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Both pieces of that need replacing, the "good" piece is pulling up at the other side. T-trim its called? Im guessing YouTube shows how to replace it? Thanks goons!
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Sep 4, 2021 18:40
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D34THROW posted:Both pieces of that need replacing, the "good" piece is pulling up at the other side. T-trim its called? Im guessing YouTube shows how to replace it? Thanks goons! Yeah, it's pretty simple. I just replaced some in my house last month. It usually comes with a metal channel that gets screwed into the sub floor and you push the t-molding into that to hold it in place but you can also just glue to all down too, it's up to you.
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Sep 4, 2021 19:04
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Rakeris posted:For some reason I am having a hard time visualizing what you need, but I think you have two walls on the sides of the door you would want to mount rods to, would something like this work? Yeah something like that, I guess "inside mount" was the term I was looking for. Also tension rods are an option but getting a tension rod to fit a 107" gap seems like a terrible idea
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Sep 4, 2021 19:51
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Got a DSLR camera lens which seems busted; the bit that turns to adjust focus / magnification won't turn (feels jammed) and uh, also this piece is rattling around inside.  How broken is this? Could I open up the lens and try to reseat it? More pictures needed? Please advise.
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Sep 4, 2021 20:55
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Wrr posted:Got a DSLR camera lens which seems busted; the bit that turns to adjust focus / magnification won't turn (feels jammed) and uh, also this piece is rattling around inside. Try the DIY camera gear repair megathread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3868955
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Sep 4, 2021 21:05
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Otherwise depending on the value you can send it to the manufacturer for repair. Obviously not relevant for a $100 lens, but for the $1000+ ones it's worth it in my opinion.
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Sep 4, 2021 21:36
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My house was in the path of Hurricane Ida's remnants in the Northeast US. We dodged the really bad stuff but today I noticed a little part of our ground-floor ceiling where I can only imagine some water leaked in; the paint and wood behind it are sagging and it feels damp to the touch as if water pooled in the crawlspace behind it. Obviously I need to get a roofer in here to ID and fix the leak on the roof, but would a roofer also be the correct contractor to look at this dampened part of the ceiling and fix it, or is that a job for a different type of contractor?
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Sep 5, 2021 04:25
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C-Euro posted:My house was in the path of Hurricane Ida's remnants in the Northeast US. We dodged the really bad stuff but today I noticed a little part of our ground-floor ceiling where I can only imagine some water leaked in; the paint and wood behind it are sagging and it feels damp to the touch as if water pooled in the crawlspace behind it. Obviously I need to get a roofer in here to ID and fix the leak on the roof, but would a roofer also be the correct contractor to look at this dampened part of the ceiling and fix it, or is that a job for a different type of contractor? A roofer might also do ceiling drywall but I sorta doubt it. Any general home contractor/handyman should be able to handle ripping out the wet drywall and any insulation, drying out the space, and then replacing and repainting. If you have decent homeowners insurance with a low-ish deductible you may find it's worth it to claim the damages. There's a slight chance the wood behind the drywall is wet beyond repair but if it's really just water from this recent storm it can probably be dried out just fine.
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Sep 5, 2021 06:01
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I wouldn't make a homeowners claim prior to opening up the drywall, which you should do ASAP. Unless you're looking at $10k+ in damages you're probably better eating this one. The faster you get the water out the less it's going to cost you. If you don't have small kids running around just put on a dust mask and safety goggles and go to town. You say "wood is sagging" - do you mean drywall? That's awfully quick to have wood sag. If it's drywall or plaster cut it out with a 1" border of dry all the way around. Pull out any insulation in there, and set fans on it.
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Sep 5, 2021 06:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t really understand what you’re trying to do, but why do you want to use a sheet good instead of just like, treated 2x or 1x boards? Probably cheaper and definitely easier to handle than heavy af treated plywood. Probably a lot more exactly how you think:  The problem is the wood is 3 1/4 x 3/4 which is 1/4" shorter than pretty much every thing else, so it never fits properly. I have wood that is the right width, but it's thicker (like 5/8), and stuff that is too narrow but the right thickness.
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Sep 5, 2021 18:07
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I need to replace a board on the deck of the house I just bought before we pressure wash and stain it. Here’s a poor out-of-focus pic: Is there a typical size of board for such decking? Also, what kind of hardware is used to attach it to the joist? It has a square drive on the screw but I’m not sure what type I should be looking for.
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Sep 5, 2021 22:55
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The Midniter posted:I need to replace a board on the deck of the house I just bought before we pressure wash and stain it. Here’s a poor out-of-focus pic: I see lots of decks built with 2*4 pressure treated lumber. That sizing is nominal so if you have a tape measure (buy one) it would be like 1.5" x 3.5" roughly, and then just measure the length to see how long a board you need to replace. If you measure up a different size, then buy that or post here again for help. If you don't own a saw of some sort you can probably have the Lowes/home depot place cut your lumber to size if needed. Square drive is I think, Robertson? Any drill bit set should be able to handle taking those screws out so you can put a new board in. Just buy like 3" exterior rated screws with torx drive or Robertson doesn't really matter just no Phillips head trash.
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Sep 5, 2021 23:18
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The Midniter posted:I need to replace a board on the deck of the house I just bought before we pressure wash and stain it. Here’s a poor out-of-focus pic: If you go to the fastener section look around and you will eventually find giant boxes of "Deck Screws" - use those. Literally. Don't buy the giant box of em, but you should be looking in sections with sufficient bulk for like a 12x6x6ish box of screws to be there. Ours are on the floor at the far end of the aisle from the rest of the like 50packs.
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Sep 5, 2021 23:25
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The Midniter posted:I need to replace a board on the deck of the house I just bought before we pressure wash and stain it. Here’s a poor out-of-focus pic: If it's thinner than 2x, it's probably 1.25" x 6", aka five-quarter deck board. Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 00:48
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H110Hawk posted:I wouldn't make a homeowners claim prior to opening up the drywall, which you should do ASAP. Unless you're looking at $10k+ in damages you're probably better eating this one. The faster you get the water out the less it's going to cost you. If you don't have small kids running around just put on a dust mask and safety goggles and go to town. You say "wood is sagging" - do you mean drywall? That's awfully quick to have wood sag. If it's drywall or plaster cut it out with a 1" border of dry all the way around. Pull out any insulation in there, and set fans on it. Tearing a hole in my ceiling, to own the libs-  Starting off by taking out anything that I can easily break off by hand, but eventually I want to cut out and replace any drywall that's sagging even if it's dried out right?
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Sep 6, 2021 19:19
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I would put a fresh razor blade on your razor and score out a nice square section stud-to-stud including anything that shows damage. Then hopefully it snaps at your scores. Once you're doing drywall beyond a small patch kit your next cost interval is the second sheet. If as pictured is most of the interior damage you're seriously looking at a few hundred dollars. I think our local place prepandemic charged $350 for the trip including the first sheet and basic texture. That's excluding where the water got IN but yeah. This is cheap and easy. I would suggest owning the libs another 6-12" and pull out the insulation a bit. Nothing looks super awful in the picture though. Wear long sleeves and gloves in addition to the mask and goggles.
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Sep 6, 2021 19:48
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H110Hawk posted:I would put a fresh razor blade on your razor and score out a nice square section stud-to-stud including anything that shows damage. Then hopefully it snaps at your scores. Once you're doing drywall beyond a small patch kit your next cost interval is the second sheet. If as pictured is most of the interior damage you're seriously looking at a few hundred dollars. I think our local place prepandemic charged $350 for the trip including the first sheet and basic texture. The help is much appreciated, we bought this place in April and it's my first house so this is the first time I've intentionally destroyed my own living space  Here's a wider-angle shot of what I'm working with- I would say that it feels damp or cool to the touch up to where that lamp is, so the plan is to cut as close to that as I can get without running into the wiring for it. At least I'm finally using the headlamp my parents bought me for Christmas years ago!
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Sep 6, 2021 20:22
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You're on the right track and you seriously just saved yourself thousands of dollars in having servpro come out and do the same thing. From across the internet that drywall looks in decent shape, which means that you're close to being done cutting. It also means somewhere someone painted that really well for it to not show staining through the paint. Next up - where did it get IN? Head into your attic with your headlamp AND a flashlight (a real one, not your phone) and start looking around. Remember capillary effect means the water could start anywhere and run in beads along a piece of wood or wire to where it finally settled on your ceiling. Start with straight above the damage and fan out, going "up" in elevation, paying special attention to any roof penetrations (vents, chimney, whatever) and corners/eaves. You should go buy some 3mil-ish plastic (if it can be found) in the 10x100' roll. Every homeowner should have some. Staple it up then use masking tape to seal it off from your attic once everything is dry. They're super dusty and your conditioned air is escaping. This is helping you in the immediate term but it could be weeks before you can get someone out to fix this properly. If you were in Ida's path then the contractors are up to their eyeballs dealing with bigger jobs. Always happy to imply someone else should destroy their house for my amusement. 
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Sep 6, 2021 21:12
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We're in an east coast rowhome so no attic here  This part of the ceiling is in a small addition on the side of the house though so I suspect that the roof problem is localized to that part of the house, but I've been meaning to have a roofer come by anyway so we'll see what they say. In the meantime I guess I'll tape some trash bags up overnight and then get that clear wrap you suggested. Luckily we're going to have good weather for a while, no rain anytime soon and it won't be hot enough for the AC. Until then, it's just me and my hole
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Sep 7, 2021 02:30
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C-Euro posted:We're in an east coast rowhome so no attic here Nice hole.  First it need to dry, then you seal it off and wait. Also trash bags are fine, if you get it sealed up then don't rip it down. Plastic sheets are just way easier to use. I can't believe convinced someone on the internet to bash a hole in their ceiling. 
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Sep 7, 2021 03:49
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H110Hawk posted:I can't believe convinced someone on the internet to bash a hole in their ceiling. It’s the power of the star. Use it wisely, young padawan.
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Sep 7, 2021 06:25
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H110Hawk posted:Nice hole.
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Sep 7, 2021 11:13
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Does anyone offer adjustable shelf brackets (like the kind that slot into a vertical rail) for wooden shelves with a mount for a closet rod?
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Sep 7, 2021 15:07
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H110Hawk posted:I can't believe convinced someone on the internet to bash a hole in their ceiling. I mean I figured it was going to have to come out anyway, and if I'm going to be a homeowner I might as well learn how to do a few things like this. You just told me how to bash a hole in my ceiling responsibly Plus my wife both is pregnant and has some bad allergies so I'm not taking any chances with mold and the like
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Sep 8, 2021 03:13
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I'm pleased to announce that after so many years of dumb questions, plumbing emergencies, dangerous electrical wiring (never figured out why residential split phase would have 100V from phase 1 ground to phase 2 ground), and learning to replace a furnace on my own, tomorrow is the official closing and it will be sold as-is for teardown. We got market value.
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Sep 8, 2021 09:04
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Hi all hopefully this thread is appropriate I have a dryer I want to plug in at work. We have a 30 amp 250V receptacle for an Instapak machine I was planning to use. Unfortunately I did not notice the plug pattern was different before I brought the dryer here and repaired it. Currently I have a 3 wire 10-30 cord on the dryer and the receptacle is a L6-30. I couldn't find any adapters (in stock anyways) and figured perhaps I should just replace the receptacle. I just don't know if its possible to wire and its been a struggle to find out in Google. Does anybody know if Im out of luck?
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Sep 9, 2021 16:27
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GWBBQ posted:I'm pleased to announce that after so many years of dumb questions, plumbing emergencies, dangerous electrical wiring (never figured out why residential split phase would have 100V from phase 1 ground to phase 2 ground), and learning to replace a furnace on my own, tomorrow is the official closing and it will be sold as-is for teardown. We got market value. Congratulations. Seriously, congratulations on getting that whole damned thing closed off.
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Sep 9, 2021 16:41
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1gnoirents posted:Hi all hopefully this thread is appropriate HAVE WE GOT A THREAD FOR YOU! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739 Post make/model of the dryer and any pictures you have, specifically the lugs on the dryer for the cord and your outlet. L6-30 should be adaptable to a dryer safely. Edit: Hrm, L6 is 208v isn't it? Anyways actual electricians post there. I'm just a computer toucher whose friends are horrified when I do DIY projects.
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Sep 9, 2021 17:05
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Disregard, I didn't realize 10-30 is L/L/N, not L/L/G. Don't do this. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 9, 2021 17:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:L6-30 and 10-30 should be considered effectively identical here since in both cases you have two hots providing somewhere between 208V and 250V, and a ground, without a neutral, on a 30A breaker. I'd just cut the 10-30P off the dryer cord and replace it with a L6-30P instead of loving with adapters. Woah woah woah the wiring thread is dryer chat. We've only killed three people to date!
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Sep 9, 2021 17:26
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H110Hawk posted:Woah woah woah the wiring thread is dryer chat. We've only killed three people to date! You can't kill that which is already dead inside!
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Sep 9, 2021 17:47
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Ida tried to take out my ~3 year old maple. It's leaning a bit and but wasn't fully uprooted. Is there something I can do to push or train this thing back straight a bit or should I reach out to a tree company to see if they can provide a solution?
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Sep 9, 2021 20:48
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I've got a gas dryer that I can't figure out. Usually but not always, it will run forever on the auto dry cycle because it never gets hot. However, once I take the front panel off and look at it, it ignites on startup just fine. All of the sensors and the fuse ring out with my multimeter. If I take the panel off, I can watch the dryer go through its paces like it's supposed to: start button gets pushed, drum spins, ignitor lights up, gas solenoids open, flame lights, it burns until the thermostat turns it off, lather, rinse, repeat. I hate intermittent problems. Do I need to catch it in the act? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 9, 2021 |
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Sep 9, 2021 23:15
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What should I be looking for in a front door that blocks lots of sound? We have really cheap double doors right now that we think we'll convert to a single door in the process unless there's some kind of magic double door that is pretty soundproof. Edit: Preferably it is a door that can be opened and closed and not just concrete block. Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 10, 2021 00:41
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kid sinister posted:I've got a gas dryer that I can't figure out. Usually but not always, it will run forever on the auto dry cycle because it never gets hot. However, once I take the front panel off and look at it, it ignites on startup just fine. All of the sensors and the fuse ring out with my multimeter. If I take the panel off, I can watch the dryer go through its paces like it's supposed to: start button gets pushed, drum spins, ignitor lights up, gas solenoids open, flame lights, it burns until the thermostat turns it off, lather, rinse, repeat. I had this issue where my dryer would start the flame initially but never re-light to maintain temperature. I tried replacing a fuse and when that didn’t work, I ordered a solenoid (can’t remember exactly what it was called) and replaced it, which fixed it right up.
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Sep 10, 2021 01:04
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couldcareless posted:Ida tried to take out my ~3 year old maple. It's leaning a bit and but wasn't fully uprooted. Is there something I can do to push or train this thing back straight a bit or should I reach out to a tree company to see if they can provide a solution? You can try driving in heavy stakes (8' 2x4s driven in at least three feet, three stakes) and wire it, but it will either live or die. Betting it'll be fine; it's under a lot of stress, and the roots opposite the dying branches are what are torn/injured. There will be more die-back; I'd photograph it once a week to follow what's dying off - part of that is the tree coping with the injury and cutting off water to certain parts to heal other parts. You'll know after four seasons if it'll make it. kid sinister posted:I've got a gas dryer that I can't figure out. Usually but not always, it will run forever on the auto dry cycle because it never gets hot. However, once I take the front panel off and look at it, it ignites on startup just fine. All of the sensors and the fuse ring out with my multimeter. If I take the panel off, I can watch the dryer go through its paces like it's supposed to: start button gets pushed, drum spins, ignitor lights up, gas solenoids open, flame lights, it burns until the thermostat turns it off, lather, rinse, repeat. Find and replace the high-limit switch and possibly the gas valve soleniod PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Sep 10, 2021 |
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Sep 10, 2021 02:13
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PainterofCrap posted:Find and replace the high-limit switch and possibly the gas valve soleniod The high limit switch tested OK with my multimeter. I'll try the solenoids first. Thanks!
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Sep 10, 2021 03:57
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Congratulations. Seriously, congratulations on getting that whole damned thing closed off. couldcareless posted:Ida tried to take out my ~3 year old maple. It's leaning a bit and but wasn't fully uprooted. Is there something I can do to push or train this thing back straight a bit or should I reach out to a tree company to see if they can provide a solution?
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Sep 10, 2021 04:14
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Yeah, that doesn’t even look that bad. In my area of SoCal we get super strong Santa Ana winds and half the trees in my neighborhood are slanted worse than that and they’ve been fine for the past ~15 they’ve been in the ground. They are more susceptible to toppling over in super water saturated ground but as long as the drainage is good you should be fine.
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Sep 10, 2021 15:47
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Well, I live in New Orleans and our water table is pretty drat high. I'd mostly like to just straighten it out. I'm gonna see if I can track down an arborist and see if they can stake it up, if anything just for aesthetic purposes.
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Sep 10, 2021 15:51
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