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I used my palm router to round an edge for the first time using a neat 1/2" radius roundover bit, which was ever so slightly bigger than the acrylic built-in jig platform thing would allow. To overcome this I quickly made a bigger one out of quarter inch ply. The result I got with my first ever attempt (after testing it on something to make sure it was lined up right) started off having burn marks, and it was just not clean at the start. By the end it was good though and I felt like I just performed magic with that poo poo. Power tools are loving rad
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Sep 7, 2021 08:15
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Harvey Baldman posted:I agree with everything you've said, but my boss is cheap and would likely do nothing to remedy the situation if it costs that much, so the DIY solution I'm pitching is meant to bridge the gaps and at least keep my coworkers from being exposed to too much. Look up a copy of the ACGIH Industrial Ventilation handbook. In a nut shell you can draw air 1.5 duct diameters from the entrance point of the duct. The sloping on the sides will help draw air in along that flow vector but if your parts have any height to them you will get zero dust collection action. I recently evaluated a downdraft setup for a welding operation and found it to be inadequate for parts that were not directly on the table. The work envelope was really small. Is what you're sanding harmful, or does it contain materials that OSHA will dislike? If it does then you need to call your State Air Ventilation OSHA dude and ask for a consult. In my state it's free, there's no penalty, and they can help point you in the right direction. If it's not on the bad list then things get funky. Indoor dust is 5 mg / m3, which is a shitload of indoor air contaminants. But you need to know what exactly it is, so dig out the SDS sheets for your material and see if it's on the list. If it is on the list then your employer needs to be in compliance.
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Sep 7, 2021 13:15
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Yooper posted:Look up a copy of the ACGIH Industrial Ventilation handbook. In a nut shell you can draw air 1.5 duct diameters from the entrance point of the duct. The sloping on the sides will help draw air in along that flow vector but if your parts have any height to them you will get zero dust collection action. I recently evaluated a downdraft setup for a welding operation and found it to be inadequate for parts that were not directly on the table. The work envelope was really small. Do this. Resin dust is vile stuff.
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Sep 7, 2021 14:24
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I'm moving into an old house that needs window screens and I'd like to tackle this project. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhK0QwzCn0Q Maybe down the line build I'll do a workbench and some Adirondack chairs or something. I figure I can make a lot of cuts with a miter box and hand saw but I don't really have a way of ripping lumber down to width. Is a table saw my best option? Which one should I get?
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Sep 7, 2021 16:37
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:I'm moving into an old house that needs window screens and I'd like to tackle this project. I also made my own screens and storms for my 120 year old house. The first ones I made used the pocket screws but as those have weathered and needed replacement, I've found that bridle joints are stronger and longer lasting. I also discovered that I swap out screens and storms a weekend too late and end up on a ladder in freezing wind and freezing rain. So I came up with an alternate way to attach the screens that I can do from inside. And yeah, table saw or bandsaw.
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Sep 7, 2021 16:50
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:I figure I can make a lot of cuts with a miter box and hand saw but I don't really have a way of ripping lumber down to width. Is a table saw my best option? Which one should I get? Depends, do you have room for a cabinet saw? Do you have plans to own a planer? Do you have a permanent shop space or are you having to break down and set up every time? Are you planning on primarily working with solid wood or with sheet goods? Your answers to all of these questions can affect the answer as to what would probably be best for your situation between: Table saw Bandsaw Track saw (with a long rail)
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Sep 7, 2021 17:42
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Stultus Maximus posted:I also made my own screens and storms for my 120 year old house. The first ones I made used the pocket screws but as those have weathered and needed replacement, I've found that bridle joints are stronger and longer lasting. I also discovered that I swap out screens and storms a weekend too late and end up on a ladder in freezing wind and freezing rain. So I came up with an alternate way to attach the screens that I can do from inside. Good tips thanks. I might try the pocket screws to start so I don't abandon this project out of frustration. I'll try bridle joints for storm windows if this works out. It looks like a table saw would be good for those? GEMorris posted:Depends, do you have room for a cabinet saw? Do you have plans to own a planer? Do you have a permanent shop space or are you having to break down and set up every time? Are you planning on primarily working with solid wood or with sheet goods? I have a one-car garage and no plans to get buck wild with a wood shop. Solid wood I guess? Just looking for something that will work for this project and not break the bank or maim me.
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Sep 7, 2021 18:07
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:I have a one-car garage and no plans to get buck wild with a wood shop. Solid wood I guess? Just looking for something that will work for this project and not break the bank or maim me. Well, the "not maim" part is never guaranteed. No spinning bit or blade is ever truly safe, but small table saws are statistically in the less safe category. A 14" bandsaw (or smaller if you can find an old INCA) will do a nice safe job of ripping, but wont leave you with a finish-ready edge. You'll need a planer (electric or hand) to clean up your cut edges. A track saw *can* do long rips with the right track and table setup, but once you get all the table and tracks and accessories you're in reasonably good table saw $ but have the advantage of the gear being very stowable. Its not a terrific setup for lots of thin rips however, this is more the direction for working with sheet goods or solid wood "panels". A table saw is, well, not the safest tool as mentioned. A SawStop is def significantly safer, bit doesnt solve every risk, and is primo $. There is no clear "winner" which is why this discussion tends to go in circles. Personally I'm a Bandsaw+Planer+Track Saw person and won't have a table saw due to what I feel is an unacceptable level of risk for a hobby pursuit. (Fwiw I have worked on table saws quite a bit and used to be a shop attendant at a design school)
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Sep 7, 2021 19:58
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:They fit comfortably in the grand piano/slightly leaky yacht genre of used goods that are theoretically valuable, except that they're such a pain to move and store the owner will probably be pathetically grateful if you offer to take it away for free
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Sep 7, 2021 20:36
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Owning a piano may have been an aspirational thing/class-signifier back in the day, but those days are firmly in the past. Today they share a spot with physical encyclopedias on the 'refuse outright'-list for reclamation/charity places. If you have one that's actually valuable you wouldn't be trying to pawn it off to them for a free removal, as the cost of that often far exceeds their value. There might be some value in the keys, for the ivory or ebony, or if there's actual mahogany or rare wood used for the shell, but that's a big if, as these piano's were mass-produced and valuable materials rarely feature in that.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:02
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Good tips thanks. I might try the pocket screws to start so I don't abandon this project out of frustration. I'll try bridle joints for storm windows if this works out. It looks like a table saw would be good for those? I use a bandsaw, chisel, and tenon saw. Bandsaw to cut the mortise and the cheeks, chisel for the mortise waste, tenon saw to remove the cheeks. Takes me less than an hour from measurements to glue. e: I use my table saw to rip, but if I could only have one I'd take the bandsaw for this.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:02
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:I'm moving into an old house that needs window screens and I'd like to tackle this project. I would not buy any large shop tools in order to produce a handful of window frames, a workbench, and some Adirondack chairs. If you were planning on making hundreds or thousands of those frames, a table saw would be bar none the best way to get the job done. It's also a huge piece of equipment that costs many times what just buying everything you listed would run and likes to injure people who don't know what they're doing. I'd recommend finding a makerspace or borrowing someone's shop to clear your immediate projects, get some time on the tools with someone who can show you how to use them so you don't have to ask the Internet what does what, and figure out what you actually like doing (and if it's really worth buying your own vs. just asking someone to run off a board on theirs every other year or so and directing the space and money to better causes). By the time you're ready to buy your own tools you'll know what you need and what exactly it does. if you're going to get a table saw, get a Sawstop with all the bells and whistles. It'll cost $5k but it'll be the Best Saw for nonspecific residential-grade whatevers, and the hot dog trick will go over huge at parties. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 21:21
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I want a bandsaw very very much. Between my circular saw, chop saw, and hand tools I feel I can accomplish most things a table saw can, and anything I can't I just adjust my plans or expectations. If I get into production work I might change my tune but for now the relative safety of a bandsaw is the direction I'd definitely go for a first major power tool. Then a thickness planer.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:26
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:I would not buy any large shop tools in order to produce a handful of window frames, a workbench, and some Adirondack chairs. Ordering antique style screens and storms for an old house will run well over $150 per window. Just the windows alone will pay for the cost of a decent bandsaw.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:37
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Quote is not edit
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Sep 7, 2021 21:37
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unless dude really likes Tim Burton's whole aesthetic he's probably not gonna love the kind of frames a novice with little to no experience can do on a three-figure bandsaw like, for that matter he could get a really really nice chisel and a mallet and do it all for less than the price of one window frame
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Sep 7, 2021 21:39
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:unless dude really likes Tim Burton's whole aesthetic he's probably not gonna love the kind of frames an amateur can do on a three-figure bandsaw If he's got a house that old, he'll have to learn to love Tim Burton aesthetics.
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Sep 7, 2021 21:40
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lol fair
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Sep 7, 2021 21:40
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Maybe for this project I'll pay the lumber yard the cost per cut to rip my boards.A Wizard of Goatse posted:I would not buy any large shop tools in order to produce a handful of window frames, a workbench, and some Adirondack chairs. I live in Silicon Valley and any search I do for "maker spaces" is not what you're describing lol
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Sep 7, 2021 22:21
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Maybe for this project I'll pay the lumber yard the cost per cut to rip my boards. ?? https://www.makernexus.com https://www.acemakerspace.org/workshop/ lmao $70 a month for unemployed people https://www.meetup.com/MakersSJ/ https://www.chimeraarts.org/about this one's an hour north of SF but looks fuckin rad A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 22:35
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Oh thanks. I think I searched Google maps or Yelp and all the top results were places for hackathons and 3D printing
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Sep 7, 2021 22:49
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I have no idea how makerspaces work in reality, but I love the idea of them as a place to try out different things instead of having to buy it first. I love bandsaws, they're great and pretty safe and will do most of what you want to do. I like tablesaws slightly less but they're still great at alot of things. They're inherently less safe, but they'll also basically what you want to do and they can certainly be used safely. Tablesaws tend to be much more cost effective. You can get a perfectly fine contractor tablesaw from lowesdepot for $300 but bandsaws only really starting turning into useable tools around the $600-700 mark new. You could definitely build bridle jointed windows with a handsaw, bandsaw or tablesaw, chisel, mallet, and hand plane. If you need a groove for the screen, a router with a fence can do that or the tablesaw.
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Sep 7, 2021 23:32
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I simply buy lumber that's as close to my desired width as possible, and then change my desired width to the width of the lumber.
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Sep 7, 2021 23:43
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Bloody posted:I simply buy lumber that's as close to my desired width as possible, and then change my desired width to the width of the lumber. Yeah, for the screens just getting 1x2 is a good bet if you can find enough straight ones.
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Sep 7, 2021 23:45
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Just Winging It posted:There might be some value in the keys, for the ivory or ebony, or if there's actual mahogany or rare wood used for the shell, but that's a big if, as these piano's were mass-produced and valuable materials rarely feature in that.
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Sep 8, 2021 00:45
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Well then, I knew ivory was extremely tightly regulated, but wrongly thought old stuff was exempt.
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Sep 8, 2021 00:54
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Just Winging It posted:Well then, I knew ivory was extremely tightly regulated, but wrongly thought old stuff was exempt. There was (may have been broken or shattered) an ivory statuette among my parents' things that had been my grandparents'. If it turns up, I'll be able to keep it but not sell it. If it does show up, I'll probably put in the will that it should be donated to an appropriate museum.
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Sep 8, 2021 03:16
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Arsenic Lupin posted:You can't legally sell the ivory any more. Scrimshanders used to use keyboard ivory to do art on, but it's not resaleable. The laws are so strict that at least one historical harpsichord had to have its ivory keycaps removed in order to be shipped from one country to another. I think it has gotten very difficult, if not impossible, to sell ivory across international borders. E; fb, but it’s not illegal to sell, it’s just very complicated to sell. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Sep 8, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 03:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have no idea how makerspaces work in reality, but I love the idea of them as a place to try out different things instead of having to buy it first. The worst one i ever saw was a total nightmare combining that could go wrong with a volunteer-run organization with everything that could go wrong with a nerd-run organization, and still totally worth it. At the hobbyist or even home business level pooling resources so everyone in the neighborhood chips in a few bucks on a space and some decent equipment makes so much more sense than a table saw in every garage (I say as I set up a table saw in my garage), and access to experienced craftspeople working on their own projects and willing to talk shop is an incomparable learning resource for newbies, one that's otherwise real hard to come by unless woodworking is a family trade. imo anyone who doesn't have a full on product line going on should join one A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Sep 8, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 04:56
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The woodworking makerspacer near me is insanely expensive and has a list of rules longer than my arm that includes things like “no cutting any pine” and “no cutting anything harder than xx on the hardness scale.” Sure, they’re gonna have way more tools than you will be able to acquire as a novice, but for like 6 months membership you can buy yourself a SawStop and have a pretty drat good start. What makes way more sense is the local “tool library” which is fairly cheap and has a pretty wide range of stuff you can check out (but not tablesaws/jointers/etc) Elysium fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Sep 8, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 14:45
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I tried a shared woodworking space a couple times. Every time I went all the dust collectors were completely full. So I'd take the bag to the dumpster to empty it, but the dumpster was already overflowing. And one time, after I checked in, I went to ask someone for a hand only to find I was literally the only person in the building. Glad I didn't hurt myself! The place has since gone out of business.
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Sep 8, 2021 15:17
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Elysium posted:The woodworking makerspacer near me is insanely expensive and has a list of rules longer than my arm that includes things like “no cutting any pine” and “no cutting anything harder than xx on the hardness scale.” Sure, they’re gonna have way more tools than you will be able to acquire as a novice, but for like 6 months membership you can buy yourself a SawStop and have a pretty drat good start. condolences, we have one of those idiotic techbro $300/mo "incubators" out here too but also two other fully stocked shops in town for $25-$50/mo. The tool libraries are good poo poo too, depending on how/if they actually maintain the tools A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Sep 8, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 15:21
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The only makerspace near me has a severe techbro problem and is something 50 bucks/month. Ginormous list of rules too, my favorite of them forbidding using "too hard woods" on the machines, by which they don't mean exotics that chew up your tools and laugh at your pain, but loving oak or beech. Oh, and a noise curfew banning use of all woodworking machinery outside of 9am to 6pm on business days. And in depressingly common shared workspace fashion, every tool was beat up, dull, in dire need of maintenance, cleaning, or all of the above.
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Sep 8, 2021 16:19
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Hello- I am building a table top out of 1x6 pine select with 1 x 3 pine select as a trim piece. I’d like the table top to be thicker- so I was planning on either gluing two 1 x 6s together for an approx. thickness of 1.5” or use ¾” plywood as a base for the 1x6 top to obtain a thickness of approx. 1.45”. Three questions: first- does one option have clear advantages over the other for assembly? Second- what would be the best method to attach the 1 x 6s to the plywood if I went this route? Prior to attaching the 1x6s to the plywood I would clamp and glue all the 1 x 6s together. Third- I only have access to a planar for one day. Therefore, if I stack the 1 x 6s together for the 1.5” thickness, would be it be better to plane the wood before gluing them together, or plane the wood after gluing to the 1.5” thickness? Please see the two drawings and image of the final product.   
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Sep 8, 2021 17:23
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nbakyfan posted:Hello- You might consider what kind of 2x6 lumber you have available, which would eliminate your lamination issue completely. Of the two methods you've presented, the plywood base would seem be far more stable and forgiving. The plane's width limit is probably about 12", so if you need to plane them you could edge glue them in pairs first. That will leave you with only three seams on the table top to keep flat while you glue it all together. Caveat: I'm a hack hobbyist, the pros around here will probably have much better advice.
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Sep 8, 2021 17:41
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nbakyfan posted:Hello- You can find 2x6 or 2x8 KD pine at the big box stores, and that would be far preferable to stack laminating. Not a good venture for a new woodbutcher. Gluing lumber to plywood is especially not a good idea because wood moves, but plywood is not quite wood anymore. Joint the edges so you lose that slight roundover before glue-up unless you want those grooves as a feature, or really like using a jack or joiner plane. You'll need one anyway after final glue-up.
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Sep 8, 2021 18:16
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Any advice on how to set up this shop I found in another thread?Erulisse posted:
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Sep 8, 2021 18:19
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probably find another place to use that 6' fuckin lumberjack saw besides right against the windshield
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Sep 8, 2021 18:55
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:probably find another place to use that 6' fuckin lumberjack saw besides right against the windshield
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Sep 8, 2021 18:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This is not correct, at least in the US. It’s a bit complicated but yes, you can sell some ivory, if it’s old ivory. Definitely within state lines and also sometimes across state lines. Different bans on different species came into force at different times, but the first one was iirc in the 70’s sometime, and pretty much all ivory that was in the country before that ban is
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Sep 8, 2021 19:17
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