn't smoothly snap back after release. How do I go about adjusting this? Edit: better way to describe it: I can engage my front brake with one finger, but need all 4 for the rear brake lever. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 19:01
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PageMaster posted:Radrunner plus received and put together! Got the front basket and the yep child seat, and still need to get a clamp so I can move my light into my handle bar and I'll be done. I don't think this is ebike specific, but my only issue so far is my rear brake lever is really sluggish, almost like it's in too much tension. Squeezing it takes a lot of force and it doesn't smoothly snap back after release. How do I go about adjusting this? Is the brake cable ok? I had an issue like that and it turns out the cable was fraying and getting stuck in the sheath.
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Sep 6, 2021 19:26
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SamsCola posted:Is the brake cable ok? I had an issue like that and it turns out the cable was fraying and getting stuck in the sheath. I hope it is. Everything exposed looks fine but if it's inside the sheath that might be outside my ability to check. I might have to get to a bike shop to check.
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Sep 6, 2021 19:38
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