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Better suited for the PC building thread, but: You can spend a very small amount (10 quid) more to get an ASRock B550 motherboard or about 50 quid more to get a very good Gigabyte B550 Aorus. The B550 is preferred chipset in current gen for a variety of reasons. You should get 3600 CL16 RAM. That RAM is slow and bad. A 450W PSU isn't going to drive any decent video card in the future with any headroom, a Corsair SF600 will certainly cover any need though. SSD is overkill, the Samsung stuff is overpriced. A WD SN550 1TB will save you money and deliver just as good performance.
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Aug 25, 2021 20:19
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Za0kx7hBeHc Lo-fi SFF Step-by-Step to Relax/Study to
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Aug 30, 2021 17:39
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Ok after all the advice from Kyoon Griffey and the PC building thread, here's babby's first foray into SFF: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (£243.78 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: ASRock B550M-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard (£118.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (£62.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£69.98 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2 GB TWIN FROZR Video Card Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200 Mini ITX Desktop Case (£77.51 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack (£28.07 @ More Computers) Couple of notes 1. The ATX PSU is a salvage from my existing mid-tower. It's old but hasn't really been used and it can fit into the NR200 with a bunch of cable ties. 2. Same thing with the GTX760 3. Planning to intake from the bottom and exhaust up top with a mixture of the supplied case fans and some cheap Arctic ones. Some final thoughts 1. Wondering if I should get a CPU cooler now or should I just see how I do with the stock one first before making any more purchases. The 5-pack of fans is dirt cheap so I don't mind setting them up first. Any comments?
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Aug 30, 2021 21:32
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Note that I know nothing about cooling, seeing as how I'm living that open case life, but figured the rest of this thread would have some opinions about cooling a NR200. The Arctic fans are a placeholder in case smarter people think Z needs more fans.
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Aug 30, 2021 21:35
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where's the glamour shots of your finished loop warmachine, don't think we've forgotten 
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Aug 30, 2021 21:51
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Z the IVth posted:Ok after all the advice from Kyoon Griffey and the PC building thread, here's babby's first foray into SFF: Scythe Fuma 2 is the gold standard for air cooling in the NR200. Full size PSU will make building a tad more annoying but probably not enough to buy a new one if you have it on hand.
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Aug 30, 2021 22:13
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Yeah, I have a very similar setup in my NR200, a 5600X with Fuma 2 and a (Gigabyte OC 3X) 2070 Super, and my temps are way better than I expected: both 60-65C under heavy load, only a few degrees above ambient at idle. I didn't even buy any other fans, I just have the Fuma 2 running exhaust out the back and the one included 120mm fan as top front exhaust. The GPU pulls new air in from the bottom of the case and the CPU clearly gets enough from the mesh side panel. I keep thinking "oh I should get some fans" as an excuse to do more tinkering but then realizing it's really not worth it given these temps and the fact that it's almost always silent.
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Aug 30, 2021 22:42
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Sphyre posted:where's the glamour shots of your finished loop warmachine, don't think we've forgotten fk When I'm not playing video games, I'll try and snap some tonight.
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Aug 31, 2021 00:45
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So, the thing I didn't finish is actually rewiring the Noctua fans. I reached out to Noctua to see if there was a way to disassemble the fan and access the PCB without destroying the fan, and the answer is no. So I'm putting the internal rewiring off until December when I do maintenance on it. I also think I might remove the front panel ports at that time in favor of a hub. The only reason I really use the front panel is for the USB-C, which connects to the Dell brick work gave me for the laptop and works as a bootleg USB hub--it's just easier to switch the connection between the laptop and the desktop from the front. I'd much rather replace this with a KVM switch, but that introduces the issue of needing a switch that can support 1) 3 display ports from the desktop, 2) 1 MST display port from the laptop, and 3) 3 displayport monitor outputs at 1440@144. The laptop is the biggest problem--well, that and the price of a KVM that supports 3 1440@144 monitors. But that's a problem for another day. This thing is very, VERY cramped. Fortunately, the EK block is overengineered and the system works fine despite the restricted airflow on the second radiator. The wear on the fittings is due to me having a hard time working with them until I figured out that a bit of silicone grease on the tube made it slide right on without causing damage to the rubber.   From the top, you get about an inch between the PSU and the radiator fans, much of which is taken up by hoses. The meme armor heat sink for the VRM does not help anything, and made getting the GPU to fit a chore. Also, while I know they want "hand tight" on the bolts, EK should just send slotted bolts because getting my fat sausage fingers in there without disassembling the VRM/M.2 assembly is impossible.   The whole thing works because of the legendary IceMan Ncase M1 pump/res combo. I've set up mine with a DDC pump from EK. I tell myself I'll get an actual drain valve, but practical work has taught me that the byzantine tube layout means there's no way to easily drain the thing, so I may as well just do it the hard way each time. I did finish rewiring this to run off a single PWM header though. Looks way nicer than the ketchup and mustard it had by default or my haphazard paracord-heatshrink sleeving. Also it's much easier to run a single lead to a single header rather than having to deal with a separate 4-pin molex. And I'm lazy and haven't topped it up. Yes, I know.   You can easily see why I want to take out the front panel as well when I do the fans in December. The USB connections are an absolute chore to route, and make a very severe bend against the bottom radiator. You can do it, but I don't recommend it. Plus, it's irritating to try and wire the fan controller with these thick, inflexible noctua cables at weird lengths requiring Y-splitters to... yeah. It's not obnoxious enough to make me want to disassemble everything right now for the sake of splicing fan wires, but almost.   I use the Aquacomputer Octo, which gives me more than enough to manage the fans and the coolant temperature sensor. Each header on the Octo is rated for up to 2A of current, which is well within the DDC's theoretical power consumption. Just don't plug it into a 1A motherboard header. And yes, I command-stripped it to the inside of the front panel. There wasn't a way to use the mounting screws to secure it inside and leave space for the wires. The controller is set to keep the coolant at 45C and adjust fan and pump speeds to maintain this. I'll probably put a cap on pump speed once the summer ends and I'm not surrounded by loud air conditioners and fans, but the temperature target keeps the GPU and CPU between 50C and 65C during pretty much all of my normal use cases. Notably the infamously hot GDDR6X memory on the 3080 FE is kept at around the same temperature as the core. When you consider the giant block of copper that EK's waterblock is, that's not a surprise, but given how substandard most board partner memory cooling solutions seemed to be, (and the god-awful Bykski block I tested) it's a nice change of pace. edit: Digging back through my photos, I found this one that shows the original layout of the tubes. I actually altered this significantly insofar as the order of the connections to the lower radiator, but the concept is pretty much the same.  I also have the delidding and installation of some of the custom cables.     Here's one with the Bykski block installed. It has better clearance of the fans, but piss-poor cooling performance.  Vs. the EK, which is an ultra-tight fit, but more effectively moves heat off the card.  A better look at where I mounted the Octo  edit 2: Also, I could have sworn I had a shot of the liquid metal application on the GPU, but I guess you'll have to be satisfied with a flex shot of the disassembled 3080FE 
Warmachine fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 18:53
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So Cooler master announced the NR200P max. Which has a built in 280mm AIO. It's kinda cool but I imagine will cost a tonne.
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Sep 1, 2021 22:11
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CyberPingu posted:So Cooler master announced the NR200P max. Literally any number south of 400 dollars will qualify as “pretty drat good”; it includes the 280 mm AIO (let’s ballpark that as ~125 dollars of value against itx friendly competitors), and an 800 watt gold rated SFX PSU, (~180 of value right there) and the case it self is still ~100 bucks. So, as a bundle, seems like a pretty great replacement for the NZXT Fire Box in the “just buy this kit and byo mobo/cpu/GPU and good to go baby’s first SFF” category.
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Sep 1, 2021 23:12
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Not only does it come with a 280mm AIO, but also an 850W SFX power supply. Pretty good package if you're looking for both.
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Sep 1, 2021 23:53
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IMO makes sense to have a SFF with pre-packaged cooling and power. Getting these as a carefree surefire package removes a lot of the hassle associated with the form factor. Only hope the components are good enough, but cooler master certainly has the capability. Only downside is you won't be recycling te most reusable parts of your old computer. I guess that narrows the target demographic a bit. On the other hand it might also appeal to people who otherwise wouldn't have built a SFF in the first place. I hope it turns out well for them. I like the idea of buying a well thought out kit.
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Sep 2, 2021 01:08
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Seems like the case is beginning to circulate among the tech Youtubers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MRhehneqd0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GX07rRjvtFk And the price is $349 USD so this does indeed seem like a banger of a deal
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Sep 2, 2021 01:09
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Cross-Section posted:Seems like the case is beginning to circulate among the tech Youtubers yeah, at 349 that is a loving steal.
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Sep 2, 2021 01:17
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that's pretty sick. I wish the regular NR200 supported a top mounted rad without modifications.
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Sep 2, 2021 01:53
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Holy poo poo yeah $350 is a great price. CMs aios are really good. Not sure about their PSUs. Hnnnggg I don't need it I tell myself....I don't need it....
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Sep 2, 2021 08:03
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I was gonna use an O11 Mini for my next build, but this is tempting. I don't love the vertical GPU, but I bet a negative pressure setup with two additional fans exhausting on the bottom would help it a lot. (Slim fans only on the bottom, according to the specs.)
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Sep 2, 2021 08:37
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Well gently caress me, I just bought an NR200 and psu within the past few months and was looking into AIO cpu coolers to drop in. This would have been an insta-buy for me.
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Sep 2, 2021 14:25
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Enos Cabell posted:Well gently caress me, I just bought an NR200 and psu within the past few months and was looking into AIO cpu coolers to drop in. This would have been an insta-buy for me. I'm sitting here looking at a recently completed NR200 build, but unlike the Max version it's a positive air pressure build. Slim fans on the bottom blowing on the GPU, side-mount AIO with fans set to pull, and then a single top exhaust because I forgot the PSU cable would be in the way. I'm 50/50 on whether I would've gone with the updated case at this point, it seems just a touch more limiting.
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Sep 2, 2021 15:19
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I hope they will sell the same case without the AIO because it would be ideal to put a custom loop in.
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Sep 2, 2021 16:14
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my meshlicious and the sf600 platinum that everyone here recommended just arrived. i have it all now and probably on saturday going to do the build. gotta say the sf600 cables do look pretty nice, and it's somehow a lot smaller than i expected once i see the power supply in person
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Sep 2, 2021 16:15
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https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/hyte-revolt-3-review This case has been generating a lot of buzz lately. Case alone is only $130, with a 700W SFX-L power supply it’s $250.
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Sep 2, 2021 18:42
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Regarding the NR200p - apparently you can fit the colourful panels of the NR200 to it. Would be pretty neat if you could get these for the NR200p as well.
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Sep 2, 2021 20:08
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Yeah, the Gear Seekers review pointed out that the only real difference is the top rails, the back panel, and how the motherboard tray is attached. The front/side/top (and bottom) panels on the nr200, nr200p, and nr200 max are identical. Having those top rails on the non max would've saved me a bit of effort solving some vibration I was getting with the top mesh at certain fan speeds -_-
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Sep 3, 2021 01:18
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I'm actually kind of bummed that they're not including a third PCI cable with the PSU, though. Really don't want to have to order custom cables lol I suppose daisy-chaining is still out of the question, especially on a GPU as power-hungry as a 3080 Ti?
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Sep 3, 2021 01:49
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ephphatha posted:Yeah, the Gear Seekers review pointed out that the only real difference is the top rails, the back panel, and how the motherboard tray is attached. The front/side/top (and bottom) panels on the nr200, nr200p, and nr200 max are identical. Having those top rails on the non max would've saved me a bit of effort solving some vibration I was getting with the top mesh at certain fan speeds -_- Are you using Arctic P12s in the top? I noticed the rattling stopped once I switched those out and put NFA12s in
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Sep 3, 2021 07:30
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I was using the coolermaster fans that came with the NR200p. The problem I had was the mesh wasn't secured properly to the plastic frame (the little tabs around the side were loose) so even with the rubber grommets vibration from the fans caused the mesh to rattle against the plastic. I straightened out then folded the tabs down tighter to fix it, though not having the fans mounted directly to the top plastic piece would've worked from the get go.
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Sep 3, 2021 09:09
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Is there a way to bodge the AIO radiator onto a GPU block? It seems much more valuable to use the more elaborate cooling tech on the 300W component than the 95W one.
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Sep 3, 2021 10:30
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knox_harrington posted:Is there a way to bodge the AIO radiator onto a GPU block? It seems much more valuable to use the more elaborate cooling tech on the 300W component than the 95W one. Possibly but you will have height clearance issues then with any cpu cooler you want to put in
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Sep 3, 2021 12:47
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knox_harrington posted:Is there a way to bodge the AIO radiator onto a GPU block? It seems much more valuable to use the more elaborate cooling tech on the 300W component than the 95W one. This is honestly something that has puzzled me since I started moving into liquid cooling in general: why spend all this effort to water cool the lower of the two high-power components in the system? I know the answer is "CPU easy" but my experience with this custom loop is that GPUs aren't exactly difficult either.
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Sep 3, 2021 13:23
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This is why I wondered if they'd sell the case without the AIO, because I'd want both CPU and GPU in the loop.
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Sep 3, 2021 13:42
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I'm not sure putting both a GPU and a CPU in a loop with just 240mm of radiator space is a good idea, and I don't know how you'd fit in an additional radiator.
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Sep 3, 2021 14:24
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Warmachine posted:This is honestly something that has puzzled me since I started moving into liquid cooling in general: why spend all this effort to water cool the lower of the two high-power components in the system? Your custom loop is quite difficult, and costly. The block has to be machined for each board layout so you can't make a single Intel or AMD design. Even between different aib designs of the same card you might need a different block. That's why the block alone is 100+ dollars. Because graphics cards have components besides the GPU itself that require active cooling (vram, vrm) just slapping an aio coldplate on the GPU comes with some problems although obviously it's an approach that can work (see the kraken g12) but even disassembling a GPU stock assembly is something a lot of people find daunting. Compared to "tighten some screws over the CPU and you're done" it's a lot more involved.
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Sep 3, 2021 16:49
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Oh also I believe GPUs are mostly all bare die since they ship with cooling in place so probably a higher chance of breaking something if you torque unevenly or too much.
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Sep 3, 2021 16:54
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I can't speak for OP, but I was interpreting that post to mean that it's funny that off-the-shelf cooler tech is so advanced for CPUs and relatively unavailable for GPUs, despite the fact that GPUs are now more expensive and put out more heat. Like, wouldn't it be nice if they had standardized board layouts or something so instead of buying whatever Strix or FTW you just bought like a bare 3080 board and then your own aftermarket cooler, like you do for CPUs? That's a thought I've had, anyway, even though that is completely not how the market currently works, obviously.
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Sep 3, 2021 16:58
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I'm not sure putting both a GPU and a CPU in a loop with just 240mm of radiator space is a good idea, and I don't know how you'd fit in an additional radiator.
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Sep 3, 2021 17:10
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Scythe posted:I can't speak for OP, but I was interpreting that post to mean that it's funny that off-the-shelf cooler tech is so advanced for CPUs and relatively unavailable for GPUs, despite the fact that GPUs are now more expensive and put out more heat. Like, wouldn't it be nice if they had standardized board layouts or something so instead of buying whatever Strix or FTW you just bought like a bare 3080 board and then your own aftermarket cooler, like you do for CPUs? That's a thought I've had, anyway, even though that is completely not how the market currently works, obviously. Even if you could get board partners to standardize layouts (which they're not going to like since now they have to worry about z height on power delivery matching a spec possibly restricting component selection and driving up cost) you still need to make a sku for every model (3090 has ram on the back, different power configurations for 3070 etc) and if things change it's probably a whole new design for the next generation. Compare that to CPUs where you make a single CPU, include AMD and Intel mounting hardware and you're basically good until someone changes mounting holes. It's not a technically insurmountable problem but it's easy to see why things are the way they are when you look at logistics and costs.
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Sep 3, 2021 17:37
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Warmachine posted:This is honestly something that has puzzled me since I started moving into liquid cooling in general: why spend all this effort to water cool the lower of the two high-power components in the system? GPU dies tend to be much larger so heat transfer is not nearly as much of an issue. There's GPU AIO brackets out there, with Kraken G12 being the most popular one, but a decent air cooler is good enough for the most part so not too many people bother.
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Sep 3, 2021 22:10
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| # ? May 24, 2024 02:24 |
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Warmachine posted:pics  fart simpson posted:my meshlicious and the sf600 platinum that everyone here recommended just arrived. i have it all now and probably on saturday going to do the build. gotta say the sf600 cables do look pretty nice, and it's somehow a lot smaller than i expected once i see the power supply in person
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Sep 3, 2021 22:28
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