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StarSan dilution rate is 1oz (30 mL) per 5 gallons, so 6 mL per gallon.
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Sep 5, 2021 21:01
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thotsky posted:PBW was expensive before it was pulled from the market in Europa for a while, but since it has returned its even more so. There are other alkaline, acid based and/or oxidizing cleaners that are better value pound for pound, and have lower dosage recommendations, but it does feel like PBW is especially quick and thorough. PBW has a silicate in it to help with CIP procedures. The other oxygen based cleaners wouldn't have this as they'd make a mess of your clothes. If you don't CIP, the cheaper detergent isn't going to be a big problem as you'll be brushing it clean anyway. It does work better with hot water either way. The price difference is big here though it hasn't gone up. It's about $2.50/pound for the oxiclean and $8-10/pound for PBW. At least you can get PBW again and they figured out their registration issues. Pollyanna posted:Anything I'm missing? Just make sure to rinse your cleaner (oxiclean) off before sanitizing and your process looks great. Good luck, have fun! No idea on spice rates, but you can do the vanilla at the end and the maple syrup you can always add more to adjust, just give it time to ferment the sugar in it.
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Sep 5, 2021 21:01
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Seconding to be sure to rinse between PBW/OxyClean and StarSan - if not it'll neutralize the StarSan too fast. Also, I would strongly suggest fermenting the cider, then dosing with spices so that you can let sit until exactly done with that spice by tasting. It shouldn't take long to ferment, but too much vanilla or cinnamon is going to taste unpleasant. Seriously, I put a vanilla bean into a porter and it got really tannic really fast. That sucker sat in a keg for a long time to age out. I also made the same mistake with cardamom early on. Oof.
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Sep 5, 2021 22:00
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Sounds good, I’ll make sure to add the spices later - thanks!! I’ll get this going soon.
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Sep 5, 2021 22:33
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I would: Let your equipment sit in cleaner for 30 min, not 10. Pitch yeast directly, no need to dilute it with (hopefully boiled) water. Shake it as much as possible, no need to do so lightly (you want oxygen in there). Ferment lower if you can, your yeast should be able to handle as low as 59f.
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Sep 5, 2021 23:00
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That’s gonna be kinda hard. It’s still pretty warm, and it’s supposed to be 80 degrees tomorrow. I could keep next to my AC and continue to run it, but I’d have to figure out a way to avoid direct sunlight. Good point on the yeast.  Haven’t pitched yet, will just skip it and go straight to adding the yeast.
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Sep 5, 2021 23:08
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Pollyanna posted:That’s gonna be kinda hard. It’s still pretty warm, and it’s supposed to be 80 degrees tomorrow. I could keep next to my AC and continue to run it, but I’d have to figure out a way to avoid direct sunlight. +1 for rinse really well after oxiclean and just pitch the yeast straight. For temp and light you could make a cheap swamp cooler. Sit it in a pan with water in it, wrap it in a towel, and point a fan at it.
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Sep 5, 2021 23:44
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Eeyo posted:I read this a while back. No idea who the author is, but he sure talks a lot about yeast and thiols. http://scottjanish.com/genetically-...haracteristics/. Like I said can't say anything about the author and what his expertise is so IDK how good of a writeup it is. Speaking as someone in the industry, we use a shitload of GM yeast. Multiple strains. It’s commonplace. Sorry.
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Sep 6, 2021 00:07
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I'm trying out a beer with philly sour and it seems like it has a longer lag time than I had anticipated. I'm at about 30 hours and it's just starting to take off. I feel like for the beers I've tried earlier (S-04 and two dried saison strains) they were relatively quick. This is just extra light malt extract, moderately hopped during the boil, then dry-hopped with sorachi ace. I kept reading that sorachi ace is supposed to be lemony but tbh I only really picked up the dill aroma. I just hope it doesn't turn into dill pickle beer or something.
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Sep 7, 2021 00:43
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gamera009 posted:Speaking as someone in the industry, we use a shitload of GM yeast. Multiple strains. It’s commonplace. I'm all for GM yeast, fwiw. Is it kinds like the article described that are supposed to transform aromatic compounds? Or other modifications?
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Sep 7, 2021 00:50
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Eeyo posted:I'm trying out a beer with philly sour and it seems like it has a longer lag time than I had anticipated. I'm at about 30 hours and it's just starting to take off. I feel like for the beers I've tried earlier (S-04 and two dried saison strains) they were relatively quick. This is just extra light malt extract, moderately hopped during the boil, then dry-hopped with sorachi ace. I kept reading that sorachi ace is supposed to be lemony but tbh I only really picked up the dill aroma. I just hope it doesn't turn into dill pickle beer or something. What was your pitch rate? Everything I've seen about that one is about 2 packets for "normal" gravity, i.e. 1050ish.
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Sep 7, 2021 01:33
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I usually use 1 packet of so4 for a 'regular' beer and usually it take 48ish hours to start kicking like a mofo.
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Sep 7, 2021 01:48
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calandryll posted:What was your pitch rate? Everything I've seen about that one is about 2 packets for "normal" gravity, i.e. 1050ish. I put 1 packet in ~2.75 gal wort (1.046 OG), so I'm about there. I might be wrong about the s-04, that was a while ago so it may have started slower. The saisons may have started quicker since they were fermented warmer. But like the last one I made (mangrove jack yeast) was pretty much finished with active fermentation by 36 hours.
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Sep 7, 2021 03:33
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Eeyo posted:I put 1 packet in ~2.75 gal wort (1.046 OG), so I'm about there. Philly sour is not a traditional yeast and I believe it works slower than Saccharomyces strains. I believe it also appears different while fermenting, but I haven’t used it myself. LAB works better for me, but you’ll have to let us know how it tastes.
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Sep 7, 2021 03:43
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Eeyo posted:I put 1 packet in ~2.75 gal wort (1.046 OG), so I'm about there. Lallemand has a pretty good video on Philly sour (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERrI0ktxRp0). I'm curious about the Philly sour because last time I did a LAB sour, I got a bit of butyric acid, i.e. baby vomit, which I'm apparently quite sensitive to since no one else noticed it. But here are my notes from that video: code:
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Sep 7, 2021 11:06
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Got some orchard fresh unpasteurized cider today. Had a packet of Nottingham yeast and pitched the whole packet in a 1 gallon batch of cider. Now I’m afraid that’s way to much and not sure what to do besides prepare an airlock and hope for the best… EDIT: Well poo poo. I didnt look closely at the label and in my excitement didnt notice that the cider I bought fresh from the orchard contained .01% sodium benzoate. I'm hoping my overpitching of yeast can overcome that now. Anyone in the twin cities MN area know of a good cider source with no preservatives? BaseballPCHiker fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 22:46
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I was an avid brewer (brewed something like 4/5 weekends) ~8 years ago and though I had to give up the hobby back then I've just brewed my first batch on a brand new setup and despite everything going seemingly smoothly something happened which never happened to me prior - I missed my target gravity by a considerable margin. Trying to do a post-mortem of the brewday and I'd appreciate any thoughts. Since this might be a longish post I'll bold anything that I think could have been to blame. First off, other than myself, literally everything in my brew setup has changed *including* the LHBS. In terms of what could possibly matter from an OG standpoint, I used to brew with a friend using a rectangular cooler as a mash tun (batch sparging) and a large pot on an outdoor propane burner. Today I brewed with my wife on a Mash & Boil all in one kettle. I did not have a homebrew nor did I have beer of any kind on hand at the time. <- Probably the #1 error right here The water at my house is rather hard so I opted to do what I did in my old brew setup and used an RO filter for aquarium water to get the ppm count low (Amazon reviews claims it's pushing the ppm down to near 0) - and then used Brewfather to suggest water conditioning additions. I used to add pH stabilizer but opted not to get any this time around since it seemed unnecessary if I was taking control of my water this closely. Since it was my first time using the electric kettle I decided to follow the suggestion in the Mash & Boil instruction manual rather than relying on my possibly rusty 8 year old knowledge although I did tweak some things here and there that seemed really wrong. According to the manual I was supposed to prepare 3.3 gallons of strike water at 162f. That volume seemed absurdly low so I upped it to 3.5 (a decision I stand by since I ended up .5 gallons short pre-boil) and kept the strike temp at 162f. My wife worked the grain bag while I churned the mash paddle. It was her first time ever helping out on a brew day so it was a bit slow going and a few spoonfuls of grain missed the mash pipe entirely, but nothing that seemed like it would have an adverse effect on the mash efficiency, I tried to be as thorough as I could with the paddle and it didn't seem like there were any dough balls left when I was done. When the dough in was finished the temperature had settled at 154f, which is a bit higher than I had anticipated but still seems like within normal mashing range. I set the kettle to hold at 150 and turned on my recirculating pump. I noticed that the kettle temp would drop to 145f before the element would kick back on and then would stop again at 151f. All of this was expected from all I had read prior (seems to be the normal hysteresis range for these kettles), so no alarm bells were going off. I adjusted the tubing coming off the pump every so often to ensure that all sections of the mash pipe were having water run through. At 40 minutes into the 60 minute mash I churned the whole mash pipe with the paddle again in the hopes of moving the grain at the bottom of the pipe upwards and vice versa. Nothing adverse seemed to happen there but I'm just being thorough in describing all the steps taken. I had been warned in videos that since the Mash & Boil does not have a drain pipe in the mash pipe that you need to turn the flow rate from recirc pumps *very* low so that water does not accumulate at the top of the mash pipe and starve the pump from below. I did so but also noticed that water wasn't exactly accumulating even if the flow rate was high - the grainbed was draining very quickly, almost as if the crush was too coarse. Once 60 minutes had elapsed I lifted the mash pipe up and drained it for 10 minutes prior to running 2.5gal of sparge water through. Due to an error on my part the sparge water was at 160f instead of 168f. Again, the sparge water was applied to every edge of the mash pipe and seemed to drain through very quickly. I let the pipe drain fully for another 10 minutes and then moved onto the boil. For all its conveniences, the electric kettle doesn't really present a good time to take a pre-boil OG measurement, however I immediately noticed that the wort was not as sweet as I would have anticipated so I took a sample shortly after moving the mash pipe away but by that time the wort was nearing 200f and finding an accurate conversion at that temperature was impossible (reading was 1.020 and the only conversion calculator I would find said to expect a 1.057 which sadly was nowhere near where it ended up). I kept going through the motions with a sense of dread that something had gone horribly wrong. I tried to dial back the bittering hops to compensate but without an accurate reading I did not withhold enough. Once cooled I took an accurate post-boil reading which landed on 1.046 which was well short of the expected 1.059. I always used to meet or beat my target gravity back in the day so this came as a pretty big blow. Especially since all of the fancy new equipment I had purchased or cobbled together performed admirably (glycol chiller built from a used A/C unit, plate chiller & Grainfather conical). I've gone over the brewday over and over in my head and I can't pinpoint anything that I did that was so wrong that it could account for such a large discrepancy... I know not everything went perfectly but it's not like my mashes 8 years ago always went down without a hitch and yet I always had amazing results back then, and honestly for all the technically demanding aspects of mashing it seems like a process that is very difficult to screw up so badly. From my own introspection all I have been able to come up with is that either the water chemistry was very very bad wrong or that the LHBS has their mill setup wrong (or some dickhead hosed with it despite the signs saying not to) and the grind was simply way too coarse as evidenced by how freely the wort was draining + a much smaller amount of "flour" than I was used to seeing from my old LHBS... The grist was fairly typical but just in case anyone needs to know fore their analysis: 8# Maris Otter 2# Munich 8oz Carapils 8oz Biscuit (was supposed to be Brown malt but the LHBS was all out) 2oz Roasted Barley
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Sep 13, 2021 05:53
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Super Rad posted:From my own introspection all I have been able to come up with is that either the water chemistry was very very bad wrong or that the LHBS has their mill setup wrong (or some dickhead hosed with it despite the signs saying not to) and the grind was simply way too coarse as evidenced by how freely the wort was draining + a much smaller amount of "flour" than I was used to seeing from my old LHBS... Everything else in your process seems fine. These would be the first two places I'd check as well. I use iodine to check conversion of the mash and a pH adjustment, but it's also good to check your crush size. They may have their dials set large, or they were large on the day you ground and that would lower efficiency a fair amount. The recipe seems about right for your expected OG, so with some adjustments you should be hitting nice and close.
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Sep 13, 2021 06:10
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Jhet posted:Everything else in your process seems fine. These would be the first two places I'd check as well. I use iodine to check conversion of the mash and a pH adjustment, but it's also good to check your crush size. They may have their dials set large, or they were large on the day you ground and that would lower efficiency a fair amount. The recipe seems about right for your expected OG, so with some adjustments you should be hitting nice and close. Thanks, I'll give the LHBS a call tomorrow and see if they know of any issues or if I was supposed to do something I wasn't aware of like run the grain through the mill twice, etc. I decided to plug in Brewfather's suggested water additions into a different water calculator and interestingly enough the PPMs between the two matched almost identically EXCEPT for HCO3 which was roughly 33% higher in Brewfather than in the brewersfriend calculator. I know HCO3 is important for alkalinity and my grainbill did have some amount of darker grains... should I just pick up some 5.2 stabilizer just to be on the safe side? Will the stabilizer even do anything when I'm starting from RO water and weighing out all the additions?
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Sep 13, 2021 06:25
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Super Rad posted:Thanks, I'll give the LHBS a call tomorrow and see if they know of any issues or if I was supposed to do something I wasn't aware of like run the grain through the mill twice, etc. I decided to plug in Brewfather's suggested water additions into a different water calculator and interestingly enough the PPMs between the two matched almost identically EXCEPT for HCO3 which was roughly 33% higher in Brewfather than in the brewersfriend calculator. I know HCO3 is important for alkalinity and my grainbill did have some amount of darker grains... should I just pick up some 5.2 stabilizer just to be on the safe side? Will the stabilizer even do anything when I'm starting from RO water and weighing out all the additions? Don't bother with 5.2 stabilizer, it's a worthless product. If you're starting with RO and adding reasonable additions, your water chemistry is probably fine. My money is on the crush - there might be a way to fix the crush from your LHBS, but a pretty easy fix is a cheap 2-roller mill like the Cereal Killer/Barley Crusher, combined with a drill and a set of feeler gauges to set the gap exactly where you want it.
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Sep 13, 2021 06:40
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Your temps seem fine. I would look towards water chemistry, grind and base malt selection. For example, Pilsner malt can vary between a potential SG of 1.035 and 1.039 in calculators, and I believe age affects this further.
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Sep 13, 2021 07:41
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I started a cyser and a traditional mead yesterday and I had a question about the yeast, I was sold an all-purpose red wine yeast by the LHBS which he said me would be fine for both of these, the pack was 5g and said it would do 25l. As I made a demijohn of each I put in 1g of yeast into each, was this correct? Mathematically obviously it is but it doesn't seem like a lot and the recipes call for 3-5g each. Should I split what I have and dump it in?
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Sep 13, 2021 08:53
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Nice piece of fish posted:So, my kölsch hit my target og and fg pretty spot on, looked nice and clear so I'm excited to try that after conditioning. Never had it so that'll be cool. So my kölsch didn't last long, it was so good it basically evaporated due to beer parasites. Overly Strong Cyser is a year old now and yum. It turned out amazing, but I'm betting I can improve it by doing a bochet and a cinnamon stick for caramel cinnamon cyser instead. Cloudberry mead, a year on and it's meh. Might be decent sweet, but no bueno dry. I've managed to get a lot more nagoonberries this year so I'm making a gallon of wild raspberry honey and goonberry mead, higher intervention technique for degassing and new equipment so here's hoping. I'm gonna try my hand at the white house Honey Ale this weekend maybe. And I have a super weird project brewing right now in the final chance ferment in my conical mini fermenter:  Oh yeah and I bought a new, more understated beer stein: 
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Sep 13, 2021 09:21
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If I had anything Cider related end up at 20,5% I would try to freeze distill it 
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Sep 13, 2021 13:14
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thotsky posted:If I had anything Cider related end up at 20,5% I would try to freeze distill it Pretty cool idea but is that smart with a cyser? I honestly don't know. It turned out tasty as hell but not very complex, brough a bottle to a party and we got hosed. up. It was scary how little you felt the alcohol.
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Sep 13, 2021 14:09
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cakesmith handyman posted:I started a cyser and a traditional mead yesterday and I had a question about the yeast, I was sold an all-purpose red wine yeast by the LHBS which he said me would be fine for both of these, the pack was 5g and said it would do 25l. As I made a demijohn of each I put in 1g of yeast into each, was this correct? Mathematically obviously it is but it doesn't seem like a lot and the recipes call for 3-5g each. Should I split what I have and dump it in? Yeah, you can split it to 1g no problem. Going a little over won’t bother anything and make fermentation take off nicely. It’s not too much where you’d run into issues. Yeast doesn’t come in smaller sachets so most recipes will have you use half a bad so everyone doesn’t need a gram scale.
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Sep 13, 2021 14:59
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 Just cracked open a SMASH that I brewed 3 weeks ago, only 1 week in the bottle to give it a taste test. This is the first batch I've made with my refrigerator/inkbird setup that I've gotten to taste. HOLY poo poo! Seriously the best beer I've ever made. Out of all the small incremental upgrades Ive made over the years, full volume boils/bigger kettle, wort chillers, yest starters, etc, fermentation temperature control has made the biggest difference! I wish I would've done this years ago and I'm kicking myself for waiting so long. Everyone who wants to do this as a hobby, go buy a mini fridge that fits your fermenter and spend $35 on the inkbird and then sit back and enjoy.
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Sep 13, 2021 17:38
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It's that time of year again, when I take irregular pears that I've collected from my pear tree and try to turn them into pear wine. Except I very much neglected to prune the tree last winter, so it didn't give nearly as many as usual. So I'm working with a pretty small batch this year and have taken forever to get around to it because honestly, I'm not expecting much. Last night I made the must, and unfortunately I used too much water by accident, because I ended up getting a pretty drat low starting gravity, at least compared to usual: 1.037. So if I'm converting correctly, that's setting me up for maybe like 5% ABV at the absolute most. Not exactly what I'm looking for in wine. (The must simply consists of pears, sugar, and water; I also threw in a few raisins because I figured it could use some help.) I'm sure there are plenty of ways to "correct" the must to bring the ABV back up, but I'm also very open to experimentation. So my main question is, what happens if I just do nothing? Will it turn into anything useful at all? Or is that really too low for proper fermentation and it'll just become moldy fruit water or something? Am I accidentally making hard seltzer? (That last one is not a serious question) Alternatively, if that's not going to produce anything of value at all... What's the easiest way to fix it? I'm really aiming for low effort here -- but in my mind, having to dump the whole thing is a bunch of wasted effort, too. So I don't quite want to give up on it. (To be clear, I already pitched the yeast. Initial gravity reading was done beforehand.) Sir Lemming fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 13, 2021 19:01
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Fortify it with boiled sugar water? Or something else with flavour if you want. E: like if you want, add a suitable amount of red wine must of some type, red wine and pears are a famous french thing. Basically a pyment sans honey. Pearment? Nice piece of fish fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 13, 2021 19:21
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Sir Lemming posted:PEARS You can add table sugar to make it stronger. Adding other fruit will take quite a bit to get You could also just ferment and bottle fizzy as you've got a peary at that OG (hard cider but pears instead). I wouldn't add too much sugar though and maybe just aim for 8-9%. More than that and it starts to thin out on flavor and pears can be subtle. Or you could just straight up add some honey. Warm it in the bottle and add a pound or two to get there (honey is about 1.035 sg depending). Very much plenty of sugar to have a perfectly healthy fermentation otherwise, but it would be a weak wine.
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Sep 13, 2021 19:43
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That's a perry. Pears give quite the impression of sweetness so I think you would be alright at that gravity. Carbonate it!
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Sep 13, 2021 19:49
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Ok, that sounds a lot more promising than I expected. I'll have to decide if I want to try to sweeten it or just leave it. I do have invert sugar already made in a jar, or I could buy honey. Not sure how I would carbonate it, though. But cider is definitely an appealing idea here.
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Sep 13, 2021 22:13
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Just bottle condition?
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Sep 13, 2021 22:20
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Sir Lemming posted:Ok, that sounds a lot more promising than I expected. I'll have to decide if I want to try to sweeten it or just leave it. I do have invert sugar already made in a jar, or I could buy honey. Not sure how I would carbonate it, though. But cider is definitely an appealing idea here. Pop it in some beer bottles and caps and add a little table sugar when it’s done. It’ll carbonate itself. There are calculators that will tell you how much sugar you’ll need. I wouldn’t expect to keep still 5% for very long, it’s likely to pick up off flavors faster. We’re still talking a year or more, but some people like to keep vintages. Fortified it’ll keep longer when still.
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Sep 13, 2021 22:21
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Still thinking through that conical fermenter purchase (lol). After some other purchases this summer I'm back to thinking about it again. The 7.5 gal Brew Bucket still looks pretty good to me just for being cheap as hell but it is an awful lot of screw fittings to keep clean and it doesn't do pressurized anything. But it's $140. The Spike CF10 or CF15 really do look nice and 15 gal would be some big batches although it puts me in the position of having to buy bigger kettles/etc down the road if I want to fully utilize it. CF10 would probably more than meet my needs but for an extra $100 on a premium fermenter... kinda might as well (I don't think the extra headspace matters in practice). With the conical fermenter, it looks like if you want to do spunding they really want you to buy the 3-port lid - one port for the spunding valve (which is blichmann not Spike, Spike doesn't have a spunding valve yet), one for the safety valve (they don't explicitly say it but it sounds like they really would prefer you had a safety so if the spunding valve clogs it doesn't blow up), and one for spare or something else, plus the big central port (for dry hopping/etc). It sounds like I'd want the closed pressure transfer kit as well, and possibly the carb stone bundle for non-spunding brews. And the safety valve is a separate item. And the TC-100 bundle for temp control. Are there any other gadgets I'd need/want for a nice pressurized-brew/pressurized-transfer setup? Thinking I may just grab the 7.5g brew bucket and get rolling but the CF10 or CF15 do look really really nice as a premium setup to aspire to. The other beer that I can't find anymore (that I was reminded of at the store tonight, which reminded me to finish putting together parts) was Magic Hat Electric Peel IPA, yeah it's nothing particularly special in terms of beeradvocate ratings but anyone have a similar recipe for a malty american IPA with a strong citrus zest but somewhat sour/dry and not a ton of sweetness or super overpowering hops? It may help to think of it more as a pale ale rather than an IPA, it's not the super overpowering hops-first IPA styles that are popular at the moment... Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 04:48
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It's not rated for it, but I know people who do closed transfers with the brew bucket.
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Sep 14, 2021 06:59
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thotsky posted:It's not rated for it, but I know people who do closed transfers with the brew bucket. Yeah, it has to a) seal enough that it can build up 2-5 psi without leaking too much and b) not have any components fail violently under 2-5 psi. If it leaks a little, it's fine, other than the wasted CO2. I know people who pressure transfer in plastic carboys. Just have to keep the pressure low enough that the stopper won't blow off.
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Sep 14, 2021 15:09
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I've been doing a closed transfer just by connecting the gas in of my purged keg (at atmospheric pressure) to the blowoff tube of my bucket, then a line from the bottom valve to the beer out of the keg. After the keg is at atmospheric pressure of course. That's probably slower, but I do 2.5 gal batches so it's no big deal. But it is possible to do a closed transfer without pressurizing the fermentation vessel if it's got a valve on the bottom. I made up a couple quick connects with appropriately sized barb fittings. There's probably some oxygen ingress but I feel like it does pretty well given how simple the setup is.
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Sep 15, 2021 02:51
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Eeyo posted:I've been doing a closed transfer just by connecting the gas in of my purged keg (at atmospheric pressure) to the blowoff tube of my bucket, then a line from the bottom valve to the beer out of the keg. After the keg is at atmospheric pressure of course. That's probably slower, but I do 2.5 gal batches so it's no big deal. But it is possible to do a closed transfer without pressurizing the fermentation vessel if it's got a valve on the bottom. I made up a couple quick connects with appropriately sized barb fittings. I do this halfway, I fill a keg with StarSan, pressure transfer it to a different keg with a liquid/liquid jumper, so that the keg I'm putting the beer in is full of CO2. Then I take a tube connected to a liquid QD and hook it up to vent the CO2 (and flush the tube). I hook up the end of the tube to the spigot, take off the blowoff tube, open the valve, and open the PRV on the keg. I figure there's slight positive pressure in the keg that should help keep out most O2, although it doesn't do anything for O2 getting into the fermenter.
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Sep 15, 2021 03:09
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 20:32 |
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Inkbirds on sale right now for anyone who was thinking of picking one up - https://www.homebrewfinds.com/2015/12/hands-on-review-inkbird-itc-308-dual-stage-temperature-controller.html
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Sep 15, 2021 17:24
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